jazz Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 (edited) Why do I wash the model? Well it was covered in dust from the build due to fiing off the edges after removing from the spurs. Then there was the numerous holes to be filled for the handrails etc. Not to mention the soldering of the etched parts and finger marks. So I always use a very fine small scratch brush to very lightly go over the plastic parts to give a key for the paint. Then a good wash in very warm water with a little washing up liquid. Followed by a blow with a medium setting hair dryer and an hour in the airing cupboard. Only then is it ready for the two coats of primer. One I did earlier. Edited January 10, 2019 by jazz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 Just finished the brake van and got the varnish on. When dries it needs glazing and a good dose of weathering. Normally the precision varnish take a couple of days to dry. I have a couple of Parkside GWR 12T vans to build. I will tackle these alongside finishing the Royal Scott I think. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 Awaiting the Royal Scott to dry before priming I thought a couple of photos of the two wagons and brake just finished would fill the gap. The shunting has just started in Trenruth. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewe North Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Awaiting the Royal Scott to dry before priming I thought a couple of photos of the two wagons and brake just finished would fill the gap. The shunting has just started in Trenruth. scott m - 1.jpg Typo alert!!!!.....surely Royal Scot....Scott applies to porridge oats. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lissadell Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Typo alert!!!!.....surely Royal Scot....Scott applies to porridge oats. In modelling circles, sometimes, the Standard Class 7 locos are referred to as “Britts”! Ouch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 Typo alert!!!!.....surely Royal Scot....Scott applies to porridge oats. Of course it was a typo. Annoying spell check on this laptop is always altering what I actually type, in this instance I never checked before sending. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewe North Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Spell checkers......curse of mankind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 It's been a long haul with one thing and the other in the way. But at last it's finished. She has a lovely ABC gear box coupled to a Mason motor. It's a superb runner. Now I have a choice in locos to build, a Malcolm Mitchell 44xx, or aDJH brute. I will probably go for the 44xx first. In the meantime here's the Royal Scot ready to go. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Excellent work again Ken. I will certainly look forward to the 44xx build. Grahame Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Hello Ken, probaly been asked before, Your priming is superb so why dont you paint them as well? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 Hello Ken, probaly been asked before, Your priming is superb so why dont you paint them as well? I do paint also all my own models. Exception would be when I have a lined out model and I usually hand that to Conrad Cooper to do. All the other models that leave the WB go to the recipients favourite painter. He runs BR and they are almost all lined out anyway. As you gather my lining skills are not up to the standard I want on my models. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Ken, Quick question if I may. Do you paint your chassis satin or flat black?. I'm about to do my garratts and am in two minds which way to go. The superstuctures will be in satin, but these will eventually end up as pretty mucky loco's. Many Thanks, PM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 Hi Phil. I always use satin, chassis and superstructure. I then add varying muck but never too much of it. This is as far as I would go with the muck on my own models, (all over satin finish) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Thanks very much. Confirms my initial thoughts. Cheers, Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) OK, here we go with the Malcolm Mitchell 44XX. Now this is a very old kit (copyright 1989). Judging by the amount of tarnish is got to be close to age. Spent most of yesterday passing it all through the sonic cleaner, and boy was the a lot on etches to clean. Not helped by only possessing a fairly small cleaner and having to do them in two halves after splitting the sheets down. It paid off today though in easy soldering. The frames are quite thick and have a nicely detailed overlay for them. Here is the chassis so far. Quite conventional in it's design. I am glad I have a 45xx on my layout as the instructions will be a bit confusing on parts of it of the construction. Edited January 17, 2019 by jazz 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Looks like good start Ken, I will follow this with great interest. Grahame Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) Ken, Did you polish the brass as well as ultrasonically bath it? My u/s bath is pretty good at getting grot off, but doesn’t touch tarnish Atb Simon Edited January 17, 2019 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 Hi Simon. No, I do not find the need to polish the brass prior to soldering. I have to say it will not make the brass shiny, it I need that I do have to polish it up. I think think it may be down to the seaclean2 fluid and the MBO Z60 flux? I also degass and use the built in heater for best effects. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Get a watch/clock soap ammonia solution. That will clean an brighten the brass at the same time. I expect there are more modern equivalents, but been out the trade 30 years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Tarnished etches get sprayed with Bar Keepers Friend and left for fifteen minutes on the shower tray. Easy to rinse off. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Thank you all S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 Well, today has been a nightmare. Carried on with the chassis build, making it all as per kit is designed only to find when presenting the wheels sets they were almost touching the slide bars. so that entails a fair amount of desoldering. Followed by cutting the cylinder cross members in half including the slide bar support and moving them out sufficiently to allow the coupling rods to be attached. That was the worst lack of clearance I have ever encountered in a kit. Thankfully, it took all day, I have a chassis that will roll. I hope the body is better than that!. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 (edited) I note that Heather Kay had the same issue on the other channel. Heaven knows how anyone builds them to S7. What did you do for crankpins? I counterbored the rods on my 1366, and set the retaining nuts into the thickness of the rods, as there was no room at all, and I didn’t want to make the cylinders wider. Best Simon Edited January 19, 2019 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 Hi Simon. I also had to sink the crank pin bushes into the coupling rods. Fortunately there is plenty of room under the running plate to move the cylinders out. I guess S7b would be a problem. I have never built one so do not know what the problems would be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 I note that Heather Kay had the same issue on the other channel. Heaven knows how anyone builds them to S7. What did you do for crankpins? I counterbored the rods on my 1366, and set the retaining nuts into the thickness of the rods, as there was no room at all, and I didn’t want to make the cylinders wider. Best Simon I have also followed Heathers ( although she has backdated hers ) loco build and that is one reason I am following Kens project as well. It would appear to be an inherent problem on the chassis ? That said I am certain Ken will wave his magic wand on this build too ! G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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