jazz Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) Quite a fair bit of chopping and modifications to make the ABC power unit fit in a tight space. (That could not really be done until I started on the body.) It took all day to sort that out. so tomorrow should be more productive on the build. Edited January 6, 2021 by jazz 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 That's all I can do on the Loch loco untill I receive the package from Geoff with the tender and the rest of the castings etc. It's not been easy and I hope the tender will be better to build not-with-standing there will be a bit of scratch building on that. 10 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Wright Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Hi, this is a very quick ask for help. Have you built a Gwr 30xx or a LNER 04? I am sorry to bother you, I tried to use the seach feature on the forum but it is too clever for me. I am sure at some point I followed your post on building one. Great to see you building a Loch. The late Andy Copp was a mate of mine. It is nice to see a super build being done of this attractive Locomotive. Thanks, keep safe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, M Wright said: Hi, this is a very quick ask for help. Have you built a Gwr 30xx or a LNER 04? I am sorry to bother you, I tried to use the seach feature on the forum but it is too clever for me. I am sure at some point I followed your post on building one. Great to see you building a Loch. The late Andy Copp was a mate of mine. It is nice to see a super build being done of this attractive Locomotive. Thanks, keep safe. Hi. Thanks for the kind comment about the Loch. I cannot recall building a 30xx but done many 8 coupled GWR locos. I have built the LNER 04 (page127). I have another one the w/shop waiting to be built soon. Regards, Ken Edited January 8, 2021 by jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 Footnote to the above, I have actually built the GWR 30xx, (I had forgotten I had). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 Hi all. I've been a tad quiet of late. Also I have put the Loch loco to one side and will have another bash at it when I have finished my latest loco for myself. This is the 88D kits County Tank loco. One of the turned axle bushes were missing and expect it to arrive tomorrow. (Mike is very good at customer help.) The whole build is in photo graphs in it's stages of construction in the instruction sheets. A very nice touch. This is it so far. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Looking forward to this build Ken, nice to be doing something for yourself too ! G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 1 hour ago, bgman said: Looking forward to this build Ken, nice to be doing something for yourself too ! G Certainly is. I was wrong saying the whole build is in photos in the instructions, they stop short at about where I'm up to in the build. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Slow progress today. Mike sent the missing axle bush recieved today. Anyway onwards tomorrow. 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Very nice Ken, it's beginning to look the part already. Could I ask if the boiler sections are pre-rolled and how is the firebox front connected to the rear boiler section, is there a cast piece to fit between the two ? Also is it an all nickel silver etched kit ? Sorry to ask but I am always interested to see how various kit manufacturers approach these areas. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpgibbons Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Ken - I greatly enjoy your thread. As one of the most capable and prolific 7mm loco builders, it would be a particular service to those of us less gifted if you could comment on quality/instructions/ease of assembly etc for each kit you build. Perhaps you might even adopt Raymond Walley's grading system. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpgibbons Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 54 minutes ago, bgman said: Could I ask if the boiler sections are pre-rolled and how is the firebox front connected to the rear boiler section, is there a cast piece to fit between the two ? Also is it an all nickel silver etched kit ? Instructions can be downloaded here 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 May I ask an off point question? You have built a fair number of locos. How do YOU go about marking holes for handrail knobs on a boiler assuming none have been indicated with half etching or just etched thru? K Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 9 hours ago, bgman said: Very nice Ken, it's beginning to look the part already. Could I ask if the boiler sections are pre-rolled and how is the firebox front connected to the rear boiler section, is there a cast piece to fit between the two ? Also is it an all nickel silver etched kit ? Sorry to ask but I am always interested to see how various kit manufacturers approach these areas. G Hi. It's all nickel silver. None of the etches are pre-rolled or formed. The kit arrives in a flat box. There are many 3D printed parts which are very nice and do not need the normal cleaning up of cast metal parts. The firebox front is 3D printed and is not connected to the boiler. The boiler assembly can attached the a fold down lug with a nut and bolt. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) 11 hours ago, dpgibbons said: Ken - I greatly enjoy your thread. As one of the most capable and prolific 7mm loco builders, it would be a particular service to those of us less gifted if you could comment on quality/instructions/ease of assembly etc for each kit you build. Perhaps you might even adopt Raymond Walley's grading system. I will give that some thought but I do not particularly like knocking peoples kits. There is a wide variation in kit accuracy, and quality of castings etc. I have a struggle with some instructions as they may be clear to the designer but not always to the builder. I have no issues in giving kits my opinion by rating them as I see them. Edited January 20, 2021 by jazz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 8 hours ago, dpgibbons said: Instructions can be downloaded here Thank you for sharing those, they make an interesting read and I am impressed with the 3D printed parts especially the brake gear, no fear of shorting on the wheels. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) 8 hours ago, bluestag said: May I ask an off point question? You have built a fair number of locos. How do YOU go about marking holes for handrail knobs on a boiler assuming none have been indicated with half etching or just etched thru? K When I do come across a kit such as that, failing a line drawing in the instructions, a photo of the prototype is needed. Also I find the s/box door is the best indication to the height of the h/rail by using the hinges or door opening dart. The using the boiler bands and such to give a good indication as to their position along the boiler. I then use a ruler or callipers to give a horizontal line marked out by a light scribe or pencil line. I use a small drill bit (.75 mm or 1 mm) to make the pilot hole and then follow with the correct size for the h/rail knob. Edited January 20, 2021 by jazz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 2221 filling up at Paddington, 1931 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Nice I have a mogul, a prairie and a 1361 to build, and then I'll have another look. does look impressive in Miss P's photo, and the kit looks very attractive. Just don't think it is the kind of loco to be found at the end of even a major branch in North Wales... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 No, it certainly wouldn't have been. This modellers license though and it's doing a trial by the GWR and is doing turns to Trenruth. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 9 hours ago, jazz said: When I do come across a kit such as that, failing a line drawing in the instructions, a photo of the prototype is needed. Also I find the s/box door is the best indication to the height of the h/rail by using the hinges or door opening dart. The using the boiler bands and such to give a good indication as to their position along the boiler. I then use a ruler or callipers to give a horizontal line marked out by a light scribe or pencil line. I use a small drill bit (.75 mm or 1 mm) to make the pilot hole and then follow with the correct size for the h/rail knob. The kit gives the spacing down the boiler. It is a LNWR Coal Tank. Two of the knobs line up with the dome and safety valve, so getting that right should be doable. I guess my question is how to strike a level line for the knobs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 The most obvious method would be using the footplate and a pair of dividers, mine has sharp points that will make a light score mark front and rear and the a rule to going the two marks with a light score mark. Locos such as the coal tank the actual tank top can be used and then perhaps use a straight, narrow off cut from the etched sheet or similar. You would need the dividers to mark each side of the boiler to gain the exact same height for each side. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 (edited) Our Daughter, lives in Florida but is visiting Washington DC at the minute has purchased this bottle of much sought after wine. Read the label. Edited January 23, 2021 by jazz 1 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 (edited) A bit more on the county. The bunker was quite a struggle to get that right. I disassembled it three times in an effort to get it right. A shame really as the rest of the build was assembling OK with only minor tweaks here and there In the end it still had to have some filling in to do on the rear lower panel, that was 3mm too narrow for the sub assembly. All's squared off now though. Edited January 21, 2021 by jazz 8 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 On 21/01/2021 at 07:46, jazz said: Our Daughter, lives on Florida but is visiting Washington DC at the minute has purchased this bottle of much sought after wine. Read the label. If you think the last four years have not been painful for us yanks, you have not been paying attention! 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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