jazz Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 Oh I know what the US has gone through, our daughter and family live there. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 Well that's almost all the soldering done then is all the 3D printed parts for the body and chassis. I'm not too sure about the pony truck. I may make some changes to have it swinging and sprung instead of swinging inside the truck box which is not allowing any springing at all. 7 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 You'll need some rainstrips on the cab roof. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 58 minutes ago, Miss Prism said: You'll need some rainstrips on the cab roof. Thanks, I nearly for about them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 8 minutes ago, jazz said: Thanks, I nearly for about them. Just leave 'em off Ken and make the crew wear raincoats ! Joking apart it's one of the last things I tend to solder onto my locos so you're in good company. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 Aye, They would have been fitted on the final check when I think it's done. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post jazz Posted January 24, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 24, 2021 Hi. That's the body done (At least I think it is). The safety valve bonnet will sit down properly, it's the way I popped it on for the rushed photo. This is an interest kit to build, from some really good build designs to some leaving you scratching your head. One thing though if I do build another county I would definitely build it in a different way to make life a lot easier. It remains to be seen just how the chassis will work out when I fit the motor and have a run on the layout. Then complete the chassis build. 12 8 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 2 hours ago, jazz said: One thing though if I do build another county I would definitely build it in a different way to make life a lot easier. Looks the part Ken, it would be interesting to have your thoughts about building it differently. I suppose we would all do that in one way or another with what we build. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 2 hours ago, bgman said: Looks the part Ken, it would be interesting to have your thoughts about building it differently. I suppose we would all do that in one way or another with what we build. G Hi. When I say building it differently I am referring to the order of construction from the photographic instructions. Which are very useful but do not cover the entire build. The main differences I would do is adding bolts to the boiler formers to allow it be bolted to the fold down tab on the sub frame. (I did use a bolt on the tab and passed into the boiler but unable to add a nut). The smoke box former is a tad too small, so filing off the under cut etch (as normally recommended) I would use the assembly clamps to check it against the 3D s/box door first and it will sit OK in the s/box saddle. Then I would make up the boiler & s/box as normal and clean up the under cut off the rear boiler former or it will end up wider then the 3D firebox front. The fold down tab needed to be removed and soldered under the bridge it came off making sure the hole in it maintains the correct height. If you don't do that you will not get the firebox unit to fit between the boiler and cab front. The next alteration is the bunker. You have to be very careful wrapping the overlay around the 3D corners. Then I recommend making the cutaway in the two corners much larger to allow the 3D corners to be added when the assembly is completed. TI found the bunker the most difficult part of the whole build. The chassis went together quite well. I took another look at it today and found the drivers had absolutely no grip on the rails. This is because the rear pony wheels have no springing and hold all the wheels at the same level. Placing an obstruction on one rail lifted the drivers off the rail and the rear pony truck. I filed 1.3 mm off the tops of the pony truck slot so the pony wheels can float down and up and in doing so keeps the driver firmly on the rails. Also allows the beam compensation to operate correctly. So the front bogie truck rides well over any obstacles laid on the track and the drivers climb over leaving the other three drivers firmly on the rails. The rear pony wheels meekly follow with no problems. Others will more than likely have other ways to solve the problems I encountered. Footnote. The boiler clamps 88D sell are will worth purchasing for any build. How I have all these years without them, I don't know. I bought two, one for each end of a boiler or whatever. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Thank you for the comprehensive reply Ken, always useful to hear about the various "problems" if I am permitted to refer to them in such manner. It's a loco I would like to have but my stock is far to large currently. G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Grahame, I’m sorry to assert that you are incorrect. We all know rule 1, so I will dwell no further on it. Rule 2 is perhaps less frequently published but may be summarised by the following inequality. x >= x+1 or perhaps ”the number of locomotives required for any particular layout (existing or intended) is at least one more than the number actually possessed” I’m sure you”” agree that this makes sense, and hope it helps best Simon 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 That's it done. Hopefully the weather will be kind enough to get the painting under way. (Doing that in the garage is not pleasant in this weather) That's the Slater's SG29 as supplied by 88D for that kit. 11 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post jazz Posted January 27, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) Today sees the painting done. I have the number plates, transfers, glazing, coal, crew and a light weathering to tackle tomorrow. It took a fair bit longer to build than I thought it would. The chassis has turned out OK with just the modification to the trailing pony truck. I will add some weight in the tanks over the drivers and all be be fine. There will be no nose diving that can happen with 4-4-2 designs, even though this is 2-4-4 the rear truck carries no weight but the leading truck does and have compensation beams along with the drivers. The loco chassis has plate that the leading truck slides on whilst it supports the front end. Edited January 28, 2021 by jazz 12 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 2-4-4 or 4-4-2?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted January 28, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Deano747 said: 2-4-4 or 4-4-2?? Depends if it is coming or wenting... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 (edited) OK guys, I have done an edit to 4-4-2 Edited January 28, 2021 by jazz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 Certainly sounds like a well designed and engineered chassis, except for the slight alteration to the rear pony truck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 I go along with that Jon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 At last the Loch Class is ready for the clean up. A fair bit of adjustments and some scratch building to get to this stage. The etches were old and tarnished too. I found Sandy's build of this kit from 2012. That was very useful to see the problems and cures he did to get it into a nice looking model. So Thanks Sandy. 11 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 4, 2021 Author Share Posted February 4, 2021 Placing the Loch loco to one side awaiting priming I'm moving forwards with the Connoisseur 4F. This a very simple loco to build with excellent online instructions and photos of the build progressing. This is much better than the kits instruction booklet. Here is the tender which was a just over a couple of days in construction. 12 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Wright Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 Hi, great to see the Loch off to the paint shop. My kit for the GWR 30xx has arrived as have the wheels etc from Slaters. I would like to ask you for some advice. What would you do to this model's chassis and wheels to get it round 4 foot 6 inch radius curves. Looking at the kit (Gladiator) I do not think there is much scope for narrowing the chassis. Probably the axle bushes if I use them* can only get me 30-40 thou per axle more sideplay by turning the flange thickness down. Do you think a simple and visual solution might be to remove the flanges from a driving wheel set? Any thoughts much appreciated. *planned details for the chassis plus outline of the layout is in my post on this forum. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I’m sorry to be negative but building a 2-8-0 and hoping to get it round trainset curves is going to demand some serious compromises. It’s your call, of course, and it has to satisfy you and nobody else, but I think I’d be thinking twice about your curves. Don’t miss out the axle bushes, it’ll never run right. I built a Finney 47xx some 20 years back, with the intent of getting it across a Peco crossover, (nominally 6’ but actually a little tighter) which I did. It was challenging & I think going tighter will be very difficult. your tender will need a long drag link too. atb Simon 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 5, 2021 Author Share Posted February 5, 2021 (edited) I will go along with what Simon has said. Eight coupled locos on 4' 6" is definitely not a good idea. Neither is trying to narrow the chassis. When it travels along straight sections it would tend to wander side to side. I build my models for 6' radius for eight coupled and longer. Edited February 5, 2021 by jazz 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 5, 2021 Author Share Posted February 5, 2021 Switching back to the Loch Class, a bright sunny day so got the painting done. By the time I got ready for a photo it had changed to dull and raining. So the photos are a bit ropy, even worse for the second photo. 9 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 7, 2021 Author Share Posted February 7, 2021 The 4F loco is now underway. Basics of the chassis finished this morning and now starting the actual body. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now