jazz Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 5 minutes ago, Scorpio7uk said: Speeding along as usual Ken...great work....... You may want to see this if you haven't already...... Nick built the same kit and pushed out frames with working valve gear etc. with lots of improvements along the way..... Jeff Thanks for that Jeff. It looks a cracking build. I've tried working valve gear though have been tempted until I priced the kit to do that. Maybe one day I will get round to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 8 hours ago, Scorpio7uk said: Speeding along as usual Ken...great work....... You may want to see this if you haven't already...... Not to mention Peter Cross on WT and my own rebuilt A from the 88D kit you have also expertly completed. Quite a Rhymney revival. with this rescue of the same kit Nick built the same kit and pushed out frames with working valve gear etc. with lots of improvements along the way..... Jeff 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) On 02/05/2021 at 02:29, LaScala said: Thanks for that. I have seen the complete build of Nicks R class. Very impressive it is too. Edited May 4, 2021 by jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post jazz Posted May 4, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 4, 2021 That's the primer done, now we grind to a halt. Ordered the paint from Squires today expecting delivery tomorrow as usually happens only to find it's out of stock. So the waiting game starts and hopefully have it by the w/end. 16 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 Sadly there is still no sign of the paint I ordered. In the meantime it's on with another build. This time the Connoisseur (ex Majestic) J36. As usual with Jim's offering he has done work on the kit and it's going well. The only thing was the handbrake stanchion does not match up with the hole in the corner box. So a replacement lid was soon made. One has to be very careful in folding the corners, especially on the flares and coal rails. Here is the tender built. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 03060 Posted May 9, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) Very interested to see this build, Ken, as it's one that I fancy building myself at some point and keep looking at it every time that I see Jim's stand ....the only problem being that I probably will never have a use for it other than as a display model. Best wishes, Ian. Edited May 9, 2021 by 03060 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Softvark Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 I’m looking forward to this build too as I bought the same kit only last week. Lots of photos please, Ken! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 Hi guys, photos will be posted. Here is the chassis. Note I will not be using tender draw bar as the kit intended. I will show that later in the build. 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 11, 2021 Author Share Posted May 11, 2021 (edited) Quite a straight forward chassis. The difficult part was the folding up of the ash pan. Annealing is one way or as I did, score the fold lines. Edited May 11, 2021 by jazz 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted May 11, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 11, 2021 Looks like a great kit, a shame Jim does not offer them in 4mm. Your soldering is so tidy, whats the secret? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 Secrets of soldering, shhh don’t tell... hot iron, big enough for the job clean job (and iron and solder) good flux, quick in & out, minimal solder 2 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TinTin56 Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 (edited) I started in 7mm as a lockdown hobby last year and I've now built 3 locos and several wagons and vans. On my 3rd loco (a Judith Edge Hunslet), I sprung the middle axle with wire as Ken does on his builds and the pickup is great. On Jim's Connoisseur kits, like the J36, the centre axle is raised by about .25mm. The centre boss bearing hole in the coupling rod is offset by a similar amount so that they stay in a straight line (at least it was on J71 which I built rigid). If you spring the centre axle, what do you do with the coupling rods? Do you just leave them alone, because any droop in the middle won't be noticed, or do you somehow file the hole so that it is centred in the boss? Not seen this mentioned anywhere. I've got a J79 to build next and would like to spring it. Cliff Edited May 12, 2021 by TinTin56 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 12 hours ago, Blandford1969 said: Looks like a great kit, a shame Jim does not offer them in 4mm. Your soldering is so tidy, whats the secret? I agree with Simond on that one. A hot iron powerful enough for the job is essential. I use an Ersa with 5mm and 2.5mm tips set at 425 deg. I mostly use the 2.5mm and 5mm for really heavy soldering. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, TinTin56 said: I started in 7mm as a lockdown hobby last year and I've now built 3 locos and several wagons and vans. On my 3rd loco (a Judith Edge Hunslet), I sprung the middle axle with wire as Ken does on his builds and the pickup is great. On Jim's Connoisseur kits, like the J36, the centre axle is raised by about .25mm. The centre boss bearing hole in the coupling rod is offset by a similar amount so that they stay in a straight line (at least it was on J71 which I built rigid). If you spring the centre axle, what do you do with the coupling rods? Do you just leave them alone, because any droop in the middle won't be noticed, or do you somehow file the hole so that it is centred in the boss? Not seen this mentioned anywhere. I've got a J79 to build next and would like to spring it. Cliff Cliff. I did spring the centre axle as usual. But only minimum movement. 1mm upwards and a fraction downwards. The coupling rods untouched. I have not yet done running with motor as yet but runs sweetly with a get push along. Edited May 12, 2021 by jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 03060 Posted May 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, jazz said: I agree with Simond on that one. A hot iron powerful enough for the job is essential. I use an Ersa with 5mm and 2.5mm tips set at 425 deg. I mostly use the 2.5mm and 5mm for really heavy soldering. Do either of you use any particular product or method for keeping your tips in good order, please ? I use an Antex 15w iron for most of my 3mm kits (and one small 7mm loco kit built so far) but seem to have 'lost' the tips effectiveness recently. Even though I've now re-found my tin of tip cleaning 'stuff' I still haven't got it to improve much which is discouraging me from finishing several part built kits at the moment as it's just not fun. It may just be time for a new iron. Sorry for the slight veer off topic but I'd value your experiences. Regards, Ian. Edited May 12, 2021 by 03060 Extra info added. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 I use a temperature controlled iron and I religiously wipe the tip on the wet sponge when returning it to the rest. You absolutely don't need fancy irons, but they help. If you are using a non-controlled version, be prepared to clean the tip more frequently, as any solder will oxidise. I've not used tip cleaner, if it gets cruddy I will give the tip a vigourous session in one of these, and then re-tin it with cored solder, and then flick off any excess. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 5 hours ago, TinTin56 said: If you spring the centre axle, what do you do with the coupling rods? Do you just leave them alone, because any droop in the middle won't be noticed, or do you somehow file the hole so that it is centred in the boss? Not seen this mentioned anywhere. I've got a J79 to build next and would like to spring it. Here, Ken and I diverge. I tend to spring or equalise all my locos, as it helps pick-up, and it does improve smooth running. I always hinge coupling rods if there are more than two axles. Actually, I nearly always use Premier rods, which are available hinged or rigid. I feel they are a worthwhile upgrade to most kits.. I used to use Fourtrack hornblocks, but have more recently used the Slaters ones. Both are fine. Slaters also offer insulated hornblocks if you want to go for split axles too! There's a bit on my Duchess thread (link below) on horns and pickups, and some stuff on split axles on my Loco Loco thread, I'll not distract further from Ken's thread! atb Simon 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TinTin56 Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 Many thanks to you both. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 TinTin. Back to my Ersa soldering iron. It's a 50w model temperature controlled. I said I use it at 425 deg, I should have said 405 deg (that was a typo). Even with white metal I use that temperature except for small casting, then I drop it to about 380 deg and a quick touch with the iron works well for me. Ian, I am amazed you only us a 15w iron, how you mange with that beats me. Regards keeping the tips clean, I never use the wet sponge method. I the tip cleaner from Squires and the brass sponge method. As soon as the tipsters pick up the solder a dunk into the cleaner solves that and a wipe on the brass sponge keeps in clean for quite a few joints. My iron is in use all day with no problems. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 (edited) A short spell on the WB today see the footplate started. No problems with that so far. But getting the cab front fitted required very careful alignment as there are no half etches to help with alignment. Edited May 12, 2021 by jazz 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SvenL Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 This is a locomotive that I plan to build eventually. Together with the Gladiator K2/2.. So this build I am going to follow Would appreciate comments and if there are any pitfalls. Sven Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 13, 2021 Author Share Posted May 13, 2021 12 hours ago, SvenL said: This is a locomotive that I plan to build eventually. Together with the Gladiator K2/2.. So this build I am going to follow Would appreciate comments and if there are any pitfalls. Sven Sven, I've not had any 'pitfalls' with the build so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 13, 2021 Share Posted May 13, 2021 Cab fronts with no alignment help in the etches, this might be useful; Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 13, 2021 Author Share Posted May 13, 2021 Moving forwards, the body is coming along nicely. There is one thing to watch out for, the cab splasher front are unequal. So check that and make the large front the same as the smaller one, then you will have no problems. I will add a photo of the cab interior this evening. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 13, 2021 Author Share Posted May 13, 2021 Here is the cab interior. 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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