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Jazz 7mm Workbench


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5 minutes ago, Scorpio7uk said:

Speeding along as usual Ken...great work.......

 

You may want to see this if you haven't already......

 

Nick built the same kit and pushed out frames with working valve gear etc. with lots of improvements along the way.....

 

Jeff

 

Thanks for that Jeff.  It looks a cracking build. I've tried working valve gear though have been tempted until I priced the kit to do that.  Maybe one day I will get round to it.

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8 hours ago, Scorpio7uk said:

Speeding along as usual Ken...great work.......

 

You may want to see this if you haven't already......

Not to mention Peter Cross on WT and my own rebuilt A from the 88D kit you have also expertly completed.  Quite a Rhymney revival.   image.png.b7951ade1136f5997f17c42a965c53e9.pngimage.png.e744d733248be415c7cf81852b6eeed0.pngwith this rescue of the same kit

Nick built the same kit and pushed out frames with working valve gear etc. with lots of improvements along the way.....

 

Jeff

 

 

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On 02/05/2021 at 02:29, LaScala said:

 

Thanks for that. I have seen the complete build of Nicks R class. Very impressive it is too.

Edited by jazz
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Sadly there is still no sign of the paint I ordered.  In the meantime it's on with another build. This time the Connoisseur (ex Majestic) J36.   As usual with Jim's offering he has done work on the kit and it's going well.   The only thing was the handbrake stanchion does not match up with the hole in the corner box. So a replacement lid was soon made.

 

One has to be very careful in folding the corners, especially on the flares and coal rails.

 

Here is the tender built.

 

249107726_j36tender1-1.jpg.2ab6a36c353729c17a0adffb815003aa.jpg

 

1864167223_j36tender2-1.jpg.af9f580d5ec8e29454c5c158e6f6c25d.jpg

 

 

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Very interested to see this build, Ken, as it's one that I fancy building myself at some point and keep looking at it every time that I see Jim's stand ....the only problem being that I probably will never have a use for it other than as a display model. :unsure_mini:

 

Best wishes,

Ian.

Edited by 03060
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Hi guys, photos will be posted.:good: Here is the chassis.  Note I will not be using tender draw bar as the kit intended. I will show that later in the build.

 

834621305_j36tender3-1.jpg.7871f876772e810cae889b5fa3c19d8c.jpg 

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1374764317_j36loco2-1.jpg.6940be2f8101c45da1cf36cf40985653.jpgQuite a straight forward chassis.  The difficult part was the folding up of the ash pan.  Annealing is one way or as I did, score the fold lines.

 

1893957406_j36loco1-1.jpg.e9eb180f65613361c05a591e5999b059.jpg

 

 

 

 

j36 loco 3 - 1.jpg

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I started in 7mm as a lockdown hobby last year and I've now built 3 locos and several wagons and vans. On my 3rd loco (a Judith Edge Hunslet), I sprung the middle axle with wire as Ken does on his builds and the pickup is great.

On Jim's Connoisseur kits, like the J36, the centre axle is raised by about .25mm. The centre boss bearing hole in the coupling rod is offset by a similar amount so that they stay in a straight line (at least it was on J71 which I built rigid). If you spring the centre axle, what do you do with the coupling rods? Do you just leave them alone, because any droop in the middle won't be noticed, or do you somehow file the hole so that it is centred in the boss? Not seen this mentioned anywhere. I've got a J79 to build next and would like to spring it.

 

Cliff

Edited by TinTin56
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12 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

Looks like a great kit, a shame Jim does not offer them in 4mm. Your soldering is so tidy, whats the secret? 

I agree with Simond on that one.  A hot iron powerful enough for the job is essential.  I use an Ersa with 5mm and 2.5mm tips set at 425 deg. I mostly use the 2.5mm and 5mm for really heavy soldering.

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10 hours ago, TinTin56 said:

I started in 7mm as a lockdown hobby last year and I've now built 3 locos and several wagons and vans. On my 3rd loco (a Judith Edge Hunslet), I sprung the middle axle with wire as Ken does on his builds and the pickup is great.

On Jim's Connoisseur kits, like the J36, the centre axle is raised by about .25mm. The centre boss bearing hole in the coupling rod is offset by a similar amount so that they stay in a straight line (at least it was on J71 which I built rigid). If you spring the centre axle, what do you do with the coupling rods? Do you just leave them alone, because any droop in the middle won't be noticed, or do you somehow file the hole so that it is centred in the boss? Not seen this mentioned anywhere. I've got a J79 to build next and would like to spring it.

 

Cliff

Cliff. I did spring the centre axle as usual.  But only minimum movement. 1mm upwards and a fraction downwards.  The coupling rods untouched.  I have not yet done running with motor as yet but runs sweetly with a get push along.

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2 hours ago, jazz said:

I agree with Simond on that one.  A hot iron powerful enough for the job is essential.  I use an Ersa with 5mm and 2.5mm tips set at 425 deg. I mostly use the 2.5mm and 5mm for really heavy soldering.

 

Do either of you use any particular product or method for keeping your tips in good order, please ?

I use an Antex 15w iron for most of my 3mm kits (and one small 7mm loco kit built so far) but seem to have 'lost' the tips effectiveness recently. Even though I've now re-found my tin of tip cleaning 'stuff' I still haven't got it to improve much which is discouraging me from finishing several part built kits at the moment as it's just not fun. It may just be time for a new iron.

Sorry for the slight veer off topic but I'd value your experiences.

 

Regards,

Ian.

Edited by 03060
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I use a temperature controlled iron and I religiously wipe the tip on the wet sponge when returning it to the rest. 

 

You absolutely don't need fancy irons, but they help. 

 

If you are using a non-controlled version, be prepared to clean the tip more frequently, as any solder will oxidise. 

 

I've not used tip cleaner, if it gets cruddy I will give the tip a vigourous session in one of these, and then re-tin it with cored solder, and then flick off any excess.

 

image.png.0af72a89dfe68535d5d6ccae6bda235f.png

 

 

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5 hours ago, TinTin56 said:

If you spring the centre axle, what do you do with the coupling rods? Do you just leave them alone, because any droop in the middle won't be noticed, or do you somehow file the hole so that it is centred in the boss? Not seen this mentioned anywhere. I've got a J79 to build next and would like to spring it.

 

Here, Ken and I diverge. 

 

I tend to spring or equalise all my locos, as it helps pick-up, and it does improve smooth running.  I always hinge coupling rods if there are more than two axles.  Actually, I nearly always use Premier rods, which are available hinged or rigid.  I feel they are a worthwhile upgrade to most kits..

I used to use Fourtrack hornblocks, but have more recently used the Slaters ones.  Both are fine.  Slaters also offer insulated hornblocks if you want to go for split axles too!

There's a bit on my Duchess thread (link below) on horns and pickups, and some stuff on split axles on my Loco Loco thread, I'll not distract further from Ken's thread!

 

atb

Simon

 

 

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TinTin. Back to my Ersa soldering iron.  It's a 50w model temperature controlled. I said I use it at 425 deg, I should have said 405 deg (that was a typo).  Even with white metal I use that temperature except for small casting, then I drop it to about 380 deg and a quick touch with the iron works well for me.

 

Ian, I am amazed you only us a 15w iron, how you mange with that beats me.  Regards keeping the tips clean, I never use the wet sponge method. I the tip cleaner from Squires and the brass sponge method. As soon as the tipsters pick up the solder a dunk into the cleaner solves that and a wipe on the brass sponge keeps in clean for quite a few joints.  My iron is in use all day with no problems.

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A short spell on the WB today see the footplate started.  No problems with that so far. But getting the cab front fitted required very careful alignment as there are no half etches to help with alignment.

 

1192040908_j36loco4-1.jpg.db36ba6eca0c04d7c7d9c10ccc8f599d.jpg

 

Edited by jazz
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This is a locomotive that I plan to build eventually.  Together with the Gladiator K2/2..    So this build I am going to follow

Would appreciate comments and if there are any pitfalls.  

 

Sven 

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12 hours ago, SvenL said:

This is a locomotive that I plan to build eventually.  Together with the Gladiator K2/2..    So this build I am going to follow

Would appreciate comments and if there are any pitfalls.  

 

Sven 

Sven, I've not had any 'pitfalls' with the build so far.

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Moving forwards, the body is coming along nicely.  There is one thing to watch out for, the cab splasher front are unequal. So check that and make the large front the same as the smaller one, then you will have no problems.

 

I will add a photo of the cab interior this evening.

 

282837268_j36loco5-1.jpg.643b05d84facf471b27a6db05b2606fb.jpg

 

 

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