N15class Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 (edited) Now thereis definatly no room for the proverbial fag paper there, I like how simply you do the centre axle, thanks for that photo. Edited April 8, 2012 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I rather like the Black 5, Ken!! JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 I rather like the Black 5, Ken!! JB. It happens to be one of my favourite 'modern' steamers too. Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Hi Ken, that looks great, what axles are you using, they look to bright to be slaters? Regards Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) Len, they are Slater's straight from the box in the photo. During the final assembly I spin the axles in the mini drill giving them a polish with 600 grade wet & dry. I do the same with the wheel tyres. Edited April 9, 2012 by jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 The wet Easter prevented us from enjoying our walks, as getting wet is not our thing. So that meant a bit of time at the WB. The body work is progressing nicely. I have the cab interior to solder up plus a few bits & bobs on the body, then it's it's down to a fair bit of detailing work. Pictures so far. After the relatively easy curves of the running plate front & rear, the firebox, as stated in the instructions, is the most critical folding. This has to be spot on to ensure the whole firebox/boiler/smokebox unit sits square and correct. The front & rear firebox formers make a very nice square blolt up unit using the supplied turned and drilled brass spacers (To be removed after fitting the wrapper). Etched centre marks make a good start. Annealing the wrapper is essential, then the really crittical part is the folding of the wrapper. The secret is fold a very small amount at a time with constant checking against the formers. This part of the operation took almost an hour of folding, checking and tweaking until I had a very accurate wrapper that was a perfect fit. Your bottom should look like this if you have the folds spot on. i.e. perfectly square and an even gap along the bottom. All soldered up and the bolted together. Things will slow down a bit now as we have a bit of a busy time coming up over the next couple of days. More Later. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7mm Mick Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Hi Ken, As ever I quietly watch from the wings and this recent build has re kindled a flame in me to tackle my Javlin Black 5 once again. I have a short firebox version nearly complete in F/S which I intend to convert to S7. How easy do you think the frames will be to rectify, I feel it will be a major undertaking from what I have seen of the valve gear tolerance on your build? Also has the kit had an upgrade under new ownership as the buffers I have are horrible white metal ones? ENjoying the progress, ATB Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Hi Mick. I am not going to be much help here. I cannot say whether Geoff has done any upgrades, I do not think he has. So that leaves Javelin to have done upgrades. This kit (etches dated 1997) has lost wax brass buffers with turned steel heads. All the casing are quite clean and sharp. Regarding converting to S7. I have absolutely no experience in doing that and so have no idea what would be involved. (Except the obvious widening of frame spacers) How that would tie in with the different back to backs, I don't know. I can say widening the frames means they would be closer to the cylinders, the cylnders cannot be moved out as the are already bang up to the valances. Plus as you have already noted, clearances are very tight. I would say, a challenge I am not up to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 From what I understand with S7 is that the outer faces of the wheels are the same distance apart. All the gauge widening comes from the back of the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Hi Jim, I have a David Andrews Rebuilt Royal Scot and have problems with the part rolled boiler. When you finish rolling it and bolt it to the firebox and smokebox it doesn't look right. All the spacers are in the right place, but the angle is wrong, so I have unsoldered it reduced the radius of the smokebox and front boiler spacers filed the boiler smaller and hope that fixes the problem. Regards Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 (edited) Hi Len, (BTW it's Ken not Jim) I'm not surprised you have made the boiler/smokebox or, in fact, the firebox and things do not sit right or even to different radii. This is a common fault with a lot of kits especially when taper boilers and fireboxes are involved. It appears to be a common thing with etched kits, as the etching process can caused small variations which are magnified with a circular former. It's just something you have to live with I'm afraid. I have learned to check all the formers are of the right diameter and will line up. Also when the boiler (tapered variety) has been rolled and correctly soldered to the formers do not actually have perpendicular ends. A lot do not. This Black 5 needed the rear end of the boiler to be adjusted with a file to get the base of the boiler to be parallel to the running plate. (Even though the firebox was bang on perpendicular with the engineers square.) Then the front end had to filed to prevent the smoke from being cocked up towards the from. Only by a small fraction but enough the make it look odd had I not done that. Also the smoke box rear former needed a small amount filing to the exact diameter of the front boiler former. I do not think I have ever built tapered boilers where this has not had to be done. Edited April 10, 2012 by jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Hi Ken, sorry about the name change must be old age,lol. That's good news for me I thought it was my fault!!! Will take notice of what you say I hope that what I do works. Regards Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Just a quick update. Yesterday saw the Black 5 finished & ready for painting today. The detailing took almost 2 days, amazing how time consuming that aspect of a build takes. (I still have to give her a thorough clean before getting into the paint shop though) 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Looks wonderful. You work at an incredable pace. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 HI Peter. Well I do put in a lot of hours to my modelling, 35 - 45 hours a week, Excepting when I have other projects to take me away from the WB of course. Today, I'm pleased to say, sees all my part in the painting now completed. Tomorrow will see the final assembly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 The black 5 is now ready to be delivered. The kit was was up to the usual Javelin/Gladiator standard, going together with little problem> As mentioned earlier, the only real issue was the clearances for the valve gear. Not insurmountable but something to watch out for in the assembly The tender was a particular delight to build, it almost fell together. Here are the final photos. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 That black 5 (along with everything else you build) is a fantastic piece of kit building. The quality of your work gives me a level to aim for in my own work. Please keep the inspiration comming! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Hi Ken, As ever I quietly watch from the wings and this recent build has re kindled a flame in me to tackle my Javlin Black 5 once again. I have a short firebox version nearly complete in F/S which I intend to convert to S7. How easy do you think the frames will be to rectify, I feel it will be a major undertaking from what I have seen of the valve gear tolerance on your build? Also has the kit had an upgrade under new ownership as the buffers I have are horrible white metal ones? ENjoying the progress, ATB Mick Hi Mick, I have no experience of the Gladiator kit but I have recently built a Chowbent Black 5 in S7. Not really very difficult except that I had to make new S7 spacers to space the frames at 28.5mm inside. The Cylinders are built on common spacer which I made to fit over the frames, and the motion brackets were united on another full width spacer which lets me take the complete motion off to access wheels etc. The only tricky bit is getting the front crank pin flush with the outer face of the coupling rod. It helps to get the wheels to scale thickness. I used Slaters and turned them myself. They are just a fraction too thick but by making the rods a wee bit thinner than scale I did end up with enough working clearance. Needless to say you can have no sideplay on the front driver! The cross head being in front of the wheels does not cause a problem. Hope this helps, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 That black 5 (along with everything else you build) is a fantastic piece of kit building. The quality of your work gives me a level to aim for in my own work. Please keep the inspiration comming! Hi Kev. Thank you for your kind comments, they are very appreciated. Regards Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Hello Jazz, something that you may want to consider for any more black locos that you do is on ebay, Just type in. Acid etch primer black. I got some for about £5.00 for a 400ml can, it dries to a nice satin finish so it could also be used as the top coat on the body. For the wheels and frames spot on, so I will be getting some more. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Hi Ozzy0. Thanks for that tip. I will look into it. Appreciated, Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Hi All. I thought you may like to see the Fox Walker in all her glory, painted and lightly weather to a sooty appearance. What amazed me, I put her on ebay yesterday and she sold 'buy it now' in under an hour. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 It looks very good. The light weathering really sets it off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Hi Ozzy0. Thanks for that tip. I will look into it. Appreciated, Ken Hello Jazz, I think that I got a bit mixed up with the price it's £7.45 no P&P and the seller is louisa2033 (39710 blue star). Photo of it on a set of frames that I have just done. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Thanks Peter. OzzyO, the chassis looks very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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