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I've done very little of late, which had been unavoidable, but a star has been made on the Mercian Yorkshire Engine 0-4-0 loco.

 

I started the new batch of builds with what I thought would be a nice simple kit.  That has happened, it's quite a tricky build. The etches do not match up with the drawings needing a few alterations.  Oh well, onwards and forwards.

 

Mercian0-4-01.JPG.8f3a8f4efe9e95fdf9a5b100d86426ae.JPG

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, jazz said:

I've done very little of late, which had been unavoidable, but a star has been made on the Mercian Yorkshire Engine 0-4-0 loco.

 

I started the new batch of builds with what I thought would be a nice simple kit.  That has happened, it's quite a tricky build. The etches do not match up with the drawings needing a few alterations.  Oh well, onwards and forwards.

 

Mercian0-4-01.JPG.8f3a8f4efe9e95fdf9a5b100d86426ae.JPG

 

Very interested to see what you find with this kit, Ken, as I intend to get one sooner rather than later ie whilst I still can. I know Alan Smith of Leeds MRS has built one successfully but I don't remember his comments from his build as it was several years ago now. This may well be the last 0 Gauge kit that I buy for quite a while as I still haven't gotten around yet to building any of the other dozen ones that I've bought but I will (hopefully) one say.

 

Regards,

Ian.

Edited by 03060
Correction.
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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, 03060 said:

 

Very interested to see what you find with this kit, Ken, as I intend to get one sooner rather than later ie whilst I still can. I know Alan Smith of Leeds MRS has built one successfully but I don't remember his comments from his build as it was several years ago now. This may well be the last 0 Gauge kit that I buy for quite a while as I still haven't gotten around yet to building any of the other dozen ones that I've bought but I will (hopefully) one say.

 

Regards,

Ian.

First off, this was a second hand kit from GOG stand at Bingley Hall.   So there was some items missing, most importantly the cast s/box saddle.  There was some missing delicate etches.  You have to watch the spacing on the chassis spacers as there is no etched lip on them for correct positions.  My advice is to use the drawing in the kit to drill brake operating holes. 

 

If you have the drawing alongside you on the build and check it all as you go you should not have a lot of problems that I found.

 

This was an original Mercian kit, it looks like they are under a new ownership and probably been reworked ?? 

Edited by jazz
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4 minutes ago, jazz said:

First off, this was a second hand kit from GOG stand at Bingley Hall.   So there was some items missing, most importantly the cast s/box saddle.  There was some missing delicate etches.  You have to watch the spacing on the chassis spacers as there is no etched lip on them for correct positions.  My advice is to use the drawing in the kit to drill brake operating holes. 

 

If you have the drawing alongside you on the build and check it all as you go you should not have a lot of problems that I found.

 

Good to know someone else buys incomplete kits

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Another day on the Mercian 0-4-0 build .   Scratch building the s/box saddle was todays challenge, got there in the end.  Over the hill now now and on the final straight

 

yorksireengine2.JPG.27c0dbda7eccfc15f476f115ab968c97.JPG

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That's the build competed.  Tomorrow will be the big cleaning up of it and preparing for the primer.  I will have look at the water filler, it's not sitting quite right. the problem is the base is meant for a flat top to a side tank not the curved top on a saddle tank.  Of course I have to add the buffers as well.  I had to raid my scrap boxes to replace missing  parts including the actual roof.

 

Mercian0-4-03.JPG.684726cebf3707022e7fd43d5eaa05ef.JPG

 

mercian0-4-04.JPG.30fbcf9609a5373743cc1461f4f2780d.JPG  

 

 

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Jazz

 

I am newish to building in 7mm scale and would like to ask you a question about fitting Slaters crankpins

 

I am rebuilding a Springside GWR 45xx. In the instructions it states I should file the crankpin top hat bushes of the leading drivers (which are behind the motion) flush with the coupling rods (I am using the coupling and connecting rods supplied in the kit  which are 0.94mm thick) for clearance with the crosshead.

 

Looking at the other 2 drivers, the top hat bearings are much longer than the thickness of the coupling rods, allowing up to 1.5mm side play. The question is should I also reduce the length of the top hat bearings by a mm or so for the remaining 2 pairs of drivers ?

 

As the coupling rods also use the same top hat bearings I assume I should do the same with them ?

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Hi John.   That is often a problem creating clearances on the leading drivers when the crossheads hit the coupling rod bushes.   I leave the 2nd & 3rd axle bushes alone  on the 45xx except for filing the bushes down to a tad over the thickness of the rods.  The leading axle bushes are different.  Decide just how much clearance is required.  Sometimes I need to reduce the thickness of the coupling rods at the leading wheels. Also if still more clearance is required I turn the coupling rod bush round and place the washer on first then the coupling rod followed by the the bush and carefully solder it on.   (Make sure the wheels centre boss will clear the coupling rod before you solder the bush in place.) That works for me.

 

This photo is of the model I am doing that to now.

 

Sorry it's a bit hazy, the close up setting was turned off.

 

couplingrods.JPG.8bbbc97e4facc6a41d9bf71133867391.JPG

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Jazz

 

Thank you very much and you have confirmed my own thoughts, that not to the bearings flush, but also not too sloppy.

 

I am rebuilding a model that someone started but then found some issues which they could not overcome. I am starting to understand that the Springside instructions are not a part by part set of actions but a visual guild with some written notes

 

Another issue is one wheel has a bit of a wobble, I had sanded the backs of the wheels at the start, I may either swap axles or turn it round to see if its the wheel or axle to resolve the issue, having said this the loco runs well on the track.

 

Thanks again for sharing both your time and knowledge 

Edited by hayfield
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Check the wheel is sitting fully up to the shoulder on the axle end. It does not take much to make the wheel wobble. (The larger the wheel, the bigger the wobble)

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That's the Yorkshire Engine Co. loco built and ready for delivery.  It did not turn out not as easy as I anticipated.  Thankfully my scrap box came to the rescue a few times.

 

yorkshire0-4-07.JPG.18c5e68310dccbbb9486dac677b67dbf.JPGyorkshire0-4-08.JPG.dffce9e58bd8e447f74bba40ad86d6d2.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been tackling a Javelin Collet Goods.  This has been started and abandoned and I'm sorting it out to get it finished.  (It's the tender that was part built but I'm Building the loco first this time.  The dummy inside valve gear leaves almost no space for pickups so I'm going to devise some for the tender that will allow quick coupling and uncoupling.

 

Javelincollet1.JPG.07a92292fd3edc72ccb7f64b1be1a1a4.JPG

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On 14/10/2022 at 17:49, jazz said:

The 7F loco chassis is now under way. No problems so far.

 

1515234761_foler7Fchassis1.JPG.ff016ab77416a7a41dcde831aa6aefbf.JPG

I am always amazed by your building and how quickly you motor through them. Do you still have the instructions for this. I am trying to improve a 4mm Alan Gibson one and it looks like the frame spacers are prototypical and I was hoping the insturctions might show the layout?

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1 hour ago, Blandford1969 said:

I am always amazed by your building and how quickly you motor through them. Do you still have the instructions for this. I am trying to improve a 4mm Alan Gibson one and it looks like the frame spacers are prototypical and I was hoping the insturctions might show the layout?

I'm afraid I do not have the instructions.  I always send the instructions back to the guy I'm building them for.  I rarely build locos for myself these days, I've run out of space for them now. 

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48 minutes ago, jazz said:

I'm afraid I do not have the instructions.  I always send the instructions back to the guy I'm building them for.  I rarely build locos for myself these days, I've run out of space for them now. 

Ah well, thanks for taking the time to reply. The hunt for a drawing or decent photos of the frame stretchers and valve gear goes on. 

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