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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys. I've been quiet recently stuck in Florida in our daughters house.  Except for the stress of when will be able to return it was not too bad lazing by her pool in glorious sunshine in 30C +.

 

We were given a rescue flight on email and it was a made rush to get packed and do a 190 mile drive to Orlando for a 8pm departure.   We were taken to Gatwick then coached up to Manchester Airport.

 

A pretty long day to say the least. Still, very glad to be home.

 

Getting ready to return to the WB with the Jubilee under way.

 

 

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Ok, I started the chassis just before leaving for Florida and added the final stage prior to priming/painting this afternoon. Typically with Gladiator kits there was very little problem getting to this stage.

 

Onwards tomorrow.

 

1186248100_Jubilee1-1(2).jpg.437848b7fdf3d9da43bc065f310f7e88.jpg

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15 hours ago, Adam88 said:

I expect that you had to take your woolly hat off then. 

 

It was taking the woolly hat off that done it for the shoulder.  Someone had to grasp said hat with both hands and putting both feet on his shoulders give it good tug.  Glad you are back keep safe.  I was starting to think I could finish this tender before you built that Jubilee.

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You will have to hurry Phil,  it's almost finished. (It will be a surgical operation to remove the hat.)

 

Anyway back to the Jubilee.  Made a start late yesterday afternoon and have got this far today.  All going well with some minor shaving off inland that boiler seam.  Also added a heavy weight inside the boiler, it's quite heavy.   Just some detailing left to do and the cab to sort out.  We'll see how I get on tomorrow.

 

1821267222_Jubilee2-1(2).jpg.3be0359bdf1fad946643e25cd3800cef.jpg

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Hi.  Taking things slow and steady at present, filling in time waiting for a couple of parcels with eight loco kits in them.  That will keep me quiet for a while through the lockdown period.  Hopefully all will be back to normal by the time I have them finished.

 

I sincerely hope hope all our members are staying safe.

 

Here is Jubilee with a bit more done. I had to modify the top feed today after finding it was not correct for the Jub. I did it just from a couple of photos I found.

 

2141733304_Jubilee7-1.jpg.fb8932d23d477ab58f4d23905c516ba0.jpg

Edited by jazz
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Hi, There is a small change of plan.  The Jubilee is now at the primer stage prior to completing the valve gear. I have decided to build another kit prior to finishing the Job and paint both of them together. By then the weather should improve and only one lot of cleanup up on the paint area.

 

The Job as she stands now.

 

1865567499_Jubilee8-1.jpg.30c7cd65cbed1f02792be1ed36e2d424.jpg

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Very nice as always.  The temperature is due to jump from 10 to 20 degrees this weekend - will soon be spring!

Are any of those recent purchases for yourself?  

Can I bend your ear about solder - Do you have any preferences?  Standard tinmans, Carr’s?  I noticed a lot of differences between a low cost brand and Carr’s when I was doing some White metal soldering some time ago. Couldn’t get a nice clean joint but switched to Carr’s and straight away got a good adhesion and a smooth finish. But as I said that was low melt.  Sure you must get yours on a reel and probably use very little so it lasts for years. Anyway, I am at the point of ordering some now so would value your opinion.

Thanks, Phil

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Hi Pal.  Yes, there are two kits, both from Taff Vale Models for myself.  (1) Taff Vale K class 0-6-0 tender loco.

(2) Barry Railway Sharp Stewart 2-4-2 Tank loco.

Edited by jazz
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Hi Phil.  Sorry I forgot the query regarding the soldering. I use MBO products.  Liquid Flux Z60 watered down by 50%. Very kind on your tips and solder runs very freely.

 

The solder, same company 500g reels of SN60/40 for the odd really strong joint. 50/ (can't read the figure) it's worn down) for all other joints.  Low melts 12" sticks from Squires for white metal and small detailing.

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22 hours ago, jazz said:

The solder, same company 500g reels of SN60/40 for the odd really strong joint. 50/ (can't read the figure) it's worn down) for all other joints.  


being a bit of a smart-@£53, I’m guessing the illegible figure’s “50”.  :)
 

Joking aside, some interesting background here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

 

50-50 solders have a working range, rather than a distinct melting point, and are not as strong.


I’ve not knowingly used them, I do nearly everything with 60/40, and low melt, of course.

 

atb

Simon

 

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No idea Simon. All I know it's works good. Flows very freely into the joints and had no problems at all with it.

 

Anyway, I've now made a start on my Taff Vale models K Class tender.  The kit lacks some items, i.e. Lamp irons, brake pull rods, axle bushes and hand rail knobs. (As the kit did not come to me direct I do not know if that is the norm).  I do not know yet how the loco itself will fair.

 

The big issue it sits over 2mm too low on the track.  I have done a few deviations from the instructions and lifted the body higher off the chassis. This will still not be spot on but passable.

 

I am using brass rod instead of axle bushes. I thought the chassis a bit too flimsy to stand reaming out and would have been too near the bottom edge of the etch. I'm also using my usual centre axle springing instead of the compensation in the kit.

 

1752914588_KClass1-1.jpg.50d9531c93f9ff132e0c8e2e9060030b.jpg602616551_KClass3-1.jpg.e61a34daeb2207ea7ea5fb73eef6384b.jpg

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Hi. This w/end is being spent doing dome decorating (have to keep 'her indoors happy).

 

Goods news is the eighth kit arrived today, my Taff Vale Models Barry Railway Sharp Stewart 2-4-2T.

 

A quick look at it and, boy, what a difference to the K Class kit.  This had had a make over by the current owners and looks great, a very professional instruction book with loads of photos of the build in it's stages. The casting are topnotch too. Really looking forward to building her. She will be finished in GWR livery.

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