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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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Well that's almost all the soldering done then is all the 3D printed parts for the body and chassis.

 

I'm not too sure about the pony truck.  I may make some changes to have it swinging and sprung instead of swinging inside the truck box which is not allowing any springing at all.

 

1701246819_countyclass4-1.jpg.4398cf883f5f1f8c2205b93be08865c3.jpg

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8 minutes ago, jazz said:

Thanks, I nearly for about them.

 

Just leave 'em off Ken and make the crew wear raincoats ! :stinker:

 

Joking apart it's one of the last things I tend to solder onto my locos so you're in good company.

 

G

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2 hours ago, jazz said:

One thing though if  I do build another county I would definitely build it in a different way to make life a lot easier.

 

 

Looks the part Ken, it would be interesting to have your thoughts about building it differently. I suppose we would all do that in one way or another with what we build.

 

G

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2 hours ago, bgman said:

 

Looks the part Ken, it would be interesting to have your thoughts about building it differently. I suppose we would all do that in one way or another with what we build.

 

G

Hi. When I say building it differently I am referring to the order of construction from the photographic instructions. Which are very useful but do not cover the entire build. 

 

The main differences I would do is adding bolts to the boiler formers to allow it be bolted to the fold down tab on the sub frame. (I did use a bolt on the tab and passed into the boiler but unable to add a nut).  The smoke box former is a tad too small, so filing off the under cut etch (as normally recommended) I would use the assembly clamps to check it against the 3D s/box door first and it will sit OK in the s/box saddle.

 

Then I would make up the boiler & s/box as normal and clean up the under cut off the rear boiler former or it will end up wider then the 3D firebox front.  The fold down tab needed to be removed and soldered under the bridge it came off making sure the hole in it maintains the correct height.   If you don't do that you will not get the firebox unit to fit between the boiler and cab front.

 

The next alteration is the bunker. You have to be very careful wrapping the overlay around the 3D corners.  Then I recommend making the cutaway in the two corners much larger to allow the 3D corners to be added when the assembly is completed. TI found the bunker the most difficult part of the whole build.

 

The chassis went together quite well. I took another look at it today and found the drivers had absolutely no grip on the rails.  This is because the rear pony wheels have no springing and hold all the wheels at the same level. Placing an obstruction on one rail lifted the drivers off the rail and the rear pony truck.

 

I filed 1.3 mm off the tops of the pony truck slot so the pony wheels can float down and up and in doing so keeps the driver firmly on the rails. Also allows the beam compensation to operate correctly.

 

So the front bogie truck rides well over any obstacles laid on the track and the drivers climb over leaving the other three drivers firmly on the rails. The rear pony wheels meekly follow with no problems.

 

Others will more than likely have other ways to solve the problems I encountered. 

 

Footnote. The boiler clamps 88D sell are will worth purchasing for any build. How I have all these years without them, I don't know. I bought two, one for each end of a boiler or whatever.

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Thank you for the comprehensive reply Ken, always useful to hear about the various "problems" if I am permitted to refer to them in such manner.

It's a loco I would like to have but my stock is far to large currently.

 

G

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Grahame,

 

I’m sorry to assert that you are incorrect.  We all know rule 1, so I will dwell no further on it.

 

Rule 2 is perhaps less frequently published but may be summarised by the following inequality.


x >= x+1

 

or perhaps

 

”the number of locomotives required for any particular layout (existing or intended) is at least one more than the number actually possessed”

 

I’m sure you”” agree that this makes sense, and hope it helps :)

 

best

Simon

 

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That's it done. Hopefully the weather will be kind enough to get the painting under way.  (Doing that in the garage is not pleasant in this weather)

 

That's the Slater's SG29 as supplied by 88D for that kit.

 

90770120_countyclass9-1.jpg.0a3a8827bbb5aecc289f3434d279340b.jpg

 

1218628122_countyclass10-1.jpg.1c504dca107f03c2b8e894b81e680797.jpg

 

 

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At last the Loch Class is ready for the clean up.   A fair bit of adjustments and some scratch building  to get to this stage.  The etches were old and tarnished too.

 

I found Sandy's build of this kit from 2012. That was very useful to see the problems and cures he did to get it into a nice looking model. So Thanks Sandy.

 

1256064961_lochclassa-1.jpg.43c33df44cdfa80c54cc50d59ee207a0.jpg

 

1465801548_lochclassb-1.jpg.ad15288d4aa2c10e290ffbaf9fc71bcb.jpg

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Placing the Loch loco to one side awaiting priming I'm moving forwards with the Connoisseur 4F.

 

This a very simple loco to build with excellent online instructions and photos of the build progressing.  This is much better than the kits instruction booklet.

 

Here is the tender which was a just over a couple of days in construction.

 

1720170068_4F1-1.jpg.1b42f03566364b751ff7f0b001429750.jpg1494165016_4F3-1.jpg.ec4a3f9f01e8bab56451ed40ead449ad.jpg 

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Hi, great to see the Loch off to the paint shop.  My kit for the GWR 30xx has arrived as have the wheels etc from Slaters. I would like to ask you for some advice.  What would you do to this model's chassis and wheels  to get it round 4 foot 6 inch radius curves.  Looking at the kit (Gladiator) I do not think there is much scope for narrowing the chassis.  Probably the axle bushes if I use them* can only get me 30-40 thou per axle more sideplay  by turning the flange thickness down. Do you think a simple and visual  solution might be to remove the flanges from a driving wheel set?  Any thoughts much appreciated. *planned details for the chassis plus outline of the layout is in my post on this forum.  Thanks

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I’m sorry to be negative but building a 2-8-0 and hoping to get it round trainset curves is going to demand some serious compromises.  It’s your call, of course, and it has to satisfy you and nobody else, but I think I’d be thinking twice about your curves.  
 

Don’t miss out the axle bushes, it’ll never run right.

 

I built a Finney 47xx some 20 years back, with the intent of getting it across a Peco crossover, (nominally 6’ but actually a little tighter) which I did.  It was challenging & I think going tighter will be very difficult.

 

your tender will need a long drag link too.

 

atb

Simon

 

 

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I will go along with what Simon has said.   Eight coupled locos on 4' 6" is definitely not a good idea. Neither is trying to narrow the chassis.  When it travels along straight sections it would tend to wander side to side.

 

I build my models for 6' radius for eight coupled and longer.

Edited by jazz
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Switching back to the Loch Class, a bright sunny day so got the painting done.  By the time I got ready for a photo it had changed to dull and raining.  So the photos are a bit ropy, even worse for the second photo.

 

1684616479_Lochpainted1-1.jpg.e93ec4919b283a463e2939fe450d5073.jpg

 

959839502_Lochpainted2-1.jpg.a22195811d43c0805bd746d4d36755c6.jpg

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