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jazz
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This afternoon a bit more done.  I started by test fitting the motor/gear box before proceeding.  As Jim warns, there is very little room for that.  I am fitting an 1833 to a 40:1 fold up box.  I found the rear brake pull rod prevented the motor to sit at a suitable angle. Answer was to put a bend in the pull rod to make a clearance.

 

You will have to take your time and make sure the firebox/boiler and s/box are a perfect fit to the formers and the locating slots in the footplate. Otherwise you will have problems.

 

Here is my effort so far.

 

The downward bends for the pull rod. (The gear wheel is off centre in the photo, the spacer in on the wrong side in my haste to get the photo:blush:)

 

1034645667_j36loco7-1.jpg.e376e4cef8df8eeb1a71ef4f0b026313.jpg

 

2095894125_j36loco8-1.jpg.5a2cf332eeb58aaef3a5667f9a1e18f2.jpg

 

177323781_j36loco9-1.jpg.742e500685d3f41261f88ed4a40b412e.jpg

Edited by jazz
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No problem arose on todays build but there is still a bit to do yet. The cab needs sorting, sandpiper fitting and the drawer bar sorting. Plus owt else I find to do on it.

 

1061439483_j36loco10-1.jpg.1b388c3c14eddaa86bc8a50041285b70.jpg

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That looks superb, Ken, thanks for showing us the build. :good_mini: .....now, what could I use one for ? :scratch_one-s_head_mini:

 

Regards,

Ian.

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I have been building the Mercian Teutonic kit. Starting with the tender, as the instruction booklet says, not a kit for the inexperienced. Anyway this is the tender, unable to complete it at present as I'm now awaiting the correct buffers.  The chassis is using cradles for the wheels, these comprise one fixed, the centre one rocks and has small up and down movement, the last one just rocks. The downside is you cannot remove the wheels once built. That's why I've painted the chassis so the axles and wheels do not rust during the remaining soldering on it.

 

So its onwards with the loco.

 

397238880_teutonictender1-1.jpg.6245216e60b1864b70052ff725ed4954.jpg

 

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1858465653_teutonictenderb-1.jpg.56cff80ddb13c60c44df44dea1ecf786.jpg

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38 minutes ago, Simond said:

Looks good, Ken

 

I'm not a fan of trapped wheels.

 

strange brakes too?

 

atb

Simon

Yes, not a great design. The brakes are a weird design as well, hanging in front of the wheels like that. (A case of working with what's in the kit).   If it were for myself a lot of scratch build building would be in order.

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On 21/05/2021 at 07:50, jazz said:

Thanks Ian.  It was a nice kit to build.

 

Ken

 

Great to see that you have built an NBR loco!  What's the livery going to be. Given the plated coal rails I would expect LNER Or BR?

 

Nothing happening for me as everything is now packed away pending the upcoming house move. 

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Hi Shez. No idea what livery it will as it's not for me and is now in the hands of it's owner.  Regards, ken

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Glad to be back on the WB this afternoon after spending the last three days getting my head round a microsoft PC after using my macpro laptop for the past few years.  Any way Ive now stared the Teutonic. A strange loco, and a bit complicated when it comes to the motion.  Hope to figure that out tomorrow.

 

IMG_0002.JPG.b1459ccef03908c3fcffa80a1c3c509d.JPG

Edited by jazz
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What a day this has been.  The valve gear has been a nightmare,  first was working out how it operated. The reading through the instruction sheet there was warnings that the cleaarances were very tight. That turned out there was no clearances. So spent a long time trying to get it all working without it jamming up.  Result was all day to get one side done. Hopefully tomorrow I will get that other side done quicker.  I have to complete this first side as the is a bit more to add to the valve gear. Also ther is some cleaning up with the slide bars where they join the piston casting and slide bar support.

 

PS the gunge on the leading driver is masking fluid to prevent rusting up whilst soldering.

 

IMG_0003.JPG.2bd2dfb5c1dcb2d734eaaba774d13a5c.JPG

Edited by jazz
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Looking excellent Ken!

 

I have a 4mm one to build in due course and the unusual valve gear was one of the reasons I wanted to build one. Round about the time I bought the kit I researched it a bit and found quite a few animations on YouTube, plus a short film of a 7mm model running, which showed the valve gear very clearly, so if you're still scratching you had a bit it might be worth taking a look - forgive me of course if you've already done that! I just now searched under 'Teutonic Joy Valve', and it brought up all sorts of animations, though I haven't yet located the 7mm model film I saw,

 

Chas

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Nothing done yesterday, plans went out the window.  Finally finished of the chassis valve gear this morning.  Needs a proper clean up and you can see the very small clearances. Everything had to be filed down to the absolute minimum.

 

 

 

IMG_0002.JPG.1020cd824dd3e16ba7b66b3f51be59a5.JPG

 

IMG_0001.JPG.021443d36f674e1fbe6ee996016e3fd3.JPG

 

Just worked out how to add another photo on windows (so different to Mac)

 

Edited by jazz
Image added
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1 hour ago, Simond said:

I was struggling with that, until I thought - ah, maybe no coupling rods...

 

how will you power it?

Correct, no coupling rods. An 1833 motor and 40.1 gears to the rear axle. lots of weight as well.

 

image.png.e3fd66eff2ab2d96bdf63fe42a2f8ff3.png

Edited by jazz
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I remember PD Hancock mentioning (RM, June 1978?) about an idea for a slightly free-wheeling arrangement to transmit power from worm-wheel to axle, involving a freely rotating worm wheel with a pin parallel to the axle, which engaged with a pin that went through the axle and which was perpendicular to it.

 

I wonder, just as an aside/bit of fun, if it wouldn't be possible to connect the two axles with a delrin sprocket and chain, as used by the diesel modelling fraternity in O, with the sprocket on the rear (high-pressure) axle fixed, and the sprocket on the leading (low-pressure) axle driven by a similar arrangement of pins. This would sort-of replicate the prototype having slip eccentrics on the LP cylinders, so that on starting, you only get the rear axle providing power, but after a wheel's turn (or half a wheel, if your perpendicular pin stuck out each side of the axle equally) the leading drivers would also contribute to providing power.

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Yes, that did cross my mind when I started the build. Then quickly discovered there was no room for the sprocket plus the gear box on the driven axle. Besides the loco is not for me and the owner is happy to have just the one driven axle.

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18 hours ago, jazz said:

Besides the loco is not for me and the owner is happy to have just the one driven axle.

 

16 hours ago, Simond said:


that sort-of sorts that out then!

As I posted that suggestion, I did think, "I hope Ken's customer doesn't read this and add it to the spec!

 

(Even with a lack of room - are there not slimmer gearboxes available?) something involving pulleys and a drive band might be possible. I mention this only out of curiosity.

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If memory serves correct the late Dave Walker, who designed the chassis , had a built up one running on his layout. The motor was placed centrally and drove front and rear axle  , and happily pulled 5 or 6 coaches round. To power one axle even with weight you'll be lucky to pull the skin off a rice pudding .

 

John

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Yes I know all that and discussed the issues and using what was supplied with the kit. So all will be well.

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Very little done on the Teutonic today so not worth adding photos of it. However besides gardening chores I did, at last, get the Taff Vales kit of the Rhymney R Class sprayed GWR Green.  Back to the Teutonic tomorrow and making a start on finishing off the R Class.

 

IMG_0003.JPG.127785df0ce68dcb5f6e8cb8452d63be.JPG

 

Edited by jazz
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