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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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On now with the next loco. This is a Gladiator LMS/BR Mogul couple to a Fowler tender.  Not decided yet whether to fit the doors or not.

 

Didn't take long to build as it's the usual Gladiator design and goes together easily.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been rather busy of late and only got to the WB for the odd hour or two.  So to date, I've put the chassis to one side and started the body. That's coming together OK. The cab and some details still to do then back to the chassis.

 

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Looking at my photos, I could not figure out why they were out of focus the further away from the camera the model was.

 

Problem solved by turning off the AF Assist. 

 

This is now how it looks:rolleyes:

 

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Edited by jazz
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That's as far as I can go with the build until it's been through the paint shop (garage in reality). 

 

The CCW cast pony will will need a Slater's pair I think,  that's up to Geoff though. 

 

1353108417_IMG_0006readyforpaint.jpg.dd85ff6ac2e149d48672bb2d8af96b92.jpg

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13 hours ago, jazz said:

That's as far as I can go with the build until it's been through the paint shop (garage in reality). 

 

The CCW cast pony will will need a Slater's pair I think,  that's up to Geoff though. 

 

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Looks fantastic Ken:good:. I have one in the to do pile which I think will be my next loco construction.

JF

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Now for a disaster story.  Recently I built the Slaters CR Pug. I thought it was a lovely model that would do on my layout.

 

I then saw a CR pug on ebay at a very low price. It was, though, the ex Gateneal kit. I thought hmmm. but went ahead and won the bidding.

 

What a disaster it turned out to be when opening the box. Far worse than all I remembered of those very iffy kits.  So a start was made on the build. Straight away it was sujdject to a whole lot of scratch building and alterations. Starting with the chassis spacers being way, way too narrow (they are square brass ones.  12 washers and longer screws sorted that out. The cylinders and cross heads are unusable so that will be more scratch building plus the parts not included in the etches.

 

The body work required way more alterations and scratch building.

 

Except for the water filler and safety valve base the very few castings were binned.  Slater's came to the rescue with brass castings mainly from their CR pug. That includes the white metal dumb buffers, the sprung buffers are from my scrap box as is a few other parts.

 

So the cylinders have yet to be made.

 

This is it so far.  And thankfully I still have the Slater's Pug here ready for delivery to compare what it should be like. I forgot to mention the cab wrap around rear plate was only 4mm too narrow

 

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Edited by jazz
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...only 4mm too narrow?   Must have been one of Gateneal's good days!

 

You've done a good job as usual - you would never know what you started with.

 

I've got a pile of Gateneal kits to make/bin sometime - brought them 30 years ago before I knew what I was doing - I'll have a look at them some day!

 

Jeff

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Best of luck with that Jeff.  I have to admit some of them I built in their heyday weren't too bad to build requiring relatively small amount of botching to bet right.

 

I also forgot to mention the connecting rods on this kit, the etched holes were 1.5 mm too close together. So I had to lengthen the rods to fit the axle holes.  The supplied axle bushes were far too small to fit the etched holes. I used the much larger Slater's ones and reamed the holes to fit.

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That's the pug ready for prep to paint it.  Before that I have it's little tender to build.  Hopefully that will be a lot easier that the actual loco.

 

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Edited by jazz
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1 hour ago, JeffP said:

Did/does anyone do a 7mm model of the ex-NBR LNER Y9?

A very quick search in the Guild Gazette listings reveals that LocoTech did one - mostly resin - in the mid-1990s.

Dave

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2 hours ago, Crewe North said:

Nice build.......wonder why Gateneal decided to put all those  rivets on the tank though  ....but I've answered my own question....its a Gateneal kit...

 

John

Hi John.  I have been thinking about those rivets and how much better it would look without the centre two rows.  So I just may remove them prior to painting.

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1 hour ago, Blandford1969 said:

Much better without those rivets, what does the backhead look like, did you have to do much with that?

Hi Blandford1969.  The backhead casting is just about passible.  I did dump the regulator handle and used a nice lost wax one.  Although the backhead is a bit different from the Slater's one I will add the brake handle. When the fooplate crew is fitted it will be well hidden anyway.

 

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Edited by jazz
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10 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

mmm, yes see what you mean. Amazing that for 7mm its not better.

Well it is a Gateneal casting, they never were very good.  You should have seen the white metal solid cylinders, they were oval for heavens sake.  So I had to scratch build the replacements.

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