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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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Hi Jazz

 

I can confirm that photographs in Peter Tatlows 'Highland Locomotives' show tablet catchers on both sides of the locos.

 

Thanks for the description of the faults. I'll take the plunge and get a set of frets from Redcraft and have a go with castings from Laurie Griffin.

Regards

Sandy

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No Problem Sandy. It is possible that Redcraft have addressesd those issues. This particular kit I'm building is quite an old version juding by the heavy tarnish, which is very typical of what Geoff digs out from under his layout for me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All. I placed the Drummond loco to one side awaiting some parts and photos from Geoff. So I started this NER J21 and made the decision to continue with the build and leave the Drummon. IN THE MEANTIME a holiday in Eastbourne seemed a deal we could not refuse so having returned just last Friday I have not quite finished either models. Now awaiting some detailing info from Geoff on the J21's pipework below the footplate, balance weights and a couple of other things for the loco number he now wants.

 

Enough waffling, here is the J21 to date. It's the Four track version now marketed by Geoff, Gladiator, and as a few challenges to complete the model. Nothing too bad though.

 

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Very nice! How many will you build over Xmas Ken? !!

 

Good question, working on a Chowbent Castings Stanier 2-6-2T. Not much happening here over Christmas, our only daughter is living in the states. We can talk over the webcam though.

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Hi All. Hope you are all having a wonderful Christmas break. I spent a pleasant hour looking through the galleries. I came across Jim Reads gallery and fell in love with his Armstrong Whitworth 0-4-0 deisel electric

 

By all accounts this little loco was the very first diesel electric passenger loco used in this countery. I felt this a perfect model for my light railway.

 

Jim kindly furbished me with the drawings he used and I have made a start on scratch building one for myself.

 

I am using a sheet sheet of 15 thou brass. Slaters L & Y Pug 3' dia drivers, a Mashima 1824 coupled to 40:1 from Roxey. I may have room for a flywheel too. The model will be filled with lead to make her a heavy model.

 

The drawings needed to be redrawwn to 7mm scale. I did this on the PC by resizing the original and by using my scale rule quickly got it to exact 7mm scale. Then I simply used the monitor as a light box and with a sheet of paper taped over the screen. (Basically the smame method I used in my stained glass work)

 

This is the result and ready to go.

 

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After carefully marking out the footplate and frames these were cut out using a fret saw and a scibe for the straight cuts. I scribe a deep groove in the sheet brass then gently bend back and to for a clean straight break.

 

The lagre hole in the footplate has a small hole drilled in each corner and then using the fret saw is cut out by joining up the holes .

 

The frames are tac soldered together then marked out for the axle holes, the jack crank, pickups and brake hangers.

 

All were centre punched and drilled out on the pillar drill. The axle & jack crank holes were then reamed for a perfect fit for the bushes. The motor axle is fixed and the other axle is sprung with a short length of piano wire for faultless current pickup.

 

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The chassis attached the the fooplate. Just the detail between the frames to complete before moving onto the body. (This build will be done in the odd hour or two as work progresses on other building projects.

 

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A little more done on the Armstrong Whitworth. The chassis is complete except for the conrods and jackshaft. I am awating the wheeks from Slater's. (I have 2 pairs of 3' wheels in the scrapbox but the wrong type for this loco, this has allowed me to continue with the build but not the con rods etc.)

 

Onward with the cab Front, back and sides were marked out all holes drilled and cut out. Rivets punched out and window surrounds soldered on. Also the hand rail knobs soldered on.

 

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All soldered in place and the cab control desk added. All cab detail to be added when the bonnets have been soldered in place.

 

 

 

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To be continued.

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More progress on the Armstrong Whitworth. The rear bonnet was made in three pieces, sides and hood. After riveting the sides these where soldered in place on the footplate. Then lead was soldered between the sides for added weight. The hood was carefully bent to shape and soldered to the tops of the sides.

 

Finally, the detail was cut from brass sheet, riveted and soldered in place.

 

The buffer beam was cut from plasticard, riveted and glued in place. The vac pipe, a white metal casting, was also glued in place.

 

I found a pair of cast brass head lamps from the Branchlines Ford Railcars in my scrapbox and I am utilising them on this model.

 

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Next the front bonnet was cut from four sections. front, rear and two sides. The radiator hole was fretted out and the detail soldered on. Again, from the scrapbox I found an etched radiator grill from one of their diesels that I then soldered on the inside of the detail.

 

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The chassis detail was also completed at this stage. (Just waiting to order the Slater's wheels tomorrow. Then I can make the connecting and coupling rods plus the jack cranks.

 

 

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Thanks Geoff. I'm now at the stage where I have to break off from this build for a few days. (I have to start a build for my pal Geoff (Gladiator)

 

I have been raiding the scrap box again and cobbled up the air tank, air pump and generator from various castings. Cutting and shunting plus a little reshaping. They have turned out a fair representation of the prototype.

 

Amazing just how much detail can be added to such a small and simple loco. There is still the cab to detail to add, there seems to be a lot in there too from the photos. Also the cab steps to knocked up.

 

Here she is for now. What I cannot see on the drawings and photos is the diesel filler cap. I figure the appendix on the bonnet top by the cab is the exhaust. It is possible the filler cap could be in the engine compartment but I figure this would be rather unlikely. It could be below the footplate similar to the BR Class 08/09. Anyone know better please???

 

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A short break from the Armstrong Whitworth. I am now working on a Gladiator Rebuilt Patriot. This should be a straightforward build (having built four of these, I know they are a cracking good kit.)

 

The Chassis was completed in an afternoons work. The body has gone well today and is well under way.

 

The only tricky part is getting the bends on the sides spot on. I used Metalsmiths mini folders for this task. Careful measuring and easy on the folding was the secret to good bends.

 

here is the tender so far.

 

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:D Switching back to the Armstrong Whitworth, I just have the jack cranks, con rods and connecting rods to sort out. A start has been made on the weathering too.

 

I am pleased to say Slater's was very accommodating in making a special casting for me to make the unusual jack cranks. Slater's, I thank you, excellent job.

 

Also I have to offer my appreciation to Jim Read for the inspiration to build this cute diesel electric. So unusual to find such a small loco buit especially for passenger traffic and not the more usual industrial/goods shunting type.

 

Here she is so far. (Ooops! some double uploading here)

 

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Almost finished. Just the painting/weathering to complete, crew, glazing & lamps to add.

 

I found left over rods from a kit i built a while ago. The connecting rods were too short and the coupling rods too long. So it was a cut and shunt plus making the backing laminates. Here she is ready to roll.

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Morning all. Nice to be back online, thanks Andy. It's been all go on the rebuilt Patriot. Chassis is as far i go before painting. This to allow easy stripping down of the cylinders and associated valve gear.

 

The body is progressing well. There has been no problems with the build so far.

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Just had time to assemble the firebox yesterday. Spent the day on the Wirral.

 

L like this method of assembling etched fireboxes. With a little care in the bendinding and spot on alignment of the half etched location marks makes the job so easy.

 

I anneal the firebox etching so it is very soft and easy to shape using steel bars and fingers. The brass rods are removed when solderd as a unit

 

This is it ready to solder together.

 

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Yesterday sees the smokebox/boiler/firebox units made up, bolted together and soldered to the footplate. All went well with only a small amaount of filing required to make the firebox sit snug on the footplate. Judging by my photographs the unit appaers to be 2.5mm too long. The choice was serious reworking of boiler/smokebox runining the nice etched detail. So as she is to have smoke deflectors this discrepancy will hardly be noticed, if at all.

 

Here she is at the start of todays efforts. Beginning with rolling the smokebox.

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Lovely Ken, is the paper to preserve the rivet detail?

 

 

Yes, the double folded paper protects the rivet detail. Also, it assists the breass to run through the bars with skidding.

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An afternoon adding detail. Taking shape now. I think the slightly overlong boiler/smokebox cannot be noticed with the deflectors in place. These have been made removable by adding two small pins soldered behind the deflectors and locate into two small holes drilled into the footplate. Painting would be quite difficult in not done this way.

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Lovely stuff Ken. What colour do you heat the brass for annealing? Does it work the same with nickle silver?

 

Thanks

 

John

 

Thanks John. Anneal until a nice cherry red, cool naturally. Then I use a scratch brush to make bright again where you need to solder.

 

Works just the same on nickle silver.

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