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RNAS Glencruitten - Relocating Lenabo

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Oh! that bodes well for a speedy build...... :O

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to be fair my skills at the time where less than now ( and still are not that good   :nono: ) it is also a early Association etch,  later etches and chassis often utalize  bearing cups as jigs designed into the etch,  your be fine

 

Nick

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I intend to finish it in post 1908 livery with diamonds and LNWR lettering.

You mean like the left hand one of these two?  The other one is through piped, hence the diagonal stripe, and in the post 1912 livery without diamonds.

 

post-25077-0-27416800-1493666458_thumb.jpg

 

Jim

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Well, I had hoped to get the boards built, or at least well on the way today.

 

I had a couple of 4'x2' sheets of 6mm MDF in the garage left over from another stalled scheme. These were going to be pressed into use for the end panels.

Unfortunately, a year or so stored in a damp garage had not been kind (combined with a couple of floods thanks to a blocked drain).

The boards had a light covering of mold, although this brushed off and the boards looked dimensionally sound I don't want to take a chance.

Given the move into a warm room any moisture absorbed will evaporate and cause problems with shrinkage.

 

Instead I tidied up the boards I had with sandpaper and cut out the Fiddle yard turntable:-

 

post-13616-0-40284500-1493666328.jpg

 

This will be a manual turntable aligned by eye.

I am not planning to use any bearings, I have found in the past an underlying layer of MDF offers little friction so enables a smooth spin, but enough friction to prevent unwanted movement.

 

I also took the opportunity to get the first pieces of track down, albeit in the fiddle yard  :boast:

 

post-13616-0-81000700-1493666520.jpg

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Ok, who knicked my bearings? :butcher:

Between taking the earlier photo and walking back upstairs to my workbench I managed to lose the bag of bearings.

I've just spent an hour looking for them to no avail. :banghead:

 

Looks like another shop 2 order required.

Edited by Argos

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Ok, who knicked my bearings? :butcher:

Between taking the earlier photo and walking back upstairs to my workbench I managed to lose the bag of bearings.

I've just spent an hour looking for them to no avail. :banghead:

 

Looks like another shop 2 order required.

 

You lost your bearings! 

 

(someone had to say it)

 

Hope you find them again.

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You lost your bearings!

 

(someone had to say it)

 

Hope you find them again.

It could have been worse! At least it wasn't his marbles! (but maybe, like the rest of us 2FS folk, he's already lost them a long time ago :-o )

 

Jim

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It could have been worse! At least it wasn't his marbles! (but maybe, like the rest of us 2FS folk, he's already lost them a long time ago :-o )

 

Jim

 

Are 2FS marbles different from N Gauge marbles, then?

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Are 2FS marbles different from N Gauge marbles, then?

Yes....they are 0.42mm finer..... :jester:

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Thanks to whoever snuck in yesterday and placed the bag of bearings in my trousers pocket..............

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As I've actually got some wheel bearings there is no excuse for not doing some modelling. :beee:

 

So I've got a rolling chassis and the basic body box complete.

 

post-13616-0-49933800-1493927982.jpg

 

Whilst reading up on the D88 vans I noticed a photo in LNWR Wagons of War Department van built for the Ministry of Munitions in 1917 by an outside builder, predominantly to the LNWR D88 design (sorry I can't find a photo I can use).

 

It is different enough to stand apart but close enough to be an easy adaptation.

 

If this kit continues to go together well I might attempt one for a later month's build.

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Although it has been a week or so since I last posted, it doesn't mean that I haven't made progress.

I didn't think posting repeated photos of wood (well MDF...) being cut would be particularly entertaining.....

 

Anyway, the basic structure of the module is now done:-

 

post-13616-0-67866900-1494793325.jpg

 

Which enables the board with the track bed to be dropped in:-

 

post-13616-0-66051500-1494793371.jpg

 

At this point progress has stopped because the front fascia has warped slightly (my own fault, I left it overnight not properly supported or braced) so I am awaiting the delivery of some sash clamps to pull everything back square again when the remaining cross struts are installed.

 

Eventually the baseboard will be cut to enable the stream to be lower than the base level.

 

post-13616-0-29740400-1494793570.jpg

 

The view into the fiddle yard shows all is in order, I have some space to install some additional spurs into the corners which will increase capacity.

 

Finally, it has not all been chopping wood, the D88 van is all built and awaiting the paint shop.

 

post-13616-0-62212700-1494793706.jpg

 

So build one of the 24 build challenge is on course!  :boast:

 

Edit:- "Clams" changed to "Clamps" .... no sea creatures were harmed in the making of this module...........

Edited by Argos
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Thanks Nick.

 

It went together well, my biggest battle was with the tip of my soldering iron which I couldn't get clean.

all was well once I replaced it.

 

I am currently soldering on a wood base, I must find something more suitable.

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As the baseboards are progressing and I am on track with the van build I thought I'd take stock of the motive power possibilities.

 

After all, however much operating potential (or not.....) there is on a Cameo layout, without some motive power nothing is going to move.

 

So the current situation of three stalled builds:-

 

post-13616-0-46558000-1494875655.jpg

 

From left to right:- a 498 0-6-0t white metal body kit, a 439 0-4-4t from a Worsley works kit and a 171 0-4-4t scratch build.

 

The 498 has paused because I am slightly daunted by the outside cylinders, I've never built a chassis with outside cylinders, so not ideal for my fist scratch built chassis.

 

The real thing in later BR days with a rather ugly stove pipe chimney:-

 

post-13616-0-38547500-1494876665.jpg

 

The 439 has stopped because the leading wheels foul the boiler. I will have to cut some slots into the boiler to allow the wheel to spin , I'm just plucking up the courage to do it! The loco is currently sitting on the Worsley work chassis although I have bought a 2mm association LSWR M7 chassis kit for a Dapol conversion to see if this might assist. The driving wheels and driving wheel wheelbase is the same as the 439 tank.

 

As preserved:-

 

post-13616-0-27929600-1494876874.jpg

 

Finally my attempt at the 171 tank stopped, I have the chassis built but although the wheels spin smoothly they are tight and don't spin as freely as I would like. I think a full disassembly is required.

 

post-13616-0-55645400-1494876931.jpg

 

I need at least to locos for the layout so I am going to focus my attention on the two 0-4-4t. Both were synonymous with the Oban and Ballachulish lines.

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the M7  is my only truly  successful 2mm steam chassis although I cheated and built it as a 0-4-2-2 as the etch allows

 

although it is now suggest you drive the trailing  axle not the front as designed

 

Nick

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It's funny, I'm trying a similar thing in O with a M7 going to a Scottish Drummond 044t. Moving the bogie pivot in closer, and the chassis is right, but I'm finding there's nil clearance with the leading wheels and the boiler, it must have been very tight on the prototype, with mine theres a hole appearing in the boiler behind the splashers.

Likewise, I've got some outside cylinder jobs I keep putting off and putting off, when I finally get there I'll wonder why I ever worried, I'm sure. I bet you'll achieve it before me.

I see on the cameo layout thread there's a lot of hot air being generated on what the ideal viewing height is. Wonder if this allows for airships? Good luck with it, it's shaping nicely.

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And disaster strikes......

 

Following Monday's post I decided to grasp the moment and mill out the wheel slots on the boiler of the 439 tank.

As this build was the most advanced it seemed logical to restart this build first.

 

The first side went ok and a nice slot was cut which let the boiler clear the wheel.

On the second side the body popped out of the vice and the milling bit chewed its way along the boiler and into the side tank.

I guess I should have held it tighter in the vice but I was scared of damaging the sides of the tanks.

 

post-13616-0-36397700-1495140026.jpg

 

post-13616-0-95804700-1495140042.jpg

 

I supposed I should be annoyed, but too be honest, I felt I could do better then original build anyway.

My skills and equipment have come on a long way since I started this build some four years ago.

I also had a spare etch in the kit box (I always intended to eventually build one 439 tank in original CR  condition and one at the end of its life in late 1950s BR condition).

 

One of the advantages of modeling in 2mm scale is the costs are not as eye watering.

Apart from time, all I've lost is a £15 etch, I dread to think what the cost would have been in 7mm.

 

Anyway, taking the positives, a new build is underway using the second etch.

This time around I'll build the chassis first.

I've a sneaking suspicion that I would have had to resort to additional butchery of the body to fit the body over the motor in the original build.  

This is something I can build around now I am starting afresh.

 

post-13616-0-03570100-1495140422.jpg

 

So I am now working on the least completed engine......so much for logic

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This time around I'll build the chassis first.

I've a sneaking suspicion that I would have had to resort to additional butchery of the body to fit the body over the motor in the original build.

 

I will never understand why anyone would think it sensible to build the body of a loco first, particularly in 2FS where clearances are so tight! Apart from anything else, if you get a short, how are you going to know where the problem lies when it's all hidden behind the bodywork? If the body won't sit down properly on the chassis, how do you determine what is stopping it?

Far better to build the chassis first then add the body bit by bit, checking clearances etc. at each step.

I have had the situation of having to build a new chassis for an existing body because of wear and tear on the original, but at least then I had a good idea of where the problems were likely to be and I did it in 'reverse', checking the fit of the chassis at each stage.

 

Jim

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True enough, my first build was a kit, and I got it, then sent away for the wheels, so I thought I get started while I was waiting for them. The superstructure went together easily, then the wheels arrived, so... then I found I had to redo all the splashers for insufficient clearance. Still, sorry to hear the miller went for a walk.

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In fairness this is my first engine build in 2mm so I'm still on the learning curve.

 

I'd always intended to make the body and chassis separable to make access easy.

 

The temptation to start on the body is always too great to resist, this is, after all, where the majority of the recognizable character of the engine we are modelling appears. 

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In fairness this is my first engine build in 2mm so I'm still on the learning curve.

 

I'd always intended to make the body and chassis separable to make access easy.

 

The temptation to start on the body is always too great to resist, this is, after all, where the majority of the recognizable character of the engine we are modelling appears. 

 

This is of course thought provoking and useful.  As my first loco build is still a while away but is probably from a 3D print I had never considered not putting the body together first, although to be honest they are mainly done.  However it now makes sense to start at the bottom and work up.  Thank you.

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I've asked this in an old thread in Modelling Questions but with little uptake (but then I only posted it 8 hours ago so I may be being impatient.....)

 

Being a pre-grouping modeller I've always realised that at some point I would have to tackle some lining that I wouldn't be able to find decals for.

 

To that end I've been looking out for some bow pens. Wandering around the local vintage market yesterday I found these at what I though was a reasonable price:-

 

post-13616-0-71219600-1495390568.jpg

 

The whole lot was wrapped in a chamois pouch and while some items are tarnished, some covered in a light rust I hope to get them back working again.

All the joint still move smoothly.

The pens are mark "Reynolds" and some of the compasses are marked "Thornton".

 

post-13616-0-85747400-1495390586.jpg

 

There were also some small tools tucked away in a side pocket:-

 

post-13616-0-74818900-1495390613.jpg

 

Which when unpacked look like this:-

 

post-13616-0-41316900-1495390639.jpg

 

Anyone identify what these are for?

 

Thanks

Edited by Argos
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They look like thingy-me-jigs for extracting whats-its out of doo-daas to me :-)

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