Connectors for inter-baseboard links

[Gordon H]

I was thinking of the way the wires to individual point motors and other accessories would need to be routed from a control panel - many more for DC than for DCC, meaning computer D connectors might be the way to go. If it had been power on a DCC bus, then it might have been a different story, I think, although now I think about it I'm not 100% sure of that.

 

Depends what you mean by 'many more' and what form they might take.

It is interesting that there seems to be no problem in the world of DCC thinking, whereby it is accepted that special extra units (i.e. Accessory decoders) need to be fitted out on the layout and controlled via the Power/Control bus.

The only alternative that most people seem to consider is the traditional 'wire, and lots of it, back to a panel' approach.

A compromise that I adopted many years ago was the notion of similar 'extra units' which do the hard work of driving solenoids locally with the high currents that entails, but with each controlled by a single low current wire - so all you need is a power bus and a 'thin' wire for each point back to the panel instead of lots of high current wiring for everything (and connectors to match). Less connections to go wrong to start with, and consequently easier fault tracing thereafter.

[phoenix160]

Have a quick look at these from Elite Baseboards

http://www.elitebaseboards.net/product/ewe-link-2

[retiredoperator]

Hi Modellers    I have got a problem connecting two baseboards together electrically, I am only concerned with the bus wires, I thought that it would be simple and chose “ Banana plugs and sockets “ but I have come a cropper! I keep getting a short circuit , which I cannot trace. The first baseboard works fine by itself, but there seems to be a short somewhere . Could it be the banana plugs?   Happy Modelling Kev 

[cliff park]

Are you talking 4mm banana plugs? It would be virtually impossible to have a short circuit with those. A picture maybe, or a part no. might help.

[shortliner]

Have to admit that I feed my track power through the bolts that join the boards - accessory power is done by the choc-block connectors (pin and socket) as per photos earlier - self stick Slug Tape  https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/273434992767?chn=ps&var=572820399603  (available in wider widths) makes great buss feeds and means that wires can be short

 

Edited March 26, 2019 by shortliner

[RedgateModels]

On 12/04/2016 at 13:35, Crosland said:

It might if it was DCC and there was a 10 Amp booster involved 🙂

 

and if it was DCC then the toggle clamps (if used) could pass the DCC bus from one board to another 😉

 

 

Also works for one engine in steam DC too 🙂

 

Edited July 29, 2022 by RedgateModels

[retiredoperator]

Hi Cliff.  Thank you.  Yes they are the regular 4 mm banana plugs and sockets, the plugs are wired to the bus and pass through the baseboard ( crudely but isolated) and the sockets are secured to the original baseboard and the wires are soldered to the bus. As for a photo, My iPad does take sharp photos, but how do I post them on RMWEB , And what part of the wiring?  Happy Modelling Kev 

[retiredoperator]

Hi Redgate Models.  Thank you. Yes I do use toggle clamps (c/o Station Road Baseboards) but  I didn’t think of that.  Happy Modelling Kev 

[TheQ]

If you're using toggle clamps then I prefer these, a bit more expensive but as they are adjustable you don't have to be as accurate fitting them and they can be adjusted later if required..

 

 

 

Edited March 27, 2019 by TheQ

[kevinlms]

20 hours ago, retiredoperator said:

Hi Modellers    I have got a problem connecting two baseboards together electrically, I am only concerned with the bus wires, I thought that it would be simple and chose “ Banana plugs and sockets “ but I have come a cropper! I keep getting a short circuit , which I cannot trace. The first baseboard works fine by itself, but there seems to be a short somewhere . Could it be the banana plugs?   Happy Modelling Kev 

It won't be the banana plugs/sockets. Are you sure you haven't transposed the wiring to them?

A multimeter is a tool worth having if you don't already have one. A cheap one is all you need.

[Kingzance]

On 12/04/2016 at 09:59, cpman46 said:

Couldn't agree more. Picture of wiring to a Tortoise motor below.

No loose wires to short out else where and easy to insert in less than ideal lighting conditions under the baseboard.

We also use D type connectors on our O gauge test track, 16 sections to put up and take down and have had no problems in the last 12 years.

Nice neat job CPMan46!

The cable ends as shown are terminated in what are known as boot-lace ferrules. These are available to suit cables from 0.2mms to at least 6mm2 CSA and can be sourced in an arrangement that allows two wires to be added into the same ferrule (see grey and yellow wires in the photo). You will require a tool to compress the tube onto the stranded wire it contains and this may be of the circular clamping style or of the more familiar ratcheting lever style. There are two colour standards, French and German. My advice would be to stick with one standard to avoid confusion. Many electrical wholesalers like City Electrical Factors stock them, RS-Online and Farnell do too. The other point in the photo above is that the wires have a slip-on identifier on them. I tend to use the coloured numeric ones but whatever you use, it makes tracing cables (and faults if they occur) so much easier.