sir douglas Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 like ive said above, i dont know what to do next in terms of scenicsi haven't got any ballast yet so ii cant do that but i have cut out the platform from 2' x 4' block of 2" foam board, the second side of the footbridge has been cut out and the two sides are ready to put together. im next thinking about the backscene, i have 4 large pieces of 2.5mm mdf and i'm wondering if i can use it instead of having to buy 2mm ply Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) MDF is usually rather heavy, and a bit of a pig to bend (if you need to ). Horse docks seem not to have been so common as cattle docks, and not to such a standard "recipe". Some seem to have had no enclosure, others a fence at the back, but, and I'm open to correction, they seemnot to have had a fence at the platform edge. I wonder if hoses are too nervous to be left alone on a platform, so we're walked there only once a van was in-situ, or were always tethered. K Edited April 4, 2017 by Nearholmer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 both sides of the bridge stood in about the right place held by clips deffors (100) by Sam, on Flickr platform blocks deffors (101) by Sam, on Flickr before i cut the blocks, a jig was cut from an offcut of timber for getting the platform edge right deffors (103) by Sam, on Flickr deffors (102) by Sam, on Flickr wooden blocks have been glued in to stop the bolts from coming out, i had to take a few mil of the tops to clear Halfmoon's bufferbeam deffors (99) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Ive concluded that there isnt much weight difference between the mdf boards that Ive got and some ply of the same size so ive cut them to size, batons have been glued on around the scenic break to protect the edges and to attach it to the back scene Deffors (104) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (106) by Sam, on Flickr A big problem i knew would happen a long time ago was having enough space for my hands inbetween the stock and the scenic break to operate the sector plate track bolts, so ithought of cutting away the scenicv break below the level of the bridge path surface and haing the bridge hollow for a hand hole, that might be fine for me because there is just enough room for my small hands but what about when anybody else is having a play cant get to the bolts, so my idea is why do i have to rweach over to the bolts and instead bring the bolts to me using cranks and rodding to have knobs on the front of the layout under the bridge Deffors (105) by Sam, on Flickr I was going to buy 2 large plastic cranks yesterday but the only shop anywhere nearby that does RC parts like these has closed down ages ago, so ill have to make them Deffors (105) b by Sam, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 since posting the above, i remembered hat there is another RC shop nearby so will go round sometime soon for the cranks. In the meantime, ive covered the platform blocks in cardboard as a base layer to work on and glued together the sides of the footbridge with cardboard for the foot path deffors (109) by Sam, on Flickr deffors (110) by Sam, on Flickr I'm not going to do any more work onthe bridge until the sector plate bolt rodding is in place and then once the bridge is done i can build up the polystyrene earth works around it 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Coming on nicely, keep up the good work. :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 The goods yard has now been clad in cardboard which i was putting off until i found the right thickness which i found from an electrical appliance boxDeffors (122) by Sam, on Flickr Last night i was browsing some issues of the Midland Record in our clubs library, a photo of a bufferstop made of chunky timber of at least a foot square timber with rounded ends which made me think "i want that"After i got home last night i made a start, made from 7mm square firework stick, they are stuck toether with PVA and track pinsDeffors (115) by Sam, on Flickr This morning i continued qith the addition of the angles bracingDeffors (116) by Sam, on FlickrDeffors (117) by Sam, on Flickr The bufferstop for the loop shunt is a block of wood screwed & glued down and will be clad in timber to represent a box of sleepers filled with earthDeffors (119) by Sam, on Flickr 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turin 60 Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Love the buffer stops, keep it up. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 while ive not been working on the rodding for the sector plate, or not being able to decide on the scenics, i have been able to at least lay the base layer of polystyrene to build it up on but only along the front. Since i dont know yet whats going inbetween the goods yard and horse dock, ive left that blank Deffors (121) by Sam, on Flickr while laying the polystyrene, ive been leaving a 2mm gap around the board edges to put in a protective facsia at a later date Deffors (124) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (127) by Sam, on Flickr As i started working on the rodding, i noticed that the brass tube was able to move a bit becasue the copper clad was seperating from the plastic core, so i thought that instead of just replacing it with new copper clad, i should replace it with brass as the new copper clad will seperate again and again eventually, hered is one of the brass pieces cut and sat in place but not sodlered in and i have yet to un-solder the other tube and rail from the copper clad Deffors (125) by Sam, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guius Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 a neighbour threw out a wardrobe with a ply back so i nabbed the ply last night, first thing this morning i cut out 60 x 125cm for one of the boards, with enough left for the sides, ends and a stretcher. templot plan laying on the board. I cut the plan down the board join and cut back excess paper either side of the track but leaving some at the end (top left of plan) as a board edge reference Deffors (23) by Sam, on Flickr I like the re-cycling aspect, not adverse to a bit of 'skip diving' myself. I even have a cut down aluminium ladder that I use for the 'tricky' high sided jobs. Regards Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 added a isolating section into the end of the loop shunt for the goods loco to sit in while the passenger loco runs round new gap cut into the rail deffors (128) by Sam, on Flickr new panel face deffors (129) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) i havent been working on the layout for nearly 2 months now but today i had to work on point No 3 to stop the trailing wheel on "Thunderchild" derailing on it. the stock rails were out of gauge just off the end of the blades, this caused the wheels on one side to dip in and push the other wheel out and ride over the blade. i loosened the chairs from the sleepers on the near side rail. the rail was crow barred over with a nail and hammered in, the chairs have been glued back on. now im waiting for the glue to dry so i can remove the nail and test it Deffors (130) by Sam, on Flickr Edited June 7, 2017 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 going back to the copper clad on the track ends of the fiddleyard, ive decided to not use the pieces of brass sheet and instead use 2 parallel strips of copper clad and replace the piece of ply underneath the old copperclad and ply removed, i also had to remove the nearest sleeper on each track for the new ply deffors (131) by Sam, on Flickr new ply cut and shown in position, this is 2 pieces of 2mm ply stuck togther and will be sanded down to the right height to fit under the copper clad deffors (132) by Sam, on Flickr new copper clad soldered on, but not screwed down yet and the ply isnt stuck down yet as it still needs sanding down a little bit. as said before wwhile i was trial fitting the brass rods into the tubes, they were moving and twisting a little bit and some of them came off so this time ill cut longer tubes and solder them down to the 2 copper clad strips so they cant move or twist deffors (133) by Sam, on Flickr the copper clad on the sector table was also removed to replace with new parallel strips and after they are on, i can start soldering on the new tubes and eventually put the cranks on deffors (134) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 new piece of ply glued down onto the fiddleyard plate and fixed down the copper clad with countersunk head bolts from B&Q bought yesterday. The copperclad sleepers are offest from the rails to give plenty of room to solder on the brass tubes, thr first tube was soldered on before i ran out of solder, the copperclad on the "on-scene" side are screwed down with Wilko 4G x 13mm screws deffors (136) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 All the tubes were soldered on yesterday after buying more solder. The 1/8th brass rods had holes drilled into one end of each for a wire to be soldered into Deffors (137) by Sam, on Flickr a few minutes ago i finished fitting the cranks and knobs, all thats left are the links between the cranks and the rods Deffors (138) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 the links were made and fitted last night, out of rejected loco con rods. Deffors (139) by Sam, on Flickr Now ive got a working layout again I can get on with the scenics starting with the bridge end and the horse dock Deffors (141) by Sam, on Flickr as already said about the 5mm gap along the edge, the board will also cover the front of the foam board with a hand hole to use the knobs Deffors (140) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Last night I continued with cutting and shaping blue foam board for the landscaping. this is the current state, the hill agaisnt the bridge slopes down to level with the platform for the station building to sit on, a slope is cut into this hillside by the railway cutting into it. the cut outs for the point switch will eventually be covered over with something Deffors (142) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Looking good Sam. I like the way you've used rods in the fiddle yard, good bit of engineering there. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 the board i'm using for the backscene had a teak pattern laminate on one side so that has now been sanded off and the backscenes are ready to be screwed on Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 backscenes now screwed on and the scenic break screwed down as well but they're not glued as well Deffors (143) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (145) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (144) by Sam, on Flickr first coat of white emulsion just on the backscene,the rest of the layout will be painted much later after the protective fasciasaround the board edges and the stock shelves in the fiddle yard have been fitted Deffors (146) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 That first coat didnt come out as well i thought it would, the main reason being the course brush i used which left deep brush strokes, trying to sand them down in position was a bit awkward so took them off to sit them flat and sand them down on the work bench more layers of paint with a soft brush and sanding down has given a really good flat coat. No im going to have a go at painting a cloudscape, i dont want the usual sunny blue sky most people do, i want a dull grey sky. the sky had here looked about right so i photographed it as reference a bright blue sky mostly covered in grey clouds 003 by Sam, on Flickr 002 by Sam, on Flickr 001 by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 no modelling today as ive been in a field near cleckheaton looking at tanks trucks and jeeps, and tomorrow ill be elsewhere looking at vintage buses and other vehicles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 Cleckheaton https://www.flickr.com/photos/59562189@N03/sets/72157683216887054 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5UR8LSZzKc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_rH1ulklsE Heath common https://www.flickr.com/photos/59562189@N03/sets/72157686062449835 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 On friday i tried painting one of the backscene boards but it didnt go well so last night i tried again a dull blue wash and clouds, im not quite happy with the clouds but theyre good enough for now Deffors (147) by Sam, on Flickr and a dull blue wash on the other two boards Deffors (148) by Sam, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) i wasnt happy with the wash either so instead ive mixed up a background colour but it looks a little bright, i mixed up too much so ive got excess which ahs been contained to not go off so ill mix it up to be paler and a little grey Deffors (149) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (150) by Sam, on Flickr Edited August 17, 2017 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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