sir douglas Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 new contact plate made form copper clad sleeper, the old phospher pick up on the lever was cut back as it is a bit thick so i soldered in a new bit of thinner strip so its springier, the copper clad has 2 isolating gaps instead of 1 to give a dead section in the middle so that the lever pick up doesnt short the circuit when passing over the middle deffors switch (5) by Sam, on Flickr cutting out a slot in the casing for the rodding, a brass rod cut and bent, a brass strip with a hole in will be soldered on to connect with the nut and bolt on the lever deffors switch (6) by Sam, on Flickr the other 3 contact plates made up, the other 3 phospher strips, red wires and the 4 brass rods cut and bent deffors switch (7) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 Boundary wall across the front of the track has been pondering my mind lately and on Friday i made a start on 2 lengths, one from the right hand end of the platform going diagonally to the front of the board and the other from the foot bridge to the platform the japanese saw i got for christmas does a clean cut intot he filler and foam to cut a trench for the wall to sit in Deffors (262) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (263) by Sam, on Flickr green foam board excess to requirements on green ayre Deffors (266) by Sam, on Flickr same on the other side Deffors (267) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 i got a second hand controller at York show, but it wasnt going to work without some additions that wasnt confident in doing, i also got a potentiometer to replace the one in my AMR in an attempt to remove the dead spots but it was a little too big to fit and after soldering the old one back on the controller panel it didnt run the same, i made it worse, so thats 2 useless controllers, example potentiometer pic so what to do next, i have a Hornby controller that i got he transformer plug from, why not remake that into a handheld parts when disassembled, the plan is to cut off the protusions for the AC terminals and the power plug, the terminals can come off as they are useless to me and i i dont need tohe plug as the power will feed through from the existing plug on the layout controller (1) by Sam, on Flickr controller (2) by Sam, on Flickr Terminals now cut off and marking up before cutting the plug off, careful planning by marking up the new feed points, A on the plug is linked to point marked D and B linked to C so C and D will be the new feed points controller (3) by Sam, on Flickr care was also taken to cross referencing the feed terminals with the layout wiring diagram to ensure the feed is connected the right way round with the layout plug through the din plug on the front panel the power plug controller (5) by Sam, on Flickr the panel plug deffors (129) by Sam, on Flickr the existing track wire as replaced during the wiring, the 2 twin core cables are a electrical appliance cable cut in half, the AC terminals were re used as a cable retaining clamp controller (6) by Sam, on Flickr The C and D points have been renamed to correspond to the A and B on the old controller so it matches the wiring diagram One of the bolt heads has been isolated from the circuit board with a styrene washer, the other doesnt need to be as the circuit was from the plug to the terminals the plug from the old controller has been removed ready for re using but ive just ran out of solder controller (9) by Sam, on Flickr controller (7) by Sam, on Flickr wiring diagram wiring (3) by Sam, on Flickr notes on the controller circuit, the track supply wires through C and D have yet to be determined which way round they'll go will be done later by trail and error wiring (4) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 bought solder today and got the plug attached and it works, now i just need to make a case for it 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 the case is made and fitted, there is still some vents i'd like to cut out to make sure it doesnt over heat through long running sessions all the joins are interleaved with wide finger joins, marked out paper to get the cut outs in the right order controller (13) by Sam, on Flickr the built case up side down controller (12) by Sam, on Flickr trial fitting with the lid controller (14) by Sam, on Flickr drilled through in the corners for nut & bolts controller (15) by Sam, on Flickr To minimise the case thickness, the clamp nuts protrude through 2 holes in the case bottom controller (16) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 4 levers bought at the liverpool show at the weekend Deffors (268) by Sam, on Flickr vent holes drilled in the controller controller (17) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 half of a brass wire connector soldered to one end of each switch bar and marking out the mounting plates on the copperclad board Deffors (269) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 now taken possession of the narrow gauge staithe and water tower from Long Preston which Jamie still had in his shed all these years and a pile of old points from the fiddleyard which are only missing their blades, a lot of the copperclad sleepers are knackered but its free frogs and stock rail for me i would lkie to use the water tower on Deffors so will repair it and find a good position to sit in in long preston NG water tower by Sam, on Flickr long preston NG water tower 2 by Sam, on Flickr but the staithe will be just wrapped up and put away for any possible future use long preston NG tippling staithe by Sam, on Flickr water tower as it was on LP back in the day staithe 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 (edited) the steel point rods had to be cut back and reshaped to fit into the new levers which have now been fitted, holes were drilled to the side for the wires to pass through the board, so ive now at least got mechanical point control but need to flip the boards over and connect the wires Deffors (271) by Sam, on Flickr Edited May 7, 2018 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 (edited) going through the show guides last night at the club to find when that last photo with the staithe was taken (2 posts up), i knew it was wakefield show because of the steelwork and breeze blocks but didnt know it was 2002, the photo above that with the tower was taken by Steve Flint for railway Modeller in 2005, the tower is about 16 years old and been knocked about a little bit in a shed for the last 7 but only needs some small repairs inbetween working on some modelling for a competition ive been patching up the tower, started by repainting the brickwork, and replacing corners of the tank that have broken off, the brick repainted with railmatch dark brick and the hut with sleeper grime, under side of the tank with the end of the I girders patched up replacement intake pipe out of 3mm steel rod with styrene rings for the connection flanges at 4ft lengths with support brackets in the middle tower (4) by Sam, on Flickr tower (5) by Sam, on Flickr down curve added to the out pipe for the loco hose to come off, an added detail added is the stay rod and end plates, tower (6) by Sam, on Flickr Edited May 12, 2018 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 23, 2018 Author Share Posted May 23, 2018 a bit more on the master's house the last window was cut and fitted, all the roof fascia and the chimney added deffors (273) by Sam, on Flickr deffors (272) by Sam, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 24, 2018 Author Share Posted May 24, 2018 (edited) the thought of exactly what is going go in the current blank foreground of the layout has been eluding me for a while with the exception that it will vaguely include some buildings and sheds, after putting in the green foam walls the scene in my head started to become clearer at least at the bridge end anyway. fronting onto the station forecourt is a cottage but half of it is missing because it is off the board, behind that is a small back garden with what could be an outhouse, lav or coal shed backing onto the footpath cutting into the slope to give level footing for the shed Deffors (274) by Sam, on Flickr mock up of the shed sat in place with mock up of the cottage, the supposed floor height is raised to match the back door to the garden as its higher which means the front door is 2 foot up so what im thing is like at Nora Batty's house with the steps going down across the front isntead of outwards Deffors (275) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (276) by Sam, on Flickr http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/7857380.jpg Deffors (277) by Sam, on Flickr and for the cottage itself i'm thinking of something like this near me, a squat cottage, the gutter is probably only about 12 or 13 foot off the ground, its got he right look i want and its in the right setting as the layout back scene is of that village from a distance and on the layout the short height wont block view of the trains much https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@53.6748743,-1.4605081,3a,18.6y,275.92h,93.23t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sOLyxWV8Ny2wCIZVt9xcPQw!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo2.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DOLyxWV8Ny2wCIZVt9xcPQw%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D270.11923%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656 Edited May 24, 2018 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 Back to the point switches, about a month ago i bought some motors on ebay for future loco builds, and on 2 on them 4 micro switches were attached (2 each), so i hought i could use them on my point swtches for the frog polarity, but first they had to be tested to see if they could do 2 way current or just on-off, 1 of them had a third wire soldered on and the 3 wires rigged up to the track with a motor crock clipped to frog and stock wire, just as intended the motor stopped when i pressed the switch, next was to move the motor crock clip to the other stock rail and this time the motor only ran with the switch pressed the small micro switch is just above the 3 clips Deffors (278) by Sam, on Flickr with that a success, the wires from the copper lever plate were soldered on Deffors (279) by Sam, on Flickr The phospher strips are now obselete and have been removed. To mount the switches, a rectangle of nickel is soldered to the copper sheet with 2 10BA buts soldered on, these go through 2 holes in the switches with a styrene spacer underneath to sit them at the right height to be pressed by the brass rod on the lever. i was going to solder them to the copper sheets as assembled but was worried of melting the switches while i adjusted the positions to match the brass rod so instead, the rods were removed from the lever and the switches from the nickel mounting so i could then solder them on out that fear, after letting them cool down, the switches could be bolted back on and the rods soldered onto the levers and adjusted to the switches Deffors (280) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (281) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (282) by Sam, on Flickr that just left a bit of wiring to do underneath which is now done 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 the boards are backup and everything works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 ive been AFK for the weekend while i went to Perth show with Chris and his Overlord, the weekend before at Middleton railway i bought a gauge master controller for £2 but didnt want to mention it until i knew it worked, i rigged it up to the power and to a motor and it runs fine controller 2 by Sam, on Flickr while i was looking at the wiring diagram to work out which wire goes to which to fit the controller to the layout ii noticed that 2 of the wires had been drawn the wrong way round, so that was fixed. While i was there, ive been meaning to tidy up the wiring in the control panel, add a set of blocks for the controller plug with the A to D naming to match the diagram drawing and add a retaining clip to the loom as it leaves the panel to the layout so any pull on it doesnt put strain on the wire joints. this is a U bend of brass wire pushed through holes and the ends bent over on the other side panel by Sam, on Flickr The modified Hornby controller was only meant as a stop gap until i got something better like this, the Hornby will now have its plug moved over to the gaugemaster and be put in the back of a drawer 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 (edited) panel box has now got 2 coats of black gloss to match the boards and a brass holder for the controller has been bent and screwed on First coat on the panel box and the side of the house Deffors (287) panel by Sam, on Flickr Second coat and holder screwed on Deffors (291) controller panel by Sam, on Flickr roofing sheets were bought from York modelmaking at York show 3 months ago. Now just the lead and ridges to add, a start has been made on the bay window on the other side Deffors (290) house by Sam, on Flickr Edited June 28, 2018 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 30, 2018 Author Share Posted June 30, 2018 Starting the Bay window with 4 cut away trapezoids which make up the top, bottom, window sill and lintel, the structure is built up from the inside also forming the window frames Deffors (292) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (293) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 The other narrow window frame cut and glued in and a backing piece to give strength and to form the roof onto. The ends of the trapezoids have been cut back to the edge of the backing and the outer skin is being built up starting in the middle Deffors (295) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 the other day i spent nearly 3 hours just adding bits, letting it dry then filing it down. Adding a bit... repeat, which put the bay window almost ready to stick to the house except for the midle piece of roof, which was the first part made today, the slating has been added and the brick work around it has been started, i wanted to fir the bay window to the house before doing this to make it easier to line up the brick courses, some card which happens to be green will make up the ridge tiles and leadwork Deffors (296) by Sam, on Flickr another part been worked on inbetween were the roof timber ends sticking out under the eaves, four on each end Deffors (297) by Sam, on Flickr 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 4, 2018 Author Share Posted July 4, 2018 (edited) all the cardboard for the lead work is done but no the ridge tiles. a coat of brick red paint has been applied to the house but if forgot to finish the brickwork on the bay window before hand, getting paint on the window rames, doors, fascia and leadwork dont matter for now as they will be gone over after the brickwork is done chimneys made out of screw plugs Deffors (298) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (299) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (300) by Sam, on Flickr ps. looking back at that chimney photo, im puzzled why i held it with the second finger not he first Edited July 4, 2018 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 6, 2018 Author Share Posted July 6, 2018 (edited) i'm currently borrowing a book form the club library on making buildings by geoff Taylor. in it his method of doing mortar is to paint on the pale cream paint and then wipe off the excess with tissue, my attempt isnt perfect but it is satisfactory for my first time doing mortar on model brickwork, while the cream was being used i did a base coat on the stonework. The remaining cream excess will be dulled down with weathering random discolouring of the bricks Deffors (301) by Sam, on Flickr last night another realisation came to me about the positioning of the house. if you were waiting on the platform, you'd rather not look at somebody going to the toilet and if your were going to the toilet you'd rather not have people on the platform looking at you Deffors (302) by Sam, on Flickr so im going to have to have the house the other way round with the bay window side to the platform, so the name board has been moved round, which also fits better with the prototype photo with this side to the platform with the name board above the plain window, i chose a colour at random that would look nice, a Humbrol dark green which went on the doors, windows and name board but i forgot to do the coal hatch. the lapping on the ridge tiles is being applied by Geoff's method of glueing one end on with pva and letting it dry before glueing the other end down, the leadwork has been painted with a humbrol grey. Deffors (304) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (303) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (305) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (306) by Sam, on Flickr Edited July 6, 2018 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 painted the eaves and coal hatch, the ridge tile strips are stuck down and the nameboard has th white added Deffors (307) by Sam, on Flickr Deffors (308) by Sam, on Flickr 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 some work across the layout fascia adding support timber and cutting down the hill a bit deffors (311) by Sam, on Flickr deffors (310) by Sam, on Flickr deffors (312) by Sam, on Flickr deffors (314) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) continuing the brickwork at random some bricks were dashed with the dark brick paint and, some dashed with a frame dirt brown, the stonework was dry brushed with the brown then the whole house was rubbed down with it using tissue Edited March 4, 2019 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) Another little job off the list was to paint around the point switches and the fiddleyard knobs, this was after a friend operating it last year and commenting that you couldnt instantly see where the finger holes were because of the glossy black fascia On the left, the cardboard covers are now white inside and the housing around the switches are also now white with the levers painted red looking at 2 of the switches with the now painted covers on, also noting that around the fascia cutout has been painted as well, the fascia was cleaned up and painted over after this photo the knobs were unscrewed before painting Edited December 23, 2018 by sir douglas 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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