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Heaton Lodge Junction


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  • 2 months later...

Simon

Just to say as well as following this thread with great interest, I have been trying out your techniques and have 2 things to say about this. First the dried crushed earth really is magic powder in terms of toning everything down and second using the food blender to mix the static grass is a stroke of genius, since doing this I have had a massive improvement in the look of the finished item, as spinning it up in the blender gives it a fair static charge before it even goes into the applicator Fantastic

all the best

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Simon

Just to say as well as following this thread with great interest, I have been trying out your techniques and have 2 things to say about this. First the dried crushed earth really is magic powder in terms of toning everything down and second using the food blender to mix the static grass is a stroke of genius, since doing this I have had a massive improvement in the look of the finished item, as spinning it up in the blender gives it a fair static charge before it even goes into the applicator Fantastic

all the best

Thanks for that..

 

I nicked the food blender idea from Gordon Gravetts book 'Modelling grassland & landscape detailing' really great ideas in it for perfecting scenic modelling. 

Simon

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Simon. How long do you leave the fibres in the food blender for coz Sylvia has got a spare blender out in the shed that she said I could have so I might give it a go ?

 

Do you put them through the blender just the once, or every time you go to use it ? 

 

Cheers mate.

 

Allan

Edited by allan downes
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Simon. How long do you leave the fibres in the food blender for coz Sylvia has got a spare blender out in the shed that she said I could have so I might give it a go ?

 

Do you put them through the blender just the once, or every time you go to use it ? 

 

Cheers mate.

 

Allan

Hi Allan I mix different shades and stick them in for about a minute. It separates them and they are much easier to discharge from the static grass gun. Don't forget the earth powder or grind up some soil until really fine and sprinkle that on afterwards. That is what makes the biggest difference in my book to the finished grass. Cheers!

Simon

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Thanks for that, Simon.

 

Just a quickie. When you sprinkle on the earth mix, do you glue it down in anyway with a pre coat of spray varnish say or just let it drop into the fibres ?

 

Cheers, mate.

 

Allan

Just let it drop into the fibres Allan - on to the PVA or whatever glue you use. I usually give the whole lot a spray of matt varnish too. The earth powder 'Treemendus' does is brilliant but a fiver a bag. Crushed dried soil then sieved as fine as poss, is a close second.

Cheers

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Thanks, Simon.

 

I think I've still got a bag of it that you brought over once when we rearranged the World over coffee and cake ! - Oh, and do you dilute the PVA and, if so, by what ratio  although I use it neat and maybe I shouldn't ?

 

Cheers.

 

Allan

Edited by allan downes
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Just installed the junction sign that lasted a few years at HL during the early '80's.

Made by Absolute Aspects I've weathered it with AK interactive weathering powder & model mates rust liquid..

 

Last pic is the new relay box. I like the AK range and they do a product called corrosion texture which is a nice colour and as it says, leaves a nice rusty like surface..

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  • 2 weeks later...

While I'm waiting for the next 2 boards to arrive so I can make a start on the scenery for the next section, I've a couple of projects on the workbench.

First is a fenced off concrete compound used to house propane cylinders and a large calor type tank which fed the gas point heaters up to about 1989.

Pete Harvey had the fencing etched for me which I soldered together. He also had cast in resin the propane cylinders and the tank itself which I've just painted. They are awaiting 'Calor' logos and weathering. The concrete is Humbrol pale grey with talc sprinkled on to roughen the surface finally weathered with AK Interactive slate grey powder.

 

I'm also teaching myself to get building some rolling stock, and on the bench is my first attempt at a JLTRT TTA tank. I need about 25 of these. I got a spare pack of fitting with it as I knew I'd melt some bits and damage others which is what happened. I'm fitting roller bearing in the axleboxes so they run very free. With 25 behind a '37 they need to be.

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Might I timidly suggest that the calor cylinders are a little too intense? A bit of fading, perhaps?

 

Best

Simon

Yea I know :) they are awaiting weathering and Calor Gas logos. There is nothing bright on Heaton Lodge everything is filthy!

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It's been said plenty, but I have to say how impressive this is. Can't wait to be able to see it in the flesh, Every element is just superb.

I'm not sure I can fully comprehend the scale of it! 

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It's been said plenty, but I have to say how impressive this is. Can't wait to be able to see it in the flesh, Every element is just superb.

I'm not sure I can fully comprehend the scale of it! 

That's very kind thank you. Bit behind schedule but it'll get there in the end.

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I'm fitting roller bearing in the axleboxes so they run very free. 

Interesting idea.

 

Please post some photos of how you do this.  Which brand of wheels?  Where do you get the bearings?

 

thank you, Graham

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Hi Graham,

The bearings come from M&M models and are supplied with two sets of standard 3 hole wagon wheels. The axlebox of the kit being built needs to be opened up with a 4mm drill bit to accept the miniature bearing.

Once fitted the kit runs extremely freely with much less resistance than even normal rtr

 

 

Simon

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  • 3 weeks later...

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