RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted August 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2018 Ridiculous. In the nicest possible way. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Pics would help I guess.. I can feel the spines from here!!!! C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 What polystyrene sheets are you using? Where did you get them from? I would like to use something similar for the landscape forms on my little layout... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 The Polysterene sheets I just get from B&Q or Wickes and use a hot wire cutter to get them to size. I use no more nails type glue to stick them together.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) Would welcome some suggestions on this.. I want to portray at least a 2 sq feet of the opposite banking with dead bracken on it. (See B&W pic) I’m using etched brass ‘bracken’ leaves but the problem is how to secure each leaf to the plaster coated banking. I’ve thought of either soldering a 1 inch bit of brass rod to the end of each leaf then drilling a tiny hole and ‘plant’ each one. Hot glue gun won’t work as there is too much glue and it’s too messy for this. Given I’m going to need to do at least 1000 to get any sort of effect it’s a bit arduous! Any suggestions much appreciated.. Edited August 5, 2018 by HeatonLodge40 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 This is the real location.. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) Simon My approach would be... Copper wire salvaged from old mains cable, cheap... Cut strips of bracken from fret, leaving them attached to the long strip. Drawing pin it to bit of soft timber Big soldering iron, tack wire to leaf stalk, cut off wire. Repeat along the strip. Turn the strip around and repeat for the ones facing the other way. Spray green / brown Remove drawing pins Spray other side When dry snip off individual stalks - Xuron cutters Plant in holes You can obviously be drilling the holes whilst the paint’s drying. I think I counted 23 or 24 on one side of one strip and rather fewer on the other side - hopefully they are not opposite each other - but I’d expect to solder a strip in 10 or 15 minutes. Same again to paint, same again to plant. I reckon that makes for about 12 hours’ work to do 1000. It’ll be worth it! Best Simon Edited August 5, 2018 by Simond 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Simon My approach would be... Copper wire salvaged from old mains cable, cheap... Cut strips of bracken from fret, leaving them attached to the long strip. Drawing pin it to bit of soft timber Big soldering iron, tack wire to leaf stalk, cut off wire. Repeat along the strip. Turn the strip around and repeat for the ones facing the other way. Spray green / brown Remove drawing pins Spray other side When dry snip off individual stalks - Xuron cutters Plant in holes You can obviously be drilling the holes whilst the paint’s drying. I think I counted 23 or 24 on one side of one strip and rather fewer on the other side - hopefully they are not opposite each other - but I’d expect to solder a strip in 10 or 15 minutes. Same again to paint, same again to plant. I reckon that makes for about 12 hours’ work to do 1000. It’ll be worth it! Best Simon Maestro! What a great idea thanks very much Simon! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Pleasure, hope it works ok! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 6, 2018 Why not leave the leaves on the fret, just fold each side up so they are upright together? You can tack-solder wire across the fret to be bent down to fix in holes. The fret can be curved along its length to give variation. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted August 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 6, 2018 Why not leave the leaves on the fret, just fold each side up so they are upright together? You can tack-solder wire across the fret to be bent down to fix in holes. The fret can be curved along its length to give variation. I like this solution. Would note though that it's a design fault on the etch not to have thought about how to plant them. ScaleLink etched ferns have "feet". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 STubby, your approach is entirely sensible! Even if Simon cuts the strips into quarters or halves, it'll be quicker than my suggestion. Though it's a bit of a shame they didn't etch them with variety of sizes along the strip - though I imagine that would mean fewer fronds per £ of brass... best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 I will show the results of the planting within the next week or so! Thanks to all 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
phixer64 Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 As regards to the brass, etching, it can be glued using some of this. Military models use it on their models Excellent work on the layout, by the way. Regards Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 (edited) No one ever thinks when they get into railway modelling that they're going to end up modelling bracken... Edited August 7, 2018 by Dr Gerbil-Fritters Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 I’ll try that flexy superglue thanks. That is a problem with superglue -the way in which it can be very brittle. This stuff looks much better and looks to be about the same price on line. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted August 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7, 2018 Last few days has seen me working on the next couple boards. The real location at HL in this particular spot is covered in gorse. The best thing I’ve found to duplicate this is Polak’s medium bushes (available on line). I spray each individual bush with varnish then sprinkle on dark green scatter before doing the same with yellow to represent the flowers. A hot gun is used to secure each bush - 200 so far so about half way Have you a link to your medium Polak bushes please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted August 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2018 Have you a link to your medium Polak bushes please. https://polakscenics.uk/product-category/bushes-reeds-flowers/medium-bushes/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted August 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2018 So much choice! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 So much choice! There is so much choice but cos none are the dark green gorse is I end up covering them with scatter. Shame but it works.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Today I’ve been constructing the first prototype scenery trolley extension. Basically I figured this would be a relatively cheap and easy way of doubling the width of the model to between 8-10ft. These trolleys are just to carry the scenery on the top deck (which on the prototype just consists thankfully of more of the same greenery). I’ve used 2cm aluminium square tube with plastic push in connectors. (Aluminium warehouse on line). The tube cuts easily to size to make a rectangle with 4 castors at the bottom. 9mm MDF will cover the bottom deck to carry stock etc (might as well kill two birds etc) and the left side a sheet of thin aluminium onto which the back scene will bolt. That’s the idea anyway. I realised too late this first one is far too long to get through and swing round the main entrance so now going to have to cut it down a couple feet. Anyone any idea on what to use to support the top deck onto which is just polystyrene scenery. I can only think of MDF as it has to be fairly strong and rigid to support the scenery and help strengthen the trolley.. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted August 8, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 8, 2018 Today I’ve been constructing the first prototype scenery trolley extension. Basically I figured this would be a relatively cheap and easy way of doubling the width of the model to between 8-10ft. These trolleys are just to carry the scenery on the top deck (which on the prototype just consists thankfully of more of the same greenery). I’ve used 2cm aluminium square tube with plastic push in connectors. (Aluminium warehouse on line). The tube cuts easily to size to make a rectangle with 4 castors at the bottom. 9mm MDF will cover the bottom deck to carry stock etc (might as well kill two birds etc) and the left side a sheet of thin aluminium onto which the back scene will bolt. That’s the idea anyway. I realised too late this first one is far too long to get through and swing round the main entrance so now going to have to cut it down a couple feet. Anyone any idea on what to use to support the top deck onto which is just polystyrene scenery. I can only think of MDF as it has to be fairly strong and rigid to support the scenery and help strengthen the trolley.. In my experience mdf is not brilliant for that sort of application. a) it eventually absorbs water and then starts to bow when under any sort of load. I'm looking at a coffee table that has a lower shelf that has done just that. b) It's also very heavy especially when you got o 9mm thickness. I would personally go for a good quality birch ply or blockboard. It might be worth talking to a good timber supplier such as Arnold Laver or whover is in your area and going and looking at what sizes they stock. I used a lot of 10' by 5' sheets of 6mm ply for my layout and they did the cutting for me. I suspect that 6mm ply would do to support the scenery and would use 9mm for the lower level for the stock and associated carp etc. Jamie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted August 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2018 There is so much choice but cos none are the dark green gorse is I end up covering them with scatter. Shame but it works.. https://polakscenics.uk/product/medium-bushes-fine-foliage-oak-green-9315/ Wouldn't the oak green shade have done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2018 If you're using only polystyrene for the scenery, why not use some of the large sheets of insulation polystyrene (with the plastic / aluminium coatings) instead of the MDF for the top layer ? eg :https://www.wickes.co.uk/Kingspan-TW50-Insulation-Board---1200-x-450-x-50mm/p/180440 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Thanks another good idea I’ll pick some sheets up tomorrow. Not really dark enough the oak green but I do try and order that colour first. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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