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Heaton Lodge Junction


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The trestles (guess you'll be needing quite a number!) look like a very neat self-build from lasered ply components - are they a proprietary design or your own?

They were designed by White Rose modelworks and can be adjusted in height at the top via two large plastic wheels. Think they intend to retail them going forward.

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I've never seen switch diamonds modelled before......fantastic work !

 

Lovely layout.

I've travelled over that junction since the 1960's and this has got the Vibe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Switched diamonds were part of the 4mm universal point range of either GEM or Wrenn. I can't remember which. Mind you this is about 50yrs ago!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Old school, but they worked!!

I bet there is an American manufacturer still making them somewhere!

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Lovely layout.

I've travelled over that junction since the 1960's and this has got the Vibe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Switched diamonds were part of the 4mm universal point range of either GEM or Wrenn. I can't remember which. Mind you this is about 50yrs ago!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Old school, but they worked!!

I bet there is an American manufacturer still making them somewhere!

Wrenn's fibre-based track certainly had them.

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A busy couple weeks at work has meant not as much time as I'd have liked working on HL.

 

However, the polysterene banks are now being carved with a hot knife on the 2 newest boards complete with the first junction.

A schoolboy error had me cut two big a slot in the poly for the culvert (see previous threads) to sit into which has meant a load of messing about. Should have the culvert in place and two flights of wooden stairs to a couple of relay boxes done by early next week..

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I've been experimenting with a few products wargamers seem to use in abundance. Reference the earlier posts about brick courses its possible I've discovered to buy individual packs of bricks and breeze blocks in 7mm & 4mm which are going to come in very useful.

 

On another note for puddles (of which there are many on HL) I've previously used scientific slides for microscopes painted a muddy green and laid in DAS clay before a touch of Tamiya acrylic varnish is lightly painted on. This is described in detail in Gordon Gravett's brilliant book. However I've now come across AK Interactive aptly named 'puddles' which works as well if not better and more durable.. drys in a couple hours and is a pre coloured liquid resin. 

Here's some pics..

 

 

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Yep just twisted wire and sprayed with Model Mates Moss green & muddy brown. Bit of AK Interactive's slimy green on there too..

Just realised those particular trees/sapling were made by Paul Bambrick. I know they are twisted wire with a bark covering but what of I'm not sure. Perhaps he'll come on and comment.

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Excellent work on this layout, and steady progress too.  All my trees are all twisted to shape using the 40mm sq 300A flexible battery cable they use on caravans and boats etc.  You can get it in 70mm sq as well, just mail order it in metre lengths on e**y.  Once they are configured, I just hold them upside down outdoors and run liquid cyano zap down the trunk, and it flows in by capillary action.  When dry, either Treemendus bark on the trunk & lower boughs or PVA & sieved soil paste allows a little variety, with chopped brown chinese wig 'hair' in 3 length stages of 12, 8 & 4mm for the outer twigs (fixed with matt clear lacquer aerosol).  Hopefully the attached pic shows the silhouette.

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Excellent work on this layout, and steady progress too.  All my trees are all twisted to shape using the 40mm sq 300A flexible battery cable they use on caravans and boats etc.  You can get it in 70mm sq as well, just mail order it in metre lengths on e**y.  Once they are configured, I just hold them upside down outdoors and run liquid cyano zap down the trunk, and it flows in by capillary action.  When dry, either Treemendus bark on the trunk & lower boughs or PVA & sieved soil paste allows a little variety, with chopped brown chinese wig 'hair' in 3 length stages of 12, 8 & 4mm for the outer twigs (fixed with matt clear lacquer aerosol).  Hopefully the attached pic shows the silhouette.

 

Until I read your text PJ, I thought it was a real tree - ( and still do ! )

 

Cheers.

 

Allan

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Excellent work on this layout, and steady progress too.  All my trees are all twisted to shape using the 40mm sq 300A flexible battery cable they use on caravans and boats etc.  You can get it in 70mm sq as well, just mail order it in metre lengths on e**y.  Once they are configured, I just hold them upside down outdoors and run liquid cyano zap down the trunk, and it flows in by capillary action.  When dry, either Treemendus bark on the trunk & lower boughs or PVA & sieved soil paste allows a little variety, with chopped brown chinese wig 'hair' in 3 length stages of 12, 8 & 4mm for the outer twigs (fixed with matt clear lacquer aerosol).  Hopefully the attached pic shows the silhouette.

Thanks very much for the explanation. That tree looks fabulous!

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Well today all I can say is thank goodness for DAS. Been a lot of civil engineering going on much of the day, the main job was to set into the embankment the storm water culvert and the retaining walls surrounding the bottom of the signal gantry.

The only downside with using a hot knife is if you cut away too much polysterene as I have done, its a right old job getting things back on track. That said...never would I ever consider anything but polysterene for terrain as anything can be set in it - trees, structures you name it..

 

Real thing first then my handiwork..should get this board finished within the week

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Wouldn't go as far as that Allan! Hope you're well?

 

Just been trial fitting the relay box steps, relay boxes themselves and the concrete 'rest' section half way up.

 

I made the steps previously from modified signal box steps cast in whitemetal - the relay boxes are from 10 commandments and the handrails from brass wire superglued into predrilled holes. These were painted 'a steel' colour, the relay boxes a light grey and heavily weathered with precision paints rust and dirty black. Bit of AK pigments on there too..

 

When the DAS hardens I'll secure everything in.

 

Ironically an ex BR engineer I bumped into recently told me the relay boxes and steps only went in about 1995 10 years after the period I'm modelling. I thought about scrapping them but since I'd constructed them they are going in under modellers license.

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Work continues on the structures and setting them into the layout on the two junction boards..

 

The latest is the culvert on the North side which has a vertical retaining wall and a small tunnel type outlet where the stream emerges from the opposite embankment having been carried under the four tracks.

I found a slab of stone wall from 10 Commandments in the materials box and thought I'd give it a crack forming the tunnel/culvert mouth from this. Found out its difficult to cut a shape in the plaster retaining wall and I've have had to smooth out the mouth with DAS. When its dry I'll have a go scribing the stones around the mouth - if it doesn't work I'll remake the whole wall from plywood covered in DAS and scribe the stones into it..

 

For the stream itself I want to show some real depth as on the prototype its about a foot deep on this side. I've tried a few methods including the PVA method but settled on Magic Water which seems to be a clear resin a bit like Woodland Scenic's realistic water. With magic water you can colour it with thinned enamel paints which looked really good when I experimented with it recently.

The actual stream is only about an inch wide on the model but I've cut a Perspex sheet much wider to give me plenty of room to form the banks. This Perspex is sprayed on one side with a greeny/brown colour first with this side down. For shallow water I'd paint on thin layers of Tamiya gloss varnish (as on the culvert on the opposite bank).

This side I'm going to use silicone sealant and plywood to create the stream and pour in the resin in layers to about 1cm deep. There will be all sorts of rubbish planted in here, the odd oil barrel, some bricks and an old bike.

I'll update when it all goes to plan (or not) :)

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

post-25007-0-47482700-1491674239_thumb.jpgI've been itching to crack on with these 2 boards & thankfully I've a week off now to finish them..

 

So, I've ditched the previous posts attempt at modifying a precast wall - wasn't happy with it so cut the rough shape from plywood and covered the lot in a thin layer of DAS on top of a coat of PVA.

Once dry I carved with the basic rough stones with the end of a screwdriver. Then painstakingly added a blob of DAS to each larger stone to replicate the jutting out pieces of really rough stone before leaving another night to dry.

Next day I've filed these 'blobs' then covered the whole wall with a wash of watercolours in neutral greys.

The capping stones are plastikard cut to shape and covered with DAS then filed to shape.

 

To detail I used model mates moss green and dribbled some Tamiya gloss acrylic varnish down the stones..

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Here is the culvert wall/mouth with added detail such as slivers of polythene wrapped round the culvert bars. The stuff gets everywhere even in trees and bushes.

The bars are simply brass rod cut to size and painted a rust colour before being drilled into the culvert mouth.

 

Although you can see I've prepared the stream bed to a point I've decided to use woodland scenics realistic water tinted with acrylic paint to mimic the muddy green water. I'm going to pour this to about 1cm depth - hopefully it will be transclucent letting the stream bed detail be seen..

 

Lots of junk - tyres, bricks etc this side of the line. I couldn't access the real place without risking life and limb so had my mate with a drone fly it over and take some close ups from 100ft or so. What would we do without technology :)

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