Upcoming O gauge sale - End of the line at Marsh Lane

[Jintyman]

Hi Brian,

Interesting background - I've been seriously thinking about getting one of those WWS static grass applicators - they seem one of the best around.  More food for thought!

 

Rich

 

 

I have one of the smaller WWS applicators and I did my photo plank with it. Both the applicator and the grasses used from WWS have been outstanding.

I've also used some shorter grasses from Woodland Scenics.

 

Jinty

[PjKing1]

Paul,

You had more luck than I did, I tried to make my own from a bug killer and it was utterly useless!

Maybe I'll try again...

Best

Simon

 

Warning: Unknown: 1 result set(s) not freed. Use mysql_free_result to free result sets which were requested using mysql_query() in Unknown on line 0

 

Worth trying again Simon as it does save a few pennies

 

Cheers

[Simond]

Thanks Paul,

 

Im a bit worried about that warning tho'.

 

Best

Simon

[PjKing1]

Thanks Paul,

Im a bit worried about that warning tho'.

Best

Simon

 

Warning: Unknown: 1 result set(s) not freed. Use mysql_free_result to free result sets which were requested using mysql_query() in Unknown on line 0

 

Haha me to duno what that's about

[MarshLane]

 

Warning: Unknown: 1 result set(s) not freed. Use mysql_free_result to free result sets which were requested using mysql_query() in Unknown on line 0

 

Haha me to duno what that's about

 

 

Looks like the database had a blip!  Did you reply with a previous quote Paul?  

 

Rich

[Simond]

I think he's making a habit of it...

[MarshLane]

Evening all,

Well, for those following the Arksey thread (see signature) over on the Layout Topics section, will know that the baseboards for Arksey have come together well and the trackwork is now going down.  Can I at this point, say thanks to all of those who offered thoughts and advice on my first track making attempts last year, this is coming together a little easier because of it - thank you.

 

I'd hoped to get a bit more work done on the first of two points today, but work and rain prevented that. Instead I've had a couple of hours tonight and almost finished the NE brake van that I started a few months back.  Just needs a little bit of detailing (roof ventilators, one set of footsteps and handrails adding) before painting, although I think the painting will take place before the handrails are fixed in for obvious reasons!  Like the trackwork, this is the first plastic kit I've built, and I've been quite excited by how its all come out.  Also have some work to do to make the roof sit flat, its up slightly at one end.

 

 

 

 

 

This will probably gain bauxite livery, but with NCB markings to work on Arksey.  Next up is another Slaters plastic kit - this time a 12-ton box van, that is likely to become a plate layers van for Arksey.

 

Oh, and I've realised I should have 'blackened' the hook and chain before fitting, so they are going to have to come off again to allow that to happen!  Anyone any suggestions on the best paints, or the best way to paint these kits?

 

Rich

 

PS - Just one more as I'm so pleased with it   This is where it stands at the moment...

[brossard]

This is a very good kit Rich, although the brake rigging took me a bit of mental gymnastics to sort out.

 

If the van is to be BR era, if bauxite it would need to be either fitted or through piped.  I see you have use the three links and I think you would either need instanter or screw links in that case.

 

My van is here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/115631-building-a-parkside-7mm-lner-toad-e/

 

John

[Simond]

Re the blacking of metal components - there are a number of chemical products specially for this. Birchwood Casey is a name often recommended, I have a bottle of their "Brass Black", works well. I have a bottle of "G96 Gun Blue" which works very well on steel.

 

These do the job very well, but they are toxic, so read the instructions and don't poison yourself!

 

Best

Simon

[MarshLane]

This is a very good kit Rich, although the brake rigging took me a bit of mental gymnastics to sort out.

 

If the van is to be BR era, if bauxite it would need to be either fitted or through piped.  I see you have use the three links and I think you would either need instanter or screw links in that case.

 

My van is here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/115631-building-a-parkside-7mm-lner-toad-e/

 

John

 

Hi John,

Yes I'd agree with that comment entirely!  The brake rigging took some sorting out for me too!  Im thinking this one may be through piped, but I'm working on the basis that its a former NE van that at some point in the past - the reasons for which appear to have been lost in the midst of time! - has transferred to the NCB for use on the Arksey Colliery Railway, much of which runs unbraked! Well thats my back story anyway!

 

I like the way you've built and painted your van.  Its the same as always, two people approach these things from different viewpoints and different aspects or ways of construction come to light.  I'm going to do another one or two of these, so will be including a couple of your ways of building along the way!  Nice weathered outcome for you tho.

 

Re the blacking of metal components - there are a number of chemical products specially for this. Birchwood Casey is a name often recommended, I have a bottle of their "Brass Black", works well. I have a bottle of "G96 Gun Blue" which works very well on steel.

 

These do the job very well, but they are toxic, so read the instructions and don't poison yourself!

 

Best

Simon

 

 

Hi Simon,

Thanks for that - and for the health warning! - I do need to get a bottle of their Brass Black - do you know where its obtainable from?

 

Rich

[MarshLane]

Forgot to mention on last night's update, the ES1 NER electric loco kit should arrive shortly from Judith Edge Kits, and I've ordered the motor, gearbox and chain drive from Branchlines this morning, so the next instalment in my adventures with kits is on the horizon - although I think this Slaters box van will get built first!

 

Rich

[brossard]

Thanks for those words Rich, yes there is no one way to build a kit.  As long as the final result meets your expectations it's a winner.  This was my first 7mm kit, so a bit shaky in places.  In Geoff Kent's "The 4mm Wagon" there is some info on these as well a few pictures.  I can't put my hands on my copy at the moment.

 

Most pictures that I have seen of this van are unfitted.  There is one on Paul B's site of a Departmental van with through pipes.  A google search will show up some info.

 

I use a lot of Carr's blackening solutions.  This gives the metal a nice patina I think.  One of the first things I do now (lesson learned) is to take the wheels off their axles, gather the metal parts (Slaters have rather a lot) and give them a bath.  I also then paint the wheels with a grungy black/dirt/rust colour before installing.  I did buy some gun blue but have yet to try it.

 

John

[3 link]

Hi Rich,

 

Regarding the twisted roof, find a tin of beans/soup or whatever is roughly the same circumference as the roof then wrap the roof around the tin fairly tight with elastic bands or string then place in hot water for a few minutes, job done.

 

I also see there are some small gaps in the corners, these can be filled with Milliput or similar, best to do it now before you put on the primer coat, then once sprayed you can then see if it needs anymore filler as the primer will highlight any problems.

 

HTH,

 

Martyn.

[MarshLane]

Thanks for those words Rich, yes there is no one way to build a kit.  As long as the final result meets your expectations it's a winner.  This was my first 7mm kit, so a bit shaky in places.  In Geoff Kent's "The 4mm Wagon" there is some info on these as well a few pictures.  I can't put my hands on my copy at the moment.

 

Most pictures that I have seen of this van are unfitted.  There is one on Paul B's site of a Departmental van with through pipes.  A google search will show up some info.

 

I use a lot of Carr's blackening solutions.  This gives the metal a nice patina I think.  One of the first things I do now (lesson learned) is to take the wheels off their axles, gather the metal parts (Slaters have rather a lot) and give them a bath.  I also then paint the wheels with a grungy black/dirt/rust colour before installing.  I did buy some gun blue but have yet to try it.

 

John

 

Hi John,

I'll go with unfitted in that case I think.  Seems to be a good starter for kitbuilding, just wish the detail on the underside was explained a bit better!  Thanks for the background on the weathering, thats useful, something I've not attempted yet.

 

Hi Rich,

 

Regarding the twisted roof, find a tin of beans/soup or whatever is roughly the same circumference as the roof then wrap the roof around the tin fairly tight with elastic bands or string then place in hot water for a few minutes, job done.

 

I also see there are some small gaps in the corners, these can be filled with Milliput or similar, best to do it now before you put on the primer coat, then once sprayed you can then see if it needs anymore filler as the primer will highlight any problems.

 

HTH,

 

Martyn.

 

 

Hi Martyn,

Thanks of the advice, thats a great tip!  To be honest, I don't think its twisted, its more the internal door I haven't got spot on, and I think its resting on the inside cabin roof (which is deeper on the roof section than the veranda's) so it needs a little rub with some sandpaper, which should sort it.  It doesn't matter which end you get flat, the other is always sat proud - and looks to be because of the same reason.  But if that doesn't work, ill give the soup tin a try!

 

Yes, I need to get hold of some Milliput, thanks for the reminder, thats great.

 

Rich

[3 link]

Hi Rich,

 

I would say around 40% of the kits I have built have usually got a slight twist in the roof and most just need holding down while the glue sets.

 

I usually dry fit each piece before applying any glue, I personally recommend Mek Pak. You can apply it with a small brush and it goes off very quickly, not as fast as super glue but it gives you time to do any final adjustments before it sets and also a bottle of the stuff goes along way. It's what I also use to glue the chairs to the sleeper.

 

Martyn.

[brossard]

Don't know what kits you mean Martyn.  My experience with both Parkside and Slaters kits is that the roofs are well shaped and go on without fuss.  Mind you mine were bought recently.  If there is a twist it is only very slight, certainly no need to raid the larder for soup tins, although that is a good tip.  My preference is to use a gel plastic cement (carefully) to get things positioned and follow up with liquid solvent.

 

Rich, you might want to shave the tops of the inner ends to ensure no interference with the roof.

 

John

[Simond]

If you're following Martyn's advice re the bean tins, my suggestion is to use a pair of Madame's laddered tights rather than string, to hold them to the former. This avoids any nasty marks caused by overzealous tightening of the string, and boiling hot water.

 

I have a rather nice tin, which once contained a bottle of something tasty, probably brandy, which is perfect for roof forming from sheet material, I guess also for roof corrections. The old pairs of tights get dried, and kept inside for next time.

 

Best

Simon

[Jintyman]

 

Thanks for that - and for the health warning! - I do need to get a bottle of their Brass Black - do you know where its obtainable from?

 

Rich

 

 

I buy Casey's Gun Blue for steel and Casey's Brass Black from my local Gun shop.

About £8 per bottle of each, but as Simon says (that used to be a game when I was growing up), careful as it is potent stuff.

I apply with a cotton bud after really cleaning the area, and once I've got the blackening I want, I give the item a thorough washing in warm soapy water.

 

Jinty

[3 link]

I have just been using some Birchwood Casey on my 08 to get rid of those horrid shiney wheels, work in progress by the way.

 

 

Martyn.

 

Ps:- sorry for the quality of the picture, taken on an iPad in poor light.

Edited March 7, 2017 by 3 link

[MarshLane]

Hi Martyn,

Very nice! Look forward to seeing the rest of it!

 

Rich

[mervyn]

I presume this gun black did you use matt or gloss or a combination of both? great effect on those wheels!

[3 link]

I presume this gun black did you use matt or gloss or a combination of both? great effect on those wheels!

Hi Mervin,

 

The gun black is just the normal Birchwood Casey " Perma Blue Paste Gun Blue " that I also use on my two shotguns, believe it or not : )

 

I then used Humbrol enamels, 4 parts Matt Black 33, 2 parts Matt Brown 113, and one part a mix of the two gunmetals, Gunmetal 53 and Metalcote Gunmetal 27004, this is not my personal mixture but a tip from one of the masters Martyn Welch. Once the paint has been applied and it has hardened, if you polish with a cotton brush it will bring out that shine on the wheels and any other parts that you want to enhance.

 

The blackening is really just to dull down the wheel treads, and also it seems to help protect the rims from scratches.

 

To be honest that picture was taken in bad light from my iPad, when I get time I will take some more and hopefully it will highlight the detail better.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

Edited March 9, 2017 by 3 link

[81A Oldoak]

Hi Mervin,

 

I used Humbrol enamels, 4 parts Matt Black 33, 2 parts Matt Brown 113, and one part a mix of the two gunmetals, Gunmetal 53 and Metalcote Gunmetal 27004, this is not my personal mixture but a tip from one of the masters Martyn Welch. Once the paint has been applied and it has hardened, if you polish with a cotton brush it will bring out that shine on the wheels and any other parts that you want to enhance.

 

To be honest that picture was taken in bad light from my iPad, when I get time I will take some more and hopefully it will highlight the detail better.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

The Humbrol Metalcote enamel paints are excellent and I find the Gunmetal shade especially useful. It was used on the wheels and rods of my Minerva Victory 0-6-0T.

[3 link]

The Humbrol Metalcote enamel paints are excellent and I find the Gunmetal shade especially useful. It was used on the wheels and rods of my Minerva Victory 0-6-0T.

Hi Chris,

 

I do love the " chunky " look of that tank loco of yours, are you thinking of bringing out the GWR version as I am so tempted after drooling over the above.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

[81A Oldoak]

Hi Chris,

 

I do love the " chunky " look of that tank loco of yours, are you thinking of bringing out the GWR version as I am so tempted after drooling over the above.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

Martyn,

We are producing a conversion kit of etched and cast parts to convert the model to the GWR/BR versions. We should have had the test-etch at Kettering, but the etcher had run out of metal. Stay tuned for sitreps.

 

Regards,

 

Chris