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Upcoming O gauge sale - End of the line at Marsh Lane

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Or go lightweight. The jury’s still out on my PD baseboards, because they’re only 2 years old, but seem ok so far...

 

A box girder running the length, with legs on cantilevers. Top surface of 4mm ply on 30 x 10 stripwood (on edge) with a deep pelmet around the edges. All glued & screwed. I’ve not had any issues yet.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=2346039

 

 

9mm ply is “gold standard” however, but. heavier and more expensive.

 

Whatever you choose, I’d recommend mounting it all on castors. Being able to pull it out from the wall has been a huge advantage, even if I do have to move loads of other furniture and engage the services of family members.

 

Best

Simon

Edited by Simond
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Afternoon all,

Thanks for the comments and thoughts...

 

Maybe use an open framed approach using 9mm ply for the formers and the track bed. Built correctly it should certainly be strong enough, and shouldn't be that heavy. Certainly lighter than chipboard with 2" x 1" softwood framework.

The formers could also have holes cut into them to lighten more if required. It's really how light do you want it, without sacrificing strength.

 

3 posts in a couple of days, I'd have a lay down if I were you.  :jester:

 

MJinty ;)

 

Cheers Minty ... I know it just got to much for me yesterday, I did have to go lie down!  Woke up three hours later  :onthequiet:

 

Given that the proposed station area (upper level) is going to be on top of the fiddle yard (lower level) then im keen to try and keep it as light as possible, but it needs to be strong for obvious reasons.  The idea about 9mm ply formers with holes in them could be an option.

 

 

No 1 = NOT Chipboard, it's heavy and swells with temperature change.

 

No 2 = Not 2 x 1 from a DIY Store, it warps.

 

No 3 = Not MDF, same reasons as chipboard.

 

My preferred choice is 9mm Ply for the top and sides, with about 3 inch deep sides and blocks to support the Ply top that cant warp.

 

Thanks Andy.  I know chipboard isn't the ideal or recommended, but its been down on the baseboard level for about eight years, and hasn't moved, warped or anything yet!  So for cost grounds, that will likely stay, it seems to be solid and ok.  But I've taken your advice on board (as I always do!) in terms of building the baseboard for the upper level.

 

 

Or go lightweight. The jury’s still out on my PD baseboards, because they’re only 2 years old, but seem ok so far...

A box girder running the length, with legs on cantilevers. Top surface of 4mm ply on 30 x 10 stripwood (on edge) with a deep pelmet around the edges. All glued & screwed. I’ve not had any issues yet.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=2346039


9mm ply is “gold standard” however, but. heavier and more expensive.

Whatever you choose, I’d recommend mounting it all on castors. Being able to pull it out from the wall has been a huge advantage, even if I do have to move loads of other furniture and engage the services of family members.

Best
Simon

 

 

Thanks Simon.  Im impressed with your stripwood batterns! That looks very secure, I presume the boards/battern's haven't had any tendency to 'droop' either side of that central beam when you've had locos sat on them for a while?

 

Rich

Edited by MarshLane
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So far, no issues. I’ve just cut a whopping great hole in the cross-bars to recess the loco shed pits into, so that will have weakened things somewhat, but it all seems fine. If I needed to, I could fit diagonal braces (as I did either side of the turntable) to shore things up, but I’m optimistic that it won’t be necessary, particularly at the front as it would show.

 

The cross bars are approx 300mm centres, so the ply is well supported. Nothing moves, though i5 might be a bi5 noisy if I were running trains, rather than locos, around - it might benefit from a foam trackbed to prevent drumming.

 

4mm ply is quite stiff - you do need to get good quality stuff, not a couple of thin veneers separated by good intentions, but if you support it well, I doubt there would be any issues. Whilst you really don’t want issues, I do wonder if we sometimes build layouts to last several lifetimes!

 

Best

Simon

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Hi Simon,

 

A box girder running the length, with legs on cantilevers. Top surface of 4mm ply on 30 x 10 stripwood (on edge) with a deep pelmet around the edges. All glued & screwed. I’ve not had any issues yet.
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=2346039

Whatever you choose, I’d recommend mounting it all on castors. Being able to pull it out from the wall has been a huge advantage, even if I do have to move loads of other furniture and engage the services of family members.

 

Casters would be nice, but the only space I have is in the loft, sheds and rebuilding the garage have been explored, but all stumbled for various reasons. So its the loft or nothing!  Can I confirm the strip wood that is 30mm x 10mm?

 

So far, no issues. I’ve just cut a whopping great hole in the cross-bars to recess the loco shed pits into, so that will have weakened things somewhat, but it all seems fine. If I needed to, I could fit diagonal braces (as I did either side of the turntable) to shore things up, but I’m optimistic that it won’t be necessary, particularly at the front as it would show.

The cross bars are approx 300mm centres, so the ply is well supported. Nothing moves, though i5 might be a bi5 noisy if I were running trains, rather than locos, around - it might benefit from a foam trackbed to prevent drumming.

4mm ply is quite stiff - you do need to get good quality stuff, not a couple of thin veneers separated by good intentions, but if you support it well, I doubt there would be any issues. Whilst you really don’t want issues, I do wonder if we sometimes build layouts to last several lifetimes!

Best
Simon

 

 

Yes we probably do!  But there again, better to be like that than failing after a couple of years when handmade track and scenery is down!  I normally lay track on to cork so that should help with the noise level I would have thought.

 

Rich

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WOTS this then, ANOTHER POST????? :no:  :no:  :no:  :no:  :no:  :sungum:

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Rich,

 

I’m pretty sure, 30 high, 10 wide, will measure it tomorrow & confirm.

 

Best

Simon

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WOTS this then, ANOTHER POST????? :no:  :no:  :no:  :no:  :no:  :sungum:

 

 

Oh I no ... I am going to have to see the GP for pills I think!  :no:  :onthequiet:   I did feel faint after writing it ... could have been the heat in the room tho!

 

Not sure which is worse, yet another post ... or having to relearn Templot for whats on the horizon!

 

Rich

 

PS Nice to see your sarcasm and sense of humour still abounds Andy  :onthequiet:

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Well I’ve had a four day break from posting to recover! Bit of an update for those following, after many months of indecision caused by issues over layout location, heat, family, work the list goes on and on, I’ve finally got my interest level back to where it needs to be, thanks to a good mate of mine from the South Coast. He kept pushing me to come down and have a go with his layout, and I’ll admit it has done the trick!!

Still working in Templot in what I am going to do, and will reveal all (good god,what an awful thought!) once some of the track is down. I am staying based around the early-mid 1980s based in the North West, so BR blue will rein supreme. I am hoping that once the track is down JonF of this parish will be willing to sort the semaphore signals out, but that is someway down the road. But things are moving forward, and Laurie at MM1 has kindly dispatched 40 sets of point tie-bars with amazing haste! Thanks to him, I hope everything he is doing works for him.

The take away from that is that while the fiddle Yard will likely be Peco, some Marcway and a couple of hand built points, the scenic section will be all hand-built track, drawing on the cock-ups, I mean experience, gained last year. It’s not going to be fast, but if I can get something running before winter, that will be good!

In the meantime, as a thanks to the 45 odd people that follow this thread, and the 500+ that have looked at my recent minor waffling, some pics of my mates layout to enjoy!

Rich

 

EDIT: Corrected image orientation.

 

post-16721-0-86045500-1533934496_thumb.jpeg

post-16721-0-42687100-1533933873_thumb.jpeg

post-16721-0-66425800-1533933901_thumb.jpeg
 

post-16721-0-31237200-1533934512_thumb.jpeg

Edited by MarshLane
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Well I’ve had a four day break from posting to recover! Bit of an update for those following, after many months of indecision caused by issues over layout location, heat, family, work the list goes on and on, I’ve finally got my interest level back to where it needs to be, thanks to a good mate of mine from the South Coast. He kept pushing me to come down and have a go with his layout, and I’ll admit it has done the trick!!

 

Still working in Templot in what I am going to do, and will reveal all (good god,what an awful thought!) once some of the track is down. I am staying based around the early-mid 1980s based in the North West, so BR blue will rein supreme. I am hoping that once the track is down JonF of this parish will be willing to sort the semaphore signals out, but that is someway down the road. But things are moving forward, and Laurie at MM1 has kindly dispatched 40 sets of point tie-bars with amazing haste! Thanks to him, I hope everything he is doing works for him.

 

The take away from that is that while the fiddle Yard will likely be Peco, some Marcway and a couple of hand built points, the scenic section will be all hand-built track, drawing on the cock-ups, I mean experience, gained last year. It’s not going to be fast, but if I can get something running before winter, that will be good!

 

In the meantime, as a thanks to the 45 odd that follow this thread, and the 500plus that have looked at my recent minor waffling, some pics of my mates layout to enjoy!

 

Rich

 

attachicon.gifB9446B77-2274-43F4-8955-50A898104A39.jpeg

 

attachicon.gifDED83D27-4128-4966-A5CE-70F53BB69A0B.jpeg

 

attachicon.gifF7B91151-8ED8-4B91-84D8-3744C17A98F9.jpeg

 

attachicon.gif30CA2700-A6B9-46B6-98F0-B14B4B348CE6.jpeg

 

Hope you don't mind Rich...

 

post-20303-0-31457800-1533934178.jpeg

 

post-20303-0-79751800-1533934191.jpeg

 

G

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Hope you don't mind Rich...

 

G

 

 

Haha! You must have posted that at the same time as I was editing mine!  No problem at all, thanks for doing it.  All four were taken on the iPhone and I posted the message of the iPad.  Then had to find them on Photos on the Mac and reupload from the computer to get them the right way up!

 

Thanks tho bgman, very kind of you.

 

Rich

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Haha! You must have posted that at the same time as I was editing mine!  No problem at all, thanks for doing it.  All four were taken on the iPhone and I posted the message of the iPad.  Then had to find them on Photos on the Mac and reupload from the computer to get them the right way up!

 

Thanks tho bgman, very kind of you.

 

Rich

 

 

I have a similar problem too Rich, its an Apple thing !

 

Pleased to hear you've got your interest back, its just one of those things we probably all go through from time to time.

 

Grahame

 

p.s. When it goes wrong with the photographs on my iPhone what I've tended to do is take a screen shot, edit it then hey presto! it loads as it should be seen. Its a PITA but helps to post them eventually.

Edited by bgman

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Chaps a couple of quick questions.

 

Where single and double slips are concerned, what is considered to be Normal or Reverse in terms of the operation.  Is it treated like pointwork - always "Normal" when set for the main route, and "Reverse" when changing to the branch?

 

Also, in terms of O gauge, what is the best supplier/manufactuer/thing to use, for point rodding and signal wires, and does anyone do a 3D print, resin or or white metal (or similar) recreation of a facing point lock for 1960s/1970s point motor?

 

Rich

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Chaps a couple of quick questions.

 

Where single and double slips are concerned, what is considered to be Normal or Reverse in terms of the operation.  Is it treated like pointwork - always "Normal" when set for the main route, and "Reverse" when changing to the branch?

 

Also, in terms of O gauge, what is the best supplier/manufactuer/thing to use, for point rodding and signal wires, and does anyone do a 3D print, resin or or white metal (or similar) recreation of a facing point lock for 1960s/1970s point motor?

 

Rich

I bought some O Gauge Point Rodding for Pen Y Bont from Wizard Models, , it seems quite good.

post-9335-0-91825900-1534002990_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-77696600-1534003165_thumb.jpg

I used left over WILLS OO Gauge Rodding for the turn in and under bits.

 

BTW You haven't got a spare Blue 37 you want to sell have you Rich?

Edited by Andrew P
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Hi Rich,

Modelu do 3D printed point rodding bits. along with some very nice 7mm figures.

 

Cheers Peter.

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I bought some O Gauge Point Rodding for Pen Y Bont from Wizard Models, , it seems quite good.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif003.JPG

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif002.JPG

I used left over WILLS OO Gauge Rodding for the turn in and under bits.

 

BTW You haven't got a spare Blue 37 you want to sell have you Rich?

Thanks Andy,

That looks good! Interesting how you cannot differentiate between the 4mm and 7mm items in the pics.

 

On the 37 front, I don’t sorry Andy! Have three here, but all part of the new plan! Have you thought about going for an RfD or green one and doing a repaint? Two if my blue ones were originally green!

 

 

Hi Rich,

Modelu do 3D printed point rodding bits. along with some very nice 7mm figures.

 

Cheers Peter.

Thanks Peter. I knew about ModelU figures, but didn’t realise that they did things like point rodding bits. Need to have a look! I am a bit of a way off needing them yet, but wanted to make sure things like spacing is right!

 

Rich

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Evening all,

A quick question on DCC decoders - I am looking to fit a flashing tail lamp (with a ModelU body) to one end of a Heljan CargoWagon, so am looking for a cheap function only decoder - is a TCS FL2 still one of the best?  If so, does anyone have any suggestions on where to acquire them?

 

Things on the layout are still moving forward, my initial recent plans for a busy main line location went awry because of issues with the radius of curves being just too tight to be practicable, but I am currently testing out an alternative option, revolving around a double track main line scenario - more details once I've nailed the track plan and have started work on laying the fiddle yard.  I'll probably keep this thread as a workbench/work in progress thread, and create a new thread for the layout.

 

Rich

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Evening all,

Well, yesterday's query about a function only decoder remains if anyone has any answers?

 

Spent a bit of time this afternoon, on physical planning for the new layout, and in the process did a few stock images that I thought people may like to see - nothing particularly interesting at this point but it does show off some of the stock! Lots of wagon weathering to do yet as you can see. These are just quick shots on thee iPhone.

 

Actual trackwork for the new layout will be handbuilt, except in the out of sight and fiddle yard areas where I am going to use some Peco that I already have for speed.  All locos, wagons and those vehicles on the outer ends of fixed rakes are going to be fitted with Dingham couplings - I've sent for a fret having experienced then on Rod's 'West Kirby Town' layout.

 

post-16721-0-90556800-1535139419_thumb.jpg

 

post-16721-0-62314000-1535139448_thumb.jpg

 

post-16721-0-29348800-1535139533_thumb.jpg

 

post-16721-0-49597500-1535139625_thumb.jpg

 

post-16721-0-52955500-1535139646_thumb.jpg

 

post-16721-0-68601400-1535139664_thumb.jpg

 

Just need to clear the existing baseboards now, and work can start on sorting the lower level fiddle yard out.

 

Rich

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Very nice selection mate.

 

Is that a Jinty weathering on the VAA?

Edited by Andrew P

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Very nice selection mate.

 

Is that a Jinty weathering on the VAA?

 

 

Hi Andy,

It certainly is :). Along with two OAAs that Jinty did ...another batch needs to head his way, which reminds me I need to email Jinty and rail operations for a movement path!!

 

Rich

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Hi Rich,

 

I use the Modelu rodding stools, the ones I use are the WR Reading type with MSE components 7mm square rodding. I also use MSE's crank etch for the cranks, compensators and pulleys.

 

I've only done a bit on Talyllyn alongside platform 2 , but here are a couple of piccys:

 

 

 

post-14906-0-03436000-1535145963_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-14906-0-56891200-1535145997_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

I thought I'd heard my name taken in vain!!!!!

 

Regards all

Jinty  ;)

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Hi Andy,

It certainly is :). Along with two OAAs that Jinty did ...another batch needs to head his way, which reminds me I need to email Jinty and rail operations for a movement path!!

 

Rich

Think you'll find there is a queue now, he has enough work to give up the day job, hahah

Edited by Andrew P

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Hi Rich,

 

I use the Modelu rodding stools, the ones I use are the WR Reading type with MSE components 7mm square rodding. I also use MSE's crank etch for the cranks, compensators and pulleys.

 

I've only done a bit on Talyllyn alongside platform 2 , but here are a couple of piccys:

 

 

 

Tally 281.jpg

 

 

Tally 284.jpg

 

 

 

I thought I'd heard my name taken in vain!!!!!

 

Regards all

Jinty https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_wink3.gif

Thanks Jinty,

I’ll bear those in mind. Like the brass cranks, very good!

 

Hope all is well with you.

 

Rich

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Think you'll find there is a queue now, he has enough work to give up the day job, hahah

Oh you mean the rumours that Talyllyn Junction was just 600yards from that beach in the South of France aren’t true??!!

 

Doesn’t surprise me Jinty is a master at vehicle weathering (among other things!) wish I had that talent.

 

Rich

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Evening all,

Well, yesterday's query about a function only decoder remains if anyone has any answers?

 

 

Rich,

 

I have got several of these LAIS function-only decoders from Ebay (from UK seller bwtechnicalservices) to operate lights inside pull-push coaches:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laisdcc-4-function-output-only-dcc-decoder-ideal-for-lighting-signals/192617037197?epid=1875293340&hash=item2cd8debd8d:g:sBAAAOSwWiNaoZM3

 

I've not had chance to test them out yet, but they do get positive comments elsewhere.

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I’ve used a L

Rich,

 

I have got several of these LAIS function-only decoders from Ebay (from UK seller bwtechnicalservices) to operate lights inside pull-push coaches:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laisdcc-4-function-output-only-dcc-decoder-ideal-for-lighting-signals/192617037197?epid=1875293340&hash=item2cd8debd8d:g:sBAAAOSwWiNaoZM3

 

I've not had chance to test them out yet, but they do get positive comments elsewhere.

Hi Rich

 

Love the point rodding, fantastic level of detail.

 

I’ve used a Lais function only decoder for lights on a DBSO, also from eBay. Did what I needed it to do (turn lights on and off) so I was happy with it.

 

Cheers

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