Chris Dark Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Hi All, I recently recieved all the kit I needed to convert a loco to radio control as I am intrested in testing. The items I recieved were: Tx22 controller Tx2 Transmitter Rx65-22 Reciever Along with an up/down regulator and charging kit. The problems I have come across is the direction switch doesn't seem to have any input, althought sometimes nothing happens unless it is either side off central. Second issue is the inertia input doesn't seem to change anything. The motor control doesn't seem too smooth either, often being quite jerky or taking a while to start (after having a whining noise for a few seconds) Of course this may just been the engine but thought I would mention it. I do have a bind plug which I am not sure whether this is required or not? I am 100% new to this, I have looked on the deltang website but I don't really understand it. I wasn't expecting the gift so it has caught me off guard. If anybody has come across this or knows a good place to start please let me know Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallen Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Hi Chris, glad you have decided to have a go at radio control! I will try to answer your questions. First the bind plug, you do not need this to bind the receiver as the TX 22 has a bind button whch does the same thing. You would probably need it for the TX2. Second, the direction switch. The receivers can be set up either as a centre off speed control, which is controlled just by the big knob in the middle of the TX22, or as "zero to full speed" on the knob with direction controlled by the switch. Usually the receivers for use with the TX22 are set up for centre off control, as this is easier to use with the selecta system, and so the "direction" switch is not used to control motor direction and can be used to control other things like lights. This may explain why it does not seem to do anything. The inertia control works by altering the rate the TX updates the speed setting on the receiver. If the inertia is off, the TX updates the receiver immediately and the loco responds imediately too. As the inertia is increased, the receiver responds more slowly. So setting off from a standing start the loco will not move straight away and will start after a short delay and gradually gather speed. Depending on the loco and the setting of the receiver, it may also buzz or whine whilst this happens, this buzz is the frequency of the pulses the receiver puts out to control the loco. I myself do not use the inertia setting as I find it confusing, but other people find it very realistic. So I suggest you start off with the inertia control turned off, and then try adding some inertia and see what you think. Hope this helps. Frank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Hi Frank, thanks very much for your reply, very useful and thank you for breaking each part down. I am away tomorrow but will have a play on Sunday and see. In regards to the inertia i was aware that that "reaction" time of the loco motor is effected but it currently does not seem to make a noticable difference. I will also oil the motor as this may help the stuttering movement. Have you experienced poor motor control whilst using battery power? Thanks again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Hi Frank, thanks very much for your reply, very useful and thank you for breaking each part down. I am away tomorrow but will have a play on Sunday and see. In regards to the inertia i was aware that that "reaction" time of the loco motor is effected but it currently does not seem to make a noticable difference. I will also oil the motor as this may help the stuttering movement. Have you experienced poor motor control whilst using battery power? Thanks again I would think the loco should not be making any noises generated by the Rx 65-22 as the pulse width modulation (PWM) of the Rx should be set to the default of 16Khz, that is 16 thousand cycles per second. In my experience the inertia knob on the Tx-22 makes a noticeable difference but I normally leave it switched off as I prefer to drive my trains directly. It would help if we knew the make and model of the locomotive as it would help in identifying the problems. ps - it will all work eventually, honest!. I have almost 30 locos converted and am happy with the results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 I am happy to report all seems well. I am embarressed to say after making a check of the contoller my first job, I found the connection between the inertia and transmiter had fallen off. I havn't tested it on track but works very nicely on the rolling road. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 A quick update on this... Once I moved from the rolling road the Loco (which is Lord Beverbrook from 1997) wasn't as smooth at low running. It seems the extra resistance of running on rails requires more power.... I have now moved the receiver and connections to a new engine Pitchford Hall (2007?) which does seem to run better on rails. What I have noticed though is before the loco starts moving the motor (but not the wheels) move about 25% turn, like it is taking up some slack, before it turns again and starts to move off. It still isn't as smooth as I expected but is an improvement. I was wondering if the "slack" is normal and also if there are any tips to a smoother running motor. As the electrical supply should be a constant from the battery I can only assume the running of the loco is 100% down to the motor? I have oiled it as per the instructions which did help slightly.. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 That quarter turn is due to slack in the drive train but that should not result in the loco having unsmooth running. The Deltang Rx delivers pulse width modulated DC at 16Khz frequency and in my experience does not vary from the throttle setting in any way I can see. All my locos are smooth runners but have different start voltages. The motor needs to overcome 'stiction' before the loco moves so as you turn up the throttle the voltage increases until stiction is overcome and the loco moves. Erratic running is most likely down to drive train issues. with second hand locos also clean the motor commutator with isopropyl alcohol if you can get at it. I had a second hand Bachmann 2MT 2-6-0 which was awful until I cleaned the commutator etc, flooding it with IPA. It now runs like a dream. ps- did you remove the wheel electrical pickups? You don' need them and they just cause drag. pps - my latest conversion, a Hornby smokey joe 0-4-0 had some 'kangeroo' effect when running. close examination and testing fixed it. the reason was some binding on one of the connecting rods, a very slight bending of the rod was the cure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 Thanks for your help and advice Dave. The slack is something I noticed as I have been running the loco with the body off but as your suggest it sounds standard so i'm not fussed by that. I have looked into stiction (firstly to see what it was ) I found that my old second hand Hornby loco, with it's plastic 'shell' had a big lump of wieght added over the driving wheels, This loco does seem to suffer from less stiction that my new Hall which has a heavier metal body but no added weight, apart from what is in the tender. I wonder if adding some led where the DCC chip went will reduce the stiction. Is this something you have come across? It's a big learning curve but all good fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Thanks for your help and advice Dave. The slack is something I noticed as I have been running the loco with the body off but as your suggest it sounds standard so i'm not fussed by that. I have looked into stiction (firstly to see what it was ) I found that my old second hand Hornby loco, with it's plastic 'shell' had a big lump of wieght added over the driving wheels, This loco does seem to suffer from less stiction that my new Hall which has a heavier metal body but no added weight, apart from what is in the tender. I wonder if adding some led where the DCC chip went will reduce the stiction. Is this something you have come across? It's a big learning curve but all good fun. Hi Chris What colour is the led going to be?? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dark Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 I was going to find a grey one to match the lead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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