Jump to content
 

Mike Trice's Shapeways Shop - NER vents/lamps, V2/J50 upgrade kits now available


MikeTrice
 Share

Recommended Posts

Reducing the mounting pin diameter to 1.5mm seems to have passed Shapeway's automatic model tests so on that basis I have re-uploaded with the smaller pin and re-ordered samples. Interestingly the reduction in material volume has also resulted in a price drop. I just hope they now pass Shapeway's manual checks.

 

attachicon.gifLNER Torpedo Vents 2.jpg

Hi Mike,

 

Are these vents the same as those used by the LMS?

 

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mike, 3D printing certainly looks 'the' way to go in the future. There's me sitting down and making brass masters for mould making then having to cast them when I could get them 3D printed. I have tried some 3D masters but at the time the finish wasn't up to par so I returned to hand crafting them, the ones pictured look very good and I've heard that Shapeways have invested in new 'top of the range' printers so I would expect the quality to be better.

The torpedo vents look nice and to answer the previous poster, I could find very little difference between the LNER vents and the later LMS ones that I have done in the Lanarkshire Models range, I'm sure you Mike would have found the same result. Now how about some of the four or five types of shell vents, nightmare....

Anyway, nice to see your name back up there.

 

I was looking to be retiring in a couple of years anyway!!!

 

All the best,

Dave Franks

Edited by davefrk
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mike,

 

Are these vents the same as those used by the LMS?

 

Stan

I cannot say they are identical but any differences are not obvious. It was an LNER GA used as the basis. As far as I am aware the SR version was slightly different.

Link to post
Share on other sites

***** IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT *****

 

Talk about a fast learning curve. The method I used to layer copies of the individual mouldings for the GNR 6 wheel carriage axleboxes and springs and the assorted GNR wagon axleboxes will result in a less than optimum print from Shapeways due to the way Shapeways use the support material. After much head scratching and working out why the support material has the effect it has, I have come up with an alternative method of spruing that should avoid the issue. I have revised the GNR Carriage axleboxes and provided alternative options for ordering for 3, 6 or 12 coaches (both higher quantities are restricted to FUD only). So if anyone has ordered either the GNR 6 wheel coach axlebox/springs or the assorted GNR axlebox/springs and it is not too late to do so, I would advise cancelling your order and re-ordering (I will announce when I have re-sprued the GNR assorted axlebox/springs. Unfortunately it is too late for me, my order is already in production :-(

 

Apologies.

 

P.S. The way Shapeways works is if you have an existing order going through the works you can add further items at a later date and include them with the previous items in a single postage. On checkout select the shipping options and if you have an existing order you can select to defer those items shipping date to include the new items.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mike, 3D printing certainly looks 'the' way to go in the future. There's me sitting down and making brass masters for mould making then having to cast them when I could get them 3D printed. I have tried some 3D masters but at the time the finish wasn't up to par so I returned to hand crafting them, the ones pictured look very good and I've heard that Shapeways have invested in new 'top of the range' printers so I would expect the quality to be better.

The torpedo vents look nice and to answer the previous poster, I could find very little difference between the LNER vents and the later LMS ones that I have done in the Lanarkshire Models range, I'm sure you would have found the same result. Now how about some of the four or five types of shell vents, nightmare....

Anyway, nice to see your name back up there.

Looks like I will be retiring in a couple of years time...

 

All the best,

Dave Franks

Thanks Dave. The quality of your items is superb, as I know from experience. Unfortunately not all manufacturers follow suit.

 

Like you many years ago I hand made patterns in brass, but have always prefered the option to do things electronically (and hopefully more accurately). It is certainly quicker.

 

One thing about 3D printing is every item is identical, truly round and with no registration issues. As such they look crisper.

 

Also as has been stated previously once I upload a model, Shapeways take over the production and commerce.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was looking be retiring in a couple of years anyway!!!

 

I hope you keep going a bit longer than that Dave. I've yet to see a 3d printed buffer that matches the quality of your castings. 

 

Justin

Link to post
Share on other sites

*cue early panic-buying*

 

DON'T PANIC!!!! I'm not going yet.

Still lots of bufferstops to do and some RIV/UIC wagon buffers to finish, yes they are on the workbench as we speak/write, the 'ribbed back' heads are very nice if I say so myself.

 

Dave Franks

Link to post
Share on other sites

The GNR wagon-buffers look excellent, many thanks for those. I have two questions about the buffers. First, what distance are you allowing between the buffing face and the back of the bore for the spring (since this affects the spring rate)? Second, where the buffer bores need to be opened out, what are the inside and outside diameters as printed?

Although I have already responded to Guy's question in an earlier post I thought it might be worth going over how to assemble the prints with specific reference to his questions.

 

As supplied the mouldings need to be cleaned of any waxy deposits. If the moulding looks too translucent, the chances are it needs further cleaning. Here are the FUD printed GNR Unfitted buffers after soaking overnight in a warm water/washing up liquid mix, scrubbing with an old toothbrush and drying:

post-3717-0-51798900-1465402651_thumb.jpg

 

The moulding has now been given a couple of blasts with Halford's Filler Plastic Primer. No other cleanup has been performed:

post-3717-0-36365900-1465402723_thumb.jpg

 

At this point I would normally spray them in Halford's Matt Black but in the interests of being able to see them here I have left them in the primer.

 

First off a strip are snipped off with Xuron cutters:

post-3717-0-87290500-1465402810_thumb.jpg

 

Then a single buffer is cut off:

post-3717-0-53875800-1465402834_thumb.jpg

 

Finally the rear sprue is trimmed off exposing the 0.5mm hole:

post-3717-0-92200700-1465402866_thumb.jpg

 

The main bore as supplied in these buffers is around 0.7mm and needs to be opened up to 0.9mm. The resin moulding is quite easy to drill and if you are not careful it is very easy to drill the large hole all the way through (been there, done that). So to play safe put your chosen drill bit into the drill chuck with just the length you want to drill exposed:

post-3717-0-23690200-1465403063_thumb.jpg

 

Gently drill out the main bore and check the buffer head fits:

post-3717-0-11826300-1465403115_thumb.jpg

 

Assemble the head and spring into the buffer body and if all is OK bend the tail of the buffer head using fine pliers as a spacer:

post-3717-0-46918300-1465403181_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-66211800-1465403195_thumb.jpg

 

Trim off the excess tail:

post-3717-0-81932200-1465403224_thumb.jpg

 

post-3717-0-87843600-1465403238_thumb.jpg

 

OK using the above method is not terribly accurate so an alternative is to create a spacer out of styrene that will gauge the projection of the buffer head from the body:

post-3717-0-33812400-1465403318_thumb.jpg

 

Check the main stem of the buffer is slightly longer than the spacer:

post-3717-0-80022200-1465403348_thumb.jpg

 

To assemble slot the head and spring through the slot in the spacer and thread on the buffer body, then pressing the body down to the styrene spacer bend over the buffer tail. As you can see here I have held the buffer body (carefully) in the pliers, however a simpler way would be to use another piece of styrene with a 2mm hole drilled in it:

post-3717-0-30017800-1465403465_thumb.jpg

 

A problem you may encounter, especially with short buffers such as these, is once assembled the buffer head no longer retreats fully into the buffer body (you can test this before bending the tail over. This is caused by the spring reaching its maximum compression. If this is an issue for you simply cut the spring in half and if necessary stretch it slightly. To cut the spring, place on a hard surface and using  modelling knife slide between the coils and push through.

 

I strongly recommend drilling all the buffer bodies of a particular type at the same time to keep the same main bore depth.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have much information of the coaches during their later lives. What appears to have happened is when/if BR rebuilt various vehicles after nationalisation they removed the old vents as shown in my models and replaced them with a round type (which can still be seen on preserved Buffer Cars). You would therefore need to know for a specific vehicle if it was rebuilt and when.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have much information of the coaches during their later lives. What appears to have happened is when/if BR rebuilt various vehicles after nationalisation they removed the old vents as shown in my models and replaced them with a round type (which can still be seen on preserved Buffer Cars). You would therefore need to know for a specific vehicle if it was rebuilt and when.

Many thanks.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...