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Tillig Elite power contact clips. Help requested.

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  • RMweb Gold



Can anyone here who is familiar with Tillig Elite HO track please advise on the best way to get good reliable electrical connections to the rail using the Tillig power contact clips. Catalogue No 85506.


Is there a special tool for these or what is the technique for attaching them to the track?


Many thanks. Colin



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Since they remained relatively loose even with the clips correctly positioned either side of the rail, I ended up soldering them to the rail - which actually turned out to be a simple and quick task which didn't distort the sleepering in any way. It is probably as easy to solder a wire direct to the rail - but since I had bought the clips, I thought that I might as well use them.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for that. I had the same experience and was wondering if I was doing something wrong. I have two packets of them but after experimenting yesterday I have decided to stick to soldering direct.


I have found that the factory soldered clips on point frogs tend to come adrift when soldering a wire to them. I ended up direct soldering to four frogs this afternoon.


The Tillig track is easily damaged and demands very careful handling but the end result with the Tillig ballast is worth the effort.

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  • 4 years later...


I seem to be following in Colin's footsteps 4 years later.

I asked Tillig to confirm how these are to be fitted. Their translated answer was: 


 The application of the contact terminal 85506 can be seen here as a picture:

The bracket is thus inserted into the profile at the bottom and can then be soldered there firmly. Please note that if the profile is burned, the burnishment must be removed so that the current flow is not inhibited. A cable can then be soldered to the second end of the contact terminal.



Therefore there seems to be no gain, at least to a UK modeller. If you need to solder the clip to the rail, why not solder the dropper to the rail directly? 


I'm also using Styrostone, as I assume Colin did.


My few trials thus far mean that for me, I'll probably solder droppers to the underside of cleaned burnished fishplates, rather than to the rails directly. This is because of the installation sequence required by Styrostone and my use of deep foam baseboards. That way, I can drill dropper holes after fitting the track/styro as work proceeds, rather than have to pre-drill them and be super-accurate.


If I get fishplate continuity issues, I'll have to direct solder to (cleaned) rails. The fishplates 85501 are burnished, as is the track except the rail tops. Life is too short to contemplate cleaning the inner faces of the fishplates!


Trust this may be of use to those following in the next 4 years!










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