Help with 00 layout for a small board

[MrsMallard]

Thank you

 

Ok so we'll definitely go for DCC, my list so far:

 

* Peco track pieces required to make the layout posted by Ian on the first page

 

* DCC controller

 

* See about getting Thomas & Percy fitted with decoders. He is planning to buy James with his birthday money and it says James is DCC ready so that just means we need to get him a decoder to click in - is that right? No soldering needed?

 

The Hornby point power clips mentioned, is that the R602 or the R8242? And where best to place them? Also do we need these? http://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/Hornby-digital-electric-point-clips.html 

 

We are in Lancashire btw

 

Thanks, sorry for my barrage of questions!

 

K x

[Zomboid]

To fit James with his decoder you'll need to dismantle him to get at the socket, but then you should be able to just plug it in. The model should come with instructions on that.

Check the socket size though, you can get at least 2 different ones, possibly more.

[traction]

Thank you

 

Ok so we'll definitely go for DCC, my list so far:

 

* Peco track pieces required to make the layout posted by Ian on the first page

 

* DCC controller

 

* See about getting Thomas & Percy fitted with decoders. He is planning to buy James with his birthday money and it says James is DCC ready so that just means we need to get him a decoder to click in - is that right? No soldering needed?

 

The Hornby point power clips mentioned, is that the R602 or the R8242? And where best to place them? Also do we need these? http://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/Hornby-digital-electric-point-clips.html 

 

We are in Lancashire btw

 

Thanks, sorry for my barrage of questions!

 

K x

 

Yes DCC ready just means buying a suitable plug in decoder, can be any 8pin type to plug in, a good model shop should be able to advise.

 

DCC controller, I've said the Hornby Select or Bachmann EZ-Command but they are basic starter systems and can be limited, neither will program any CV's.

What does that mean????

Well a loco decoder has individual settings built in that you can change these are CV's or configuration variables.

So you can program CV3 with a value which happens to be acceleration, if you program it with a high number you can turn the speed up fully but the loco will take a long time to get to that speed.

CV4 is deceleration, CV5 is max speed.

You can get really good results by tuning these CV's

 

Now some very basic decoders don't have many CV's available that you can change, some decoders have loads that you will never change, so again a good model shop should be able to help with an average decoder.

Usually the more money you pay for a decoder the better performance you will get from it, and it should have more CV's available.

 

So if you want to play with these you will need a DCC controller that can actually program CV's, there are many to choose from all different price ranges and hand held or CAB type to those listed which are console type.

 

As this is all new to you, I would personally see what a good loco model shop has in store, so you can go back to them with questions if required.

The track is standard so can be bought anywhere, but with controllers its nice to know you can go back and ask questions, it also means you can go to the shop and have a play with the different types, always a good idea!!!

 

You don't need a track clip, if you do get a Hornby one make sure it's the digital type, R8242

Initially you will need the digital electric point clips R8232, to put in each point, as you need the whole layout to have power on it.

You could actually replace the fish plates which connect the track together with prewired ones and connect these to the track output of your chosen controller.

 

I started this thread Link below which shows a way of wiring up the layout without soldering which may help.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/102371-oo-thomas-in-the-country-without-soldering-update-21032016/?p=1994769

 

For a few quick reviews I've done on DCC systems link below:-

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106867-dcc-controller-list-basic-review-by-owners/?p=2156485

 

There are many more DCC controllers available but no one else seems to be writing a review of the ones they own, but if not sure, look at Digitrains, DCC supplies, Ehattons etc to see the vast amount that's out there.

As Master Mallard is 8 I think a Dynamis Ultima may go down well, as it's very games console controller type, but it's infra red so it will need a few detectors around the layout to pick up the signal.

Its expensive, but it is wireless which may be useful.

There are cheaper systems out there that can do the same and a lot more again its budget and personal choice

 

 

Keep on asking questions there is no need to rush into buying the wrong thing!

When it comes to DCC controllers one controller really doesn't fit all and you need to try as many as possible to know which is right for you.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

Edited June 19, 2016 by traction

[MrsMallard]

Thanks for all the info Ian

 

I think cost-wise we are going to have to go for the Hornby Select to start off with, with buying baseboard materials, the track, controller and getting a few of his current engines fitted with decoders it will take up the budget that we had set aside for now. If the track was set up for DCC from the beginning we could look into upgrading to a better controller in the future, I think?

 

So when we have the layout set up, adding Digital electric point clips to the points and connecting to a controller do we then need to do additional powering to the second oval and central sidings? It's the thought of wiring that is baffling me! 

 

Thanks, K

[TonyMay]

The tendency for most people is to try to buy as many locomotives as possible.  That's understandable - they're interesting.  But if you buy lots, half of them will spend most of their time in their boxes because there's not enough room for them on the trainset.  So if you have the budget, it would be better to have fewer but better quality locos, so upgrading what you have to DCC, (plus maybe sound, lights, etc) seems like a good idea, before you rush out and buy new ones because they look pretty (they do look pretty).

[traction]

Thanks for all the info Ian

 

I think cost-wise we are going to have to go for the Hornby Select to start off with, with buying baseboard materials, the track, controller and getting a few of his current engines fitted with decoders it will take up the budget that we had set aside for now. If the track was set up for DCC from the beginning we could look into upgrading to a better controller in the future, I think?

 

So when we have the layout set up, adding Digital electric point clips to the points and connecting to a controller do we then need to do additional powering to the second oval and central sidings? It's the thought of wiring that is baffling me! 

 

Thanks, K

 

OK, that's a good plan.

You can easily sell the Hornby Select on or even get the Hornby Elite and use the Select as an extra throttle.

Remember there are other systems available, I'm just recommending what a local model shop will probably have in stock and will be able to help you with.

 

Wiring for DCC, basically every bit of track needs to have power, so if you connect two wires to one bit of track, you are relying on all of the metal fish plates(the clips that hold two bits of track together) to pass the power all around the track.

Now the points are set track and are what's known as insulfrog, it basically means if you switch the point one way, power will only run the way the point goes, no power goes down the other route.

To over come this we fit the little Hornby power clips so then it doesn't matter which way the point is set power will go down either route.

 

So you can get away with just connecting two wires to the track use the point clips and away you go.....but!!!

 

As you can imagine if you just have two wires from your DCC controller going to one bit of track you are relying on everything being great to make sure power gets to all parts of the track, over time this power can reduce due to dirt or expansion, bad connection etc, so you may get areas furthest away from where you have connected your controller that the loco may slow down or stop.

 

To over come this we fit what we call a power bus, basically its two bits of wire that run round below the base board, one of the two ends connect to the DCC controller, the other end just gets terminated into one of those little plastic blocks with screws in it, one wire in its own terminal to keep them separate.

So we've basically extended the two wires from your DCC controller all the way round the underneath of the baseboard.

 

In that previous link, I showed which cable I used and where I got it from.

I then used the Peco pre-wired rail connectors and just removed the connector that is already fitted to the bit of track and replaced with one of these, just need to drill a hole through the baseboard, same diameter as the wire and poke the wire through the baseboard.

 

You do this around the layout replacing some of the fish plates with these pre-wired type, reds all on one side of the rail and black all on the other side of the rail, then connect them to the power bus below the baseboard, again all reds go to one wire, all blacks go to the other wire.

I showed in that previous link, I used the scotch lock connectors to connect these "dropper" wires to the bus wiring.

This just makes the electrical circuit around the layout more reliable.

You don't have to do every single fish plate, yes it will make it much more reliable but in my opinion for a home layout a little overkill, especially if it gets changed around.

I normally would put a pair on each siding then a pair on each straight and another pair in the centre of each curve of the oval.

Doing this you don't need to fit the Hornby point clips as you've already put power to each route from the point.

 

This thread I did may help along with the others above, its for N-gauge but that really doesn't matter, principle is the same.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98047-so-youre-going-to-buy-a-train-set-update-18072015/?p=1847556

 

It shows an easy way to remember which side of track is which by using a wagon with a sticker on each side saying red or black, push the wagon around the whole layout and just mark on the baseboard what colour is on each side, when you come to fit the pre-wired fish plates just keep all the red wires on one side and all the blacks on the other.

 

Hope that helps a bit.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

Edited June 21, 2016 by traction

[MrsMallard]

Thank you, it's seeming a bit clearer now! I've bookmarked the links and will have a proper look through them. MM was very impressed with the link to the track with Thomas you posted!

 

Ok i've ordered the baseboard materials, track and controller and i've found a model shop nearby that will fit decoders to engines. I'm taking Thomas and Percy over there next week for him to look at and see if they're ok for the decoders (he said it can be difficult with some older models). Still need to get the wiring bits. Then once everything has arrived/been sorted Grandad can get down to business and start setting it up!

 

And no doubt i'll be back to ask more questions

 

Thank you again, it's much appreciated.

 

K

[traction]

The fun now begins!!!

 

Have fun, and if you get stuck just ask questions, no point in it getting you down if something goes a bit wrong lots of us can help, and if you can take photos and post them on here, it makes it easier to give advice if required.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

[Guest pboeast]

Perhaps a single track line? If so you should read up the plans on Auchendinny. I would suggest something other than a loop, as watching locos go round a plain double track loop is horribly boring! Try FreeTrackPlans.com, they offer quite a good range. Just remember, that track plan squares are usually 1ft x 1ft or 300mm x 300mm.

[Guest pboeast]

MrsMallard certainly is real, the same message and situation with the same username is on the Hornby forum as well.

[DCB]

watching locos go round a plain double track loop is horribly boring!

Not if Thomas is racing Gordon its not!  When my son was small we spent hours playing with a double track oval about 4'6" X 3ft with Triang Transcon locos with lights, single ended diesels topping and tailing 4 coaches hurtling round at incredible sped.  Double track is fun for kids, a single track with passing loop more operating fun for adults.