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10 hours ago, Legend said:

Your filling is superb . I'm still trying to master it . Is there anything in particular you use to get such a smooth finish?

 

Inspirational as always!

Thanks, there are always going to be some small blemishes, if they don't show up too much then I can live with it. The trick with cut & shuts (particularly on long, plain sides such as Mk.1's) is to make sure the joined parts are as square as possible and the join is as accurate as possible to avoid 1 half being slightly inset relative to the other, something I find best done by eye. Small strips of plasticard across the back of the join add strength. I use Milliput for filling large areas (eg windows) and Squadron Grey or grey/green putty for finer gaps etc, both applied with an old Stanley knife blade as thinly as possible and smoothed as much as possible before it sets.

 

Then it's just a matter of sanding and priming, which, in my case, will inevitably show some areas needing further attention so it's a case of fill, sand and prime again. It seems an endless cycle on occasions!

 

Sanding near or around doors is difficult, particularly those with moulded paint seams (Triang etc) so it is sometimes easier to sand the lot and apply fresh detail after using etched brass door details such as those by Mainly Trains, Comet, MJT or PC/HMRS. 

 

I don't usually use anything finer than 240 grade wet & dry for sanding, used wet. Grey auto primer will help show any blemishes that need further treatment. 

 

Hope this helps!

Martyn.

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What I hope will be the final coat of primer has been applied to the sides, the previously weathered chassis has had a fresh coat of black paint, and the roof a coat of car bumper Anthracite grey.20201126_223102.jpg.8df9f480b8652a145c2c1fcc691c25db.jpg

Apologies for the poor lighting. The sorting shelf side really is as plain as it gets! This was one case where it was easier to sand all the centre doors detail off, score new lines and add etched hinges instead.

20201126_223033.jpg.1b28e7d86ce260b71ce5144d6653f84c.jpg

a darker grey paint will be applied as a base for the BR blue, and the top half sprayed with Rail grey, not forgetting the coach ends, with HMRS white lining to complete.

 

Rob (37114) has some suitable RM postbox etc transfers, which he is kindly sending me; thanks Rob!

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On 26/11/2020 at 22:52, Signaller69 said:

What I hope will be the final coat of primer has been applied to the sides, the previously weathered chassis has had a fresh coat of black paint, and the roof a coat of car bumper Anthracite grey.20201126_223102.jpg.8df9f480b8652a145c2c1fcc691c25db.jpg

Apologies for the poor lighting. The sorting shelf side really is as plain as it gets! This was one case where it was easier to sand all the centre doors detail off, score new lines and add etched hinges instead.

20201126_223033.jpg.1b28e7d86ce260b71ce5144d6653f84c.jpg

a darker grey paint will be applied as a base for the BR blue, and the top half sprayed with Rail grey, not forgetting the coach ends, with HMRS white lining to complete.

 

Rob (37114) has some suitable RM postbox etc transfers, which he is kindly sending me; thanks Rob!

 

 

This is looking excellent mate! I feel this could rival Bachmann's effort quite easily at a fraction of the price too! Keep it up!

 

Jules

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2 minutes ago, Departmental203 said:

 

 

This is looking excellent mate! I feel this could rival Bachmann's effort quite easily at a fraction of the price too! Keep it up!

 

Jules

That's the whole point of being a modeller !!!!

 

Gibbo.

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19 minutes ago, jessy1692 said:

Smashing job Martyn, amazing what you can do with an old MK1, I'm regretting flogging all mine off now seeing what everyone is making of them.

Another project to add to my increasing one day list.

All the best

James

YOU DID WHAT !?!?!?

 

I thought you were sensible.

 

Gibbo.

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33 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

YOU DID WHAT !?!?!?

 

I thought you were sensible.

 

Gibbo.

Hahaha! Well, the plan was to flog some off and re invest in more recently produced coaching stock, however, I didn't realise my Dad sold nearly all the old tri ang stuff and then the prices of new stuff shot up so Iv barely any coaches now.... I like wagons more anyway I keep telling myself.

Once the latest round of stalled projects get done I think I'll be looking at making up a couple of mk1 rakes and doing cut n shuts. Toy fairs usually have some bargains if/when they ever start up again.. 

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22 minutes ago, jessy1692 said:

I think I'll be looking at making up a couple of mk1 rakes and doing cut n shuts. Toy fairs usually have some bargains if/when they ever start up again.. 

Roll on that day! Really missing having a rummage in other peoples "junk boxes" as mine is looking decidedly thin lately.....:mocking_mini:

 

Some of the prices I've seen toy trains being "offered" for online is frankly outrageous, let alone the shiny new stuff. So I vote with my wallet less and less these days I'm afraid. 

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57 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

Roll on that day! Really missing having a rummage in other peoples "junk boxes" as mine is looking decidedly thin lately.....:mocking_mini:

 

Some of the prices I've seen toy trains being "offered" for online is frankly outrageous, let alone the shiny new stuff. So I vote with my wallet less and less these days I'm afraid. 

You can't beat a good junk box rummage! I really do miss the toy fairs, although latterly they had gone a bit stale on Yorkshire circuit, you'd see the same stuff being carted around time after time. I think its a bit of a vicious circle, inflated online prices=inflated toy fair prices which then leads to higher online prices! 

 

This year online has been a bit crazy, seen some mind boggling prices, but yet have turned up the odd decent deal just from keeping a patient eye out, so can't chunter too much. In the main though I do feel like prices are getting a bit out of reach for me for new stuff and even second hand now. As brilliant as current rtr stuff is I just don't have that much spare cash, I do worry with the increasing costs itl start pricing people out of the hobby but thats a debate for elsewhere, and anyway, its much more fun chopping and fettling up old stuff than opening a box!

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I lucked out last year on a rake of Bachman Mark 1's, for about $20/per on ebay.  I remember one outfit, I think Bachman again, wanted 59 GBP for one of their new Mark 1's.

 

 

Great job on the chop.   I'm sorry, I suppose this isn't the place for new RTR pricing.

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10 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

I lucked out last year on a rake of Bachman Mark 1's, for about $20/per on ebay.  I remember one outfit, I think Bachman again, wanted 59 GBP for one of their new Mark 1's.

 

 

Great job on the chop.   I'm sorry, I suppose this isn't the place for new RTR pricing.

No need to apologise, pricing does have a valid link with this particular project as I was intending to buy a Bachmann TPO, however in my local model shop they are almost £70 (and generally well north of £50 through the big box shifters) and I just couldn't justify it currently.

 

This is not the place for debate I agree, I'm sure we all have our own opinions.

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3 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

No need to apologise, pricing does have a valid link with this particular project as I was intending to buy a Bachmann TPO, however in my local model shop they are almost £70 (and generally well north of £50 through the big box shifters) and I just couldn't justify it currently.

 

This is not the place for debate I agree, I'm sure we all have our own opinions.

 Yeah but think of the fun and satisfaction you got making one by yourself . I'm the same with the 126 unit thats moving at a glacier rate, but it is fun. 

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1 hour ago, Legend said:

 Yeah but think of the fun and satisfaction you got making one by yourself . I'm the same with the 126 unit thats moving at a glacier rate, but it is fun. 

Absolutely! And it is a different TPO version to the RTR model of course which is an added bonus.

 

Have you got a thread on your 126 build? I think, for me, the filling & sanding stage is generally the worst bit (and hand-cutting and fitting flush glazing in the case of my 126; still got one trailer waiting to be done).

 

 

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23 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

Absolutely! And it is a different TPO version to the RTR model of course which is an added bonus.

 

Have you got a thread on your 126 build? I think, for me, the filling & sanding stage is generally the worst bit (and hand-cutting and fitting flush glazing in the case of my 126; still got one trailer waiting to be done).

 

 

 

Well this is the first time I've tried something like this , so I am going very slowly . I am looking at this build as an experiment . If it works and at least looks like a 126 I'll be happy , but I'm thinking this one will be test and next one might be better model . I've sourced enough Trix coaches probably for 2 three car sets maybe even 3, so I can afford to make a few mistakes .  My major issue was that I managed to buy a set of coaches that had been glued to chassis , I mean really glued! Bonded almost . As a result I had to cut the sides off so I've lost that little strip that would have given added depth . I am continuing though , the DMSL sides have been cut and rearranged in correct order . I have used thin carboard to give some support from behind while glueing parts together , and on Sunday I started with the filler . This weekend I might get to do some sanding . I'm sure I'll need to refill and sand a good bit more . So I am progressing but obviously at a much slower rate than you . You do actually make it look easy  whereas for me its a bit more tricky . There's also that hesitancy  especially in cutting up such nice coaches .  But overall I'm enjoying the whole experience . I've got a Lima 117 chassis now as well , so I'm progressing but at a glacier rate  .  For glazing I think I'll stick to clear film /acetate behind windows . I still run Mainline Mk1s so the lack of flush glazing is not such a major issue for me.  I thank you for the inspiration and hope that I'll get something passable to me out of it. 

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4 hours ago, Legend said:

 

Well this is the first time I've tried something like this , so I am going very slowly . I am looking at this build as an experiment . If it works and at least looks like a 126 I'll be happy , but I'm thinking this one will be test and next one might be better model . I've sourced enough Trix coaches probably for 2 three car sets maybe even 3, so I can afford to make a few mistakes .  My major issue was that I managed to buy a set of coaches that had been glued to chassis , I mean really glued! Bonded almost . As a result I had to cut the sides off so I've lost that little strip that would have given added depth . I am continuing though , the DMSL sides have been cut and rearranged in correct order . I have used thin carboard to give some support from behind while glueing parts together , and on Sunday I started with the filler . This weekend I might get to do some sanding . I'm sure I'll need to refill and sand a good bit more . So I am progressing but obviously at a much slower rate than you . You do actually make it look easy  whereas for me its a bit more tricky . There's also that hesitancy  especially in cutting up such nice coaches .  But overall I'm enjoying the whole experience . I've got a Lima 117 chassis now as well , so I'm progressing but at a glacier rate  .  For glazing I think I'll stick to clear film /acetate behind windows . I still run Mainline Mk1s so the lack of flush glazing is not such a major issue for me.  I thank you for the inspiration and hope that I'll get something passable to me out of it. 

Brilliant, glad you've sourced the various bits, annoying about the glued Trix Mk.1s I'm sure!

 

Just go at the rate you feel happy with. I often just look at something for ages working out how it will fit with something else (the Lima 117 chassis to the 126 bodies being a perfect example), but it's time well spent I feel. I totally understand about the glazing. I could have sworn that years ago SEF did flushglaze for the Trix coaches but I have not found any reference anywhere in recent times. I may have been confusing them with the old Grafar coaches which they definitely did/do cater for.

 

A couple of photos from way back in the thread which may be of help showing 1) how the DMS was cut and shut (and the Edinburgh/ Glasgow DMBSi with it's different chassis arrangement) and 2&3) how the plasticard DMBS full cab end blank was formed along the drawn lines and fitted before drilling out the windows, along with using offcuts of roof to form the cab roof as per Brian Kirby's method.

IMG_20180521_002527_1.jpg.977e2e7a604328bbb01fb5b594ff6070.jpg20201202_192855.jpg.d5e43821836c5dce026731cdec84efc1.jpg

20201202_194939.jpg.2cb84671d0a06f33503659bc86c61ccc.jpg

There were times when perseverance was required, but it pays off when each stage is completed and you can see the progress. Good luck!

 

Martyn.

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Yeah that end on the DMBS will be the biggest challenge . I will save that until last I think , although there’s no harm doing some practice ones ahead of time 

 

Again I take my hat off to you Brian and Clive .  Without your thread I would not have tried this .

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1 hour ago, Signaller69 said:

....... I often just look at something for ages working out how it will fit with something else ..........

 

I can identify with that... I'm a firm believer in the technique of "give it a good coat of looking-at", a phrase attributed (I think) to Alan Titchmarsh's Dad or Grandad.

 

I also have ambitions to create an E&G Swindon set, but will probably have to live to age 175...!

 

Cheers !

 

Alasdair

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That cab end, how close is it to the class 120 cab? Only asking as it may be useful to use the DC kits cab you can get as a spare. As for the coach sides, you can just use a piece of 1mm X 2mm plastic section, glued onto the bottom to deepen them. As you are going to use filler and rub down the sides after, the difference in profile will disappear.

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2 hours ago, cheesysmith said:

That cab end, how close is it to the class 120 cab? Only asking as it may be useful to use the DC kits cab you can get as a spare. As for the coach sides, you can just use a piece of 1mm X 2mm plastic section, glued onto the bottom to deepen them. As you are going to use filler and rub down the sides after, the difference in profile will disappear.

Thanks, yes if you can get 120 cab ends it might make life easier, I wasn't aware DC now do the cab ends separately tbh. The windows look the same, below the windows might need changes depending on the DC arrangement and the 126 being modelled eg headcode boxes adding, tail lights removing but the basic shape and windows provide a good starting point I agree.

 

Making the cab end from scratch isn't difficult per se, getting the various angles right is the trick, I'm the first to admit mine isn't 100% correct.

 

I did indeed use plastic strip in places where I ran out of Trix offcuts (as they need removing anyway to sit on the Lima chassis).

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