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Signaller69's projects: oldskool Hornby 25 conversions with resin u/f etc details


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Methinks when I next need something from Bachmann I'll ask you to get it for me :)

 

Meant to say on my first post in your thread, excellent work you're doing here!

Many thanks Andy, must admit I didn't hold much hope they would have any in stock, let alone the exact one from my version. Had visions of having to butcher some old Lima sideframes or such to fit the loco!

 

Cheers,

Martyn.

Edited by Signaller69
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  • 2 weeks later...

Bachmann Class 37 bogie sideframe arrived (though not a weathered one, but this has been rectified). TOPS loco numbers removed ready for runumbering as 6728 as I found a photo of it hauling Carflats from Bathgate c.1970. Having had a look at the innards of the loco I am aiming to lower the body onto the bogies by 1mm or so to reduce the unsightly gap above the bogies.

The postman has just delivered my Shawplan order for this loco too, happy days.

 

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Another job off the Class 37 rebuild list; the bogie mounts have been replaced with new ones fabricated from bits of plasticard, sprue and aluminium tube spacers, in order to lower the loco on the bogies (as this version sits too high as standard) and reduce the visible gap between bogies and body as mentioned in the previous post. The new mounts result in a 1.5mm - 2mm drop which improves the look no end. Bogie swing is slightly more restricted of course as the wheel faces now foul the inside of the body (rather than the flanges fouling it), but as I don't use tight curves it isn't a problem.

 

The mounts themselves were fiddly rather than hard to make, taking measurements from the originals (which unscrew from the bogies) and adjusting them in height whilst noting clearances etc; I managed to swap them out without removing the bogies completely, although it was a little fiddly locating the pair of screws which secure each pivot to the bogie through the chassis block cutouts, whilst ensuring the cardan shaft remained in situ - this however saved the need to have to cut and re-solder the pick-up wires.

 

Just need to give the loco a test run, then I can think about starting the bodywork. . .

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Class 37 restoration project is finished; the bulk of the work involved fitting the replacement Shawplan/Extreme Etchings roof grille, frost grilles, headcode box fronts, windscreens and Lazer-glaze and brake levers, renumbering and touching up the paintwork as required. Despite some tricky moments it has turned out quite well.

 

Although Scottish Region didn't appear to get an allocation of split headcode box 37's before the late 70s, Eastern Region locos did get to the Edinburgh/Glasgow area at least c.1970 (eg Bathgate Carflat trains), so its use on a grain working ex Eastern Region to Crinan may be justified. . .

 

 

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Another quick job done this morning, which I'd put off for a few weeks. My unpowered class 29 had the Hornby "road-roller" wheels replaced with nice Alan Gibson 3'6", 10 spoked ones (Closest available to the prototype 3'7", and about 0.5mm larger over the wheel tread than the Hornby wheels they replace), mainly for better running. Some "washers" were cut from plastic tube to reduce sideplay. I'd like to say they improve the aesthetics no end too, but in truth they are barely visible!

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  • 1 month later...

With layout work continuing on "Crinan" I have turned my eye to "Talywain" rolling stock, namely the Feed and Stores wagons the NCB converted from 7 plank open wagons (seen in PGH's excellent photos on p.2 of my Talywain thread). Having a Mainline Coke wagon and Bachmann 7 plank doing very little in my stock box, these have been butchered to build the pair.

 

The Mainline wagon was too long and had a 10ft w/b chassis (being a late model it had the Airfix style chassis. This chassis was donated to another wagon and replaced with an even older Mainline chassis with the older brakegear not in line with the wheels.) A quick check revealed that by cutting down both the body and chassis by 4mm would give a correct 9ft wheelbase chassis and an overall body length which matched the Bachmann model. As the doors were to be replaced this subterfuge isn't really noticable, and had the advantage that the Mainline brake gear could be replaced with a better representation from my bits box. So, some pics:

 

Body had the doors cut out before being cut into 2 parts with a razor saw at one corner of the door opening. The chassis was cut centrally and all brake gear removed. The body and chassis were then glued back together and a start made on adding 3 extra planks and sloping planked ends (Slaters 2mm planking braced with plain 20thou plasticard and plastic filler) plus internal cross bracing thus:

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Doors were then fabricated and fitted:

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Followed by the corrugated "wiggly tin" roof and new brake gear:

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After a blast of black primer I added some Archer resin rivet transfer detail (my first use of these) to some of the added strapping, although sadly these are barely visible in comparison to the original wagon rivets (seen here on the vertical strap to the right of the end corner post):

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And on the top central strapping here:

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Some weathering followed, just needs a final coat of matt varnish and a little more rust applying:

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So now attention is turning to the Bachmann wagon. Thankfully this does not involve cutting the body or chassis in two, just removal of the horizontal doors ready for the vertical planked taller versions. New corner posts will need to be fabricated too:

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More to follow!

 

Edit to add a note regarding the Archer Rivet transfers (no I do not regard myself as a rivet counter, I just wanted the added strapping to match what was already there)!

 

I purchased my sample pack from DCC supplies at Warley show last year; they are not cheap at around £14 a sheet. Being produced for the American HO market they are very fine in comparison to RTR 00 scale so I would suggest if purchasing going for "large" rivets from the range available (or even small 0 scale ones). The waterslide backing film is also exceptionally thin, particularly compared to some British made transfers I have used, and it is difficult to see where the transfer is once floated off the backing as the resin rivets and backing film are clear - a magnifyer is highly recommended! Nearly drove me mad applying a dozen 7 - 9mm lengths to the above wagon! Using longer strips (eg around a smokebox or tank wagon) would be easier though. I think they are best applied after all painting is done, onto a gloss surface, with just a sealing coat of varnish; anything heavier will render the rivets almost invisible.

 

To sum up, an excellent product which needs very careful use and buckets of patience to get the best results; in my case slightly marred by my relatively crude finishing and weathering techniques!

Edited by Signaller69
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  • 2 weeks later...

The Feed and Stores Vans were finished just in time for "Talywain"s showing at Colwyn MRC's exhibition at the weekend:

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So with the layout safely stored away thoughts turn once again to Crinan. A Heljan 26/0 is the latest acquisition, courtesy of another Hattons Bargain! However it needs a little work to bring it to post 1966 condition, ie removal of the boiler water tank and fitting of Air Brake equipment in its place, as well as re-positioning the exhaust and a few other minor mods. It will become D5300 or D5301 which retained this livery until at least 1970.

 

The story so far:

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The tank framework was soldered up from scrap Code 75 rail, the tanks being Evergreen plastic tube with Milliput ends and brass handrail wire for the pipework, all fitted to a plasticard base which was then attached to the fuel tank. The small detail fittings above the framework were simply cut from the discarded water tank and trimmed to fit. While the fuel tank was in bits following cutting the water tank section away, I thinned both sides where they fit to the central spine section by about 1mm as they look a little wide as supplied to my eye.

 

From looking at photos, the original exhaust port was capped rather than removed, so it was simply filled with Milliput, however the 'cap' should be a little wider so I may replicate this if I can find a suitable disc of brass or plasticard in amongst my bits. Next up is to make the new exhaust port in the later position.

 

Finally for now, the loco as bought:

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More soon.

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A bit more progress on the 26 this afternoon.

 

Last digit of the number removed from all four corners using a shaped coffee stirer and Asda cream cleaner to rub the number off:

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An old Hornby buffer head was employed as an original exhaust "cap". A new exhaust was then added using a rectangle of plasticard glued into place and then drilled and filed to make the outlet. Both were then painted:

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Finally the fuel tank / air tanks were given a blast of black paint; the tanks will be given a wash of light grey and other details picked out as appropriate.

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Next up will be the extra 2 lamp irons carried at each end of D5301, thoughtfully Heljan supply half a dozen green ones in the accessory pack that came with the loco, these will be given a coat of W.P. yellow prior to fitting.

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The extra lamp irons needed another coat of paint so other embellishments have been added first whilst they are drying.

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Moving to the cab front, I decided to leave the connecting door outline as is, the real thing had them plated over, however photos show the outline is still visible to a degree so it seemed excessive removing a tiny amount of plastic and having to repaint the yellow panel as a result. However the 2 tiny door handrails across the white band at each end were removed and the holes left were filled with Milliput and touched in.

The steam heat pipe was removed and a spare air brake pipe fitted instead and the screw couplings removed as I use Kadees. Headcode discs were then added for suitable freight services.

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And out with the trusty HMRS transfers! Luckily they match the size and "weight" of the Heljan numbers nicely so it was only necessary to add the last digit to each number. On one side of this loco the BR logo was strangely at the grille end as seen below. Data panels from Modelmasters. Another oddity at this time (c.1970) was the position of the OHLE warning flash below the number, a few other Scottish locos appear to have been so treated. Axleboxes were picked out in yellow, again as per this particular loco. (Prototype image http://www.rcts.org.uk/photographs/archive/380/MJB/MJB0263.jpg )

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Almost finished now!

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The new lamp irons have been added to D5301; only when checking against photos again such as this one: https://goo.gl/images/KFyoCi I noticed that the original outer ones had been removed by 1970 so it was out with the scalpel and Milliput again (this arrangement was reversed again at a later date, possibly when repainted into BR Blue).

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And a start made on weathering using a little thinned Humbrol matt black paint to lift the detail, particularly around the headcode discs as this slightly cruel close up shows. It is hard to be certain about the buffer beam colour; red was of course the "standard" on green locos but there is little, if any, hint of red in photos of this loco c.1970. My answer was to just heavily weather them as this photo shows:

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The roof will have further treatment along with brake dust etc on the bodyside, bogies etc.

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D5301 has now had the weathering completed:

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Just need to fit some Kadees and she is ready for service.

 

And now for something completely different.

 

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I picked this kit (1:108 scale) up last weekend with a view to bashing it into something fit to use the Crinan Canal Locks in 4mm:ft scale (Hull is approx 55ft scale length at 4mm:ft), either a small Freighter akin to a Clyde Puffer, or a local Fishing boat (with lots of rigging for nets etc), starting with the premise of using as many parts of the kit as possible (with scratchbuilt parts instead where required). A start has been made (apologies for the bright plastic!):

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The one piece hull as provided. Nice, but I need a "waterline" hull. Out with the razor saw then . . .

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Next the decking and upper Hull sides were added, before the cabin section was cut down and assembled into something more usable, and the Bridge assembled. Both these assemblies were increased in depth using plasticard to compensate for the scale discrepancy, hence the nasty looking plastic filler. The chimney is an offcut of Plastruct tube, squashed to an oval profile and which may or may not be used:

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Depending how happy I am with it, the whole Cabin/Bridge superstructure may be replaced with something more closely resembling a "Puffer" and scratchbuilt in plasticard, although the Hull outline of the kit is somewhat different to the prototypes I have seen in online searches (although mainly the stern arrangement).

 

Next job will be to clean up the filler and then decide which option I am going for so I can sort the deck out.

 

Martyn.

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Best laid plans and all that. . .

 

After much mulling over, I really wasn't happy with the rear of the Tug's Hull for any apllication of either a Puffer or a fishing boat, and the cabin / deck structures, however heavily modified, didn't seem typical of either type. The final clincher though was finding a rather nice Ullapool fishing boat on Alamy, complete with a rather nice "teak" effect cabin and lots of rigging and fishing clutter, so I decided to base my model on this, probably with different registration markings though: http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-ullapool-scotland-fishing-boat-zenith-cruising-the-harbour-54207209.html?pv=1&stamp=2&imageid=5DF6E3AF-296C-4B95-B619-563D5343330E&p=35128&n=0&orientation=0&pn=1&searchtype=0&IsFromSearch=1&srch=foo%3dbar%26st%3d0%26pn%3d1%26ps%3d100%26sortby%3d2%26resultview%3dsortbyPopular%26npgs%3d0%26qt%3dfishing%2520trawler%2520boat%2520scotland%26qt_raw%3dfishing%2520trawler%2520boat%2520scotland%26lic%3d3%26mr%3d0%26pr%3d0%26ot%3d0%26creative%3d%26ag%3d0%26hc%3d0%26pc%3d%26blackwhite%3d%26cutout%3d%26tbar%3d1%26et%3d0x000000000000000000000%26vp%3d0%26loc%3d0%26imgt%3d0%26dtfr%3d%26dtto%3d%26size%3d0xFF%26archive%3d1%26groupid%3d%26pseudoid%3d%26a%3d%26cdid%3d%26cdsrt%3d%26name%3d%26qn%3d%26apalib%3d0%26apalic%3d%26lightbox%3d%26gname%3d%26gtype%3d%26xstx%3d0%26simid%3d%26saveQry%3d%26editorial%3d1%26nu%3d%26t%3d%26edoptin%3d%26customgeoip%3d%26cap%3d1%26cbstore%3d1%26vd%3d0%26lb%3d%26fi%3d2%26edrf%3d .

 

So the hull rear has had plasticard overlays and filler added to give a more prototypical shape, not 100% accurate but much better, and a new cabin has been scratch built, along with planked decking; the latter are still loose and will only be fixed in place as a series of sub-assemblies once painted, glazing fitted etc.

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So much for using as many kit parts as possible. There are however a number of smaller parts such as roof fittings, searchlight, fenders, navigation lights, masts and the like which will be used. The extra masts, Derricks etc will probably be soldered up from brass tube and wire, with winches utilising several old wagon wheels in pairs mounted in framework. Lots of thread and some form of netting will be required too!

 

Not sure any further progress will take place before my holiday but we will see.

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A bit more progress on the 26 this afternoon.

 

Last digit of the number removed from all four corners using a shaped coffee stirer and Asda cream cleaner to rub the number off:

attachicon.gifIMG_20170802_173322.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20170802_173611.jpg

 

An old Hornby buffer head was employed as an original exhaust "cap". A new exhaust was then added using a rectangle of plasticard glued into place and then drilled and filed to make the outlet. Both were then painted:

attachicon.gifIMG_20170802_144005.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20170802_174346.jpg

 

Finally the fuel tank / air tanks were given a blast of black paint; the tanks will be given a wash of light grey and other details picked out as appropriate.

attachicon.gifIMG_20170802_182902.jpg

 

Next up will be the extra 2 lamp irons carried at each end of D5301, thoughtfully Heljan supply half a dozen green ones in the accessory pack that came with the loco, these will be given a coat of W.P. yellow prior to fitting.

Hi Martyn

 

Apologies if it's been covered before, but what type of Asda cleaner did you use to remove the numbering? It certainly looks much easier than my thinners and cotton buds method!

 

Best wishes

 

Max

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Hi Martyn

 

Apologies if it's been covered before, but what type of Asda cleaner did you use to remove the numbering? It certainly looks much easier than my thinners and cotton buds method!

 

Best wishes

 

Max

Hi Max,

It was Asda's own cheapest cream cleaner, lemon fragranced! Probably the same as other Supermarket's stuff. First time I've tried it tbh,I think using a coffee stirrer made the difference over a cotton bud, certainly quicker but they are not so hard as to scratch the surface on a factory paint finish, and can be shaped to do a more defined small area than a cotton bud. I found I hardly had to apply any pressure and just let the cream cleaner do the work.

 

Martyn

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Hi Max,

It was Asda's own cheapest cream cleaner, lemon fragranced! Probably the same as other Supermarket's stuff. First time I've tried it tbh,I think using a coffee stirrer made the difference over a cotton bud, certainly quicker but they are not so hard as to scratch the surface on a factory paint finish, and can be shaped to do a more defined small area than a cotton bud. I found I hardly had to apply any pressure and just let the cream cleaner do the work.

 

Martyn

Thanks Martyn

 

I'll definitely give it a go next time. I noted your comment about matching the size and weight of the numbers when doing a partial renumbering job. I was doing something similar to a Bachmann TOPs class 37 recently and the only numbers I could find that matched were on an ancient sheet of Howes rub-down transfers. Always worth keeping hold of those old transfer sheets!

 

Max

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Thanks Martyn

 

I'll definitely give it a go next time. I noted your comment about matching the size and weight of the numbers when doing a partial renumbering job. I was doing something similar to a Bachmann TOPs class 37 recently and the only numbers I could find that matched were on an ancient sheet of Howes rub-down transfers. Always worth keeping hold of those old transfer sheets!

 

Max

Absolutely Max!

 

I have some Woodhead press fix transfers from c.1995 which still come in useful despite having lost their stickiness. Along with the HMRS (ex PC) ones I much prefer them to waterslide types where possible.

 

Martyn.

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Hi Martyn

 

I've just tried out your cream cleaner (Tesco in this case) and coffee stirrer method for removing numbering and it works a treat!

 

Best wishes

 

Max

Sorry Max, just catching up after my holiday, glad the technique worked for you!

Cheers,

Martyn.

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Having returned from 10 days holiday in Devon and Somerset I have managed to make some more progress.

 

The cabin / Bridge / roof / hull and decking assemblies have all had further detail added. 2 winch mechanisms have been assembled using old wagon wheels removed from their axles and paired with faces glued together and mounted freely on plastic rodding in scratchbuilt frames.

 

The decking has had a simplified fish sorting and sloping hold hatch structure added (I chose not to slavishly copy the prototype referred to earlier, as I suspect much of the fish sorting structure is fairly modern and gives the craft a more lop-sided appearance).

 

A start has been made too, on the front mast which is basically a large "A" frame using brass rod which will be soldered together before adding further detail.

 

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The various assemblies will be painted next before being fixed together. The cabin roof will be held in place with small screws to allow access for glazing etc. Once this is done the masts can be added along with other small details, weathering etc.

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Good progress made on the fishing boat, and getting closer to the rigging stage. . . The hull had a coat of black but will be a dark blue when finished. The Bridge roof is almost complete and will soon be sprayed. The "faux teak" finish came out better than I'd hoped thankfully. The slightly askew front mast is not fixed in place yet.

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Edit: Link to the vessel I am basing my build on is in post #87.

Martyn.

Edited by Signaller69
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Fishing boat now ready to go in the lock at Crinan, done about as much as I want to on this now! I used the name from the tug kit and gave it a fictional Glasgow registration number using some Fox alphabet transfers. The nets are cut from a white kitchen cloth, dyed with water based paints. Slightly coarse perhaps, but they do the job pending finding something better/finer.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another budget project started, this time a ScR Class 126 DMU. I had contemplated for some time how to go about this owing to a lack of current kits. A cut and shut of Triang/Hornby Mk.1 coach sides seemed the answer, but there are few problems, namely each window panel would need cutting out seperately to give the correct spacing, but then the windows are too big too, and the body profile is also incorrect. Brian Kirby of this Parish has done a superb job of making new sides from plasticard in his thread here:http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81538-more-swindon-and-derby-dmus/ but I really doubt I would have the patience to produce anything so neat.

 

However I have found a compromise answer in the use of 1970s Trix Mk.1 sides, which were produced to a slightly smaller scale (1/80 iirc). Although still having the incorrect (for a 126) body profile, the window spacing and size is slightly smaller, the spacing in particular being more-or-less spot on, particularly for the DMS and TC vehicles at least, which keeps the number of cuts to a minimum. Mounted on a modified Lima 117 chassis, and using the Trix coach ends (including a cab conversion in one end) I hope to produce a passable representation of a 3-car unit (or maybe even 5-car eventually). The DMBS vehicle with the characteristic full Swindon cab end will be left to last while I ponder scratchbuilding that part!

 

Anyway, the story so far: the 3 types of Trix Mk.1; RMB, CK & BCK (latter already disassembled), picked up for £5 each at Swapmeets; British made to boot!

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DMS sides cut and shut, with a rib added along the bottom to correct the depth cut from the underside of the internal bracing (filler yet to be applied - if Trix had produced an SK this would have been much easier!) and the Lima 117 Dummy chassis following much removal of plastic and a few underframe mods, and the Trix coach ends in position:

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The rib was added after a test fit of the sides, compared to a Bachmann Mk.1 thus:

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This shows the underscale nature of the Trix V Bachmann Mk.1s:

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The Milliput is now curing on the sides so not much I can do until it has set and the sides cleaned up. I need to source a cheap Lima 117 centre car for the TC conversion (or a full 3 car set which will give me enough underframes for a 5 car unit).

 

EDIT: somehow this pic got missed out:

post-28743-0-98884300-1505762873_thumb.jpg

Edited by Signaller69
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This afternoon I cleaned up the Class 126 sides using wet & dry papers. These were then glued to the coach ends, and the internal corners braced with a little 2-part epoxy resin, while the front external corners had the small gaps filled with more Milliput. The coach ends are screwed onto the chassis "floor" as may have been noticed (using bogie and coupling screws from the Trix donor coach), so the whole body can be removed from the chassis for painting etc. A bolster formed from Plastruct section, tube and plasticard was glued across the chassis "box" to allow the Trix securing screw to hold the roof in place. The original Trix glazing strips were held in by what looks like 1970s contact adhesive; the glazing came out without much fight but as can be seen, the residue on the coach sides would be a PITA to remove I suspect.

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Another reference against the Bachmann Mk.1 shows the length to be spot on at 258mm (64'6") over end panels.

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For interiors I will probably make use of the Trix parts, which I think have a rather nice look to them; more importantly their spacing matches of course (Apart from the DMBS which has mainly forward facing seating; I have some old DC Kits seating for this. Parts from 2 RMB interiors would be needed for the current vehicle, afaik the real units did not have tables though so these would need removing. More cutting, oh joy!

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Hoping to get exhausts fitted at the inner end, and etched door hinges fitted tomorrow, maybe even a coat of undercoat if I'm lucky.

 

Bits I will need to order to complete include new roof vents, Gibson DMU wheels on Lima length axles and new buffers (probably 18" turned brass to fit the Lima shanks on the internal ends with Lanarkshire Models rather nice cast ones on the outer Cab ends).

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  • Signaller69 changed the title to Signaller69's projects: oldskool Hornby 25 conversions with resin u/f etc details

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