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5 hours ago, Tallpaul69 said:

Hi Martyn,

Apologies if I have missed this information earlier on in your postings, but what do you use for glazing, both side windows and cab ones, and what is the best glazing adhesive?

Many thanks

Happy New Year

Paul 

Hi Paul,

The 107 will be using the standard Hornby (class 110) glazing, but it needs the bars painting blue vice silver, which I plan to do with a ruling pen when it arrives. The (Lima 117) cab fronts will probably be fitted with individual panes hand cut from clear plasticard; I have used this method to do all the windows on my Class 126 vehicles, which was tedious to say the least, but costs next to nothing!

 

I tend to use matt varnish (either acrylic or enamel) to fix them in place, applied around the opening with a small brush; I find this is sufficiently strong enough for handling, but I have read good things about Deluxe Materials "Glue n Glaze" for this purpose too, so may give it a try in future.

 

All the best for the new year.

 

Martyn. 

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The 107 has had identities applied and awaits varnishing tomorrow. The tension lock couplings have been removed and replaced with simple close coupling bars in a similar manner to that used on my Class 126 (screwed to one vehicle with a peg which locates in the adjoining vehicle bogie), which reduces play between vehicles (one of my pet hates) to almost zero. 

20200102_221857.jpg.45b0678fe7ad09e7ffb8e28a69164174.jpg20200102_221118.jpg.6f8e55dfe1f334b985ca7144b86a3743.jpg20200102_221531.jpg.e8dcaf4b2c89fd63641ec8fb39d89a0f.jpg

 

The 105 has had the loose windows refitted and new headcode & destination blinds made using a sandwich of clear plastic / transfer / clear plastic.

20200102_221743.jpg.87bd7fd25ed61bd663682afcff584fda.jpg

Being from batch 4 of the class, after checking photos, Lanarkshire Oleo 18" buffers were fitted rather than the early style I was assuming would be fitted. Other details still need adding.

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I have been messing around with one of the cheap ruling pens, which arrived yesterday, on a piece of plasticard. Mixing the paint correctly seems fairly critical (I didn't do enough here as can clearly be seen) but I found for thicker lines such as window bars, very little thinner is needed with my Railmatch enamel BR blue. The large smudge was the first test; with the rule flat on the sheet, capillary action pulled the (over thinned) paint under the rule. So for the rest the rule was raised off the surface. Towards the bottom, with less thinners, the results were better with 6 lines with gaps in 5mm (with some running/splodging again, greater care with mixing the paint/thinners is needed before I try anything on a model).

20200105_113736.jpg.b443c3609de47c82f48b24796615f26d.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

I have been messing around with one of the cheap ruling pens, which arrived yesterday, on a piece of plasticard. Mixing the paint correctly seems fairly critical (I didn't do enough here as can clearly be seen) but I found for thicker lines such as window bars, very little thinner is needed with my Railmatch enamel BR blue. The large smudge was the first test; with the rule flat on the sheet, capillary action pulled the (over thinned) paint under the rule. So for the rest the rule was raised off the surface. Towards the bottom, with less thinners, the results were better with 6 lines with gaps in 5mm (with some running/splodging again, greater care with mixing the paint/thinners is needed before I try anything on a model).

20200105_113736.jpg.b443c3609de47c82f48b24796615f26d.jpg

Hi Martyn,

 

If you put some masking tape on the underside of your steel rule with its edge set back form the edge of the rule by a 1/16" or so it will form a small rebate and stop the paint from bleeding underneath via capillary action. How many strips of tape will depend on how thick the tape is to start with. Another benefit will be that it provides to an extent a non slip face to the rule, this works better with more layers of tape.

 

I'm sure you work it all out in a way that suits.

 

Gibbo.

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6 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

..... The large smudge was the first test; with the rule flat on the sheet, capillary action pulled the (over thinned) paint under the rule. So for the rest the rule was raised off the surface. Towards the bottom, with less thinners, the results were better with 6 lines with gaps in 5mm (with some running/splodging again, greater care with mixing the paint/thinners is needed before I try anything on a model).

 

Martyn,

 

That's why (most ...) rulers have a flat side and a bevelled side (or a trapezoidal shape). Flat side down you will get the capillary action problem, but bevelled side down you will not (or should not ...). Obviously this is a problem with flat steel rulers ....

 

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11 hours ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Martyn,

 

If you put some masking tape on the underside of your steel rule with its edge set back form the edge of the rule by a 1/16" or so it will form a small rebate and stop the paint from bleeding underneath via capillary action. How many strips of tape will depend on how thick the tape is to start with. Another benefit will be that it provides to an extent a non slip face to the rule, this works better with more layers of tape.

 

I'm sure you work it all out in a way that suits.

 

Gibbo.

 

7 hours ago, MJI said:

Remember as well the glazed bars are raised so try freehand as well.

 

4 hours ago, ISW said:

Martyn,

 

That's why (most ...) rulers have a flat side and a bevelled side (or a trapezoidal shape). Flat side down you will get the capillary action problem, but bevelled side down you will not (or should not ...). Obviously this is a problem with flat steel rulers ....

 

Thanks gents, 

I suspected the paint would be drawn under the steel rule when tested on the plasticard and that is exactly what happened. I considered the tape idea to lift the rule clear but found that if the windows were painted in situ, the rule was not touching the windows due to the bodyside window frames so capillary action wasn't an issue.

 

However, after the horizontals on one side of the first car had been done, I hardly used the rule at all; as Martin says, the frames are raised so it was actually easier to do the job freehand, the groove in the pen following the raised frames quite satisfactorily. Any errors were easy enough to correct with a small piece of kitchen towel and white spirit.

 

After a first pass on all 3 cars I am quite happy with the results so far, though a second pass is needed to complete the job.

20200106_000148.jpg.fa92f3874936f94e8eb508f072f9b105.jpg20200106_000210.jpg.2e4a5414bf1da95d8771c90542223009.jpg

 

Thanks for the hints and ideas.

 

Martyn.

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Probably one of the best things you could do is get a bow-compass, ie a bow pen which is attached to a compass. Replace the point on the compass with a bit of brass wire, and then you can rule lines by 'offsetting' along a known straight edge. It makes life so easy!

 

Andy G 

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The cab windscreens have now had glazing cut to size and fitted. A bead of Matt varnish was drawn around the opening and the pane added with tweezers.

20200106_161648.jpg.41a7c61d625e88f7634d40819a8a8058.jpg

 

The lavatory windows have had my usual tissue paper and varnish treatment, which I think gives a much more realistic effect than painting the glazing. The inside of the glazing was painted with acrylic matt varnish and a single layer of tissue (the type used for clothes packaging) applied to the varnish which soaks into the tissue, followed by further varnish from the rear. The rather cruel photo shows the effect when it dries.

20200106_130746.jpg.2b67916b2332de7c6306ad58c7197141.jpg

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The 107 is largely finished now, just needing some bogie footsteps and long cab door and Guards door handrails fitting; I have some Replica handrails for the latter but I expect I will solder up the footsteps from scrap brass strip and wire. A couple of Bachmann widescreen wipers were salvaged from the 105 and fitted to the 107 (only 2 of the 4 were present, which is correct for a 107, whilst a set of 4 etched ones have gone onto the 105). I'm still musing over outer couplings, screw couplings still being the favoured option.

20200107_112411.jpg.9474d1abda74cfb99bb28e3920076a75.jpg20200107_114650.jpg.29f271170dee1d4e82fe811294877ea5.jpg

 

Despite the 105 being in a bit of a state when purchased, the bags of end detail pipes etc are present in the box. I have replaced the missing underframe battery boxes and bodged some of the other minor details so the DMCL is sorted, but still need to make both the radiators which are missing from the DMBS (as seen to the right of a DMCL engine here)

20200107_120928.jpg.1b7c66f70896f227086e8fc529f32e23.jpg

Bachmann DMU underframe detail is superb I have to say, though evidently prone to damage if not treated with great respect. 

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16 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

The 107 is largely finished now, just needing some bogie footsteps and long cab door and Guards door handrails fitting; I have some Replica handrails for the latter but I expect I will solder up the footsteps from scrap brass strip and wire. A couple of Bachmann widescreen wipers were salvaged from the 105 and fitted to the 107 (only 2 of the 4 were present, which is correct for a 107, whilst a set of 4 etched ones have gone onto the 105). I'm still musing over outer couplings, screw couplings still being the favoured option.

20200107_112411.jpg.9474d1abda74cfb99bb28e3920076a75.jpg20200107_114650.jpg.29f271170dee1d4e82fe811294877ea5.jpg

 

Despite the 105 being in a bit of a state when purchased, the bags of end detail pipes etc are present in the box. I have replaced the missing underframe battery boxes and bodged some of the other minor details so the DMCL is sorted, but still need to make both the radiators which are missing from the DMBS (as seen to the right of a DMCL engine here)

20200107_120928.jpg.1b7c66f70896f227086e8fc529f32e23.jpg

Bachmann DMU underframe detail is superb I have to say, though evidently prone to damage if not treated with great respect. 

Hi Martyn,

 

They look just as good as "bought ones from a shop", but much more fun than just opening a box !!!

 

Gibbo.

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22 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

The 107 is largely finished now, just needing some bogie footsteps and long cab door and Guards door handrails fitting; I have some Replica handrails for the latter but I expect I will solder up the footsteps from scrap brass strip and wire. A couple of Bachmann widescreen wipers were salvaged from the 105 and fitted to the 107 (only 2 of the 4 were present, which is correct for a 107, whilst a set of 4 etched ones have gone onto the 105). I'm still musing over outer couplings, screw couplings still being the favoured option.

20200107_112411.jpg.9474d1abda74cfb99bb28e3920076a75.jpg20200107_114650.jpg.29f271170dee1d4e82fe811294877ea5.jpg

 

Despite the 105 being in a bit of a state when purchased, the bags of end detail pipes etc are present in the box. I have replaced the missing underframe battery boxes and bodged some of the other minor details so the DMCL is sorted, but still need to make both the radiators which are missing from the DMBS (as seen to the right of a DMCL engine here)

20200107_120928.jpg.1b7c66f70896f227086e8fc529f32e23.jpg

Bachmann DMU underframe detail is superb I have to say, though evidently prone to damage if not treated with great respect. 

Hi Martyn

 

Looking at the work you have done all I can say in my best Michael Cain impersonation "You were only meant to change the bloody cab ends".

 

It looks wonderful.

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1 hour ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Martyn,

 

They look just as good as "bought ones from a shop", but much more fun than just opening a box !!!

 

Gibbo.

Absolutely Gibbo! If I think about the time spent modifying (bodging) stuff to actually running anything, the ratio is probably (and unscientifically) about 100:1. But the value of buying a cheap secondhand model, modifying it and then thinking "I made that" does certainly outweigh any satisfaction I've ever had of just opening a box and running something, however good it is.

 

Thanks,

Martyn.

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1 hour ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Martyn

 

Looking at the work you have done all I can say in my best Michael Cain impersonation "You were only meant to change the bloody cab ends".

 

It looks wonderful.

Thanks Clive,

 

Believe me, as with the 126, there were times when I wanted to strap some explosives to it, light the fuse and stand well back! 

 

"Not a lot of people know this....."!

 

Cheers,

Martyn.

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11 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

Absolutely Gibbo! If I think about the time spent modifying (bodging) stuff to actually running anything, the ratio is probably (and unscientifically) about 100:1. But the value of buying a cheap secondhand model, modifying it and then thinking "I made that" does certainly outweigh any satisfaction I've ever had of just opening a box and running something, however good it is.

 

Thanks,

Martyn.

Hi Martyn,

 

I don't a layout currently so its all just building toy trains for me at the moment but not to worry, there will be another day for all that.

 

All the same, I know its not a bug crate but here's one I made earlier:

 

DSCF0888.JPG.693f3a0a2b045e8e16f24353119faf89.JPG

It is a Trix / Lima / Scratchbuilt class 84.

 

Gibbo.

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20 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Martyn,

 

I don't a layout currently so its all just building toy trains for me at the moment but not to worry, there will be another day for all that.

 

All the same, I know its not a bug crate but here's one I made earlier:

 

DSCF0888.JPG.693f3a0a2b045e8e16f24353119faf89.JPG

It is a Trix / Lima / Scratchbuilt class 84.

 

Gibbo.

Very nice Gibbo, I do love the older mainstream AC electrics. I repainted a Trix 81 many years ago, best running loco I had at the time. I rebuilt a Triang 81 body as an 85 too, using plasticard sides and Lima 33 bogies for power and MTK sideframes and underframe parts (when you could get these parts as spares). Sold them both off a long time ago though.

 

The only AC electric traction I have currently is the 303; if the planned c.1970 layout with overhead wires ever materialises, I can't even really justify AC locos of course, as the WCML electrification didn't reach Glasgow until the mid 70s....

20181216_151327.jpg.7dd295cbb25e79909cf697a4ef27f991.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

Very nice Gibbo, I do love the older mainstream AC electrics. I repainted a Trix 81 many years ago, best running loco I had at the time. I rebuilt a Triang 81 body as an 85 too, using plasticard sides and Lima 33 bogies for power and MTK sideframes and underframe parts (when you could get these parts as spares). Sold them both off a long time ago though.

 

The only AC electric traction I have currently is the 303; if the planned c.1970 layout with overhead wires ever materialises, I can't even really justify AC locos of course, as the WCML electrification didn't reach Glasgow until the mid 70s....

20181216_151327.jpg.7dd295cbb25e79909cf697a4ef27f991.jpg

Hi Martyn,

 

Not to worry, in the early 1970's the class 84's would have been in store at Bury (26D) pending refurbishment along with the class 83's. My idea of a good layout is Preston area in 1974 which is why I've only got one D400, I have plenty of DMU's, 40's and Roarers though.

 

Gibbo.

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30 minutes ago, GordonC said:

Lovely Class 303 model there!

 

were early AC electrics not tested on the Gourock / Weymss Bay lines earlier than the northern WCML electrification scheme?

Thanks Gordon.

I'm not aware of any AC electrics being tested on the Glasgow area pre WCML electrification, as parts of the system were only 6.25kV AC due to insulation issues (the 303's being able to run off 6.25kV and 25kV), although iirc prototype E2001 was used for static load bank testing at one location on a specially constructed siding at an early stage. Even the Glasgow North and South side electrified areas were not originally connected, requiring units to be diesel hauled between the 2 when required.

 

However if there is evidence they did, I'm all ears!

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On 07/01/2020 at 15:43, Signaller69 said:

Thanks Gordon.

I'm not aware of any AC electrics being tested on the Glasgow area pre WCML electrification, as parts of the system were only 6.25kV AC due to insulation issues (the 303's being able to run off 6.25kV and 25kV), although iirc prototype E2001 was used for static load bank testing at one location on a specially constructed siding at an early stage. Even the Glasgow North and South side electrified areas were not originally connected, requiring units to be diesel hauled between the 2 when required.

 

However if there is evidence they did, I'm all ears!

 

Evidence of AC electrics running on the South SIde as requested http://www.scot-rail.co.uk/photo/scaled/343/ E3008 on driver training runs at Port Glasgow in June 1973, I have seen another one at Fort Matilda.  The runs were between Shields Road and Weymss Bay or Greenock Ladyburn.  REgarding the 6.25kV one of the early conversions to 25kV was the western flank of the Cathcart Circle to allow further trainng runs off the WCML to access Glasgow Central and Shields Depot, as the paved track at Eglinton Street Tunnel was not completed to the expect timescale.

The "siding" that prototype E2001was placed on was an unconnected length of track at Coatbridge Sunnyside Staiton (not my photo)

 

 

Jim

 

640x431_e20001 at sunnyside jn coatbridge.jpg

Edited by luckymucklebackit
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10 minutes ago, luckymucklebackit said:

 

Evidence of AC electrics running on the South SIde as requested http://www.scot-rail.co.uk/photo/scaled/343/ E3008 on driver training runs at Port Glasgow in June 1973, I have seen another one at Fort Matilda.  The runs were between Shields Road and Weymss Bay or Greenock Ladyburn.  REgarding the 6.25kV one of the early conversions to 25kV was the western flank of the Cathcart Circle to allow further trainng runs off the WCML to access Glasgow Central and Shields Depot, as the paved track at Eglinton Street Tunnel was not completed to the expect timescale.

The "siding" that prototype E2001was placed on was an unconnected length of track at Coatbridge Sunnyside Staiton (not my photo)

 

 

Jim

 

640x431_e20001 at sunnyside jn coatbridge.jpg

Thanks Jim,

so an 81 could be justified then at least! 

I knew there had been discussion about E2001 on its "siding" a while back, but I couldn't find reference for it anywhere, thanks for the reminder.

Hope you are well.

 

Kind regards,

Martyn. 

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2 hours ago, luckymucklebackit said:

 

Evidence of AC electrics running on the South SIde as requested http://www.scot-rail.co.uk/photo/scaled/343/ E3008 on driver training runs at Port Glasgow in June 1973, I have seen another one at Fort Matilda.  The runs were between Shields Road and Weymss Bay or Greenock Ladyburn.  REgarding the 6.25kV one of the early conversions to 25kV was the western flank of the Cathcart Circle to allow further trainng runs off the WCML to access Glasgow Central and Shields Depot, as the paved track at Eglinton Street Tunnel was not completed to the expect timescale.

The "siding" that prototype E2001was placed on was an unconnected length of track at Coatbridge Sunnyside Staiton (not my photo)

 

 

Jim

 

640x431_e20001 at sunnyside jn coatbridge.jpg

Who takes a photo of a feeder station with that lovely portal and doesn't move the dead loco first. :nono:

 

1173759878_25kvmk1portalpowerfeedheadstonelanerm.png.07ecd78a51508bf9238b84cabc06783a.png

 

I do like a nice bit of OLE.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Thanks Jim,

so an 81 could be justified then at least! 

I knew there had been discussion about E2001 on its "siding" a while back, but I couldn't find reference for it anywhere, thanks for the reminder.

Hope you are well.

 

Kind regards,

Martyn. 

Hi Martyn,

 

Silver fox do a resin kit for the Metropolitan Vickers class 80 that was converted form a GWR gas turbine, these may be found on eBay. There are occasionally Trix class 81 body shells and non runners for sale but a good one will be around £200.

 

Gibbo.

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8 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Who takes a photo of a feeder station with that lovely portal and doesn't move the dead loco first. :nono:

 

1173759878_25kvmk1portalpowerfeedheadstonelanerm.png.07ecd78a51508bf9238b84cabc06783a.png

 

I do like a nice bit of OLE.

 

 

Hi Clive,

Even my soldering iron has a headache just looking at that......:mocking_mini:

 

5 hours ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Martyn,

 

Silver fox do a resin kit for the Metropolitan Vickers class 80 that was converted form a GWR gas turbine, these may be found on eBay. There are occasionally Trix class 81 body shells and non runners for sale but a good one will be around £200.

 

Gibbo.

The class 80 is probably a little early for my needs, but a pre TOPS class 81 (or 85 perhaps) might tickle my fancy at some point, but the intended layout is not even "nearly thought about", to adjust your phrase!

 

Thanks,

Martyn.

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Very little modelling time this week; I need to get hold of some brass strip to fabricate the various DMU footsteps required.

 

So I decided to build the second Dapol Presflo wagon for "Dunnington", which has had the same treatment as the first which was started some time back. Just the ladders and roof catwalks to add now. I was hoping to find an etched kit for the latter but nothing has come to light thus far so I may have to use the Dapol parts in order to get them finished and painted.

20200117_220745.jpg.2339e95f0307dc02154201142c7cc65f.jpg

The first wagon had the kit buffers tweaked while the second has LMS early Presflo buffers fitted.

20200117_220620.jpg.acb984bfde0451440c4591089c22ca87.jpg

Peco NEM coupler pocket adapter plates were fitted to both. I also added the kit Vacuum Pipes and coupling hooks, adapted slightly.

20200117_220832.jpg.c968925e19d5375df521031fad55cf6d.jpg20200117_150125.jpg.3c2a5dad26de93c1e6dd2911215595fd.jpg

As can be seen, the bodies and chassis were built as separate sub assemblies for ease of spraying, which caused a couple of headaches around fitting the end support plates (due to all the angled surfaces) during assembly.

 

I hope to get them painted this weekend.

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