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1 hour ago, Signaller69 said:

Are you thinking doing more of those you have already done, or something not already covered?

 

No idea, just thinking what ran on WR.

 

Why do you want some sides?

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1 hour ago, MJI said:

 

No idea, just thinking what ran on WR.

 

Why do you want some sides?

I don't have any plans currently for more units but if that changes I will let you know Martin. I was just thinking with your ability to cut sides out as and when needed, it would be easy to make several of the same type, if you have suitable donors.

 

Cheers,

Martyn.

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6123 finds itself in the works once again (not unlike the prototype I understand), owing to a shoddy nose end paint job last time round, which has irked me ever since. Modelstrip has got rid of most of the old paint but I didn't want to use anything harsher due to the many bits stuck on (as "fussy" front ends go, this one is right up there.....); I still managed to dislodge a marker light and headcode disc, as well as pushing a windscreen in though, and further work is needed before any new paint is applied.20210506_071024.jpg.e80ad4219304262208305064aa7e2acb.jpg

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That really does bring back memories of Works trips c.1970, with locos looking a right mess prior to being repainted.

 

Thankfully the spotters can still find the number on this one!

 

John.

Edited by John Tomlinson
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4 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

That really does bring back memories of Works trips c.1970, with locos looking a right mess prior to being repainted.

 

Thankfully the spotters can still find the number on this one!

 

John.

Hi John,

I sometimes have the urge to model the interior of Glasgow works, just for this reason - to photograph "works in progress"!

 

Martyn.

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As well as the yellow ends, the greens are being touched up and a new all over coat of varnish will be applied before refitting the windscreens and wipers. This time the bufferbeams have been painted black vice red, as carried by mid 1970. This loco seems unusual in having a black central roof section, perhaps as it was the first 29 conversion carried out.

20210512_073039.jpg.bdf130f4a1a87613511b2ff87df5ce6e.jpg

 

Elsewhere, more silicone rubber and some black PU resin has been ordered for some more bits I have in mind to cast.

Edited by Signaller69
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Another rolling stock upgrade project has been started, in the form of adding hopper bottoms to my rake of Bachmann / Liliput BRT Grain hoppers. This will involve fitting finer brake detail too, but the first task is to make a master for the hopper bottom, so resin castings can be produced to speed the process up. First task was to remove the rather basic trapezoid plastic ribs which pass for this area, along with unwanted "below solebar" detail:

20210513_012348.jpg.3c7b464c917e9135db95b13c0ceb04b9.jpg

 

After taking some measurements a 40mm x 28mm rectangular piece of plasticard was scored and cut as per this diagram:

20210513_013910.jpg.b9bd49450ffd90c45b90c437c7c28494.jpg

Shaded parts were removed, so that when folded to shape and glued it gives a base footprint approx 35mm x 21mm thus:20210513_012402.jpg.268a2d5622d6c9f48329d0121a506426.jpg

After filling and sanding the corners, further strapping detail etc will be added. The sliding discharge hatch detail will be made separately for casting purposes, which will sit on the flat hopper bottom.

 

I hope to get more done over the weekend (along with finishing the class 29 off). Thanks for looking.

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9 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

20210513_012402.jpg.268a2d5622d6c9f48329d0121a506426.jpg

 

Martyn,

 

'Interesting' couplings on that wagon. Are they Bachmann 'kadee clones' in Kadee #5 housings? If so, what Bachmann 'kadees' are they, as I only know of their NEM type.

And I approve of the screw attachment for the Kadees. Much neater than glue.

Ian

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9 hours ago, ISW said:

Martyn,

 

'Interesting' couplings on that wagon. Are they Bachmann 'kadee clones' in Kadee #5 housings? If so, what Bachmann 'kadees' are they, as I only know of their NEM type.

And I approve of the screw attachment for the Kadees. Much neater than glue.

Ian

Hello Ian,

The couplings were either Model Power or Bachmann plastic "Kadee clones" (with moulded on centring springs), in No.232 coupler boxes (for No.5's as you say), on account of their relative low price when I bought them. 

 

I also dislike glue as a method of fixing them as there is precious little surface area for glue to "take". This wagon uses Kadee no.256 nylon screws; their drill and tap set no.246 was a most worthwhile investment for such jobs. Being plastic based, any excess screw length can easily be trimmed off, yet they are plenty strong enough for the purpose.

20210513_204026.jpg.c516617682a341b9fd13caedeeea7166.jpg

 

Martyn.

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18 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

This wagon uses Kadee no.256 nylon screws; their drill and tap set no.246 was a most worthwhile investment for such jobs. Being plastic based, any excess screw length can easily be trimmed off, yet they are plenty strong enough for the purpose.

20210513_204026.jpg.c516617682a341b9fd13caedeeea7166.jpg

 

Martyn.

Martyn,

 

Thanks for the information as I'm learning something new here; the Kadee #256 screws. I've seen them referenced on my Kadee packets, but never seen /  used them! I'm just using No.0 screws from ModelFixings.com (no affiliation ...) for which I usually drill a ~0.5mm hole. A bit harder to cut to length though, being metal, than the Kadee #256, but the head is a bit smaller. If space is really tight, I use countersink screws, as these can be almost flush with the draft box.

 

Ian

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On 06/05/2021 at 16:23, Signaller69 said:

Hi John,

I sometimes have the urge to model the interior of Glasgow works, just for this reason - to photograph "works in progress"!

 

Martyn.

 

Just for comparison with the real thing in similar condition.....FB_IMG_1620936433875.jpg.333a7666766b3eec52232b548f9f6ba6.jpg

 

Seen on Facebook today.

 

Jim

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3 minutes ago, ISW said:

Martyn,

 

Thanks for the information as I'm learning something new here; the Kadee #256 screws. I've seen them referenced on my Kadee packets, but never seen /  used them! I'm just using No.0 screws from ModelFixings.com (no affiliation ...) for which I usually drill a ~0.5mm hole. A bit harder to cut to length though, being metal, than the Kadee #256, but the head is a bit smaller. If space is really tight, I use countersink screws, as these can be almost flush with the draft box.

 

Ian

The only downside to the no.256 screws, being nylon, is you need the correct tap of course. I also use various metal self tapping screws, such as those used to hold Oxford diecast models to their bases.

 

Martyn.

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4 minutes ago, luckymucklebackit said:

 

Just for comparison with the real thing in similar condition.....FB_IMG_1620936433875.jpg.333a7666766b3eec52232b548f9f6ba6.jpg

 

Seen on Facebook today.

 

Jim

Hi Jim,

That looks much neater than mine, but then it was new at the time presumably! 

 

Thanks,

Martyn.

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30 minutes ago, luckymucklebackit said:

 

Just for comparison with the real thing in similar condition.....FB_IMG_1620936433875.jpg.333a7666766b3eec52232b548f9f6ba6.jpg

 

Seen on Facebook today.

 

Jim

Hi Jim,

 

Ha ! Ha!   Large logo livery ?

 

Gibbo.

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The BRT hopper parts are more or less ready to have a mould taken.20210517_170425.jpg.7b6753d96b8080073b3678b43da87743.jpg

 

20210517_170447.jpg.33def638f6ec1a57b2c2cefaeda4777f.jpg

 

The protrusions at each end line up with the chassis V hangers and will have a brake linkage between them, which I'm also hoping to cast with the hopper parts. A piece of handrail wire will be threaded through small holes across the sliding hatch to allow etched hand wheels to be fitted; once the mould is made, a piece of similar wire will be inserted in the mould before pouring the resin in.

 

And the parts in situ; the handbrake V hangers line up with those on the hopper.

20210517_170645.jpg.ac13cdd721c8e7d807c308451323a6c2.jpg

 

I have also removed the plastic brake blocks from this chassis and added cast brake shoes in line with the wheels as part of the upgrade.

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The brake linkage has been assembled although I'm not overly confident it will translate well to a resin copy. It and the hopper parts are now in a mould box, just waiting for a few more bits to be added.20210519_161840.jpg.20262395804ff566f77a0c52a050d23f.jpg

The hopper discharge gate has had handrail wire threaded through as per my previous post; a slit either side will need to be cut into the mould to release this and allow fresh wire to be inserted when a cast is made.

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With the mould made I have done a couple of test pours this morning to break the moulds in, see where air bubbles form etc.

20210520_153310.jpg.1fecd7affe3e581e85b615b22311ab63.jpg

The lowest points of the mould (the V hangers of the hopper) proved the worst for air bubbles as expected so these will receive extra poking with a fine wire going forward. Getting the wire to stay in place on the bottom hatch has proved difficult so far so the mould has had a couple of small cuts made to provide more "meat" for resin to grip the wire. The brake linkage is very fragile, again as expected, as can be seen one end came away during flash removal. A piece of handrail wire bent to shape will be added when the resin is poured to add a little more strength next time.

Other scenic items in the mould came out quite well, again air bubble removal is the key when pouring but so far so good.

20210520_153353.jpg.d5e64a14c649dcea0dd51c7552e11d05.jpg

 

Really pleased with these pairs of tramway brick wagons which are a wagon load idea for another project.20210520_153434.jpg.b8bbc2a115a1af0fc2690a3d7e9dfe31.jpg

 

20210520_153519.jpg.7a155cc7cf2a1e13bc75ac321ef05026.jpg

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Hi

 

I’ve found filling the lower parts first and then leaving for a bit while filling other parts of the mould before going back seems to stop the air bubbles forming in the lower parts.

 

I found poking around with wire tended to introduce more air bubbles however the items I was casting were probably smaller than your items.

 

N Gauge GPS25 bogies

BD52CB76-7CFF-46DD-ADBD-E11867FC410D.png.627bfd9940d2dac9fec99758168b26c8.png

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Edited by PaulCheffus
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4 hours ago, PaulCheffus said:

Hi

 

I’ve found filling the lower parts first and then leaving for a bit while filling other parts of the mould before going back seems to stop the air bubbles forming in the lower parts.

 

I found poking around with wire tended to introduce more air bubbles however the items I was casting were probably smaller than your items.

 

N Gauge GPS25 bogies

BD52CB76-7CFF-46DD-ADBD-E11867FC410D.png.627bfd9940d2dac9fec99758168b26c8.png

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, those bogies are superb.

 

I have used the part fill technique when doing some DMU engines and agree it really helps remove air bubbles where there are numerous small indentations and angles (exhaust outlets etc).

 

I find workable time of the resin is the main obstacle to removing all air bubbles. The wire is inserted only once and poked around the lower recesses and all edges and generally works well for me, but with several items in the mould the 3 minutes (which includes mixing and pouring of course) just isn't enough to be thorough. The latest casts were mainly to break the new mould in, using a small quantity of resin I had left. The black resin for the next batches (with DMU underframe parts in mind) has a workable time of 6 minutes which should help no end.

 

Cheers,

Martyn.

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Hi Martyn,

 

I have recently been looking at how concrete terrazzo table tops are made, the table tops are cast in a mould mounted on top of a vibrating table. Some of them are home made affairs mounted on top of four orbital sanders that jiggle it all about to raise the bubbles.

 

A single sander might be worth a go with your small moulds, a bit of masking tape might hold it a together. You surely can't make as much mess a did a friend of mine once did stirring a tin of Humbrol dirty black using a bent paper clip and a Black and Decker.

 

Gibbo.

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55 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Martyn,

 

I have recently been looking at how concrete terrazzo table tops are made, the table tops are cast in a mould mounted on top of a vibrating table. Some of them are home made affairs mounted on top of four orbital sanders that jiggle it all about to raise the bubbles.

 

A single sander might be worth a go with your small moulds, a bit of masking tape might hold it a together. You surely can't make as much mess a did a friend of mine once did stirring a tin of Humbrol dirty black using a bent paper clip and a Black and Decker.

 

Gibbo.

Hi Gibbo,

I'm not sure, PU resin is the Devil's own formulation when it spills, it just has time to run everywhere under gravity before setting firm to whatever it is touching, forget any hope of cleaning it off a table cloth, or anything else for that matter, even soft plastics that no glue known to man will adhere too (guess how I found out!).

Putting the mould on top of a washing machine on a spin cycle while the resin sets helps remove the air bubbles in much the same way you describe, hopefully with less risk of redistributing the contents!

 

Martyn.

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