Signaller69's projects

[Darius43]

15 hours ago, Jack374 said:

Hi Martyn,

 

I've not found a match for Rail Blue or BR Blue either, however for warning panel yellow I find Halfords' 'Rover Inca Yellow' a good match. With any colour which is close, using a different colour base coat/primer (common ones being white, grey or red oxide) will give different shades. For example, I use a light mist of red oxide before applying the Inca Yellow to give a bit more 'warmth', but experimentation will show whether this is needed.

 

Good luck!

 

Jack.

Halfords Vauxhall Mustard Yellow is my preference for warning yellow but it is a very subjective issue.  If you look hard enough at all the yellow rattle can tops in the Halfords display they start to look the same.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

[Legend]

2 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Having dug out my collection of Trix coach remains I happily have enough bits to do the second Trailer Composite; the corridor side has been assembled using the original as a template. It needs the small windows either side of the centre door reducing in size and a strip along the bottom edge to give the correct depth, as well as some filler over the joins.

 

Deeply envious of your Trix Coach carving abilities . It does seem to be the best basis so far of getting a 126. I might even be tempted to give it a go , but its the cab ends of the DMBS that I think is the biggest challenge

 

These are my favourite units , having ridden on them extensively between Paisley and Glasgow , along with 303/311 emus . Happy days

[leopardml2341]

1 hour ago, Legend said:

 

Deeply envious of your Trix Coach carving abilities . It does seem to be the best basis so far of getting a 126. I might even be tempted to give it a go......

If you do and you need some Trix coaches to butcher - PM me

[turbos]

2 hours ago, Legend said:

 

Deeply envious of your Trix Coach carving abilities . It does seem to be the best basis so far of getting a 126. I might even be tempted to give it a go , but its the cab ends of the DMBS that I think is the biggest challenge

 

These are my favourite units , having ridden on them extensively between Paisley and Glasgow , along with 303/311 emus . Happy days

Craftsman did a brass Swindon style cab end, they occasionally appear on online auction sites.

 

Brian.

[Signaller69]

4 hours ago, Legend said:

 

Deeply envious of your Trix Coach carving abilities . It does seem to be the best basis so far of getting a 126. I might even be tempted to give it a go , but its the cab ends of the DMBS that I think is the biggest challenge

 

These are my favourite units , having ridden on them extensively between Paisley and Glasgow , along with 303/311 emus . Happy days

The DMSLi are the easiest place to start, use a Trix buffet car and the number of cuts needed is quite small, just to replace the buffet parts with second class spaces windows from another vehicle, plus extending the Lavatory end and then adding a strip along the entire bottom edge to deepen the sides slightly and add strength. Then drill and file driving cab windows in one end. That is a slightly simplistic description I grant you, but accurate, square cuts are the only real challenge I found. How far you want to go is up to you of course. Sourcing the chassis first is the best way so fitting can be planned as you go along - an unpowered Lima 117 chassis is probably the simplest option for the DMSLi; the motor bogie can be completely concealed in the brake end in the DMBSL which is best tackled later.

 

The full cab of the latter can be fashioned from a single flat piece of plasticard, scored to quarters with a very shallow V removed across the top quarters intersection allowing slight bends to be induced along each score line. This "blank" was glued to the body before the windows were drilled and filed out.

 

The only advice is to use as many photos as you can for reference and measure twice, cut once of course!

 

If you decide to have a go and need any specific advice or measurements from my efforts, drop me a line.

 

Martyn.

[GordonC]

Sorry if its a dense question, but do the Trix coaches give a better starting point than say Bachmann or recent Hornby Mk1s for cutting and shutting into a Class 126? are the Trix coaches not underscale like the Trans-Pennine DMU model?

[turbos]

The underscale (3.8mmish) Trix Mk1 has the correct window spacing for a 4mm Class126, other makes of Mk1 coaches have the correct window spacing for Mk1 coaches.
The Class 126 (and 79xxx Swindon inter city) had compressed window spacing. A cab, 8 bays of seats, 3 vestibules and toilets were all fitted on a 63’ underframe for an iDMSL for example. Hope that helps.

 

Brian.

[Clive Mortimore]

10 hours ago, Legend said:

 

Deeply envious of your Trix Coach carving abilities . It does seem to be the best basis so far of getting a 126. I might even be tempted to give it a go , but its the cab ends of the DMBS that I think is the biggest challenge

 

These are my favourite units , having ridden on them extensively between Paisley and Glasgow , along with 303/311 emus . Happy days

Hi Legend

 

Plastic card is the answer.

[Signaller69]

12 hours ago, GordonC said:

Sorry if its a dense question, but do the Trix coaches give a better starting point than say Bachmann or recent Hornby Mk1s for cutting and shutting into a Class 126? are the Trix coaches not underscale like the Trans-Pennine DMU model?

Not sure if they are a "better" starting point as such, but as Turbos said the class 126 window spacing and size is slightly smaller than that of a Mk.1, so the Trix spacing makes life easier to produce the DMSLi and DMBSL. In just about every other respect though, if you can live with slightly-too-big windows and a lot more cutting, Bachmann coaches might offer a "better/simpler" route, including the flush glazing of course, but would make the project more costly. The body profile is slightly out too whichever route you take so there will always be compromise. Triang coach shells with Trix sides is another option (I think Clive is using this method). 

 

Martyn.

[Clive Mortimore]

4 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Not sure if they are a "better" starting point as such, but as Turbos said the class 126 window spacing and size is slightly smaller than that of a Mk.1, so the Trix spacing makes life easier to produce the DMSLi and DMBSL. In just about every other respect though, if you can live with slightly-too-big windows and a lot more cutting, Bachmann coaches might offer a "better/simpler" route, including the flush glazing of course, but would make the project more costly. The body profile is slightly out too whichever route you take so there will always be compromise. Triang coach shells with Trix sides is another option (I think Clive is using this method). 

 

Martyn.

Further to Martyn's post, with converting coaches to DMUs be they mainline or DMUs there is a degree of compromise. All the Swindon built units looked like Mk1s, with a different profile and window size. In my pile of started and to be finished one day are the above Glasgow- Edinburgh set (Trix bodies with bits of Tri-ang on Tri-ang chassis) these have almost the right window size and spacing on the motor coaches but the wrong profile, WR 4 car Inter-city and 6 car Transpennine (Tri-ang coaches) wrong profile and window size and Swindon 3 car Cross Country (Mainline Mk1 coaches) wrong profile right sized windows and like the Trix coaches need a strip of plasticard along the bottom of the body to increase the height. All are not too advanced for me to alter the profile, and I could add a millimeter of plastic card to the bottom of the windows of the all Tri-ang coaches. Last year I experimented with trying to improve the profile of a Thompson TSO conversion I done from Tri-ang Thompson's (with MK 1 profiles) by filing a slight turnunder. Still not 100% right but has a better appearance, so I might do the same to my Swindon units, thankfully all makes of RTR coaches have thick enough sides to do this to.

 

 

 

[Legend]

16 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Legend

 

Plastic card is the answer.

looks good Clive . A couple of questions , if I may . What chassis did you use and how do you attach body to it . Second one is how did you get the roof curve on the DMBS ?   
 

I’ve only done very rudimentary conversions , but 126s (Appreciating yours are the early Edinburgh - Glasgow  or Western Region versions)  are one of my favourite units. And I think there really is no chance of a RTR model or anything approaching it .  So have been tempted for a while . Definitely lacking confidence , but then why not , what harm is there in trying .

[Clive Mortimore]

1 hour ago, Legend said:

looks good Clive . A couple of questions , if I may . What chassis did you use and how do you attach body to it . Second one is how did you get the roof curve on the DMBS ?   
 

I’ve only done very rudimentary conversions , but 126s (Appreciating yours are the early Edinburgh - Glasgow  or Western Region versions)  are one of my favourite units. And I think there really is no chance of a RTR model or anything approaching it .  So have been tempted for a while . Definitely lacking confidence , but then why not , what harm is there in trying .

Hi Legend

 

The chassis are Tri-ang, the reconstructed body sides have a strip of plastic card behind them to drop into the channel on the chassis the same a a Tri-ang coach body.  The cab roof of the DMBS is made from laminated plastic card. Hard to describe but I mark a copy of the drawing I am using with 1mm lines, in this case as it dome shaped on both the side and end views. I measure where the lines I have marked cross the curve on the drawing and that gives me the width and the length of that layer. Once the glue for each layer has set I then file off the square edges until the shape is arrived at. Any gaps then I use some Miliput to fill them.

 

I hope these two photos help to describe what I do.

 

Edit, Whoops forgot to give credit to Gerald Scarborough, who used the same method to make a turret for a T16 Staghound armoured car in a 1973 Airfix magazine.

 

Edited May 30, 2020 by Clive Mortimore

[Signaller69]

The second (lavatory) side is now assembled, and the extra strip added along the bottom edge of both sides as per previous vehicles. Shown with a Trix shell, which will supply ends and roof for my method, and a salvaged Replica Mk.1 underframe left from my 303 build, which I have decided to use with new bolsters for the Hornby 121 bogies, instead of butchering a Lima 101 Trailer chassis.

 

To add to Clives method above (thanks Clive), I tackled the front cab roof of my full cab car following Brian Kirby's method of using spare roof parts cut to fit across the front, which should be apparent from this photo of my DMBSL build, along with the one piece plasticard cab front blank described a few posts back.

And after drilling & filing windows, adding details and painting:

[turbos]

22 hours ago, GordonC said:

Sorry if its a dense question, but do the Trix coaches give a better starting point than say Bachmann or recent Hornby Mk1s for cutting and shutting into a Class 126? are the Trix coaches not underscale like the Trans-Pennine DMU model?

Further to my earlier a reply, here is a pic that hopefully explains it better. The top coach is a Bachmann Mk1 TSO, the drawing is a 4mm scale drawing of a Class 126 iDMSL and the coach side is from a Trix Mk1 RMB. 
 

Brian.

[Signaller69]

1 minute ago, turbos said:

Further to my earlier a reply, here is a pic that hopefully explains it better. The top coach is a Bachmann Mk1 TSO, the drawing is a 4mm scale drawing of a Class 126 iDMSL and the coach side is from a Trix Mk1 RMB. 
 

Brian.

Thanks Brian, classic case of a picture being better than words!

 

Martyn.

[Legend]

4 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Legend

 

The chassis are Tri-ang, the reconstructed body sides have a strip of plastic card behind them to drop into the channel on the chassis the same a a Tri-ang coach body.  The cab roof of the DMBS is made from laminated plastic card. Hard to describe but I mark a copy of the drawing I am using with 1mm lines, in this case as it dome shaped on both the side and end views. I measure where the lines I have marked cross the curve on the drawing and that gives me the width and the length of that layer. Once the glue for each layer has set I then file off the square edges until the shape is arrived at. Any gaps then I use some Miliput to fill them.

 

I hope these two photos help to describe what I do.

 

Edit, Whoops forgot to give credit to Gerald Scarborough, who used the same method to make a turret for a T16 Staghound armoured car in a 1973 Airfix magazine.

 

Thanks Clive , that’s a great description of your technique . Apologies to Signaller 69 for hijacking his thread . Your cab ends on the Ayrshire unit look superb . 

Edited May 30, 2020 by Legend
Appalling typing

[Signaller69]

58 minutes ago, Legend said:

Thanks Clive , that’s a great description of your technique . Ap;ogives to Signaller 69 for hijacking his thread . Your can ends on the Ayrshire unit look superb . 

No problem at all, discussion is welcomed, it's always good to see different "how to" solutions I think.

[Clive Mortimore]

2 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

No problem at all, discussion is welcomed, it's always good to see different "how to" solutions I think.

Hi Martyn

 

Is that the vegan friendly way of saying "there is more than one way to skin a cat"?

 

There are always different ways of making models, some work for me, some do not, some work for others but my methods do not. There  are even cheeky people like Dagworth who develop my (well the one I copied) method and use alternative colours for the laminates when making curved surfaces as he finds it easier. I really enjoy seeing how other people achieve their goals in model making. Some I even try, and I am always thinking of and trying new things myself.

 

One thing we all mustn't get hung up on is "This is the way Fred Bloggs makes it and that is the only way to do it". I had a chap when I demoing at a show tell me I was scratchbuilding a model diesel wrong as I wasn't doing how Clive Mortimore described how to make them in DEMUs Update magazine. My mate did reassure me I was still Clive and my DEMU name badge still had my name on it.

 

Look at alternative methods and give one or two ago, see what works. Don't become disappointed with cock-ups but use them as learning opportunities. 

 

Or just wait for that better RTR one to arrive.

Edited May 30, 2020 by Clive Mortimore

[Signaller69]

16 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Martyn

 

Is that the vegan friendly way of saying "there is more than one way to skin a cat"?

 

There are always different ways of making models, some work for me, some do not, some work for others but my methods do not. There  are even cheeky people like Dagworth who develop my (well the one I copied) method and use alternative colours for the laminates when making curved surfaces as he finds it easier. I really enjoy seeing how other people achieve their goals in model making. Some I even try, and I am always thinking of and trying new things myself.

 

One thing we all mustn't get hung up on is "This is the way Fred Bloggs makes it and that is the only way to do it". I had a chap when I demoing at a show tell me I was scratchbuilding a model diesel wrong as I wasn't doing how Clive Mortimore described how to make them in DEMUs Update magazine. My mate did reassure me I was still Clive and my DEMU name badge still had my name on it.

 

Look at alternative methods and give one or two ago, see what works. Don't become disappointed with cock-ups but use them as learning opportunities. 

 

Or just wait for that better RTR one to arrive.

I think that puts it rather well Clive (or is it Clive, I'm not sure now after reading that...)

 

For Class 123/124 there are kit and RTR options but the 126 there is nothing afaik. I wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult for an enterprising manufacturer to offer 3 vehicles, even if sides or sides and ends only, but we are where we are I guess....

[MJI]

I think Worsley Works MAY do them

[Signaller69]

1 hour ago, MJI said:

I think Worsley Works MAY do them

They only list the Class 123/124 on their website, although they do say they may be able to do others if you can supply details. I am currently awaiting a set of Class 100 sides & ends from them.

[turbos]

Silver Fox have done a kit for a Class 126 and a 79xxx i/c, although It’s not on their website they very occasionally appear in their EBay shop.

 

Brian.

[Signaller69]

33 minutes ago, turbos said:

Silver Fox have done a kit for a Class 126 and a 79xxx i/c, although It’s not on their website they very occasionally appear in their EBay shop.

 

Brian.

 Thanks Brian, that does ring a bell. I was looking at their Class 120 on the website the other day as it happens. I do recall seeing a 126 on Ebay a while back which said it was kit built. I have in my mind that MTK did one years ago, and possibly Anbrico before that.

 

Cheers,

Martyn.

[Signaller69]

The basic body shell is complete. The spare Replica chassis turned out to be just right, requiring less work than a Lima centre car chassis.

The Trix bufferbeams were trimmed and glued into place as seen (minus buffer heads) and plasticard blanks glued in place of the missing bogie pivots, with new holes drilled at 46' 6" centres for the Hornby 121 dummy bogies, which were clipped into place. After having the edges sanded slightly to compensate for the now thicker body sides ends, the Trix coach ends were screwed loosely into place over a plasticard shim, the sides plonked on and the roof, suitably cut & shut with a spare section, clipped on.

I always find a strange satisfaction in the "multi coloured swap shop" appearance at this stage. The fit of all the parts is very good thus far, all things considered. Even the ride height is almost spot on, compared with my original build.

 It has been a reasonably quick exercise to get to this stage; time for contemplation now as the next stage involves mostly filling and sanding to get the bodysides sorted and fixed to the ends, plus all the Trix roof detail removed and new vents etc fitted, followed by removing the unwanted chassis trussing along with most of the full length footboards and fitting new underframe equipment.

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

It's looking all too familiar, you're not related to Clive are you?!!

 

Mike.