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16 hours ago, ISW said:

Martyn,

 

Indeed. A nice goopy Superglue is preferable to the runny stuff for that step.

 

Ian

 

13 hours ago, crompton 33 said:

Hi martyn . I've converted 4 of my loco's to C D rom drive . Used the 9 volt one as i use Analogue not had a problem in 4 years they run nice and slow.  used epoxy to fix them in .  The one's i got had the pinion gear fitted to them . Alf

 

Thanks chaps, useful info. I might add one to my 'to do list' as I have a spare motor bogie.

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Posted (edited)

Glazing, handrails, headcodes, end pipework and some base weathering added.

20200812_104350.jpg.9967324d69d25d7ce93b557a73a52f21.jpg

Still need to add the pickups and wiring on the dummy bogie. 

I have some boiler grille blanking covers to add too, once painted.

 

Prototype photo for interest here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/41460197890/

 

Edited by Signaller69
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5 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Glazing, handrails, headcodes, end pipework and some base weathering added.

20200812_104350.jpg.9967324d69d25d7ce93b557a73a52f21.jpg

Still need to add the pickups and wiring on the dummy bogie. 

I have some boiler grille blanking covers to add too, once painted.

 

Prototype photo for interest here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/41460197890/

 

Martyn,

 

Would that be SE Finecast glazing? Is has their 'look'.

 

Do you happen to know if the Hornby Class 25 perspex moulding still fits inside after your glazing? That'd make conversion just that bit easier.

 

 

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47 minutes ago, ISW said:

Martyn,

 

Would that be SE Finecast glazing? Is has their 'look'.

 

Do you happen to know if the Hornby Class 25 perspex moulding still fits inside after your glazing? That'd make conversion just that bit easier.

 

 

Ian,

It is indeed the SEF product. I previously used it on the 24/1 and found the fit better/easier than some others in the range. One pack will do 1.5 locos by the way, as long as none get damaged during fitting...might be handy for anyone with 3 locos to do! (And bizarrely, also includes alternative centre windows for anyone doing a 25/3 conversion).

 

As for using the perspex glazing, I've no idea on fit with the SEF sorry as mine went in the bin to leave more space for weight in the centre. I'm guessing it would be tight due to the fitted shape around the cab doors (a consideration if fitting separate handrails too) but might be possible.

 

Martyn.

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Had a few days break in Whitby with my good lady, we did a fair bit of walking including over and under the disused Larpool Viaduct, which is quite an impressive structure of c. 5 million bricks. 

20200818_123938.jpg.7b64de377fd34b9623c914aa2daefeea.jpg20200818_124139.jpg.d8be9b06f6d34603285afbb3be91aa64.jpg

 

I was lucky to grab a few photos of the first steam run of the appropriately titled, new NYMR "Optimist" service leaving Whitby on Monday.

20200817_164020_012.jpg.ed1a41f95bd9fdccd568f35f38804da0.jpg20200817_164031_001.jpg.8133a17b815c873aa84da850ad1fe369.jpg

Sadly this can only be joined at Pickering so we couldn't partake this time.

 

A nice break from the stresses of life all the same!

 

Martyn.

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The are a couple of notable defects visible when you are on top of the viaduct. I think the railway's engineers had it all well under control. I suspect thing's will progress until drastic action is required.

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Posted (edited)

Onward with some modelling. A slight disaster with varnish lifting the lining on the "Peak" means it will now get a full respray, it will probably be economy green with small yellow ends, but I'm not ruling out Rail blue either. "Model Strip" has been applied to remove said lining and touched up paintwork, back to the factory finish. The fan grille had been removed ready for fitting the etched Shawplan one prior to the Model Strip decision.

20200821_075047.jpg.81702fec8131467a34d88adfad8301e1.jpg

Whilst using the Model Strip I applied some to some elderly, battered Choc & Custard(!) Hornby Mk.1 CK sides, which I want to respray, to see if it would remove the custard. As suspected, it didn't touch it. (Despite the fact the paint cracks and peels off fairly easily using a finger nail.)

20200823_114040.jpg.bab71a2dd586509ad7c19fe4acc74ac2.jpg

 

Anyone know of a more effective, readily available paint stripper which also removes factory paint, but is safe on plastics?

 

Elsewhere, the 25 has had a test run and trundled along the test track nicely using a Feedback controller. It then suffered electrical failure when a pickup wire detached during handling, so that needs soldering back now. It also highlighted that I need to add point motors to the test track, with frog feeds, before the layout will function correctly. 

 

Martyn.

Edited by Signaller69
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1 hour ago, Signaller69 said:

Whilst using the Model Strip I applied some to some elderly, battered Choc & Custard(!) Hornby Mk.1 CK sides, which I want to respray, to see if it would remove the custard. As suspected, it didn't touch it. (Despite the fact the paint cracks and peels off fairly easily using a finger nail.)

20200823_114040.jpg.bab71a2dd586509ad7c19fe4acc74ac2.jpg

 

Anyone know of a more effective, readily available paint stripper which also removes factory paint, but is safe on plastics?

 

Martyn.

 

Hi Martyn

 

Try soaking it in neat Dettol. I haven't used on a Triang coach (yet), but I have successfully used it to remove the factory finish paint from some Triang Hornby vans, and Lima train set coaches.

 

Once the paint softens, wipe most of it off with kitchen towel, then scrub the sides with an old toothbrush to get the paint out of the door frames.  Finally, rinse the sides under a tap and allow it to dry.

 

Paul

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Moxy said:

 

Hi Martyn

 

Try soaking it in neat Dettol. I haven't used on a Triang coach (yet), but I have successfully used it to remove the factory finish paint from some Triang Hornby vans, and Lima train set coaches.

 

Once the paint softens, wipe most of it off with kitchen towel, then scrub the sides with an old toothbrush to get the paint out of the door frames.  Finally, rinse the sides under a tap and allow it to dry.

 

Paul

Thanks Paul, will give it a try!:yes:

 

Edit, coach sides now soaking in Dettol overnight, will see what happens!

 

Martyn.

Edited by Signaller69
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Big thanks to Paul (Moxy) for the Dettol as paint stripper idea, following an overnight soak, all the 40-odd years old yellow paint dissolved away easily, in every nook and crannie, with an old toothbrush, leaving the plain mouldings ready for further sanding to remove remaining bits of moulded paint lines.

20200824_070208.jpg.f6c31e372d4dfa596f25877dd42def64.jpg

Winner of the "top modelling tip of the year" I reckon.... :good_mini:

 

Martyn.

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9 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Winner of the "top modelling tip of the year" I reckon.... :good_mini:

 

Martyn.

 

Thank you for the 'award,' Martyn, but I can't claim any credit for the idea, I learnt it from somebody else, either on here or at a show somewhere.

 

I think every modelling trick or technique in a modeller's arsenal is learnt from someone, then refined and passed on to others.  It's what I like about forums (fora in the plural?), and about the hobby generally, is that we all share tips & experiences with each other to help out.

 

I know I've asked loads of questions over the years, both at shows and online, somebody usually has the answer.  Happy to have been of assitance in this case!

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On 24/08/2020 at 07:26, Signaller69 said:

Big thanks to Paul (Moxy) for the Dettol as paint stripper idea, following an overnight soak, all the 40-odd years old yellow paint dissolved away easily, in every nook and crannie, with an old toothbrush, leaving the plain mouldings ready for further sanding to remove remaining bits of moulded paint lines.

20200824_070208.jpg.f6c31e372d4dfa596f25877dd42def64.jpg

Winner of the "top modelling tip of the year" I reckon.... :good_mini:

 

Martyn.

 

Thanks Martyn for the pictures. I had heard of the Dettol idea as well from somewhere, but it is good to see the evidence of how effective it is.

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Posted (edited)

The Class 46 body has also now had the Dettol treatment; the green plastic, once the factory paint had been removed, actually looked more like BR green than the paint finish but hey ho, both it and the coach sides have now had a coat of primer applied. The coach will be maroon (hence red primer), with post-64 first class stripe in the appropriate area as I have a stock of lining to suit it. A maroon car aerosol will supply the top coat (he says with baited breath...).

20200825_120750.jpg.dc113aa892220d29e4844ff8d71d2605.jpg

20200825_122118.jpg.8942e9cb2e6e1a45c20d84c7277019ca.jpg

The early Hornby coach chassis has had the usual bogie repositioning slightly inboard, so it sits lower on "scale" wheels, along with fitting Replica vac cylinders and dynamo, removing end steps and the addition of Comet gangway end plates. Footboards to be added yet. Feeling slightly lazy, I will probably leave the roof as is on this one as the vent pattern looks ok for an early CK.

 

20200825_120648.jpg.ed4bdaf4d74ba1676ea23a8da198fb38.jpg

The roof fans for the 25 and Peak were sprayed at the same time; 25 should have a red fan I believe, but not sure about the peak, the only photo I have seen shows a dirty grey, but could just be the dirt? Final colour of the Peak still being mulled over.

Edited by Signaller69
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I'd like to add my thanks for the mention of Dettol as a paint stripper, if I knew this before I'd forgotten.

 

I do share your pain Martyn on the 46 and the varnish. I've been very reluctant to use varnishes at all since an incident many years ago when I spoiled two models on which I'd spent ages, the varnish bloomed and, as they say, defeat snatched from the jaws of victory. There doesn't seem to be an surefire answer to this, spray when it's not damp, neither too hot or cold, use a fresh bottle etc. all seem to reduce, but not eliminate the risk of failure.

 

Good luck with the respray, whatever the colour,

 

John.

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4 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said:

GFYE - you know you want to :)

Which was my original thought, but for c.1970/71 the evidence suggests D166 was the only 46 to carry economy GFYE (ie no white stripe, 4th photo down the page here:

https://www.simsig.co.uk/Forum/ThreadView/34106?postId=49443 ), whilst a few more had the lining, and several ran economy green with small yellow panels. 

Blue gives several options, including D177 ex works post air-brake fitting, which would save me having to cut the tanks away on the model.....)

 

I guess the answer is to paint the FYE's and go from there!

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2 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

I'd like to add my thanks for the mention of Dettol as a paint stripper, if I knew this before I'd forgotten.

 

I do share your pain Martyn on the 46 and the varnish. I've been very reluctant to use varnishes at all since an incident many years ago when I spoiled two models on which I'd spent ages, the varnish bloomed and, as they say, defeat snatched from the jaws of victory. There doesn't seem to be an surefire answer to this, spray when it's not damp, neither too hot or cold, use a fresh bottle etc. all seem to reduce, but not eliminate the risk of failure.

 

Good luck with the respray, whatever the colour,

 

John.

Thanks John, I had such a disaster with one of my class 126 cars, it's not a nice experience is it! 

 

This time it was the white stripe and side grille surround which reacted causing them to lift and flake. It may have been a blessing as I wasn't convinced by the early shade of Bachmann green, and the parts I had repainted were not quite an exact match either, so hopefully the respray will look better, whichever colour it ends up!

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3 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

I'd like to add my thanks for the mention of Dettol as a paint stripper, if I knew this before I'd forgotten.

 

I do share your pain Martyn on the 46 and the varnish. I've been very reluctant to use varnishes at all since an incident many years ago when I spoiled two models on which I'd spent ages, the varnish bloomed and, as they say, defeat snatched from the jaws of victory. There doesn't seem to be an surefire answer to this, spray when it's not damp, neither too hot or cold, use a fresh bottle etc. all seem to reduce, but not eliminate the risk of failure.

 

Good luck with the respray, whatever the colour,

 

John.

Hi John,

 

Varnish trauma's !!!

 

GRRR!!!

 

I've had similar troubles myself despite brush painting most of my stuff. I had trouble getting a consistent finish painting my Blue Pullman some years back when rather than a consistent satin finish I ended up with one shiny and one matt out of the six vehicles. Fortunately I somehow managed to re varnish the two odd ones and get satin finish on them also.

 

I always find that Halfords Photograhic Grey (undercoat) goes on great and then the finish gets progressively worse to varying degrees sometimes to the point that the paint stripper comes out.

 

Gibbo.

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Another one of those vexed livery questions, the "right" shade of BR coach maroon....

20200825_154533.jpg.816a58a63f1cc9d08f2b2de730ff4074.jpg

20200825_154507.jpg.7a403cf23ccb2caaaad6b1d665d50128.jpg

This is Holts HDRE04, which looks ok to me, particularly "sunny day" photos of the prototype. It is slightly lighter than Railmatch Maroon and probably Bachmann's shade (the only vehicle I have to hand as reference is the Railmatch colour, but that is rather heavily weathered so perhaps an unfair comparison).

 

But then photos show variation in shades, and in any case it will mostly run with blue/grey stock.

 

Undecided whether to try a shade darker colour or leave as is?

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CK sides resprayed with Holts HDRE01 maroon, much happier with this colour, which matches the Bachmann shade very closely.

20200826_191534.jpg.252563feade5fc59b13b265c8ef756ab.jpg

20200826_191543.jpg.8a5b236ca21d88f4a45e5b69b9ab94ca.jpg

 

Lining next, along with finishing the chassis/ends. Istr the coach ends should be maroon too after c.1964, will have to check.

 

The 46 has had full yellow ends applied, I really need to decide on the body colour now!

20200826_192442.jpg.32fba3ae0f05d4357af204efb1c3982d.jpg

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12 minutes ago, Signaller69 said:

 

The 46 has had full yellow ends applied, I really need to decide on the body colour now!

20200826_192442.jpg.32fba3ae0f05d4357af204efb1c3982d.jpg

Hi Martyn,

 

Economy green and If you could find an example that had arrows rather than a crest even better.

 

Gibbo.

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