Gene Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Never heard anything good about Humbrol acrylics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Apols, I was referring to enamels for some reason. Although I was sent a load of Humbrol Acrylics to test, I found the colours no where near what I would imagine them to be. I've never tried brushing with them, only spraying. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 17, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 17, 2016 Apols, I was referring to enamels for some reason. Although I was sent a load of Humbrol Acrylics to test, I found the colours no where near what I would imagine them to be. I've never tried brushing with them, only spraying. "Cut the blue wire.... I mean the red wire, the red wire!" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sylvian Tennant Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Nice work - I've tended to repaint my models with Halfords especially priming but also using black frequently - but have found it will need several light coats to leave a good finish. Brush marks are always a bit of a nightmare but I can't see anything wrong with it. Have you varnished it? Pledge multi-surface wax might add a smooth consistent finish. The ghosting of the GWR isn't always a bad thing (as I've seen mentioned could be a quick repaint when BR took over) but as been mentioned preparing the surface by light sanding will help the paint stick and any transfers disappear under the new coat. Overall though - well done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TheSignalEngineer Posted July 18, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 18, 2016 Apols, I was referring to enamels for some reason. Although I was sent a load of Humbrol Acrylics to test, I found the colours no where near what I would imagine them to be. I've never tried brushing with them, only spraying. I gave up on Humbrol Acrylics after several poor experiences with China-made product. No matter how much it was stirred, Matt Black turned out between full gloss and milky dark grey, likewise with matt varnish. Nowadays I tend to use Gamed Workshop fo colours which are not 'Railway'. I also use Revell. Their Reddish Brown Matt (No. 37) is a fair base for weathered fitted wagons and I use Tar Black Matt (No.6) on dirty locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 I've never had any trouble with humbrol, but I do like my stock finished lightly weathered, I always spray a thin coat of gloss black after primer, then afterwards the finish colour what ever it should be, maroon, green, or black, all before the weathering. Spraying, particularly with an airbrush CAN make some manufacturers colours go lighter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 18, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 18, 2016 Everyone has to start somewhere and so far that looks quite good. Have to agree that removing the GW logos would have helped - something simple as oven cleaner would do it successfully. Think you're brave brush painting Tamiya, not noted for it's brushability. Is it gloss or matt ? If spraying is an issue then if you haven't got one a "flatty" brush is useful. Isn't there some saying about every long journey starting with a single step? Stu Yes, compared to a single step, the resulting fall to the floor is a long journey... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 21, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 21, 2016 Here is the finished result. I did not put as much paint on as I should have which resulted in the streaky lines on the one tank side. But I think the top and back of the loco look good enough. In lower levels of light, I don't think you can really tell. Overall, I think it was a good experience and I've learned: 1) Preparation is everything. Maybe next time I will try with a primer spray can. 2) Having the right paint is important (i.e. no more Tamiya). 3) Remove any lettering or decals before you start. 4) Take your time. 5) Do not worry about how bad it looks, there is always someone else whose done a worse job than you. Thank you again to everyone who commented. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevescan Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Tamiya paint is great for airbrushing but use Tamiya Acrylic thinners and retarder, Tamiya is not a true Acrylic and needs to be used with their own products, 95% of my painting is Tamiya, lets see the next project, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lapford34102 Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 there is always someone else whose done a worse job than you. Where do we line up :-) Good work,next job will be that bit easier and better. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 23, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 23, 2016 Tamiya paint is great for airbrushing but use Tamiya Acrylic thinners and retarder, Tamiya is not a true Acrylic and needs to be used with their own products, 95% of my painting is Tamiya, lets see the next project, See, no one told me that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 24, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 24, 2016 It's always worth preparing any surface that you are going to paint on, either by rubbing down, or priming with a can of spray primer. This will help smooth out any imperfections in the underlying finish and show up any blemishes. The more time you spend on preparation, the better the overall finish. Like the original GWR bleeding through... Why not try a can of Matt or semi Matt spray paint, you can get beautiful results quickly and easily Now, if I wanted to paint over what I've already painted, I just get a spray can of primer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westernviscount Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Now, if I wanted to paint over what I've already painted, I just get a spray can of primer? I strongly recommend completely stripping the entire body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevescan Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 I strongly recommend completely stripping the entire body. Agree strip right down to bare plastic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 Now, if I wanted to paint over what I've already painted, I just get a spray can of primer? Preparation is everything I'm afraid. Now you've started you'll soon pick up that you can spend more time prepping than actually painting. Try using a model paint stripper, then give it a scrub with a toothbrush and a mild cleaner ( I use bathroom cream cleanser) leave to dry or gently use a hairdryer and you're off......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 Now, if I wanted to paint over what I've already painted, I just get a spray can of primer? Teat a small area first, as the primer may lift the previous coat of paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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