Donnersbachkogel

[PaulRhB]

When it’s Swiss they ask if it’s German and when it’s German they ask if it’s a French! You can’t win  I’ve had flags, maps and text stuck to the layout and someone still ignores it all and asks  

Glad it went well you’ll have to have a photo session once you recover  

[Vecchio]

Well the text was stuck to the layout as well - about 5% of the visitors did read it - and therefore actually understand what I want to display... 

 

Anyway - children loved it, as there was constantly something happening, either the H0 passing through the station or the visitors train running through the mine or the narrow gauge going up and down the mountain. 

 

And this is what counts to me. Photos I am afraid we will not see many. Lots of people took photos, but they are not online. There is now also a video about the MK show on U-tube, showing even Thomas the tank engine, but guess, they didn't bother putting something continental on it.... 

 

It is what it is, I am still happy it worked, and I could run my H0e loco around the train in both stations without the hand of god. But this is something most of the people don't see. One was even asking me how quick I did the uncoupling as he didn't notice me doing it...

 

Next time I put the layout together I will do a proper photo session (have to find my Nikon charger first....).

[Bergmann]

I have a 1 x 2 m rollup on my model in addition two video presentations but see for yourself.

But I am still being asked about things that are already being explained there.

My summary people are simply looking for an introduction to get into a conversation with one.

At the bottom right is also my Cakebox model presented here in the forum.

 

[Vecchio]

Well Covid 19 killed Railex NE - so the layout will have it's peace for a while. 

So what to do? I am working on another layout (Frimingham) and when I have enough of that I do some upgrading of my rolling stock. 

Currently I attack a Siemens dispolok, ES 64-4, a multisystem type I used already at my old Italian layout. It had an MX 64 built in, Pantographs with memory wire, cab light, red marker lights added (the Piko model doesn't have them) and Krois couplings. The pantographs didn't work any more an have blown function outputs, also I wanted to add a stay alive. So I use an MX645, there I have 10 functions and 2 servo outputs. I stripped the loco except the light wiring to get an idea where to go. 

20200516_211647 

 

For the speaker some milling is necessary. On the real loco this is where the transformer sits. 

20200516_211744

 

Here you see the trial run with the speaker cable

20200516_213157

 

The speaker will be from Youchoose and is in the post. So a little bit of waiting before I can proceed. 

Edited May 16, 2020 by Vecchio
spelling

[Neils WRX]

Daft question how do you get working pantographs? Like to add this feature to one of my SNCB 20’ s so I could raise and lower with a press of a button.

 

Thanks 

 

Neil

[Vecchio]

@Neils WRX There are 2 possibilities. One - the older one - is a so called memory wire or Nitinol wire. This is an alloy of Nickel and Titanium which changes it crystalline structure at a very low temperature, depending on the alloy between -20 and +110 degrees. What I use changes at 60 degrees. when the wire is heated above this temperature it "remembers" its shape it had when it was produced and goes back to it with a very high force. If you need more explanation see Wikipedia . The wire is very thin, about 0.02 mm, and is elongated with a spring. Once you heat it - it will contract to its original shape. Ok. how to do it in a loco? The wire, which is not a very good electrical conductor, is heated by running a current through it. I had a resistor in series to reduce the maximum current to something the decoder function output can handle (normally 100 mA for the Zimo's). Then of course you have to play with the dimm function to get the right current through the wire, it should work but shouldn't get too hot as there is a lot of valuable plastic around it...

The wire is a nasty beast as you cannot solder or weld it (well laser welding is possible, but it is outside of the hobbyist's possibilities). So what is necessary is to clamp it. On one side I clamp it by a screw, this gives me also the possibility of electrical contact, on the other side I form a tiny loop which I clamp with a crimp tube. (Crimp tube: a tiny piece of brass with a hole in it, squashed by plyers).

In the loop the return spring is hooked in.  Well - a lot of words - lets have a look: The engine is a Siemens ES 64-2 also known as Taurus

 

IMGP3804 

 

See here the crimping tube and the actuator thread (a red polyester thread from the sewing machine cupboard...) 

The screw is the original screw which also holds the pantograph. The springs hold the wire back when it is cold and lower the pantograph. 

You see also the squashed tube with the electric contact as written above. 

IMGP3808 

 

And here the other side, the screw on the right is the screw holding the other pantograph (this one is not controlled) the screw on the left clamps the wire and allows setting the length. 

IMGP3811 

 

As the whole thing works on a thermal trigger the movement is very smooth (the speed depends on the current) and realistic. 

Who doesn't belief it works is happily invited to come to a show where I show Donnersbachkogel, I have 5 locomotives with memory wire pantographs, one of the can move 2 pantographs (a multisystem loco, this was necessary as I had a border station between Italy and Austria, so you need to change the pantographs and switch to the other power supply). 

See here a little video of the multisystem loco. You need to click on the picture to activate the video. 

2 0151009185750 

 

OK, this was pretty difficult. You can do the whole thing also with a servo. Why did I do it with memory wire? Well this was 2006 - there was no servo possibility on the decoder chips.... 

 

Servo: First you need a decoder which allows to use a servo. Several Zimo's and ESU's can handle servos. May be others, you have to find out. I am a Zimo user, once you know how to program them you do noch change to another brand. 

Second you need a very small servo and a locomotive having enough space... 

The first loco I ever did with a servo was a OBB 1163, this is a modern shunting engine with central cab. Means there is no space for a memory wire, as those need minimum 10 cm to work properly. Here I use a Toki smart servo, very small and flat. It is direct under the cab roof. Works well but when it is powered on it moves first to both end positions. This servo is expensive and today there are smaller and cheaper ones on the market. 

Again a small video, showing also the Krois electromagnetic couplings. I did this video to show what DCC means for me. Not only driving more realistic but also to allow many functions you never get without DCC. 

2 0151009192813 

 

Another application of a servo for the pantograph is this one: ES 64-2 with MX645 sound decoder, moving pantograph, stay alive, Krois couplings. 

20190907_072222

 

If you look at the roof you cannot see the actuator thread. 

20190907_072353 

 

See here the startup sequence and uncoupling. Sound is downloaded from the Zimo website.

DSC_0846 

 

And the shutdown of the loco. 

DSC_0847 

 

So as a conclusion: Servo is much easier then memory wire, important thing is to find a space for it. 

My experience with Zimo: Servo programming done with CV's, some experience is of advantage. 

Servo power supply: Some decoders have on board power supply for servos (for instance MX645 or MX634). If not present an additional voltage regulator circuit needs to be added. Servos need 5 Volt supply. 

 

As you can see by the length of my reply I love playing with DCC and some special functions...

 

Edited May 17, 2020 by Vecchio
video was missing

[Salmotrutta]

8 hours ago, Vecchio said:

@Neils WRX There are 2 possibilities. One - the older one - is a so called memory wire or Nitinol wire. This is an alloy of Nickel and Titanium which changes it crystalline structure at a very low temperature, depending on the alloy between -20 and +110 degrees. What I use changes at 60 degrees. when the wire is heated above this temperature it "remembers" its shape it had when it was produced and goes back to it with a very high force. If you need more explanation see Wikipedia . The wire is very thin, about 0.02 mm, and is elongated with a spring. Once you heat it - it will contract to its original shape. Ok. how to do it in a loco? The wire, which is not a very good electrical conductor, is heated by running a current through it. I had a resistor in series to reduce the maximum current to something the decoder function output can handle (normally 100 mA for the Zimo's). Then of course you have to play with the dimm function to get the right current through the wire, it should work but shouldn't get too hot as there is a lot of valuable plastic around it...

The wire is a nasty beast as you cannot solder or weld it (well laser welding is possible, but it is outside of the hobbyist's possibilities). So what is necessary is to clamp it. On one side I clamp it by a screw, this gives me also the possibility of electrical contact, on the other side I form a tiny loop which I clamp with a crimp tube. (Crimp tube: a tiny piece of brass with a hole in it, squashed by plyers).

In the loop the return spring is hooked in.  Well - a lot of words - lets have a look: The engine is a Siemens ES 64-2 also known as Taurus

 

IMGP3804 

 

See here the crimping tube and the actuator thread (a red polyester thread from the sewing machine cupboard...) 

The screw is the original screw which also holds the pantograph. The springs hold the wire back when it is cold and lower the pantograph. 

You see also the squashed tube with the electric contact as written above. 

IMGP3808 

 

And here the other side, the screw on the right is the screw holding the other pantograph (this one is not controlled) the screw on the left clamps the wire and allows setting the length. 

IMGP3811 

 

As the whole thing works on a thermal trigger the movement is very smooth (the speed depends on the current) and realistic. 

Who doesn't belief it works is happily invited to come to a show where I show Donnersbachkogel, I have 5 locomotives with memory wire pantographs, one of the can move 2 pantographs (a multisystem loco, this was necessary as I had a border station between Italy and Austria, so you need to change the pantographs and switch to the other power supply). 

See here a little video of the multisystem loco. You need to click on the picture to activate the video. 

2 0151009185750 

 

OK, this was pretty difficult. You can do the whole thing also with a servo. Why did I do it with memory wire? Well this was 2006 - there was no servo possibility on the decoder chips.... 

 

Servo: First you need a decoder which allows to use a servo. Several Zimo's and ESU's can handle servos. May be others, you have to find out. I am a Zimo user, once you know how to program them you do noch change to another brand. 

Second you need a very small servo and a locomotive having enough space... 

The first loco I ever did with a servo was a OBB 1163, this is a modern shunting engine with central cab. Means there is no space for a memory wire, as those need minimum 10 cm to work properly. Here I use a Toki smart servo, very small and flat. It is direct under the cab roof. Works well but when it is powered on it moves first to both end positions. This servo is expensive and today there are smaller and cheaper ones on the market. 

Again a small video, showing also the Krois electromagnetic couplings. I did this video to show what DCC means for me. Not only driving more realistic but also to allow many functions you never get without DCC. 

2 0151009192813 

 

Another application of a servo for the pantograph is this one: ES 64-2 with MX645 sound decoder, moving pantograph, stay alive, Krois couplings. 

20190907_072222

 

If you look at the roof you cannot see the actuator thread. 

20190907_072353 

 

See here the startup sequence and uncoupling. Sound is downloaded from the Zimo website.

DSC_0846 

 

And the shutdown of the loco. 

DSC_0847 

 

So as a conclusion: Servo is much easier then memory wire, important thing is to find a space for it. 

My experience with Zimo: Servo programming done with CV's, some experience is of advantage. 

Servo power supply: Some decoders have on board power supply for servos (for instance MX645 or MX634). If not present an additional voltage regulator circuit needs to be added. Servos need 5 Volt supply. 

 

As you can see by the length of my reply I love playing with DCC and some special functions...

 

Thanks for showing "how it's done". Very impressed!

[Neils WRX]

13 hours ago, Vecchio said:

@Neils WRX There are 2 possibilities. One - the older one - is a so called memory wire or Nitinol wire. This is an alloy of Nickel and Titanium which changes it crystalline structure at a very low temperature, depending on the alloy between -20 and +110 degrees. What I use changes at 60 degrees. when the wire is heated above this temperature it "remembers" its shape it had when it was produced and goes back to it with a very high force. If you need more explanation see Wikipedia . The wire is very thin, about 0.02 mm, and is elongated with a spring. Once you heat it - it will contract to its original shape. Ok. how to do it in a loco? The wire, which is not a very good electrical conductor, is heated by running a current through it. I had a resistor in series to reduce the maximum current to something the decoder function output can handle (normally 100 mA for the Zimo's). Then of course you have to play with the dimm function to get the right current through the wire, it should work but shouldn't get too hot as there is a lot of valuable plastic around it...

The wire is a nasty beast as you cannot solder or weld it (well laser welding is possible, but it is outside of the hobbyist's possibilities). So what is necessary is to clamp it. On one side I clamp it by a screw, this gives me also the possibility of electrical contact, on the other side I form a tiny loop which I clamp with a crimp tube. (Crimp tube: a tiny piece of brass with a hole in it, squashed by plyers).

In the loop the return spring is hooked in.  Well - a lot of words - lets have a look: The engine is a Siemens ES 64-2 also known as Taurus

 

IMGP3804 

 

See here the crimping tube and the actuator thread (a red polyester thread from the sewing machine cupboard...) 

The screw is the original screw which also holds the pantograph. The springs hold the wire back when it is cold and lower the pantograph. 

You see also the squashed tube with the electric contact as written above. 

IMGP3808 

 

And here the other side, the screw on the right is the screw holding the other pantograph (this one is not controlled) the screw on the left clamps the wire and allows setting the length. 

IMGP3811 

 

As the whole thing works on a thermal trigger the movement is very smooth (the speed depends on the current) and realistic. 

Who doesn't belief it works is happily invited to come to a show where I show Donnersbachkogel, I have 5 locomotives with memory wire pantographs, one of the can move 2 pantographs (a multisystem loco, this was necessary as I had a border station between Italy and Austria, so you need to change the pantographs and switch to the other power supply). 

See here a little video of the multisystem loco. You need to click on the picture to activate the video. 

2 0151009185750 

 

OK, this was pretty difficult. You can do the whole thing also with a servo. Why did I do it with memory wire? Well this was 2006 - there was no servo possibility on the decoder chips.... 

 

Servo: First you need a decoder which allows to use a servo. Several Zimo's and ESU's can handle servos. May be others, you have to find out. I am a Zimo user, once you know how to program them you do noch change to another brand. 

Second you need a very small servo and a locomotive having enough space... 

The first loco I ever did with a servo was a OBB 1163, this is a modern shunting engine with central cab. Means there is no space for a memory wire, as those need minimum 10 cm to work properly. Here I use a Toki smart servo, very small and flat. It is direct under the cab roof. Works well but when it is powered on it moves first to both end positions. This servo is expensive and today there are smaller and cheaper ones on the market. 

Again a small video, showing also the Krois electromagnetic couplings. I did this video to show what DCC means for me. Not only driving more realistic but also to allow many functions you never get without DCC. 

2 0151009192813 

 

Another application of a servo for the pantograph is this one: ES 64-2 with MX645 sound decoder, moving pantograph, stay alive, Krois couplings. 

20190907_072222

 

If you look at the roof you cannot see the actuator thread. 

20190907_072353 

 

See here the startup sequence and uncoupling. Sound is downloaded from the Zimo website.

DSC_0846 

 

And the shutdown of the loco. 

DSC_0847 

 

So as a conclusion: Servo is much easier then memory wire, important thing is to find a space for it. 

My experience with Zimo: Servo programming done with CV's, some experience is of advantage. 

Servo power supply: Some decoders have on board power supply for servos (for instance MX645 or MX634). If not present an additional voltage regulator circuit needs to be added. Servos need 5 Volt supply. 

 

As you can see by the length of my reply I love playing with DCC and some special functions...

 

 

Thanks very much for sharing, that’s really interesting. I’m really impressed.

 

I think I might investigate the servo route as the very clever wire option looks a bit beyond my skills!!!

 

Thanks again.

 

Neil

[Vecchio]

Progress is limited as I had a very busy week. I prepared the MX645 for the servos - the 5V supply is on board but needs to be soldered on. Photo shows where to go.

20200518_165508 

 

To secure it mechanically I cover it with a small blob of hotmelt.

20200518_165935

 

For the servos I introduce two miniature sockets

20200520_125304 

 

I made a "pcb" for the servo to mount it into position. I etched the copper away where the servo goes but I left it where I need it to solder on the thread guide. The servo is next to it. 

20200520_123455 

 

Now in position. 

20200520_124257 

 

Unfortunately I learned that the servo is not strong enough to pull the panto down against the force of the spring.... 

Headscratching starts...

 

Something positive: The Youchoose speaker arrived and is connected and in position. 

20200520_121242

 

Some ideas came up, I will make a wire lever but as I killed the insulators of one pantographs (melted during a cutting disc operation )I need to make new ones on the lathe first... this time in brass, so no melting.... 

 

Edited May 21, 2020 by Vecchio
Spelling.... grrrr

[Vecchio]

So. first the new insulators to hold the panto. The engineer needs a drawing and off he goes. Was even to lazy to do it in CAD. So pencil it is. 

20200522_103901

 

And here the result. Made 6 just in case I need more. 

20200523_113624 

 

I used a brass blackening liquid to get them dark brown. They are rather black but who cares. You see now also the lever on the picture. This should give the servo more way and a lower force. 

20200523_162343 

 

Quick trial with my expensive servo tester (11 channel RC system) Click on the picture to go to the video.

20200523_161919

 

There are still some space issues, so it may take a few days more to make it work.... 

Edited May 23, 2020 by Vecchio

[Vecchio]

Finally all is in place. Now I need the soundfile

20200605_190425

 

And after that I need to change a few CVs to make the couplings work and also the servos. I counted them - 26 I have changed.... needed also to change some sounds around as I want the coupling sound on F1 and F2 which are the function keys for the electromagnetic couplings. 

The servo ones are a pain, I used my old Lenz LZV100, which is fine, but if you have a servo connected you cannot program... So I am happy I made the connectors. Took me a day to play around with all parameters and some trial and error until all was working. 

 

The final result: (click into the photo to go to the video)

20200607_134903 

 

Now this loco goes into its box for a while...

Edited June 7, 2020 by Vecchio

[spenc]

Hi

Just read all 9 pages great layout I have just been building my overhead wires which I think I done a good job can ask what colour paint or stain did you use and manufacture.

Thanks

Steve

[Vecchio]

Hi, thanks for your comment. Always good if I can entertain somebody. 

Painting the overhead line is not really a satisfying job - I have used Humbrol 91 - black-green matt. Even all overhead wires are washed (as I want to get flux off) the paint doesn't grip, in some places it pulls back and forms little drops (too much surface tension or not enough adhesion on the metal). So I suppose an etch primer (rattle can, for instance from Halfords) would be better. Have not tried it, but I probably will. Something like dark grey or black will do. Problem with the etch primer is you have to spray the OHL before you install it, soldering may be a problem. Just one hint: should you apply paint to the ready installed overhead line you need to cover the area below as there will always be some spray from your brush. How do I know? 

 

Best looking is a brass blackening liquid (it doesn't add to the diameter as it is just an oxide layer), I use Birchwood Casey Brass Black. But the application is a pain. Manufacturers recommendation is to use cotton swabs. You need several coats until it goes as dark as you like it. Also: the soldered areas will not be black. I use the blackening liquid with very good results for etched signal kits (see Frimingham) or also for small parts like the insulators of the pantograph further up this thread.

[PaulRhB]

Enamel works ok on the wires I found but the acrylic needs a primer or it can pool / drag off much as you describe. I mixed up a grey / green for Rhätia. 
I also got the splatter from the brush hitting the droppers and had a piece of paper folded into a V I held in my other hand as I went along. Allowed me to use a well loaded big brush that speeds up the painting a lot  

[spenc]

Mines made up but not fixed in place yet so I could paint upto where I have to solder then touch up when they are on,thanks for help.

Steve

[Vecchio]

Paul said: Enamel works ok on the wires -

By the way - Humbrol 91 is an enamel paint, still made problems... I even bought a new tin, result unchanged....

Edited June 12, 2020 by Vecchio

[PaulRhB]

1 hour ago, Vecchio said:

Paul said: Enamel works ok on the wires -

By the way - Humbrol 91 is an enamel paint, still made problems... I even bought a new tin, result unchanged....

Odd! The actually do it in AB91 acrylic and enamel AA91. Just wondered if you’d got the wrong tin sent as it sounded just like the acrylic. Tamiya acrylics go ok on metal but you can’t go back and touch up easily until dry or it picks up on the brush again. 

[Vecchio]

So what happens to Donnersbachkogel?

Well not much, of course no other show, meanwhile the shows I wanted to display the layout have also canceled their 2021 events. Well, we can't blame them, even if everything should turn to the bright side I am not shure how many people would come, as in some families the priorities have been shifted...

 

OK, lets be less gloomy. Last February, during the show I thought my H0e steam loco needs a shed. Also, I saw that sometimes it makes sense to see also the other side of the layout, without standing up and leaning forward. (A tall background is nice but has it's disadvantages....). So I spent some money and invested in a reversing camera. This came as a set, supply voltage 12 to 24 volts, you can connect direct with coax cables or wireless via a small transmitter and receiver. All this together with a 7 inch colour monitor for less than 30£.

Of course, a bit of patience is needed as it comes from China.

 

This camera/monitor set also allows myself enjoing the layout on my own, as I can see where the trains are in the fiddle yard. Well, 2 cameras would have been better, but it is a massive improvement already. Connection was easy, as I have a 12 volt DC bus running under all boards. I used RC battery connectors (XT60), they are built for 60A, so a bit over the target, but they are robust and I had them in my RC box.  Below a picture of the monitor, showing the entrance to the fiddle yard.

 

20210109_143036

 

Now to the shed. A long time ago I started collecting useable parts and found a pair of shed doors, which were spare from an old shed kit which I built for one of my previous layouts. Also the ice-house kit from Walthers which I purchased in 2006 came in handy, I used the loading platform on my last layout, and this time I could use the walls, the ventilation domes and some of its doors. Windows are from several kits. Roof and floor are plastruct.

The parts are going together

20210107_143742

 

Once the structure was done I gave it a coat of grey primer.

20210107_204414

20210107_204403

 

Now a chimney is needed. Normally under the roof of a loco shed is some sheet metal structure guiding the smoke to a chimeny. I use a 6mm brass tube for the chimney, which is 520mm in real scale. Should be fine. To avoid rain falling into the shed the chimney needs a cap. 3 pieces of brass wire hold the cap in position. All connections are soldered, so it doesn't disintegrate if touched by my heavy hands... 

 

Work on the chimney in progress

20210111_162959

 

And now a trial fit.

20210111_170842

 

This covers more than 2 weeks of work ( I have other work to do as well and I am happy I am still working these days, so it is clear where the priority is...).

Will show you a bit more later.

 

Edited January 14, 2021 by Vecchio

[PaulCheffus]

On 23/05/2020 at 19:06, Vecchio said:

So. first the new insulators to hold the panto. The engineer needs a drawing and off he goes. Was even to lazy to do it in CAD. So pencil it is. 

20200522_103901

 

Hi

 

Where did you get the lathe tool from for cutting the grooves? Did you grind it yourself?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Vecchio]

16 hours ago, PaulCheffus said:

Where did you get the lathe tool from for cutting the grooves? Did you grind it yourself?

 

The tool I used was a tungsten carbide thread cutting tool which has a 60 degree angle. So it is a common, commercial available tool.

But I do grind my own tools. Exception: Tungsten carbide inserts.

If you own (and use) a lathe you will always have the problem to keep your tools sharp. So I have this machine since 43 years... When I tried to remember when I got this machine it gives me an idea about my age. This machine has moved house 10 times and worked in 3 different countries.

20210115_084816

 

Its an Einhell double wheel grinder, 350W. It works like on its fist day, I had to replace grinding wheels once. I use one silicium carbide wheel (for TCT) and one aluminium oxide wheel (for steel).

What you need is patience and some water to cool the tool frequently. If it gets too hot you burn your fingers and it loses its hardness...

 

And: Take care working with a grinder, there is a lot of kinetic energy stored in the wheels running at 3000 rpm. Loose cloth and long hair are an absolute no-no while safety goggles are a must. Late hippies or ladies with long hair must wear a hair net! The gap between the rotating disc and your tool support needs to be as small as possibe to avoid that a tool gets caught in the gap.

 

Edited January 15, 2021 by Vecchio

[Allegheny1600]

11 minutes ago, Vecchio said:

 

And: Take care working with a grinder, there is a lot of kinetic energy stored in the wheels running at 3000 rpm. Loose cloth and long hair are an absolute no-no while safety goggles are a must. Late hippies or ladies with long hair must wear a hair net! The gap between the rotating disc and your tool support needs to be as small as possibe to avoid that a tool gets caught in the gap.

 

Absolutely agree with this!

A few years ago, I was grinding some material away from some steel mounting brackets, only a tiny bit so I thought I’d be fine with my spectacles for protection.

WRONG!
A tiny piece of hot steel got behind the spectacles and into my left eye, I didn’t really feel it at the time, just thought it was a fleck of dust. Long story short, it ended up very painful indeed and a trip to an eye specialist who sorted it very capably, thankfully.

 I was never particularly cavalier about safety before (despite the above) but as we age, we should take every precaution because when things go wrong, it is most unpleasant.

A painful lesson.

John.

[PaulCheffus]

31 minutes ago, Vecchio said:

 

The tool I used was a tungsten carbide tread cutting tool which has a 60 degree angle. So it is a common, commercial available tool.

But I do grind my own tools. Exception: Tungsten carbide inserts.

If you own (and use) a lathe you will always have the problem to keep your tools sharp. So I have this machine since 43 years... When I tried to remember when I got this machine it gives me an idea about my age. This machine has moved house 10 times and worked in 3 different countries.

20210115_084816

 

Its an Einhell double wheel grinder, 350W. It works like on its fist day, I had to replace grinding wheels once. I use one silicium carbide wheel (for TCT) and one aluminium oxide wheel (for steel).

What you need is patience and some water to cool the tool frequently. If it gets too hot you burn your fingers and it loses its hardness...

 

And: Take care working with a grinder, there is a lot of kinetic energy stored in the wheels running at 3000 rpm. Loose cloth and long hair are an absolute no-no while safety goggles are a must. Late hippies or ladies with long hair must wear a hair net! The gap between the rotating disc and your tool support needs to be as small as possibe to avoid that a tool gets caught in the gap.

 

HI

 

Thanks and yes I do have a lathe. I have a different Einhell grinder and take all safety precautions when sharpening the tools including eye protection.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Vecchio]

After this little side step into old machinery and safety back to the shed.

I tried to give the shed some kind of treated wood look, looks better with the naked eye and worse on a photo.

20210113_162150

20210113_162209

Now you can see the shed doors which were a convinient find in my bits box.

20210113_162325

 

The floor got some boards in it, probably not dirty/oily enough where the track is.

20210114_133727

 

Addition of some lights, I use these strips for my coaches, here I removed every second LED. Doesn't need to be too bright. And of course I also used a higher resistance value. 2.7kOhm.

20210114_114116

 

Currently I am working on some workshop equipment, only after that I will be able to close the whole thing.

[Vecchio]

A workshop needs a proper drill, and of course a workbench.

First a drill. Brass it is and on we go.

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And now the table. Was a bit of headscratching for the vice, but in the end I am happy.

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Now in colour.

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And in the shed we go. Added also some firewood, some of my oildrums, and of course a couple of fire extinguishers

One time without flash

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And one time with.

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And now with the doors on. Austrian sheds all carry a railway sign - prohibited to proceed. Even it is obvious... homemade water slide by the way.

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Next step is to go on the layout.

Edited January 30, 2021 by Vecchio

[Vecchio]

After some break serious work has started in Donnersbachkogel. One of the buffer stops of the narrow gauge line has been removed.

 

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This will be the little extension for the new loco shed.

 

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