Donnersbachkogel

[Vecchio]

After some disturbance by the 0-gauge loco upgrade I am back to Donnersbachkogel. As I need access to the shed I made magnets on the lightbar and put 2 6mm round iron bar pieces on the roof. The have a slit cut in and they are glued to the spars. The magnets are pretty strong, I have to be careful when removing the roof not to ripp the complete shed off the ground...

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The whole shed is screwed to the baseboard to allow mainenance shoud this be necessary. I tried to hide the screws so the visitor doesn't spot them.

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The balast is still wet, and only when it is completely dry I will cut the rail at the baseboard connection. So far I am quite happy with my progress.

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Next I will look at the doors and at the light connection. I also noticed that there are 2 problems on the layout - the station lights do not work and there is a dead zone on one of the points. So you get never bored....

 

 

[Vecchio]

Well as it looks it took me a year to get on with this loco shed... Well, after some headscratching I made a mechanism for the doors, they are servo driven, using an old barrier crossing mechanism from Conrad. 

 

See here the mechanism

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and the control board which is at the fiddle yard side. 

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And a short video how the thing works. Sorry for the background noises... 

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And why I am busy now? Well - Milton Keynes Model railway club will have a show on the 16th of July, and I will have my layout on display there. 

Hope to see some of you there!

 

 

[DGO]

Fascinating reading about the memory wire, if I read it right you get about 3mm of contraction for a 100mm wire ?

[Vecchio]

11 hours ago, DGO said:

Fascinating reading about the memory wire, if I read it right you get about 3mm of contraction for a 100mm wire ?

That is correct. And I am well happy that it works - also after more than 15 years. Had a Piko loco in the club yesterday, works like on the first day. Even it is more fiddly than putting in a small servo, I prefer the smooth movement. The locos I did with servo all show some vibrations during the movement. The memory wire doesn't. A very smooth movement, the speed is determined by the current and how quick it cools down.   

And please don't forget: If you want to see it with your own eyes (and you are not too far away) - Milton Keynes Model Railway Society Exhibition 16th July 2022

 

 

[DGO]

5 hours ago, Vecchio said:

That is correct. And I am well happy that it works - also after more than 15 years. Had a Piko loco in the club yesterday, works like on the first day. Even it is more fiddly than putting in a small servo, I prefer the smooth movement. The locos I did with servo all show some vibrations during the movement. The memory wire doesn't. A very smooth movement, the speed is determined by the current and how quick it cools down.   

And please don't forget: If you want to see it with your own eyes (and you are not too far away) - Milton Keynes Model Railway Society Exhibition 16th July 2022

 

 

If I were closer ... sadly it's almost a 4 hour train journey each way with a minimum £77 return fare ... Ouch Do you just use one of the accessory lines on a DCC decoder to power it ? And I assume that you can leave the power on to keep the pantograph in the down position ? Annoyingly because I plan to use this on a rack rail system with gradients going between 0 up to 20% and back I think I need to include a sprung follower as well, should be ... interesting 

 

[PaulRhB]

Have a good show, unfortunately I have a prior appointment in the opposite direction that day. (Fortunately also playing trains)

[Vecchio]

3 hours ago, DGO said:

Do you just use one of the accessory lines on a DCC decoder to power it ?

Yes, decoders were Zimo MX63 or MX64 (now you see that stuff was a few years ago as those are types from the early 2000s and no longer available...). Total current for all 4 functions was 500mA max, I used rather large (5W) resistors in series to the memory wire, to keep the current at or below 100mA. Didn't kill a single decoder.... The total resistance of the memory wire plus the resistor should be not lower than 180Ohm if you use an 18V system. The fine regulation, which determines how fast the panto moves up, can be done by dimming the function output (dimming with CV60, determination which function output(s) with CV114).

 

The Zimo instructions for small decoders are a real bible for the enthusiast, even I use quite a few things in my models, there are still many things I didn't try. 84 pages worth a read.

 

4 hours ago, DGO said:

I assume that you can leave the power on to keep the pantograph in the down position ?

Other way round. The pantos are up with power on. Yes I left the power on as I normally try to drive with panto up. (until something gets broken.... ). The change in the crystalline system where the effect starts and the wire contracts was for the wire I used approximately at 50 degrees C. Means the wire gets warm or even hot, best to have it in an area where nothing delicate can be touched. Some people used a Teflon tube to keep the wire separate. This has also the advantage that it reacts slower if you switch the power off (Thermal insulation). The question is if there is enough space to do so. Probably in 0 scale rather than in H0.

[Vecchio]

4 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

Have a good show, unfortunately I have a prior appointment in the opposite direction that day. (Fortunately also playing trains)

Thanks Paul, 

sure we meet again at one or the other show. 

[Vecchio]

The show is only one week away, The layout has been cleaned, a few overhead line wires have been re-soldered, locomotives are tested, and some bare patches have been re-grassed. 

One last minute work were the H0e coaches (which are actually German, but on a preserved railway everything is allowed..), they needed interior lights, as the train goes through a rather long tunnel. Also - the coaches were empty. Quickly solved the problem. Their Austrian sisters were slightly bigger, so I could hide a battery case under the car. In case of the German ones this is not possible. 

 

First to the interior: 

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Wires are enamelled wires, easy to hide. A few passengers are now present on the narrow benches. 

 

Looking from the outside the wires are perfectly hidden. The battery is in the floor, between the mold for the seats and the chassis part

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On we go, now with light and passengers into the tunnel. 

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Over the weekend I will take the layout apart and pack up the rolling stock. 

Whoever has time - come and have a look! 

 

Exhibiton poster 

[Vecchio]

Last preparations for the show....

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[Ian Morgan]

Extreme Ironing  🙂

 

 

 

[Vecchio]

The show went well, the cost was easily covered. As usual I had some overhead line trouble at the end of the show and I had to change one locomotive (as the panto was ripped off...) 

 

This is the risk when driving with panto up, but I think its worth taking that risk as it looks more realistic. 

 

What I also noticed (and I did know that before) is that the number of trains is limited by the size of my fiddle yard. Also the curve on module 1 (behind the scenery) is to sharp and doesn't allow certain locomotives to go on the layout. 

 

As there will be a little break in going on shows (there should be two in 2023, we will see if it works) I decided to upgrade my fiddle yard. I will remove the board extension I made in 2016 and make  full size fiddle yard boards (120 x 60 cm) this should allow 6 or 7 tracks instead of 3 and also the problem of the radius in the curve will be solved. 

So: out with the old router jig, and some finger joints produced...

 

Simple finger joint jig. I take no responsibility for people copying this and cutting into their own finger... 

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Some material has been prepared. 

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I will use the same technique as described in the first pages of this thread, so I will not go into to much detail here.

Track is ordered, but first the woodwork has to be done.  

[PaulRhB]

6 hours ago, Vecchio said:

and I had to change one locomotive (as the panto was ripped off...) 

Ouch! I once bent a LGB one when it sprung up just before a bridge but apart from re bending the wire it wasn’t actually damaged. Do you know what caused it to catch or was it a failure of the pantograph?

[Re6/6]

15 hours ago, Vecchio said:

.........but I think its worth taking that risk as it looks more realistic. 

I do so agree. A pet hate of mine is running with pans down!

[Vecchio]

14 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

Do you know what caused it to catch or was it a failure of the pantograph?

Yes, I do know. there is a particular section on the right hand of the station where I already had to put in a bracket in as the wires didn't follow the track. I did know that and avoided the middle track for that reason - but I didn't instruct my operators properly. My Rivarossi 1040 (which was busy doing a double header with a Roco 1042) has a rather small pan head, which is probably prototypical, but not very practical with the radii used on a model railway layout. So the pantograph slipped off and caught itself between the contact wire and the suspension wire. I didn't look at it in detail, probably a repair is possible, but I also have 2 spare pantographs of similar design from an old Klein-Modellbahn loco (which died like most of them from Mazak rot). They were good quality, probably coming from Sommerfeldt.

[Vecchio]

On 05/08/2022 at 07:37, Re6/6 said:

I do so agree. A pet hate of mine is running with pans down!

And the next one on my list is the hand of god.... even people say magnetic uncouplers are not realistic they are much more realistic than an oversized shovel shaped stick coming down from the sky... 

[Vecchio]

Quick report from the fiddle yard project. Woodwork done, I am now glueing underlay and track to the boards.

 

Legs and board, sorry for the camera position, I can asure the legs are straight...

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Track laying started...

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...and a bit further. I cannot work on more than 3 boards at a time as otherwise I have no room to move in the workshop.

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Electrics: I will not use the Megapoints controller for the fiddle yard but try my luck with DCC. Plan is to use cheap surface mounted point motors (I got a few used ones for almost no money) and Digikeijs switch decoders. This should bring me down to 2 wires 🙂.... (not really as everybody will know)

Edited November 7, 2022 by Vecchio
Some photo problems...

[Vecchio]

A few days later, all track is laid. Now I am playing with the Z21 control station and Digikeijs DR4018. Unfortunately, one of my cheap surface control motors had a short and killed one of the DR4018 channels. I can control 7 points now instead of 8. Also I got crazy with the 3-way points on the Z21. From time to time it is impossible to switch to a certain direction. The setting was correct, as long as in editing mode all works, in drive mode it switches always back into the middle track. Also, the symbol on the touch screen is quite small, you need lady's fingertips to reach the right position. So as a quick improvement I changed from 3-way symbol to 2 normal points. The schematic view in the control station looks a bit different, but it works. 

 

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And there are a few more wires than 2 on this board...

 

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[PaulRhB]

18 hours ago, Vecchio said:

Also, the symbol on the touch screen is quite small, you need lady's fingertips to reach the right position. So as a quick improvement I changed from 3-way symbol to 2 normal points.

Good solution 👍 I still use the old app as I prefer to make the point symbol small and use the route buttons which you can resize and place to make it easy. I found the same with points bunched together as it was too easy to swipe a second one and get the wrong route!

 

Hopefully bump into you at the weekend again, I’m there both days and  helping on Neuberg on Sunday 😀

[Vecchio]

Paul,

Thanks for the hint where to find you, will be there on Sunday!

Edited November 22, 2022 by Vecchio

[Vecchio]

Last August I was writing about the broken pantograph on my historic 1040 loco, last weekend I was going to attack the beast. First I spent an hour on Hornby and Rivarossi (also Hornby....) spare part sites to find a spare pantograph for this model, but without success. It is a 2020 model, so I thought there should be something. But for some reason there is no spare part for this particular loco available even when in the box is a nice little spare parts page showing all the parts and their numbers.

 

After that I started to look into my bits collection, even I have a few pantographs from locos which went into the loco heaven, of course nothing which could be used. 

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I have to say the panto used on this Rivarossi loco was really very nice, I think they used photo etched parts for it. The metal under the red paint looks like brass, but it didn't take any solder, so repair was practically impossible. What I could do is to rebuild the panto with its broken parts in closed position and fix it with a bit of superglue. I am pleased with the result. 

 

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This means the loco has now only one working panto and can go back on the layout. 

 

And for those forgetful moments of me or my layout drivers I put a note on the inner box so that nobody tries to lift it up....

 

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[Vecchio]

Donnersbachkogel fell into a deep sleep, and even couldn't be set up as my sauna project was in the way (or rather occupied half of my shed). My better half found a used element sauna for little money, and I refurbished the elements during the summer of 2022. As I have some bookings this summer I need to set up the layout to see if everything is working . So I was busy the last few month to get the sauna project out of the way and into summerhouse two, where it belongs. For who is interested what I do if I am not working or playing with trains - see yourself.First the summerhouse

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On the right hand side the sauna

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And inside the sauna

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On the left hand side a bathroom with shower and toilet. 

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Now that this is finished I clean up summer house no1 to get the layout back up. 

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And here is the sleeping beauty which will be woken up tomorrow... 

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The planned new fiddle yard is unfortunately no finished and has to wait for the next season... Only 2 hands and a bad back - this is my excuse... 

I am not that far away from finishing the fiddle yard, but I do not want to risk anything a few weeks before the shows. State of the fiddle yard today... 

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[Vecchio]

After a day of setting up/error searching and finally a bit of playing I can say the following. 

Of course there were the usual spider webs, some bent overhead line and the obligatory short circuit at the beginning. The short circuit I could cure within seconds, as there is one point which always has a problem after a longer break. one time switched and problem gone. Probably I shouldn't be lazy and change the microswitch to a frog juicer... 

But then some more trouble started. Half the signals didn't show lights and also the station lights didn't go, even I heard the relays clicking when I operate the switch. Well a bus wire from the DC bus was lose. Quickly written, but I took quite a time to find it. 

Mulitimeter and soldering iron are my friends...

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Finally this is solved, but there is still one signal where the red light is not working... Also there is a switch at the mimic board I need to change, I cannot switch off the station lights... 

 

View through the window, there is no space to stand behind the layout. The background/scenic break isn't set up, as it makes life easier for testing. 

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Some smaller issues were also found and corrected, at one board end the rail fixings were lose (temperature?) and had to be re-soldered. 

Also the shed door doesn't close, will have a look later this week. 

 

Shed door not closing. 

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A debut for the 1245 from Roco, it went quite well considering I didn't clean the tracks at all. 

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So I am quite happy, I have more than a month time to get everything as it should be. 

 

If you are around and have time: why not coming for a look? 12th August in Roade (close to Northampton) or 19th August in Milton Keynes (Silverfox exhibition)

 

Edited July 2, 2023 by Vecchio
photo problems

[Vecchio]

I just noticed that my layout doesn’t have any ‘Grenzmarken’ (Limit markers, next to points, to show how close a railway car can go to the point without blocking the other track)

How do they look? 

Photo taken by Priwo, 2006

 

There is no excuse, first I am Austrian and know about them, second I had them on my last Austrian show layout.

So into the workshop and let’s start making some. There are commercial available products, but I have a well-stocked workshop, so it would be a shame buying them…

 

Material: commercially available products are normally 3D printed resin. The real stuff is either concrete or even wood. So, for me it will be wood as well. What I need is some very dense wood, olive would be perfect, but I run out of this precious material. Next holiday in the Mediterranean will get the stock up (will purchase a cheap cutting board).  Next best material, also more local, is oak. I normally keep nice pieces of oak in the workshop, which I cut into the necessary stripes with my trusted circular saw (Proxxon FKS). 

 

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Next step is the profile, which I mill in with an R1 concave mill cutter.

With a 1.5mm cutter I mill the length and with a 90 degree cutter the sides.

 

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Now it is time for painting. 2 coats of white matt (or 1 coat cellulose filler and one coat white), and then the black ends.

 

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Now it is time to cut them apart and remove any burr if there was one.

 

Here we go. Time to fix them on the layout.  

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And finally in position. 

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Of course I am 3 pieces short, so I have to make another batch... 

Edited July 6, 2023 by Vecchio
new photo

[Vecchio]

Still fixing small hick-ups on my layout and check out rolling stock. Well my double decker fleet had an issue with a function decoder so I wanted to replace him. Put an old Hattons one on my program trolley (old Kleinbahn chassis) - and after some signs of life it gave up. I can still read CV's but no motor, no lights. Changed to an old Roco decoder (which was so terrible that I replaced it some years ago with a Zimo one). 

I just want the function outputs, but I need some load for programming it. And: surprise: same thing happened. First it worked, suddenly it stopped. Again, I can read and write CV's, but nothing else. 

Well - then I found that I made a short between the grey motor wire and mass (black) because of a lose screw which held the weight... Now I had to order a cheap decoder (Lais) to finish the job. Getting expensive to fix the light on that coach. 🤐😐