Nearholmer Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Good to meet you this evening. I will read back over this, to take in the details. Kevin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 5, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2016 Thanks Kevin, sure we will meet again, I am at the club every Friday. Tuesday is an exception. Back to the poles, masts or whatever you want to call them . Must have been tired the other day and may be also today - as I scribed the position to drill holes into the poles on the wrong side. Not on one, no on all of this production lot... What is worse is that I drilled 48 holes into them before I noticed.... 20161005_192259 Unnecessary - will need to close them with polyester filler.... OK, back into the workshop.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 6, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2016 (edited) Now the holes are on the right side - and you will see what they are for. The little Preiser men need some help climbing the masts, so a kind of climbing support is integrated. This doesn't reach down to the floor - for obvious health and safety reasons. 20161005_223202 20161005_223125 It is not as precise as I want it but a bit of paint and the distance of the viewer will hide some imperfections...(I hope). By the way - how to bend the wires? - Easy. made myself a little bending jig. 20161005_212646 Edited October 6, 2016 by Vecchio 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 7, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 7, 2016 Boring but necessary... Bent 75 brass steps for my tower masts. DSC03637 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 8, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2016 Used all the brass steps and need to make more... Also a jig for the cross span fields is in progress. The two lower wires will be spring steel wire, the upper one with the catenary shape will be zinc coated mild steel wire. This 0.6mm mild steel wire will also be the material for the majority of the contact wires. 20161008_220603. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 9, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 9, 2016 The wire I bought for producing the contact wire is rubbish. I bought it as zinc coated but it is probably stainless. Doesn't take soft solder at all. This throws me back a few days.... Off to the internet to find some alternative. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Hello Vecchio, Wow! My first look back through the Continental section for some months and I find you and your amazing work! Very well done, Sir. Cheers, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 10, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thanks for your kind words! Hope to overcome the wire sourcing problems soon. If anybody has a good source for straight brass wires I am listening! After that full steam ahead with the OHL... Vecchio Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RhBBob Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thanks for your kind words! Hope to overcome the wire sourcing problems soon. If anybody has a good source for straight brass wires I am listening! After that full steam ahead with the OHL... Vecchio Sommerfeldt do reasonable selection of lengths these days:- http://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/gruppenliste/Sommerfeldt/104-4-0-0-001003-0-2-0-0-0-0-grp-gb-p-0/gruppenliste.html Unfortunately they are apparently for 'HO' rather than 'HOm'. However no contact wire is shown on the 'HOm' selection. I use brass lengths from Eileen's Emporium - I'm in '0m' 1/45th scale. https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=126&dir=DESC But sadly I cannot find any listing on that link !! Maybe they are reviewing the suppliers prices or sourcing new supplies !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 10, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thanks for your quick response Bob, I try it at Metalsmith Ltd. at the moment (much cheaper than eileen's emporium), Eileen's has the right length (I need more than the usual 300mm or 12") so if the first one doesn't respond I can go to the second source.... In the past I used Baekerts zinc coated steel wire - this was a mild, triple zinc coated steel wire which worked perfect. Problem is I cannot find it in the UK.... Vecchio Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 13, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Thanks to Metalsmith I have a bunch of straight brass wires on my desk. At 30p per wire not even too expensive. . Parts are prepared for the cross span field. . Now the basic structure is soldered together. Some of the insulators had to go in now as well. . The contact wire will sit on small brackets which are soldered to the cross span field. To give strength to this connection I use a fine wire to wrap around the two steel wires. . Of course this is not prototypical but from 1 meter distance you will not see such details. Now all the little brackets are in position. . Small test fit on the module. I missed the nominal height of 69mm above top of the rail for 1mm (my distance is 70mm). This is well in between the limits for H0 which are from 60mm to 76mm (NEM201). And I am happy with my progress. . . Edited October 13, 2016 by Vecchio 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
duff man Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 This catenary is something else, looks superb. well done. Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 14, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 14, 2016 Thanks Craig! Not yet finished.... much more to come! Also I need to balast the track before putting up something permanently- if not I go crazy But not today - Friday evening is my British day (club).... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Superb attention to detail ! Most impressive Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted October 24, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2016 After 2 days in Paris and one in Southampton I am finally back at my workbench. Before I can put a pole together I need the insulators. They are not insulating as they are made of brass. The first thing I can say that 10 years ago my eyesight was better... The stuff looks much smaller nowadays.. DSC03575 Hi, Wow, these are superb! Im just getting into creating OHL from hand, albeit in O gauge, rather than HO, but can I ask how you created these? Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted October 24, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2016 Well - I made myself a lathe tool - a bit similar to the tool you need for cutting threads into bolts - approximately 60degrees angle. with this I cut the "insulators" from a 3.5mm brass bar - i drill a 0.9mm hole into the bar before. Careful turning is necessary, when I am happy with the shape I cut it off by using a very fine fretsaw. Takes me about 30 seconds to produce one of them. best to do after a stressful day :) I have also made some drawings - if you are interested send me a PM. Of course these cover the Austrian situation - but the principles to build a contact wire system are the same. You have just to look at the actual situation (I suppose you look at the UK) and build the poles as they are in the country of your choice. Vecchio Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 1, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) Finally a bit of progress. Found in the internet a calculation sheet for the catenary curve - just to make it right ... DSC04021 Now it is time for a stencil. I made it the usual way but used a furniture panel scrap piece. this surface lasts longer and suffers less from the temperature and the flux. DSC04018 A bit of soldering is going on. And we have a result, the first piece of contact wire is done. DSC04022 DSC04024 A few more pieces are pre-fabricated but must wait as the business trip season has started... [/url ]DSC04026. The difference between 0.7mm, 0.6mm and 0.5mm is quite significant. Hope the OHL is stable enough to allow proper operation. All is still temporary as I would like to apply the ballast before fixing the OHL. And before applying the ballast I need my H0 dummy Siemens point motors which I have ordered... Hope they come before the weekend. Edited November 1, 2016 by Vecchio 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 7, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2016 Of course the parts didn't come before the weekend, and as the weather was ok (minimum on both mornings) I changed the front garden to winter display. On the model railway side I painted the rail sides of the station module with Revell 83. After that I was looking a syringe - to prepare myself for ballasting. I know I have 2 syringes somewhere in my summerhouse - I checked all drawers and cupboards - then disaster struck. The module fell over and the part with the fiddle yard sidings broke off the main board. I extended in an earlier stage the main board with the fiddle yard - making the fiddle yard frame from plywood. And I left a few gaps of 3mm width to put the scenic break board in later. These gaps worked of course like a perforation...The corners of the fiddle yard board were connected using finger joints - on the left corner these broke completely off. The top board separated on half of its length from the frame. I tried to glue it all back together and clamped it over night, I will for sure need a second round of gluing today. I wonder how bad the board to board connections will be after the repair. The scenic part with the OHL poles and signals looks ok, I need to check when the whole structure is properly glued together again. I hope the reader understands that I didn't take any photos. The idea to make only one provisional leg to work on single boards which I had a year ago was a bad one - the reason that the board fell over was of course that I pushed it - but with 4 legs instead of 3 it would have just moved away instead of falling over... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 7, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2016 Back on track. Still some clamps on it but module is standing again - now on 4 feet.... DSC04028. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 9, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2016 Finally the dummy electric parts arrived and I can think of positioning them and start the ballasting. When I find my syringe ... . But this will be a weekend job as I have packed my suitcase and I am off for business... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 13, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Time for an update. I installed the point motor dummies and the cabling as well as some Indusi magnets (Indusi stands for inductive train control, a system which is widely used in Germany and Austria. This system can control if a train goes over a red signal and forces the train to stop but can also sense overspeed or signalise a warning if the next signal is set on halt). I painted everything which is metal with some mid grey (the German point motors are green - I am modelling Austria so they had to change colour) and the concrete cable trough in some lighter colour representing concrete. Siemens point motor and cabling The indusi magnet is in the middle of the picture - next to the rail joiner. INDUSI. After that I applied some ballast. The name of the picture says it, the ballast is still wet. still wet On this point I added the locking system for the point blades which is normally in use for longer points which can be used at higher speeds. Even the point is a large radius finescale point it would be too short - no need for this locking system in real life. It is used for points with a radius of more than 300m, the Peco point has only 133m radius. But this is the nice thing building a model, for me it is a large point, so I need a locking mechanism... point ballasted. Edited November 13, 2016 by Vecchio 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 21, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 21, 2016 (edited) After that a little cosmetic on the masts. Not really precise but from a normal viewing distance ok. 20161121_212922 Especially after coating with grey primer and colouring the insulators. Now with the right glossy paint. . DSC04041 DSC04044. Now I ask myself if I should leave the colour as it is or if I should paint the masts in rose-grey. Both colours are present at the Austrian OHL. Edited November 21, 2016 by Vecchio 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted November 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2016 After 2 days in Paris and one in Southampton I am finally back at my workbench. Before I can put a pole together I need the insulators. They are not insulating as they are made of brass. The first thing I can say that 10 years ago my eyesight was better... The stuff looks much smaller nowadays.. DSC03575 I put a scalpel into the picture to show you the actual size. Out of 0.7mm piano wire I form the cantilever bracket. this needs 2 pieces of wire - and one of the "insulators" is actually used as a support sleeve to solder the 2 steel wires together. DSC03578 Where the wires are soldered together they are flattened by using a grinder. Now already soldered: DSC03580 The ends need to be tinned as otherwise it is impossible to solder the contact wire to the steel wire later The pole is drilled with 0.9mm DSC03582 Now the whole thing is soldered together and we have a functional and very stable OHL pole. Next time I will try to make it a bit more model like. DSC03583. Do you often do business trips to Paris? You may want to visit Weber in rue de Turenne, 3e. All sorts of bits and pieces for modellers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 22, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 22, 2016 Do you often do business trips to Paris? You may want to visit Weber in rue de Turenne, 3e. All sorts of bits and pieces for modellers. Joseph, Well - I am working for a French company - headquarters in Paris. So - yes, average once a month. I will note this address and have a look. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 22, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 22, 2016 I am slowly proceeding with the masts. Detailing takes quite some time. And a good eyesight... What I have to stock up at Wharley next weekend is L profile brass 1x1mm. I need quite a few of these bits. 20161122_210648 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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