Franzburg Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 Did a little detailing , as fitting the fall plate seemed a bit difficult, I drilled 0,5mm holes in bottom sides of cab and soldered 0,5mm wire to both plate sides. Then I made new small dust guards from brass and long guard irons in front of them. Rgds Bernd 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) My replacement A3 arrived at home today. Fingers crossed it’s a good one. Will be early January before I can tell. Edited December 17, 2019 by two tone green 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franzburg Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 (edited) Shortly before Christmas 3 further photos of Papyrus. Real coal for the tender (on plasticard) and mudguards prototypically broadened a little bit with plasticard. Rgds and blessed Christmas Bernd Edited December 23, 2019 by Franzburg 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay*bobble Posted December 27, 2019 Share Posted December 27, 2019 Has any one received any of the new batch of replacement f scotsman yet eager to see how there compared to the first wave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay*bobble Posted December 27, 2019 Share Posted December 27, 2019 Hope fully the new batch wont have the horrid seem .and wont be so badly put to gather. A friend of mine just ordered one but wont be hear till new year carnt wait to see how it faires up. If any of you has a replacement from this new batch please post a few pick please.happy newyear to to all Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Hattons Dave Posted December 30, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 30, 2019 On 27/12/2019 at 20:52, jay*bobble said: Has any one received any of the new batch of replacement f scotsman yet eager to see how there compared to the first wave Hello Jay, We are still expecting the next batch of O Gauge Class A3s, which includes further stock of Flying Scotsman, to arrive by the end of January. These models will be going through a revised QC process and will have some amendments made to the packaging but not to the tooling itself. If anyone has any issues or concerns with a model they have purchased from us then I would advise contacting our Customer Experience team directly either via phone (0151 733 3655) or email (info@hattons.co.uk) and they’ll be more than happy to assist. I hope this helps. Cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay*bobble Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 My friend ordered one from hattons. I presume dave that these will have been chequed by hattons staff .and that thay wont have the same issues.these a3 really are a credit to your team.its just sum issues that have let sum of them down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay*bobble Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Hi hattons dave the tooling its self I exellent rivet perfect it just is the seem on top of boiler and sum running issues.valve gear failing.and sum of the locos being cruced. Mainly on the buffer beams and above cylinders. Fully aware that is nothing to do with hattons .and is down to Heljan and there QC process.and I think it's fair to say that's the same with the a4 hand rail issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbeatles Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 I think what we have here is a very fine A3...on unboxing , 'wow' what a cracker! After hours of just admiring the loco on its bit of wood, you start to see things, wee niggly things, the absolute crap plastic coal load, akin to what I think would be nice in a crate of oranges, painting it would confirm the fact, its an awful thing!! I only had to touch one of the shields and it came off, same for the cylinder drain cocks, one broke! The chimney shows signs of being twisted off the plastic sprue to which it was moulded! My personal and worst gripe is that awful flimsy thing called a reversing rod, paper thin plastic and onto it the speedo drive has been fixed!?.... I didn't even have to run it to confirm what I thought would happen? It runs totally wonky with the reversing rod bending every which way, very unrealistic and like a cheap toy product!!...not what we'd expect in an expensive scale model!! Lastly, front steps, and air pipes (as per RM loco, we get the latter fitted to the tender) Hatton's say its a 'production thing', then why couldn't these be supplied as 'Extras' to be fitted by owner??? Still a fine loco Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franzburg Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 (edited) Don`t know how people couple a coach to the tender as the corridor connection is in the way. So I detached the rubber bulge (hardly glued) from the tender back , drilled two 8mm holes into the outer edges, fitted brass pins and as there are 3 more plastic pins at the top, it can be removed and refitted now. Rgds Bernd Edited January 2, 2020 by Franzburg 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted January 2, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2020 8 hours ago, Franzburg said: Don`t know how people couple a coach to the the tender as the coach transition is in the way. So I detached the rubber bulge (hardly glued) from the tender back , drilled two 8mm holes into the outer edges, fitted brass pins and as there are 3 more plastic pins at the top, it can be removed and refitted now. Rgds Bernd Very clever solution 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 I think they tried the same thing with 60009’s tender just before Christmas, but that didn’t go so well! N 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franzburg Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 18 hours ago, neal said: I think they tried the same thing with 60009’s tender just before Christmas, but that didn’t go so well! N See link: https://www.railforums.co.uk/threads/union-of-south-africa-damages-carriage-gangway-on-the-elr.197172/ B 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay*bobble Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 I've seen a br f Scotsman with no seem and perfect in every way the first lve seen in person. All should have been this way.gos to show that Heljan can do it if thay try. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay*bobble Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 It made a change from people showing me ones that have problems. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichO Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 I'm rather late joining this thread, so apologies in advance if this has already come up. I pre ordered and purchased the A3 Flying Scotsman when it first became available. However the locomotive was not removed from the box until 25th December (Christmas present from wife!) Beautiful locomotive , looks fantastic. Have spent ages trying to get it to run smoothly with a Loksound 5L decoder and it's now just about OK. Just need to work on the sound chufs, If anyone has advise on good working CV's it would be much appreciated. My biggest problem is the rear bogie. It does not like going over my points, which are numerous, it's jumping off the track at regular intervals. This is really annoying, my other locos are all fine with it, including a Duchess which also has a rear bogie, but it behaves absolutely fine. I did phone Hattons last week, but was asked to email them with the problem, I did that but as yet no response. Any helpful suggestions much appreciated! Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay*bobble Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Hi Richard cut down the spring on the rear poney.the cheque the wheel back to back as it's not standard .I have done 7 a3s and all run fine over points.i have yet to find 1 that has not got this problem .easy fix. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Richard, it’s a while since I did a Loksound, but from memory, I ran the loco at speed step 1, and counted the chuffs during eg 10 wheel revolutions. This will give you a number that should be 30 (three beats per rev) but probably isn’t. Say it’s 39, for example. Adjust the cv in ratio of the number of chuffs - so whatever the cv is now, multiply it by 39 and divide that number by 30 and set the cv to this number. Test it, and repeat if necessary. I think that there’s another cv to adjust the fast chuff rate, which might make it sound better at speed, but once it’s going fast, the “chuffs” blur into a “chutter” anyway. Regarding the rear pony truck, please see my duchess thread (link below). I added a LOT of lead to the truck to keep it down! HTH Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichO Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Thanks for the advise, I will try altering the spring to start with. How many turns of the spring do you remove Jay? Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franzburg Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 14 hours ago, Simond said: Richard, it’s a while since I did a Loksound, but from memory, I ran the loco at speed step 1, and counted the chuffs during eg 10 wheel revolutions. This will give you a number that should be 30 (three beats per rev) but probably isn’t. Say it’s 39, for example. Adjust the cv in ratio of the number of chuffs - so whatever the cv is now, multiply it by 39 and divide that number by 30 and set the cv to this number. Test it, and repeat if necessary. I think that there’s another cv to adjust the fast chuff rate, which might make it sound better at speed, but once it’s going fast, the “chuffs” blur into a “chutter” anyway. Regarding the rear pony truck, please see my duchess thread (link below). I added a LOT of lead to the truck to keep it down! HTH Simon Sorry, maybe I am mistaken, but shouldn`t it be 6 chuffs per rev ? Rgds bernd 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pre Grouping fan Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 48 minutes ago, Franzburg said: Sorry, maybe I am mistaken, but shouldn`t it be 6 chuffs per rev ? Rgds bernd Yes being a 3 cylinder loco, it should be 6 beats per rev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Definitely 6 chuffs per revolution = A1P = A3 = A4 = MN = WC = BoB = RSc. Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Yes, sorry, 6, “D’oh moment”. anyway the process is the same. Use the ratio of the number of chuffs it should do to the number it actually does, and multiply this by the value in the cv, set the new cv to that and try again. atb Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Had chance to play today with my replacement FS and whilst the running gear has survived a good running it it still suffers from loads of bits dropping off at the gentlest of touches. But a new issue has come to light, the gauge of the wires they have preinstalled for the speaker under the chimney. My first example of FS that was returned never really got the running that gave me the chance to listen to it properly. But thinking back the balance between the speaker in the tender and the one under the chimney, same speaker, was wrong. Yes there is more openings under the tender, I drilled holes to let the sound out, the sound coming from the chimney area seemed quieter, more mute. I had drilled out the chimney before any one asks. Then I looked at the wire used to go from the decoder via the plug and socket along the length of the boiler plus a bit and it’s very long for the gauge they have used. Out came the soldering iron and I changed it for wire twice the gauge and it’s much much better. The sound is more balanced and it’s still wrong as it puts the exhaust sound mid way along the loco around the firebox area. But it’s better than having it all from the tender. Next job is to put back all the bits that have fallen off. I may even disable the speaker in the tender. Just by way of a suggestion, I removed the cab by undoing the three screws under it which really made putting the boiler/ weight combination back much much easier. The cab comes off as one unit so easily removed replaced. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franzburg Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 (edited) Short video filmed by mobile (QP) B Edited January 10, 2020 by Franzburg 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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