Producing your own track

[sharris]

Ash

 

I normally get my parts from C&L but have in the past bought from Marcway, who had (and assume still have) an equally excellent service

 

The kit is in my opinion the best entry method for track building, though I have never built one the plastic based kit may be easier to build, as the timbers are ready made and no soldering the rail to the sleepers is required, as they are a slide to fit. I guess you still have to cut and file the rail and there may still be a limited amount of soldering

 

If buying a copperclad kit also get a 00 code 75 roller gauge, 2 are preferable but as its your first go you may wish to keep the costs down. Buy a normal turnout first and keep away from 3 ways and slips

 

The complete C&L kits come with a ready made crossing assembly ( V and wing-rails already soldered up so you just have to drop it into place), and pre-milled switch rails, along with timbers, chairs, tiebars and cosmetic fishplates. While they make a good introduction since they require very little soldering and filing (just adding droppers and cleaning up cut ends), they are quite pricey (£48 for a standard turnout). This was how I made my first (and so-far only!) turnout. 

 

At the other end of the C&L spectrum, their point timber kit just consists of timbers and chairs and you'll have to create your own crossing assembly and switch rails (although you can buy these individually from C&L too if you get stuck), so you need to do some filing and soldering (the books suggested earlier will help you out) but is much more affordable.

 

Can't comment on copper clad options. 

 

As far as I know there are no mixed gauge kits, so that might be more of a DIY affair. 

[hayfield]

The C&L complete kits are a top of the range in track for 00 gauge, but one mus realise the effect of the 1 mm flangeways

 

The chair and timber (part) kit is really what is now called a scratch aid kit. Having said that providing you can solder the Vee together, it is very possible to fit the wing rails using standard chairs trimmed where required (look at the C&L RTR turnouts) so a turnout using plastic timbers and chairs with a minimum of soldering is achievable by a modeller who can build a plastic kit. Use the thicker timbers to match with RTR track and also does not suffer the curl effect that the thin timbers seem to

 

As to whether its an entry level kit, that's dependant of the modellers modelling ability. SMP kits are complete (except for a roller gauge) with a plan and instructions and should the cheaper option for a person who wishes to dip their toe in the water

[martin_wynne]

The complete C&L kits come with a ready made crossing assembly

 

Bear in mind that these 00 kits are supplied with 1mm flangeway gaps in the ready-made crossings.

 

This means that they can be assembled for:

 

DOGA-Fine 16.5mm standards, for which gauges are supplied with the kit. RTR models will need to have their wheels back-to-back widened to 14.7mm.*

 

OR

 

00-SF (4-SF) 16.2mm standards, for which gauges are available separately. Modern RTR models will then run as supplied.

 

Note however that the kits are not suitable for DOGA-Intermediate 16.5mm standards, which is probably what most new users would want and expect to be getting.

 

The templates supplied in the kits are for 16.5mm gauge. They can be fudged for plain turnouts to use with 00-SF 16.2mm, but for diamond-crossings and slips it is essential to have an accurate 16.2mm template (which can be printed from Templot).

 

*C&L acknowledge the need for widened back-to-backs in their notes, but claim that in their experience this is often not necessary. I would take that with a large pinch of salt if reliable running is desired.

 

Please don't turn this into yet another argument about 00-SF (4-SF) and DOGA. The above information is posted simply to avoid beginners being disappointed.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[sharris]

Btw, Martin, can Templot easily create the mixed gauge track work templates that the original poster was interested in?

[martin_wynne]

Btw, Martin, can Templot easily create the mixed gauge track work templates that the original poster was interested in?

 

That depends what you mean by "easily".

 

You can create almost anything in Templot, but mixed-gauge track requires a good working knowledge of Templot.

 

There is a sample mixed-gauge crossover at: http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=289&forum_id=10

 

Download the file and take it apart.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[rjh]

Ashley,

 

Are you able to attend Scaleforum? http://www.scalefour.org/scaleforum/2016/

 

demo stands incl Howard Bolton on track construction

 

lots of other folks to get good advice from

 

plenty of 00 modellers attend this , also expoEM at Bracknell in May,

 

details below,

 

regards Rodney Hills

 

Scaleforum 2016

 

24th & 25th September 2016

 

Stoke Mandeville Stadium

Guttmann Road

Aylesbury

Buckinghamshire

HP21 9PP

[rjh]

hello again

 

just noticed

 

this weekend at Wells, Somerset

http://www.scalefour.org/scalefoursouthwest/2016/

 

regards, Rodney Hills

[Torper]

Overall, it will work out much cheaper than buying RTR track

 

I'm not at all sure that's true.  Not so long ago I worked out that building plain track using laser cut ply sleepers, Exactoscale plastic chairs, and nickel silver rail worked out at about £17 a meter.  Of course the finished product looked very good.

 

DT

[hayfield]

I'm not at all sure that's true.  Not so long ago I worked out that building plain track using laser cut ply sleepers, Exactoscale plastic chairs, and nickel silver rail worked out at about £17 a meter.  Of course the finished product looked very good.

 

DT

 

 

You are quite right about the cost of plain track being much dearer than RTR track, as for the calculations I have not done it.

 

I think Stephen was actually referring to the cost of building turnouts and crossings and building the components (common crossings etc) yourself not using kits

Edited August 12, 2016 by hayfield

[Torper]

You are quite right about the cost of plain track being much dearer than RTR track, as for the calculations I have not done it.

I think Stephen was actually referring to the cost of building turnouts and crossings and building the components (common crossings etc) yourself not using kits

I'm even not sure about turnouts being any cheaper.  A Peco code 75 Large radius turnout retails for about £12.  A C&L turnout kit is £48.  Even if you make it yourself, by the time you've bought the timbers, the various types of chair, the rail and the tiebar I doubt if you'd do it any cheaper than the Peco product.  But please don't let me put anyone off building handmade track - my own layout is built solely with handmade track and it does look so much better than the RTR variety.

 

DT

[hayfield]

If you read my reply it clearly states not buying a kit of parts, but if you buy the basic components and make the parts yourself then the price comparison is much the same using the chaired track build method, copperclad method will be cheaper. You will though have a turnout built to the scale you are modelling, rather than H0 scale model, and can have chaired bullhead track (St base plates and flatbottom rail available for modern era) for steam era rather than flatbottom rail and clips which is fine if you are modelling the diesel era or later

 

In the 60's many made their own track purely on cost grounds, with RTR track becoming cheaper in real terms and the cost of raw materials becoming dearer as you point out the cost is much closer, though you are not really comparing like with like. However building your own trackwork can further enhance your layout and complement the fabulous scale models available in the RTR ranges available today, and despite what many say track building is well within the average modellers capabilities 

[Ashley_]

hello again

 

just noticed

 

this weekend at Wells, Somerset

http://www.scalefour.org/scalefoursouthwest/2016/

 

regards, Rodney Hills

No sorry was on holiday and Buckinghamshire is a tad far for me to go. I will keep a eye out for other events. Thanks for the info.

[Ashley_]

.

Edited August 15, 2016 by Ashley_

[Ashley_]

It there any jigs or fixtures that you can buy or make that will make cutting the track in the correct profile easier?

[Derekstuart]

Hello Ashley

 

What do you mean? Are you referring to making blades, vees or cutting track panels to the correct length?

[hayfield]

Hello Ashley

 

What do you mean? Are you referring to making blades, vees or cutting track panels to the correct length?

 

 

These are two jigs I bought last year from the scale four Society

 

 

This one is for filing the Vee's  1-5, 1-6. 1-7 & 1-8

 

 

This is for filing the switch blades

 

 

This is a very simple home made jig for holding the Vee to the correct angle whilst soldering, its adjustable to which ever angle you require and could be used to check the angle if you manually file the Vee rails

[Ashley_]

These are two jigs I bought last year from the scale four Society

 

69.JPG

 

This one is for filing the Vee's  1-5, 1-6. 1-7 & 1-8

 

78.JPG

 

This is for filing the switch blades

 

337.JPG

 

This is a very simple home made jig for holding the Vee to the correct angle whilst soldering, its adjustable to which ever angle you require and could be used to check the angle if you manually file the Vee rails

Sorry i forgot to mention it was for making the vees and the blades. Do you know if they still sell them or was it just for the show?

[hayfield]

Ashley

 

As far as I know they are still available from the Scalefour Society, normally you have to be a member of the society to buy them, or if you can make Scaleforum at Stoke Mandervile in September they may be on sale there at the societies stand

 

The Vee jig is very simple to use, I get on with the switch blade jig, others do not. Both were £34 each from memory last year and for code 75 bullhead rail

[hayfield]

Ashley

 

If you cannot make the show or feel the cost a bit prohibitive with a bit of thought simple home made jigs can be equally be as effective, just look around for usefull items which can be pressed into service, many could be thought of as scrap. You are limited only by your own imagination 

 

 

 

Here are two photos of a small clamp I made which holds the Vee and wing rails in position whilst soldering them together

 

 

A few pieces of scrap material which makes life much easier, cost zero

 

[dhjgreen]

...

 

69.JPG

 

This one is for filing the Vee's  1-5, 1-6. 1-7 & 1-8

...

 

This is also a vee soldering jig; assemble the vee at the end of the slots where they point together.  A version is also available from EMGS

[Derekstuart]

Problem is that the fit between the rail and the groove is so sloppy that you can quite easily assemble your nice 1:8 vee as a 1:9.6 or whatever.

 

If it's any help to beginners (more experienced types may have developed a 'knack' with these jigs) I would recommend inverting the rails in the jig and placing over a Templot print of a vee. By all means use the jig to hold the rails, but make sure that you do get the right shape first.

This is also a vee soldering jig; assemble the vee at the end of the slots where they point together.  A version is also available from EMGS

[dhjgreen]

Problem is that the fit between the rail and the groove is so sloppy that you can quite easily assemble your nice 1:8 vee as a 1:9.6 or whatever.

 

If it's any help to beginners (more experienced types may have developed a 'knack' with these jigs) I would recommend inverting the rails in the jig and placing over a Templot print of a vee. By all means use the jig to hold the rails, but make sure that you do get the right shape first.

I have just checked as I did not remember any slop. The EMGS jig and rail are a nice snug fit. Did I read somewhere on here that one of the makes of rail is a mite narrow?

[6029 King Stephen]

On the cost comparison I made in my earlier post, I was referring to turnout construction rather than plain track.  If a Peco large radius turnout costs about £12, then making handmade turnouts with copperclad and bullhead rail works out much cheaper than this if you make your own vees and using a bench grinder to make your own point blades.  Initial extra costs include a soldering iron, solder, flux and some jigs to file the vees to the correct angles but as has been shown in a few photos before this reply, many jigs or aids can be homemade from scrap material.  For the tiebar, I have recently been using a supply of P4 ply sleepers and rivets that I bought from the Model Railway shop in Stevenage a few years ago.  I drill a second hole to match the OO gauge width that I am using and then insert a couple of rivets, punch them on a miniature anvil and then solder the point blades to these.  I had wanted to use the small pin advocated by Norman Solomon - a pin is bent over to form an L, the pointed end is pushed through the tiebar and then rotated 90 degrees so that it fits flush to the point blade and is then snipped off for length before being soldered into the web of the rail - but I have not been able to source some soft iron pins suitable for this.  I think I might pay a visit to Hobbycraft when back in the UK. 

 

Plastic individual components might be more expensive than the £12 Peco point but the end results will look much better and be 4mm track rather than 3.5mm track.  Copperclad soldered trackwork, once painted can look like chairs from a normal viewing distance in my opinion.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

[hayfield]

I use 2 mm thick 10 mm wide Aluminium, it does act as a bit of a heat sink, would really like to get some of that heat resistant material at about .5 mm thick which may make life a bit easier, still what I have works fine, great pity filing jigs are not available over 1-8 though 

[hayfield]

On the cost comparison I made in my earlier post, I was referring to turnout construction rather than plain track.  If a Peco large radius turnout costs about £12, then making handmade turnouts with copperclad and bullhead rail works out much cheaper than this if you make your own vees and using a bench grinder to make your own point blades.  Initial extra costs include a soldering iron, solder, flux and some jigs to file the vees to the correct angles but as has been shown in a few photos before this reply, many jigs or aids can be homemade from scrap material.  For the tiebar, I have recently been using a supply of P4 ply sleepers and rivets that I bought from the Model Railway shop in Stevenage a few years ago.  I drill a second hole to match the OO gauge width that I am using and then insert a couple of rivets, punch them on a miniature anvil and then solder the point blades to these.  I had wanted to use the small pin advocated by Norman Solomon - a pin is bent over to form an L, the pointed end is pushed through the tiebar and then rotated 90 degrees so that it fits flush to the point blade and is then snipped off for length before being soldered into the web of the rail - but I have not been able to source some soft iron pins suitable for this.  I think I might pay a visit to Hobbycraft when back in the UK. 

 

Plastic individual components might be more expensive than the £12 Peco point but the end results will look much better and be 4mm track rather than 3.5mm track.  Copperclad soldered trackwork, once painted can look like chairs from a normal viewing distance in my opinion.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve

 

Try the long black Peco track pins, remove the black finish with emery cloth, the odd ones snaps when bent but they are so cheap and most have a stock in their bits box

 

Sorry I misunderstood the cost comparison was for plain track, I did a quick calculation for someone on the cost of parts for a yard of ply track and its over £10, C&L flexitrack is just over £5, Peco is much cheaper but 3.5 mm scale, flatbottom rail and clips not chairs. But hand made chaired track has keys in the chairs (RTR does not) and stained ply does look good, so for special photogenic/viewing spots may be worth the extra effort and cost