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N gauge basics...Advice and info required


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Greetings!

I hope you've all had a splendid summer.

Having built my base, i will be starting construction of my N gauge layout, but there's lots i need to know before proceeding.

Let's start with track: I am intending a single road layout, splitting into two tracks for the planned station, behind which will be a goods yard with sidings for rolling stock, and a two road shed. There's a baffling array of track available, and i don't know what's best. I almost bought the Peco starter pack, and then expanding it, but then thought i'd try asking here, usually a mine of information and experience.

Moving swiftly on: Power. I will be running single trains into or out of the shed or goods yard, if they aren't running around the loop. Is DCC really necessary? Recommendations of make and model of controller appreciated, whatever your taste.

Lastly, signals. What are the different types of semaphore, and where would they found on the layout described above? My theme is going to be Cambrian.

Thanks once again (in advance) for your patience. Looking forward to seeing what you have to say!

Kind regards

Adrian

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As far as track goes try and avoid first radius set track and set track points (these usually come in the starter packs) unless you are going to use small locos with short wheelbases. Most new N gauge locos are designed for second radius points.

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DCC isnt necessary but it will allow you to work headlights (if you are running deisels - not so important with steam) and more flexibilty than track section breaks.

 

However you can build your layout to work with Dc and if at a later stage convert ot DCC by just putting all the section switches to on. This is how my first DCC set up was connected ot a previously conventional DC one.

 

Peco code 55 (yellow boxes) track looks far better than the older code 75 (in blue boxes). Both have turnouts that can be bought with insulfrogs or electrofrogs. Electrofogs mean that you need to do a little more wiring to the layout but give far better pick up to the locos as they cross over the turnout.

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You ask a lot - some of which is often a personal choice.

 

With regards to track I'd also suggest avoiding Peco setrack - the R1 curves are very tight and many model locomotives are not designed/engineered to run around them. Peco code 55, as suggested, looks better and is stronger.

 

DCC is not essential - many layouts still use DC control. However, as mentioned they can be converted later. Diesels headlights will work on DC (appropriate to direction of travel) but will not be switchable and will dim to off as the train stops.

 

I'd also suggest joining the N Gauge Society ;  https://ngaugesociety.com/ for extra help and support. And make full use of RMweb.

 

Good luck.

 

G.

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Hi ,

For my thoughts - I agree re avoiding set track and going for medium and long radius points - all flow much better.  However depending on size and where you want to take your adventure have a look at finN trak code 40 points and track- with time on your hands perhaps this is a place to start, but certainly Peco is a place to start as with careful painting and ballasting a not bad show can be made as many an exhibition layout shows.

 

DCC - go for it . It is the future with sound in N models getting better plus function controls for point motors and the like. Check out lenz and NCE systems - used but not own - others available but think "future proofing" as simple Bachmann systems not that flexible.

 

I would suggest , with respect to all on RMweb you will gain more on the N gauge forum pages as this is an N gauge"only" forum- it has 2mm finescale  folk as well! The N gauge Society certainly worth joining and if 2mm finescale floats a boat the 2mm scale association is very worthwhile joining. 

 

The Cambrian is a good idea with plenty of room for fictitious branches and the like.  In  BR steam era much traction and rolling stock RTA and certainly blue diesel area all available- dmus, 24s gunpowder wagons  MK1 stock to suit. Current scene 158s are the staple with a newly tooled version promised, yellow 37s available and with care suitable stock for railtours possible.

 

Signals - well Dapol do a motorised home and distant in BR and GW versions do unless doing Barmouth Junction most of what you need is on the shelves .      

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Peco Code 55 track. DCC and analogue are just DIFFERENT - just buy what you can afford - DCC costs lots more mind. Keep it simple. Scratch build your own buildings because N gauge plastic kits downscaled from the manufacturers own OO kits are fiddly - or go with Metcalfe card kits. Take your time. Have fun.

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Current scene 158s are the staple with a newly tooled version promised,

 

   

 

I don't recall a retooled class 158 being announced or promised in N gauge - and there was no mention of one at the recent Press Update Day at Barwell (see : http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/113613-Bachmann-farish-half-year-product-update/page-1).Also the retooled OO version seems to have taken a back seat with changes to the spec and now consideration for a low profile motor chassis to be developed.

 

G.

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If you don't want working signals then the ratio ones are cheap, yet look good. If you want top notch you are looking at soldering up MSE kits, which cane made to work. 

 

As others have said avoid set track points and 1st radius curves if you are running steam outline locos.

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This has been a useful thread for me, as I'm contemplating (about three projects in the future) a GN branch line, and have thought of doing it in N gauge (more layout in the space). Thanks for the advice about points, it's something I wouldn't have thought about.

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Another vote for code 55 - electrofrog points. The extra effort in getting the wiring right for them makes a big difference to running qualities (especially if you like 0-6-0 locos).

 

I'd look at using small radius points for the yard and medium for the main line. Large radius points look good but as track and wheel standards don't quite match you'll find your stock bumps its way across the frogs on large radius points much more than it does on small and medium.

 

Another option if you're just starting out is to look at Kato Unitrack.

 

DCC isn't necessary. 100s of layouts manage quite OK on DC. That said, if it's something you're thinking about then it's worth getting hands on with at one of the larger DCC suppliers such ad Digitrains or DCC Supplies.

 

For a DC controller take a look at the Gauge Master range. Alternatively, the DC controller the Bachmann/Farish sell in their train sets is rather good value for money.

 

Happy modelling.

 

Steven B.

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I use a 5 pin din plug for connecting hand controllers into the panel. Many handheld controllers now come ready fitted with the plug. I also put one of these plugs onto panel mounted controllers which meant that if one went wrong it was easily unlpugged removed form the panel and another controller temporarily plugged in.  The same plug is used to connect the DCC to the layout (minus the power feeds - just track feeds).

 

I find that medium radius code 55 work well with virtually all my stock (including US N scale).

 

My next UK N scale layout is likely to use one of the finer scale specialist track but building these could put you off N scale if its your first go. If you are up for these kits then go for it.

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Grand. Lots of extremely useful advice. I knew it would be a good idea to ask here before i bought a the Peco pack, especially since i do have room for wider curves on my layout.

I have to admit to having no idea what Insulfrog or Electrofrog mean, however. As the time i can spend building is somewhat limited between work, membership of a military band, as well as a Brass sextet, and having a toddler to raise, i have to go for the simpler option if i want to have a working layout (relatively) quickly, and i do. Besides which, i'm really not a good handyman, at least where electrics, electronics and wiring are concerned, and there is no local talent to bring in to help. As far as i know, there is no club in the area.

One of the things that drew me to N gauge is the availability of Manors. I've always been interested in the Cambrian, and they seem to be the very spirit of the Cambrian, and as far as i can tell, none of the major manufacturers are making Manors in 00, at least not currently. Anyone tell me how good Dapol are? Is there anything i need to look out for? Any models which should be avoided, especially by a newbie? 

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If you have absolutely no understanding of electrics, or of how an electric circuit is made between a controller, a piece of track, and a loco, then I would recommend you do some research online. There are lots of good resources on this forum and others. If you don't do this then 'electrickery' will remain a mystery and using Electrofrog rather than Insulfrog points will be difficult.

 

Insulfrog points are insulated, so that the road NOT selected is electrically isolated from the rest of the layout, BUT that means that the 'frog' or crossing Vee of the point is also electrically isolated and carries no power so some loco's may have difficulty running through the point at low speed. Electrofrogs have a 'live' frog. This allows for much better slow speed running through points, BUT the road that is NOT selected still have a live connection on BOTH it's rails, 

 

I use Electrofrogs on my layout but you do need to understand DC electric circuits so that you wire your layout correctly.

 

Regards,

 

John P

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The 3 manors that I have are good powerful runners, however they are slow and noisy. The Dapol manor is actually the Ixion manor (Dapol bought the tooling). The early ones are not DCC ready but the conversion is possible.

 

The ones to avoid are the first batch of Ixion ones, they were produced to the wrong scale after a mix up in the factory. The vast majority of these were taken back in by Ixion and remanufactured to the correct scale, there are however still one or 2 out there. The Ixion manors were Torquay Manor, Cookham Manor, Frilsham Manor and Hook Norton Manor. There are correct sized versions of these as well as incorrect sized ones.

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The 3 manors that I have are good powerful runners, however they are slow and noisy. The Dapol manor is actually the Ixion manor (Dapol bought the tooling). The early ones are not DCC ready but the conversion is possible.

 

The ones to avoid are the first batch of Ixion ones, they were produced to the wrong scale after a mix up in the factory. The vast majority of these were taken back in by Ixion and remanufactured to the correct scale, there are however still one or 2 out there. The Ixion manors were Torquay Manor, Cookham Manor, Frilsham Manor and Hook Norton Manor. There are correct sized versions of these as well as incorrect sized ones.

 

Agreed. The Dapol Manors are horribly noisy in a harsh unpleasant way. The almost identical Dapol Halls are however sublime - quiet and smooth - I have two.

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Agreed. The Dapol Manors are horribly noisy in a harsh unpleasant way. The almost identical Dapol Halls are however sublime - quiet and smooth - I have two.

 

I think it varies, my halls are rather noisy as well.

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