BRM will be at The International N Gauge Show!

[SteveCole]

I am delighted to announce that BRM will be exhibiting at The International N Gauge Show on September 10 & 11, 2016! More information to follow...

[grahame]

Still waiting for that 'more information' . . . . .

 

G.

[SteveCole]

Blimey Graheme, you are impatient!

 

Right, BRM will be exhibiting at The International N Gauge Show on Saturday, September 10 and Sunday, September 11 at the Warwickshire Exhibition Centre, Fosse Way, Nr Leamington Spa, CV31 1XN. 

 

Here's what you'll find on the BRM stand:

 

* BRM's new October issue - they'll be Hot Off The Press as the magazine doesn't actually go on-sale in shops until September 15!

* The BRM Guide to Trackplans & Layout Design Volume 2 - we'll only be taking 50 copies, so be quick!

* The Ramsay's Guide to British Model Trains - 9th Edition - we'll be taking 16 copies and selling them at the discounted rate of just £29.99!

* Subscription Offer 1: Free £40 Gaugemaster Voucher & 3 issues of BRM for just £9.99 (you can spend your voucher at the show!).

* Subscription Offer 2: 6 issues of BRM for just £9.99

 

We also have Phil Parker in attendance with a new N Gauge Project that will be appearing in BRM over the coming months. I'll ask Phil to explain more...

 

I hope to see as many of you as possible at the show.

[Phil Parker]

Steve has mentioned that I'm going to be at the show with a new N gauge project so some will want to know what I'm up to.

 

When BRM's attendance was first talked about, I pointed out that we've made several layouts recently, but none in N gauge. This seemed a bit remiss so I went away and pondered a few project ideas.

 

Inspiration comes from the Really Useful Box Company. You'll be familiar with their products, high quality plastic boxes available in a wide range of sizes.

 

Looking at the 70 litre version, not for the first time, I was inspired to build a layout in a box.

 

 

Internal space - 710 x 545 x 190mm

 

We have built a few tiny layouts in the past and they always go down very well with exhibition visitors. Tiny projects get over the “I don't have enough space” hurdle. More to the point, if the model lives in a box then it's easier to persuade the rest of the family you're not going to fill the house with model railway. The thing can live under a bed or on top of a wardrobe when not in use. You don't have to worry about the model getting dusty or damaged either.

 

If I'm going to build a layout then the most important thing is it needs to be attainable. There's nothing better than knowing someone has copied what I've done – several versions of Ruston Quays are out there for example and at least a couple of Edgeworths.

 

So, nothing clever, terribly expensive or requiring exotic materials.

 

The plan is to keep it simple but teach as many skills as possible. That way, once you've built the first layout, those skills can be used to create something far more interesting.

 

With this in mind, we have decided to use Kato trackwork. It should be as easy to use as track can be. There's not even any ballasting to do. I have a feeling some weathering might be a good idea though.

 

Firing up AnyRail5, I worked out we can manage a circuit in the space available. On its own, that's dull so I've added a single siding.

 

 

Now I know this isn't the most exciting layout in the world but there is another consideration. I'm going to attempt to build this, or at least most of it, in two days at the show. By the end of the second day, I hope to have a train circulating through a scenic landscape with some buildings. That precludes building one end of Newcastle station or anything else terribly complex. And I've never built an N gauge layout before so I'll be learning as I go along.

 

Will it come off? I don't know, but it will be fun to find out. A shopping list has been made. I'll let you know how I get on.

[wollastonblue]

Just a suggestion Phil. As a small layout I'm guessing you are using small tank/diesel locos. I came up with this:

 

 

Although it may be more expensive as it uses more track, you do get the potential for operation, with one engine shunting while a passenger is going on the outer loop. It's a shame Kato don't do a 3-way point like Tomix then you could have an small inglenook in the middle.

 

I look forward to seeing this at TINGS.

 

 

[Phil Parker]

Just a suggestion Phil. As a small layout I'm guessing you are using small tank/diesel locos. I came up with this:

 

BRM Mag Box.jpg

 

Although it may be more expensive as it uses more track, you do get the potential for operation, with one engine shunting while a passenger is going on the outer loop. It's a shame Kato don't do a 3-way point like Tomix then you could have an small inglenook in the middle.

 

Designing for a tiny space is great fun isn't it!

 

The plan looks interesting but I'm going to stick with mine for TINGS. It's not just extra track required but a second controller. Worse, a whole lot of extra wiring if we run it on DC (which we are) and that is a problem if I'm going to build this in two days. Im hoping to avoid building a control panel, the point operation being a couple of buttons under the hill.

 

This IS an artificial constraint of course. Most people would sensibly prefer the greater operating potential of your plan and be happy to spend longer on construction. I agree that an inglenook in the middle would be nice too. If I hadn't been keen to have an oval of track, I'd probably have tried this using points instead. Never say never though - there are even post TINGS ideas for this project.

 

I look forward to meeting you and everyone else at TINGS. This should be an interesting and fun project. At the moment I'm awaiting a box of material and thinking about getting the baseboard wood cut.

[Phil Parker]

A box of track and materials has arrived from Gaugemaster who are generously supporting this project.

 

 

First impressions are that the Kato track looks good. I ordered a spare length to experiment with as well, the very clean ballast will benefit from some weathering.

 

The Kestral Design buildings should be simple enough to put together, and they are very reasonably priced, but I might indulge in a little personalisation when assembling them as well.

 

Anyway, with this lot to hand, I'll go and order some baseboard wood.

[D9020 Nimbus]

Can't see why wollastonblue's plan needs a second controller—there is really only one oval there, despite appearances.

 

Kato points have built-in motors and come with the switches (which plug into the Kato controller). Just one thought—are you using the #4 or #6 points? In my experience, most British outline stock (and some others) will not successfully negotiate the #4 points—and this appears to be a common experience. The #6 points have a better reputation, but will take up much more space.

 

If your plan depends on #4 points, can I suggest a rethink?

[Phil Parker]

Can't see why wollastonblue's plan needs a second controller—there is really only one oval there, despite appearances.

 

Kato points have built-in motors and come with the switches (which plug into the Kato controller). Just one thought—are you using the #4 or #6 points? In my experience, most British outline stock (and some others) will not successfully negotiate the #4 points—and this appears to be a common experience. The #6 points have a better reputation, but will take up much more space.

 

If your plan depends on #4 points, can I suggest a rethink?

 

Two controllers are needed if you want to have "one engine shunting while a passenger is going on the outer loop". OK, the passenger could just be sat there but that's not as much fun.

 

Hmmm. The point I have is R481 - is this a #4? If so I'm going to have to live with it, even if this means finding out what the problem is and fixing it. One of the problems with fitting the layout in a box is that a larger point means scrapping the project and starting again. It's too late for that I'm afraid.

 

The good news is that using a 9V battery I've run my Pannier tank through both directions without any trouble. If a six-wheel loco is fine, presumably bogies and 4-wheel wagons will be OK as well.

[grahame]

I hope you're not cheating and undertaking some of the layout build prior to the show - although I'll let you get away with the planning.

 

It'll be nice to see if you can get a micro layout completed during the show opening times. It might mean no talking and that might be quite difficult. :-)

 

Good luck.

 

G.

[Phil Parker]

I hope you're not cheating and undertaking some of the layout build prior to the show - although I'll let you get away with the planning.

 

It'll be nice to see if you can get a micro layout completed during the show opening times. It might mean no talking and that might be quite difficult. :-)

 

Good luck.

 

G.

 

Before the show I will build the baseboard (square of 9mm ply with some thin framing) and a building. I have enough to pack in the car without woodworking tools and anyway, the ply will be cut by my local (Warwick) wood shop so there's not much building there.

 

I'd like to finish a house so I have something to talk about. Then I can assemble the others and explain how they will end up but it's more interesting is there is a "here's one I made earlier".

 

Apart from that, the plan is:

 

Saturday - Track laying, wiring, build the big hill. Maybe start on a building or two.

Sunday - Ground cover. Plant buildings. Run a train.

 

How much there is to do after the show is down to how much chatting/eating cake I do. I'll expect a bit of detailing and fiddling but there are some magazine pages to fill so I'll need to crack on!

[wollastonblue]

Hi Phil,

 

I am surprised you haven't gone for the Kato Controller and Point Switches as this would reduce your construction time by eliminating all but a tiny bit of wiring. The R481 point don't really pose a problem to much stock in my experiences with it. If a Fleischmann 2-10-0 BR52 had no issues with the point or the radius of the curves. 

 

Cheers

[Phil Parker]

Good point. I'm going to need the Kato DC converter to make the 16V AC from the controller accesory output into DC for point operation. It's just a bridge rectifier, but since it's designed for the job, one will save me messing around with electronics.

 

The controller? Well, I've been a very happy Gaugemaster controller user for over 25 years so I don't tend to think of anything else - and as they are generously sending me one, I'm certainly not going to argue!

[ParkeNd]

Freebie copies of recent issues of BRM - in a free carrier bag?

[Phil Parker]

I've been playing with the track and it looks like I can stop worrying that it won't work.

 

You can see a quick video on YouTube.

 

The Kato track is interesting. Nice and rugged, ideal for beginners I'd suggest.

 

 

The point comes with a specially shaped piece to fit the ballast shoulder and a curve so both track emerge parallel.

 

The sleepers look a bit spindly and there is an awful lot of ballast. As far as I know, they don't sell a matching loose pack of plastic stones, pity as these would be useful.

 

While there are mouldings underneath to guide track pins, I think I might hold it down with carpet tape. As well as being quick to use, it would allow the track to be lifted again in the future if required.

[SteveCole]

Freebie copies of recent issues of BRM - in a free carrier bag?

 

Maybe a free carrier bag...if you buy something!

[grahame]

 

The Kato track is interesting. Nice and rugged, ideal for beginners I'd suggest.

 

The sleepers look a bit spindly and there is an awful lot of ballast. As far as I know, they don't sell a matching loose pack of plastic stones, pity as these would be useful.

 

The odd thing is that because each section ends with part of a sleeper, that is more than half the width of the others, you end up with an extra wide sleeper at every joint (as well as an obvious bulky plastic shroud to the fishplates). Also the bulbous running head/part of the rail has an exaggerated and pronounced tall rectangular section with its height a lot more than the tread width. But it is robust and useful for laying out a test running track that can be repeatedly taken up again, making it good for beginners.

 

G.

[Phil Parker]

The odd thing is that because each section ends with part of a sleeper, that is more than half the width of the others, you end up with an extra wide sleeper at every joint (as well as an obvious bulky plastic shroud to the fishplates). Also the bulbous running head/part of the rail has an exaggerated and pronounced tall rectangular section with its height a lot more than the tread width. But it is robust and useful for laying out a test running track that can be repeatedly taken up again, making it good for beginners.

 

I'd agree, especially about the beginners. For anyone nervous about track laying, it could make the difference between having a layout and not.

 

Using it is one of the useful things magazines can do - the readers can take a look at our experience and decide to copy us or not. Using a varied selection of products is important to provide plenty of options for modellers. After all, some products suit some and not others, there's many ways to achieve the same goal in this hobby. 

[Phil Parker]

 

While most of the work on this layout will take place at TINGS, I need a few pieces for "Here's one I made earlier" duty. Building assembly is scheduled for Saturday but painting will take 2 days, so if you see me start, you don't see the finish.

 

No problem, I wanted to see if there were any pitfalls so I've assembled the first Falcon kit - a house.

 

Everything goes together perfectly and the only tweaks I've made are replacing the drainpipes with 0.9mm brass wire and sanding the domed chimney tops flat.

 

It's not a bad looking model but the windows seem a little thick. For the next model I'm going to try painting them black and then dry brush the white (Humbrol 147) onto the surface of the bars to hide the depth. Once glazed with Krystal Klear, I think this will look better.

 

I'd also like to give the next house an extension. 2mm embossed Plasticard has been bought (from Guildex!) but I'm wondering about roof materials. Any suggestions?

[grahame]

 

I'd also like to give the next house an extension. 2mm embossed Plasticard has been bought (from Guildex!) but I'm wondering about roof materials. Any suggestions?

Make the roof substrata from smooth flat material (styrene or card) and once fixed in place cover with Redutex roof tiles sheet - it's easy to cut, has a good looking 3D embossed effect, self adhesive (easy and quick to apply), ready coloured (no need to paint) and looks good.

 

That is what the pitched roofs of this scratch-built N gauge building are made from:

 

 

 

G.

[Phil Parker]

Make the roof substrata from smooth flat material (styrene or card) and once fixed in place cover with Redutex roof tiles sheet - it's easy to cut, has a good looking 3D embossed effect, self adhesive (easy and quick to apply), ready coloured (no need to paint) and looks good.

 

That is what the pitched roofs of this scratch-built N gauge building are made from:

 

I've used Redutex in the past and it's brilliant - which probably means the plastic parts will look poor in comparison . For this project, I'm not going to scratchbuild any buildings but the idea of a lean-to extenstion might be fun. Depending on how much time I have. If people feed me enough cake, straight assembly will be the order of the day :-)

 

What about plastic alternatives? Ratio? Slaters? I've never been a fan of the laters roof material in 4mm scale but the embossing process might work better in 2mm.

 

Whatever, it's all interesting and I'm looking forward to chatting and learning on the stand this weekend.

[grahame]

 

What about plastic alternatives? Ratio? Slaters? I've never been a fan of the laters roof material in 4mm scale but the embossing process might work better in 2mm.

 

 

 

Slaters is weak (there are brick/tile papers that look better) and N gauge Ratio sheets are horribly thick and difficult to work with. I'd highly recommend Redutex 2mm tiling - I don't think it will show up the plastic brickwork as it's not brick, and should be able to stand comparison with the main roof as it's an added on lean/to extension which are generally built later and have different tiles/roofing finish. And presumably you are painting the plastic so that shouldn't look plasticky and shiny.

 

G.  

[Phil Parker]

More prep: Building the baseboard. I know it's cheating a little but since the board is no more than a 9mm plywood rectangle with some softwood bracing, I don't think anyone is missing much if I don't do this for an audience.

 

First up, the wood is cut for me at Torrys Hardware, about a 15 minute drive from the show. They wouldn't lend me the big saw machine, another reason not to try doing this at the show.

 

 

Back at home, the corners are rounded or cut off so the board will fit in the box and I can get my fingers underneath to lift it out.

 

 

Then some inch deep softwood was added around the edge. A cheap DIY store mitre saw makes this job a lot easier. 20mm pins and wood glue secure everything.

 

Now, all I have to do is pack it in the car, along with all the tools and materials I'll need over the weekend. Let's hope I remember everything!

 

(Incidentally, if you are struggling to persaude the family that a trip to TINGS is a good idea, the Leamington Food Festival is on this weekend. You could drop them off and head to the show - well, the parking is cheaper than in town)

[Huw Griffiths]

More prep: Building the baseboard. I know it's cheating a little but since the board is no more than a 9mm plywood rectangle with some softwood bracing, I don't think anyone is missing much if I don't do this for an audience.

 

First up, the wood is cut for me at Torrys Hardware, about a 15 minute drive from the show. They wouldn't lend me the big saw machine, another reason not to try doing this at the show.

 

If anyone complains about not demonstrating this sort of stuff at the show, you only need to mention "Health & Safety".

 

If even this fails, just suggest that a number of clubs threatened to "pull" their layouts if woodworking machinery was used anywhere near their masterpieces (like in the same hall).

 

There'd probably be quite a bit of truth in suggestions like this - after all, I can't imagine sawdust clouds being conducive to good running of your average N gauge layout.

 

 

Huw.

[Andy Y]

The team at the show this weekend are set up and ready for the morning with some good value offers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Be quick if you need any of those trackplan bookazines!