Spotlc Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 Hi everyone I have been trying to save a dxf file from Inkscape to modify in my CAD (Draftsight 2018), before passing on to a laser cutter. Problem: no matter what I do the file size always seems to be 4kb and when opened in Draftsight all I get is a completely blank screen. I have tried openning the saved files in Inkscape and there are blank there as well. Therefore, I suspect that my problem is in the saving part of the process. I think that I have tried every option in the options box when saving, but ..... Has anyone any useful suggestions to enable me to do this 'simple' task? Regards David Hi David, I don't have any experience of using Inkscape to output to a machine, but I stumbled across this site whilst looking for something else, and remembered your question: http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/big-blue-saws-dxf-export-for-inkscape.html Looks as if it might do the trick - the link to the download is at the end of the article, Regards, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meltonpieman Posted August 19, 2018 Share Posted August 19, 2018 Hi David, I don't have any experience of using Inkscape to output to a machine, but I stumbled across this site whilst looking for something else, and remembered your question: http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/big-blue-saws-dxf-export-for-inkscape.html Looks as if it might do the trick - the link to the download is at the end of the article, Regards, Mike Hi Mike That looks interesting and I will explore it as they seem to have sorted some accuracy problems. I actually found my own fault/solution by mistake. The files that are exported from Inkscape seem to be a a very high zoom factor and so I could see nothing. By zooming to 'see all' in Draftsight the file becomes visible (all be it at a very low zoom factor). Your link looks good and I will explore it later. Regards Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 (edited) 0-6-0 At last I found the intended chassis, the Bachmann Billy chassis I re-wheeled ages ago. I thought it would be slim enough to make a tiny shunting loco like this Hudswell Clark but perhaps not one as small as a Manning Wadrle. I can place the bits of the body over the motor and try them for size for the first time. I'll carry on showing the development work on this model back in the Scratch building or modifying sections. Edited September 6, 2018 by relaxinghobby 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul9415 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 On 28/09/2016 at 16:14, MikeTrice said: This is a quick proof of concept to show how I do rivets. The basic technique is to produce two layers of 10 thou, one to have the rivets embossed into, the other to act as a rivetting template. With careful thought the rivetting template can form part of the final build. So taking a wagon as an example my intention here is to form the main sides from 4 laminations of 10 thou with a fifth layer of 10 thou strapping. For the outside layers here I have a planked (engraved) side with the rivet positions cut out by the cutter then drilled 0.5mm. The rectangle to the left is the corner plate: The corner plate has been welded in place and I have opened up the holes for one of the door straps. Note that to aid positioning when engraving the planking I also engraved an outline for the strap: For the inner side one piece is engraved and the other spot marked for the rivet positions.: The two inner sides are glued together then the rivets pressed out from behind using an old school compass with the work piece resting on a self sealing cutting board (I should have removed cutting burrs first, but forgot): For the outer side the door strap was fixed in place using the outline as a guide and put aside for the solvent to harden. Finally the rivets were pressed in from the back again with the compass (again forgetting to de-burr): I then laminated the inner and outer side together completely forgetting that I intended to have 4 layers + strapping so ended up with 3 layers + strapping. A couple of images showing the side after having a quick coat of primer: What I have done here may seem odd, fixing the strapping first with solvent rather than embossing in their own right. I have found in the past that the enbossing process can distort the strapping (typically bulging where the rivets go). This way the strapping tends not to do this. I would also benefit by taking off the sharp tip of the compass against some wet and dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul9415 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Hi Mike A very basic question, how do you arrange the holes in the side so you can push the compass point through to make the rivets on the strapping, I have place a guide line to keep them in line ,but cant get the circle tool to make the holes consistent ,& I have tried control D to duplicate ,but with no success, can you advise? I would also like to thank You ,Jason & the other Mike & everybody else who has contributed on Inkscape & the silhouette cutter, it is a marvellous body of work & much appreciated-long may it continue Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 That is going back a bit. I do use the circle tool to mark rivet positions and they are very small circles. As ling as the cutting tool marks the styrene there is enough to start drilling the hole right through. I have not had issues with accuracy. Can I suggest you PM me your file and I will have a look and see if I can advise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 I'm now the owner of the Cameo 4 as of this week, and I've have bought some sheets of 15thou HIPS. Can someone tell me what card type to chose for these or have I got to add a new type? and what settings should I start with, as the Autoblade wont be able to set it's choice. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Following on from my last post, I’ve worked out how to create my own material types and what settings to use on 10thou & 15thou HIPS. I can get through 20thou far enough to be able to snap out what I’ve cut. I have bought a twin set of the 2mm Kraft blades with a view to using them on the 20 thou HIPS using the white adapter that comes with the Cameo 4 in holder 1. The machine recognises the blade type but the user has to set the blade depth manually. Has anyone successfully cut 20thou with a Kraft blade in a Cameo 4 and what settings did you use? From first views it looks like you have take the blade out after every run to change the blade depth, a tool is provided but you can’t get it on the holder because the scroll bar is in the way. Has anyone else come across this. dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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