brossard Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 I read that there were two lots, one for WR and one for LMR. The LMR vehicles were not fitted with gangways. I note that the versions on Rails site include only one LMR version in blue (yecch!) and with gangways. Anyone know if there will be later versions for LMR in green? John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Just taken delivery of the latest Heljan offering, the first of the DMU series announced a couple of years ago First impressions are that it looks the business and once weathered, it will look even better! The interesting news is that it is fitted with a 21 pin socket, so just a question of removing the blanking plate and plugging in your prefered 21 pin decoder. space has been allowed in the chassis for an ESU 23mm dia speaker. The headcode boxes are lit and directional and there is a slide switch underneath for cab the cab lights.It will have a good blow at the Club this evening and I will report back as to how that went tomorrow.regardsMike 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Herewith 'the works' it appears to be similar to the Mashima double ended motor, with the brass worm acting directly onto an 18T nylon pinion. Pick up is on all eight wheels. I will get into the innards after lunch. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Certainly looks the business!! Hurry up Parcel force and deliver mine ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Mine arrives in one hour according to the DPD tracker. I get home tomorrow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Herewith the 'innards' - it took quite a while to take the body off after removing the retaining screws, the fit of the bulkheads is much on the tight side and there are a number of studs, (used to transfer power to the lights) that could have been a better fit, that got in the way - even more so when replacing the body! Also discovered that one of the pickup wires had come adrift so the bogie side was prised off (typical Heljan 'fixing') so that was re-soldered. The chassis is die-cast and the bogies are held on via 'circlips'. The loudspeaker will need to have a plug and socket in the line as the speaker housing is in the piece that is removed when the body fixing screws come out. cheers Mike 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Did they have rear red marker lights in the green livery by any chance or did they use oil lamps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 They used oil lamps until they were refurbished and running in blue, in the same way as the Class 121/122 bubble cars. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Thanks Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 The decoder - Zimo MX644D and speaker were collected from the sorting office this morning and I have now removed the body from the chassis and then the blanking plate from the PCB - and guess what, no indication on the PCB nor in the 'instructions' as to which terminals/pads are for the speaker wires. This and the fact that my comments above regarding the wires from the decoder to the loudspeaker,have been born out, in as much as the two holes already through the chassis are too small even for a mini two wire plug and socket to pass through. Headscratching of the first order is needed before I proceed any further. This is the Heljan PCB with the blanking plate removed. The Zimo instruction sheet shows the loudspeaker pins as No 2 & 3 from the top of the right hand line (adjacent to the left of CN5. CN1 & 7 are for the route indicator boxes and CN3 & 9 are for the cab lights and the two black leads (between CN2 & 3) go to the micro switch that controls the cab lights.Perhaps CN5 is the connector for the loudspeaker, I have emailed Tower to see if they are any the wiser, I will report back when I have the solution.regardsMike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted January 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) I received my class 128 last night, and am delighted with it. To my eyes Heljan have captured the quirkiness of the prototype to perfection. If I have any criticism it is that the typeface used for the head codes is a touch too bold (to my eyes, at least). I have not yet attempted to replace the head codes with marker dots, but may do so in the future. I can confirm that unit is driven through one bogie only, and that the drive seems smooth and controllable, even at low speed. The die-cast chassis is nice and solid and ensures that there is plenty of traction. The chassis itself has plainly been designed to be suitable for all the forthcoming DMUs in the Heljan range, with the crucial under frame equipment being a separate chunky plastic moulding enabling Heljan to vary what sits between the bogies, but still employ a common chassis. My one point on this is that there remains very limited room for a decent speaker. Indeed, I think I have larger speakers in my OO-guage DMUs than can be accommodated in the space provided by Heljan on the 128. That said, on that unit at least, there is plenty of space within the body to conceal a chunky speaker, and that is what I intend to do, once my sound-decoder arrives. For those who haven't yet seen the unit in BR blue, herewith a few appetite-wetting pictures. PM Edited January 13, 2018 by uk_pm 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkwup Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 The decoder - Zimo MX644D and speaker were collected from the sorting office this morning and I have now removed the body from the chassis and then the blanking plate from the PCB - and guess what, no indication on the PCB nor in the 'instructions' as to which terminals/pads are for the speaker wires. This and the fact that my comments above regarding the wires from the decoder to the loudspeaker,have been born out, in as much as the two holes already through the chassis are too small even for a mini two wire plug and socket to pass through. Headscratching of the first order is needed before I proceed any further. P1000983.JPG This is the Heljan PCB with the blanking plate removed. The Zimo instruction sheet shows the loudspeaker pins as No 2 & 3 from the top of the right hand line (adjacent to the left of CN5. CN1 & 7 are for the route indicator boxes and CN3 & 9 are for the cab lights and the two black leads (between CN2 & 3) go to the micro switch that controls the cab lights. Perhaps CN5 is the connector for the loudspeaker, I have emailed Tower to see if they are any the wiser, I will report back when I have the solution. regards Mike Hi Mike, I've made the same experience with the Heljan AC Railbus. The PCB looks very much like the one implemented in the AC Railbus, probably a standard type. And yes, "CN6" is the correct port for the speakers. The next issue is finding the corresponding type of plug. You (and others) will need this item http://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/02sur-02sur-32w150/lead-2way-0-8mm-150mm/dp/3852313?ost=02SUR-02SUR-32W150&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-GB%2FElement14_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch Like you I contacted Tower Models. They confirmed the issue and promised improvements with the next models from Heljan, no further help or support was given. Obviously Heljan didn't improve anything - very disappointing. It would be so easy to simply add two sentences to the instruction and supply a fitting connector (for a few cents) with the model. BTW Another guarantee issue with a broken part was also rejected with the simple reply, that Tower Models does not supply spare parts and to contact Heljan. No reply at all from Heljan at the given contact. The poorest kind of support I've experienced so far. Klaus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Hi Klaus, many thanks for the heads up regarding the connector plugs. As I said, I am sure that I have some Heljan PCBs that I have removed from locos in the past that might provide the necessary plugs, if not, I can cut off the lead to the roof fan and use that as I do not run the fan off of the DCC decoder. I wait with baited breath regarding the circlips. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2018 Perhaps CN5 is the connector for the loudspeaker, I have emailed Tower to see if they are any the wiser, I will report back when I have the solution. regards Mike Mike, for the life of me I cannot see connector "CN5"...............is it reverse mounted on the board? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Hi David, a typo on my part - should have said CN6. Replying to a query from another Forum, The internal plan dimensions of the speaker enclosure are 33.5mm long x 22.0mm wide it is all plastic and the columns are for fixing the ESU 23mm dia speaker, although neither Heljan nor ESU supply the screws to achieve the fixing!The double Zimo speaker that I have would just fit lengthways if I remove the two end walls and that is the prefered option (A) but it is how the wires are connected in such a way as to enable the whole of this unit to be detached in order that you can gain access to remove the body. The circular hole is for the 'shipping screw' to pass through to hold the baseplate onto the chassis via a threaded hole. I will need to enlarge both holes to 6.5mm dia. to allow a two way mini connector to pass through - (widest dimension is 5.5mm) and just rest on the unit floor, having poked the wire - long enough to allow initial separation of this unit from the chassis, back through. here not being any space or recesses between the top of this unit and the underside of the chassis. I assume that the angled rectangular hole - there is a corresponding hole in the chassis, is for wire to pass through, but in my mind does nothing to overcome the problem.All very difficult to put into words and a video of the operation would take longer to set up than execute! I will keep you informed of any progress made.regardsMike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 I cut away three walls of the speaker enclosure and the speaker securing spigots to fit a Zimo speaker. I then fitted a four millimetre thick platicard plate between the two steps that are at each end of the dummy diesel motors to allow the speaker to sit on and not rattle. Sounds very good. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Hi TTG, your installation is exactly how I envisaged mine to be. Could you please post a photo showing the connections of the speaker cable at the PCB and also, what allowance have you made to take account of disconnecting the moulded 'engine block' form the chassis to allow the removal of the body. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Hello Mike I solder my speaker wires direct to the decoder, Loksound V4 21 pin, and just drilled a small hole in the plate that the decoder is mounted on, fed the wires through it and then the square hole which is in the chassis and plastic engine moulding then soldered onto the speaker. For me to remove the body I just remove the four securing screws and lift the body off. No need of a plug as everything is separate to the out body shell. The white inner that has the lighting bar for the parcels area and cab lighting stays with the chassis. In fact the four screws are semi captive in the plastic engine moulding and holds the moulding in place under the chassis. Other than the tight fit of the body it’s by far the easiest Heljan O gauge model I have done which is well on its way to 100. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Forgot to ask, you mention studs to transfer power to lights but there are no lights in the body. Everything is mounted on the chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi TTG, many thanks for explaining your installation and the fact that by following the instructions, I have blown up a non-existent problem out of all proportion. I will as I said earlier, fit my speaker as originally intended and as you have done . As far as the speaker connections are concerned, I have ordered some 00 light leads from Howes which have mini plugs already fitted and are hopefully the same size as those on the Heljan PCB - if not, then I will order an ESU adaptor plate from SWD, wire that up and discard the Heljan PCB . As for the studs, they are i fact just the fixings for the corridor connector end plates which had not been pressed fully home and thus not allowing smooth removal of the body from the chassis. Enjoy your model, I will be enjoying mine hopefully by the end of the week, when it should be back in one piece and making sound as it should. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi Mike Enjoy your model. It’s a really good runner and I hope Heljan use the same set up in their other DMU’s due out. Simple quick and easy to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I just wish manufacturers would design their boards to make soldering the speaker connections easier. I'd like to see the pads further away from the decoder pins and well spaced apart. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) The solder pads for function out put and track motor on the 21 pin V4 are not too bad but at the other end are the ones for the stay alive power pack and I find them very tricky but as yet no mistakes Edited January 15, 2018 by two tone green Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 I've managed OK too. Just a bit scary with the connections being so close to one another (thinking of Dapols Terrier here) and the danger of getting a blob of solder touching the next or desoldering something else. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 The lights ordered from Howes as mentioned in the post #23 above have arrived and they are the same size as those used on the O Gauge Class 31 that I tried - so it is now down to using the ESU adaptor board ordered from SWD yesterday which should be in the post today.In the meantime I have cut out the speaker housing as supplied and in doing so, the 'wall' at the top of the picture also came out as it formed part of the side walls. The provided pegs for the circular speaker screws were also removed to a level lower than that of the 'shelf' on the left hand side and the right hand side shelf was scraped down to the same level as the left hand. With the speaker in place, you are left with a convenient gap for the wires to pass under on their way through the rectangular hole and onto the adaptor board. The speaker will be held onto the shelves with strips of double sided tape or blue tack.Next post should hopefully show the adaptor plate in position.regardsMike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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