two tone green Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 I would suggest putting a plate, 4mm thick in my case, so the speaker sticks to it as the speaker can cause the dummy engine mouldings to rattle. I found that by using a plate it joins the mouldings together and stops any rattles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Plus, forgot to add, the plate improves the frequency response of the speaker adding slightly lower end frequencies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Hi TTG, thanks for the tip, I'll laminate some plasticard for the shelf while I'm waiting for the adaptor plate to arrive. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Make sure the dummy engines are glued down as well as mine were not glued down properly.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Here’s the diagram 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Hi Steve, many thanks for taking the trouble to post the diagram. It does confirm the loudspeaker connections are CN6, the problem is getting hold of a suitable plug to fit the socket. I have, as I said earlier, decided to go for the ESU adaptor plate and go from there - hopefully, it will be in today's post. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 I received the adaptor plate yesterday - unfortunately after I had gone down to the Club for the usual running session, so I cleared the decks this morning and set to. Mounted the plate on a suitable mound of bluetac and worked from top to bottom (as necessary) with the plate angled across the bench, matching the angle that I offered the soldering iron and I was very please with the outcome. I soldered 150 lengths of the appropriate coloured wire so that I could then pair up with the red/black wires already fitted, away from the small pads on the plate. I have wired up the cab lights and interior lights as separate circuits and have by-passed the switch that is provided for the cab lights and used Swiss Mapping for this function. All was well until I placed the model on the track and switched the power on - a short straight away. So off came the body and I set to with the meter, to discover very quickly that the pick-ups on the bogies were different at each end - motor bogie red nearest me, trailing bogie black nearest me - I had connected reds with reds and blacks with blacks elsewhere and all had been fine! so it was a simple job to cut the trailing bogie wires and swap them over. Body replaced and power switched on - all fine and some awesome sounds coming out from underneath!!!!!!!!!! Running number reprogrammed and Swiss Mapping done - so it's down the Club tonight to give it a good run. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Gosh, I did not know there were solder pads for 150 lengths of wire on the adapter plate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Gosh, I did not know there were solder pads for 150 lengths of wire on the adapter plate. Hi TTG, don't get too excited - I soldered the wires onto the pads to make the connections to the existing wires less of a fiddle. I will take some photos tomorrow. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 The running session last night was very successful and the model was well received by the other members, the main comment being - bring on the DMUs W55991 leaving the Intentio service shed on the Wirral O Gauge Group's 'under construction' layout Moss End MPD Here as promised, a couple of shots of the adaptor board with the wires attached and one with the Zimo MX644D in place The leaflet that came with the adaptor board was in German and there seems to be a slight conflict between the annotated diagram and the chart that follows the diagram. I will contact SWD to discuss and report back regards Mike 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Gristwood Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Here as promised, a couple of shots of the adaptor board with the wires attached P1000992.JPG P1000993.JPG and one with the Zimo MX644D in place P1000991.JPG The leaflet that came with the adaptor board was in German and there seems to be a slight conflict between the annotated diagram and the chart that follows the diagram. I will contact SWD to discuss and report back regards Mike I wonder if anyone who has used the ESU adapter plate to replace the Heljan board for fitting a sound decoder could let me know which wires go where? I can see from the photo above which number pins are being used, but not which of the multiplicity of Heljan wires are connected to each one. I have tried to trace the wires back, but cant tell which are which, and what is the common return. Do I need to keep the wiring for the switch? Robin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Hi Robin, unfortunately, Heljan have only used two coloured wires, so you just have to disconnect them from the PCB - which becomes redundant, and using a 9v battery test each pair to see what lights up and attach a label for your reference. From memory, the 'common +' wire is black, so that becomes the blue wire in the photos above = pin 15. Pin 7 white wire, is the rear light Pin 8 yellow wire, is the front light Pins 9 & 10 mauve wires, are for the speaker Pin 13 green wire, is the internal light Pin 14 mauve wire, is the cab light Pin 15 blue wire, is the common return Pin 17 orange wire, is the + terminal on the motor Pin 18 grey wire, is the - terminal on the motor Pin 20 red wire, is the + terminal from the track Pin 21 black wire, is the - terminal from the track There is no need to use the supplied switch as the on/off function is controlled by the decoder. You will have to lengthen some already fitted wires as the adaptor board is 'single ended' I hope that this is of help, come back if you have any further queries. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted February 28, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 28, 2018 There is a thread running on the G0G forum about the continuing gear cracking problems on Heljan G0 locos and the lack of any corrective redesign, material change or spares availability for these. I'm not personally affected as all I have is an AC Cars railbus, but neither would I buy one until it's resolved. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airport2010 Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 The running session last night was very successful and the model was well received by the other members, the main comment being - bring on the DMUs IMG_20180118_200646.jpg W55991 leaving the Intentio service shed on the Wirral O Gauge Group's 'under construction' layout Moss End MPD Here as promised, a couple of shots of the adaptor board with the wires attached P1000992.JPG P1000993.JPG and one with the Zimo MX644D in place P1000991.JPG The leaflet that came with the adaptor board was in German and there seems to be a slight conflict between the annotated diagram and the chart that follows the diagram. I will contact SWD to discuss and report back regards Mike Hi Mike From whom did you purchase the Zimo decoder and ESU adaptor plate? South West Digital can help with the plate but they’re not Zimo stockists. Rather get both items from one supplier. Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb4141 Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Hi, Does anyone know whether these DMU’s are still going ahead? There seems no mention of these in Heljan’s announcement on Saturday and it has been reported there was no mention or presence of these on their stand? Have these quietly been dropped? (really hope not!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Dropping the bubble car would be a smart move but the others should continue. Heljan need to speed up the process as how long will it be before Dapol’s 121 morph into a 116 / 117 ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted September 4, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 4, 2018 Dropping the bubble car would be a smart move but the others should continue. Heljan need to speed up the process as how long will it be before Dapol’s 121 morph into a 116 / 117 ?? Well thinking about it and looking at the Dapol issues so far I for one would be happy to cancel my Heljan pre-order and wait for the Dapol 116/7.........it most likely wouldn't be released much after the proposed Heljan release date (when ever that mystical moment may be). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb4141 Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Dropping the bubble car would be a smart move but the others should continue. Heljan need to speed up the process as how long will it be before Dapol’s 121 morph into a 116 / 117 ?? It would definitely make sense for Heljan to drop their proposed 121. The Dapol version looks excellent and they have nailed the look of the prototype, ( in my personal view,) perfectly. When you can buy a ready to run sound-fitted Dapol one for (possibly) less than a standard Heljan DC version, there’s no contest. It surely can’t be commercially viable for Heljan to proceed with the 121. I do agree that they should still proceed with the class 120 ( surely also viable to produce in 00 as well) and the Class 117. I get the impression that Heljan are playing a bit of ‘Cat & Mouse’ it’s Dapol and are waiting to see if they do develop the 121 & 122 into a 116/117/118, before they commit to tooling up anything. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted September 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 5, 2019 (edited) I’ve not seen it mentioned anywhere but on Heljan’s facebook page there is a photo of the 117, but the center car is a 121 with two cabs. Was there any news on this at Telford? Edit to add I've subsequently heard these are test samples they had on display to show progress - its a way down the queue though. Edited September 5, 2019 by Hal Nail 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmudriver Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) HI all. It's over 12 months since the last post on this thread but I've just bought a reduced price 128 and could do with a bit of advice, please. I hope the new post pops up somewhere!! I've run the unit in on my rolling road, but the red marker lights do not operate - at either end. The white ones do with no problem. I've got the body off and can't see anything obvious. I am loathe to send it back for what could be a simple fault so I thought I'd ask for some advice first. 1. Am I correct in assuming that the red marker lights should work on DC? 2. I have a Zimo 21 pin MX644 chip to fit but I don't want to fit it until the red markers are working. BUT - are they likely to work if I fit the chip to the unit? Personally, I doubt it but others may have different knowledge. 3. Here are a couple of pics of the wiring. In the first you can see a red wire at the bottom right that has been cut. However, that looks deliberate and reading the thread above, it seems that CN1 is for the headcode lights but this unit does not have the headcodes, just markers. There is nothing obviously loose or broken otherwise. The second pic shows the whole of the wiring on the unit. Again, I can't see anything wrong but others may know what to look for. With thanks in advance for any comments. Rod Edited October 10, 2019 by Dmudriver Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmudriver Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 Just an update to the previous post. It seems there are no red lights fitted to the model. I found a comment on a Facebook page about a Post Office liveried version saying "no red markers". Checked with Howes who said there weren't any fitted to the model - this after Rails of Sheffield had checked the replacement they'd put aside for me - also no reds!! So I'm keeping the one I've got - I've run it in, anyway/ Also ordered a plug for the speaker from Howes. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 I've just received one of the 128's, in green with yellow gangway door, from Rails, as an offer from the Peterborough Show. It contains a little booklet, but I note there are no separate detail parts, as with their other diesels. Perhaps someone could tell me if this is correct, or not? Many thanks, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
31130 Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 On 10/10/2019 at 20:49, Dmudriver said: Just an update to the previous post. It seems there are no red lights fitted to the model. I found a comment on a Facebook page about a Post Office liveried version saying "no red markers". Checked with Howes who said there weren't any fitted to the model - this after Rails of Sheffield had checked the replacement they'd put aside for me - also no reds!! So I'm keeping the one I've got - I've run it in, anyway/ Also ordered a plug for the speaker from Howes. Rod Just seen this otherwise I’d have replied sooner! I rather disappointedly found the same thing, no tail lights in the 7mm version yet they managed to squeeze both front marker and tail lights into the 4mm one... Anyway, I wanted tails in there as well but without having to do lots of making up of new light units. I solved it by fitting Some dual red/white DCC concepts LEDs glued into the same loactaion as the original ones. Although they are effectively 2 LEDs glued back to back, the rearmost LED reflects plenty of light back onto the light lens. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmudriver Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 On 20/12/2019 at 00:12, 31130 said: Just seen this otherwise I’d have replied sooner! I rather disappointedly found the same thing, no tail lights in the 7mm version yet they managed to squeeze both front marker and tail lights into the 4mm one... Anyway, I wanted tails in there as well but without having to do lots of making up of new light units. I solved it by fitting Some dual red/white DCC concepts LEDs glued into the same loactaion as the original ones. Although they are effectively 2 LEDs glued back to back, the rearmost LED reflects plenty of light back onto the light lens. Hi 31130. Are these the ones you used? https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/led-nanolight-wresistors-6x-2-colour-protowhitered/ If so, how did you wire them up? Did you take the original ones off, or just glue these on top? I've not looked at the set-up closely yet. And can they be switched off separately - so that the unit can be used multi-ed up without showing marker lights in the middle of the unit? If not, I'll have to work out how to do it. Thanks for the comment - I was thinking of larger LEDs and using fibre optics. This method sounds much better!! Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedman Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Pity there is no 117 in Scotrail branded Regional Railways. Ltd Edition anyone? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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