Soldering mazak

[burgundy]

Does anyone have any experience of soldering mazak please? I have been dismembering an old Mantua "General" and there are some bits that I shall want to stick back on. I have been experimenting on some of the scrap pieces that I removed from the tender and have found it impossible to produce a reliable soldered joint. I have been using C&L grey solder and Powerflow flux, but the problem seems to be that the mazak does not get properly tinned, even when it is warmed up with a blowtorch. The joints therefore fail along the surface of the metal.  

Or should I resort to Plan B and fall back on epoxy resin?

Grateful for any suggestions.

Best wishes

Eric  

[Dagworth]

I've had some success soldering to Hornby pantograph bases which are a mazac casting. Just normal electrical solder and an iron, no extra flux or extra heat. Five years later the joint is still solid

 

Andi

[asmay2002]

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/8356-soldering-die-cast-metal/

[micknich2003]

Yes, it can be done, it has been covered on here, search for Soldering Diecast Metal.

[bertiedog]

It needs nothing special, just a lot of heat, and an "aggressive" flux like Bakers fluid. It is not so much the heat of the iron but the heat capacity must be up to supplying the heat needed.

The surfaces must be cleaned and filed a bit to provide new metal to grip the solder. Modern tin solder seems the best option, although tin/lead works, and will not cause mazak rot. Tin the parts before making the join, they must be tinned perfectly, no holes or marks, then put together and re-heat, with a further drop of flux.

Paste fluxes do not work with Mazak, the surface has got to be cleaned by the action of hot acid.

Once soldered the joint should remain good. But wash any acid off with weak washing soda or sodium bicarbonate.

 

Stephen.