davec.hh Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Jon, In amongst my drawing equipment I have some translucent tracing paper, is that the type of thing that might be suitable? Best regards DaveC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 It may well be! I'll have to check out some greaseproof paper from Wifey's baking drawer as well.Other ideas are clear styrene sheet, clouded by mucho scrubbing with a fibreglass pen or a quick spray with white primer. I also have some backing sheet from a sheet of letraset (remember letraset....?). The cover sheet for pressfix transfers might work too. All suggestions will be trialled... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Jon If you airbrush satin varnish onto clear that will look like frosted glass or semi transparent material. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 This is what you need: http://www.grafixplastics.com/drafting_film.asp Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethevans1986 Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Looks good John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) Jon If you airbrush satin varnish onto clear that will look like frosted glass or semi transparent material. Pete This is what you need: http://www.grafixpla...afting_film.asp Cheers chaps! Now I've done the lamp case and lamp (warm white LED) I'll be able to test which is best. I'll try different resistors on the LED until I get the right brightness. In stock are 475ohm 1000ohm,and 1500 ohm. I've also flattened the front face of the LED with a file to change the spread of light a bit (and to get it in the lamp case easier!) The lamp case was made from a piece of square tube and a brass washer beaten into a dish shape and soldered on. This was then soldered to a tube and aligned with the back of the banner and soldered up. Very strong! The LED has had its neg tag soldered to the inside of the lamp case and the poz was attached to a piece of fine wire which was then fed down through the main stem. I'll make a plastic detachable lid for the lamp case so I can get in if need be. Oh and this is the signal that the banner repeater will be ..repeating; a scratchbuilt ex LMS restricted width/height stop signal. More soon Edited May 30, 2015 by Jon Fitness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted August 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2011 Very nice John. I assume you know Chester (No.6) had 2 on the up fast / slow at Windmill tunnels - often visible in photos in books. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Very nice John. I assume you know Chester (No.6) had 2 on the up fast / slow at Windmill tunnels - often visible in photos in books. Theres still 2 there on the down slow and fasts for CR113 and CR115. Theres also 2 in the station for CR93 and CR95. I think they are all the older pattern still and not LED ones. (unless they've sneaked a couple in when I wasn't looking like they did to the signal heads on the Wrexham line!) JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 A couple of pictures of one of those odd looking signals.. Unfortunately some joker has changed the enamel arm to something totally inappropriate... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted August 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2011 Theres still 2 there on the down slow and fasts for CR113 and CR115. Theres also 2 in the station for CR93 and CR95. I think they are all the older pattern still and not LED ones. (unless they've sneaked a couple in when I wasn't looking like they did to the signal heads on the Wrexham line!) JF CR113 and 115 are BR installed repeaters, put in for the PSB stageworks/area, nothing there pre Chester and it's stageworks (post Crane Street abolition of course), No.6 did the routing and it was 4 tracks over the Viaduct. The ones at Windmill were of the type you are modelling, long gone as the signals they repeated (LNWR tunnel signals) were replaced by colour lights back in ... late 1960s iirc. hth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 A couple of pictures of one of those odd looking signals.. Unfortunately some joker has changed the enamel arm to something totally inappropriate... Those GW blades get everywhere ........Would that mean the arm now goes the wrong way!!! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Webbo Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Jon As a new member of RMweb I would like to congratulate you on a fantastic step by step guide to scratchbuilding signals, most informative and the photos help to show how its done properly. If you don't mind I would like to print this off and keep it at my workbench as a workbench manual. As and when I work out how to do it I will pass on a couple of photos taken at Barnetby, one is a ground shunt signal painted black with a yellow stripe across the centre, the other is a standard tubular post. Keep up the good work. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 CR113 and 115 are BR installed repeaters, put in for the PSB stageworks/area, nothing there pre Chester and it's stageworks (post Crane Street abolition of course), No.6 did the routing and it was 4 tracks over the Viaduct. The ones at Windmill were of the type you are modelling, long gone as the signals they repeated (LNWR tunnel signals) were replaced by colour lights back in ... late 1960s iirc. hth Ah yes! Went through a few local books and I see the ones you are talking about now. Am I right in saying the only true pre PSB signals are 81 and 83 on the gantry and under the canopy on plat 3 and down&up main? Was watching a video of a Jubilee class (taken from the old footbridge at the Crewe end) drifting down what is now plat 3 and I could see the 2 signals glowing in the gloom. Cheers JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Jon As a new member of RMweb I would like to congratulate you on a fantastic step by step guide to scratchbuilding signals, most informative and the photos help to show how its done properly. If you don't mind I would like to print this off and keep it at my workbench as a workbench manual. As and when I work out how to do it I will pass on a couple of photos taken at Barnetby, one is a ground shunt signal painted black with a yellow stripe across the centre, the other is a standard tubular post. Keep up the good work. Alan Cheers Alan, Looking forward to seeing your signals JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 (edited) Near enough finished the banner repeater now.After the fiasco at the layout the other night, trying to re site the gantry and connect all the servos up, I've decided to try to attach the servos directly to the signals where possible.This one is stuck on with heavy duty double-sided trim tape! It's been tested and works fine. Jon,In amongst my drawing equipment I have some translucent tracing paper, is that the type of thing that might be suitable?Best regardsDaveC With all the gubbins now attached, I had a play with various translucent materials for the back glass. The best turned out to be some backing from the letraset sheet and luckily I have a leather punch that is exactly the right diameter so a circle was duly bashed out and this is the resulting light.Looks pretty much ok to me and I reckon I can get both the front and rear glasses in without disturbing the frame round the front face so this will be soldered up pre- glazing and sprayed up tomorrow.More soonJF Edited May 30, 2015 by Jon Fitness 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Webbo Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Hi Jon, many thanks for the info, hope this works, here are the photo's. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 One of my banners in action.. Can you do a movie of you rather superb model? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 One of my banners in action.. Can you do a movie of you rather superb model? Thanks for that! I'll try and and put one on when it's installed on the layout. Its all finished but I can't move it to fot it at the moment as the paint's still wet! JF. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Superb stuff as always Jon. look forward to seeing some photos on the layout John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) Finished the banner and it's ready for installation now.The rear screen was carefully glued in with PVA. The front screen was bashed gently eased into position and fortunately didn't appear to need any glue (no idea how I'd either glue it in or get it back out if I need to!)I've tested it on the servo and it works but as it will be connected to a different driver board when installed on the layout, anything other than basic testing wasn't needed.I'll set the travel and operation speed once it's installed using LNERGE's helpful video clip as a guide!Sorry about the quality of pics.. poor light in the workplace!!JF Edited June 9, 2014 by Jon Fitness 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davec.hh Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 The Banner is looking very good. You had some interesting suggestions, the backing from Letraset looks to give a really good impression of the translucent glass. I too think the series on signal making is worthy of a copy being on my work bench for when I (eventually) get round to making some signals. Many thanks DaveC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Many thanks! I only do the basic stuff though! Try these links for high quality inspiration mikemegs signals and here Also look out for signal building books by both Mick Nicholson and Peter Squibb. Cheers JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethevans1986 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Looks good Jon.....nice workbench location ;-) GE Looks good Jon.....nice workbench location ;-) GE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 As requested, among the pics of the new signals installed on the layout, here's a quick vid of the banner repeater operating. The way it works is a bit wrong as it simply works on the same switch as the signal it repeats. I did consider fixing a microswitch to the servo arm on the home signal to work the banner but well....this was easier! . I'll be reviving another ex-Talacre signal for fitting shortly... More soon JF 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 superb work Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now