Dapol Class 22

[Geoff Endacott]

Details here: http://www.precisionlabels.com/l41.html .

 

Geoff Endacott

[Phil Bullock]

Ordered an all green one from Hattons last November. First chance to look at and run it, was last week -my first week back in the UK. Worked OK in one direction, but derailed in reverse, oscillating a bit before it did so. Gave it a workout on a friend's rolling road today - one end oscillating quite badly (so, it wasn't my track at fault!). No more stock at Hattons, so its going back to DCC Supplies for repair.

No problem, as I wont be back in the UK until July. I wait with baited breath....

Took comfort by buying a freshly delivered Bachmann GWR badged Dukedog from Bure Valley Railway shop.

Sounds like a stub axle failure David - happened on one of ours but fine once replaced

 

Phil

[Gwiwer]

Precision labels are fine.  So are Heljan and some other paper inserts if trimmed carefully.  Just take care with unsticking the cab assembly on your safari to the inside of the headcode glazing

[Michael Delamar]

6352 at Gloucester Horton Road  1969

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68861278@N03/12206513903/

[mikesndbs]

Hi everyone, well my Precision labels arrived and I've had a go at fitting them to my class 22.

Very fiddly job, made me feel a bit like an elephant trying to clean its bum with a bit of confetti!  

 

Anyway have attached some photos for you.

I can see from them that I still need to smooth them down a bit, but yes much better than the Dapol ones it came with.

 

Thanks for the tip 

[jsp3970]

Just had a blue 22 delivered this morning from Hattons. It is the first Dapol model I have purchased and it is a very nice model.

 

Did have a bit of a problem putting in one of the Valances, R5, but have now got it in so is looking good.

 

Not sure about the headcode labels, may order some of the Precision labels instead.

[Jenny Emily]

I have just noticed that the cab glazing on one end of mine has fallen back into the cab. I've tried to get into the cab to affect a repair, but it seems that Dapol have been determined to not allow this by using vast amounts of strong glue to hold the cab innards in place. I've done a search online and can find only complaints by others with the same issue, and not a solution. Can anyone help with how to get access to the cabs?

 

If they had used the same glue to fix the windows as is fixing the cab to the body, perhaps they wouldn'ty fall off. I'm close to breaking the bodyshell in trying to get into the cabs. Really Dapol? Was it necessary to ruin an otherwise excellent model like this?

 

EDIT:

 

A very narrow boxcutter blade worked in from the front and eased backwards from each side has eventually freed it. Not for the faint of heart - I nearly ended up stabbing myself twice, and the inside of the body looks a mess. However it hasn't damaged the outside, which is more important. A rubber cement would be a better way to have fixed the cab innards in, so at least they could be realistically removed. I may try refixing with PVA.

Edited February 17, 2014 by Jenny Emily

[mikesndbs]

Well done on getting it done, I was going to suggest a match stick with a bit of blue tack on one end, use to stick to fish the glazing out and then hold it while applying glue to to the edges.

If you see what I mean?

LOL

[tender]

I have just noticed that the cab glazing on one end of mine has fallen back into the cab. I've tried to get into the cab to affect a repair, but it seems that Dapol have been determined to not allow this by using vast amounts of strong glue to hold the cab innards in place. I've done a search online and can find only complaints by others with the same issue, and not a solution. Can anyone help with how to get access to the cabs?

 

If they had used the same glue to fix the windows as is fixing the cab to the body, perhaps they wouldn'ty fall off. I'm close to breaking the bodyshell in trying to get into the cabs. Really Dapol? Was it necessary to ruin an otherwise excellent model like this?

 

EDIT:

 

A very narrow boxcutter blade worked in from the front and eased backwards from each side has eventually freed it. Not for the faint of heart - I nearly ended up stabbing myself twice, and the inside of the body looks a mess. However it hasn't damaged the outside, which is more important. A rubber cement would be a better way to have fixed the cab innards in, so at least they could be realistically removed. I may try refixing with PVA.

I had the same problem with one of mine, it just takes a bit of conviction with a sharp blade, but like you say its not for the faint hearted. After fixing the window the cab just 'clicked' back in position without any glue so I've left it like that just in case any of the other windows decide to come adrift.

 

Ray.

[Jenny Emily]

Whilst I was half way through, my other half wandered by with a camera, so I've done some filming about how to do it. I shall post a link when it's editted and uploaded.

 

It's important to get the blade at the right angle though. The glue seems to be harder than the plastic, so it could be quite easy to accidentally slice through the body shell by mistake.

[Jenny Emily]

Zoë came in when I was half way through repairing the glazing on my class 22 so the resultant video is below, in case it is of some help to others trying to repair this little nark.

 

[stovepipe]

Another headcode example in plain green - D6336.

[/url] Rattery by chippy1966, on Flickr">http:// Rattery by chippy1966, on Flickr

[royaloak]

Nice how to video Jenny, I do like the unedited bit at the end re knats wee wee, my 10 year old is still laughing!

Edited February 25, 2014 by royaloak

[Strathyre]

Delivery run from NBL to the Western Region.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61731530@N02/6108524135/in/photolist-aiMMpD-g2PB5o-8b6Y1G-kw6fSs-ejHoEr-ejHnxz-ejHnUT-aqjneY-ejHpup-dkF1ST-dVgyGH-eYAQz9-eig6zc-eig5dF-eig4wp-eimPME-dVn9co-eig5pD-eig4YF-eimQ8N-eig4fi-eimNJu-eimQV3-aDuhmw-g2PB8u-iGmkGq-iGj5m7-iGiARB-gpWTL4-gpWS7n-gpX8Sw-g2RGXv-j2epUJ-bZKJtW-dRGZGg-aj9P8z-dRPrgd-dRNa8d-aDuiaY-eYpkPP-ejPa8S-b3pua8-chr2Vm-bBuc88-dRFde8-dQDcPi-dXSgr5-e9Lfxx-aC4Mhc-b1bexR-ehXkPZ

 

 

Paul

[VOYAGERBOI]

Here is my NBL Type 2 on my layout Bartonstow.

I'd just like to express my thanks for the guidance on here regarding the head code blinds.

The Precision Labels (4mm) look the business!

[MJI]

Went to the local model shop, on the way out a friend of my wife spotted our car (pale blue Discovery) as they returned to their industrial unit. So I turned around and followed them back.

 

My wife was chatting away to her friend, just around the corner from the Top Barn model shop so I popped back to have another look and came back with a green 22, this will go with my BR Toad and my green Warship.

Edited April 4, 2014 by MJI

[mikesndbs]

Hi guys, my 22 started sounding like it had sand in its gears this evening after a few days of easy running.

Slow speed it seemed to cog along!

 

Opened her up and despite the warnings of the end of the world if you remove the screws from the plate inside, I did so and found that the flexible arms going from the motor to the worm drives were bone dry! probably never been lubricated.

So some Hob-E-Lube gear grease was added to them, oil to worm and drop for motor bearing.

Also noticed two wires each side of the drive arms, both were close each end and may account for the snag sound as the bogies turn for curves. Did what I could to ease them as well.

 

Added some gear lube to the gear trains under the bogie frames as well.

Now got a smooth 22 again!

Hope this helps someone some day

[mikesndbs]

On the subject of 22s I am sure some of you will be just as interested as I am in Project 22

Its a group taking leaps and bounds towards doing a new build class 22!

You can learn more from this video.

http://youtu.be/seSPGK4FlQc

 

Just imagine being able to see a real one!

Edited June 4, 2014 by mikesndbs

[Gwiwer]

Having been delighted with my quartet of 22s to date (two blue, two green headcode SYP) I decided to invest in a fifth to include the green headcode disc SYP in the fleet.  It duly arrived today.

 

I am quite comfortable now dismantling the cab assembly to fit a crew and internal headcodes both of which will be done in due course.  The problem with D6327 - and the first real problem I have had with any of the current Dapol hydraulics - is that when placed on the track it shorted.  

 

Off came the body and I noted the blanking plate was on upside down compared with the rest of them.  In fact the entire circuit board is different and so is the internal illumination.  The guts seem to have been significantly reworked since the early releases.

 

The blanking plate wouldn't go on any other way (there's only one way a 21-pin plate can fit) and it didn't appear to be the source of the problem anyway.  Just in case I swapped plates with an earlier 22 which all came with 22-pin blanking plates on 21-pin units meaning they can be plugged in either way around.  The older one ran perfectly with the new plate and the new one still shorted .....

 

I have now checked over all the wiring and allowed for the different configuration of circuit board.  Compared with the older model the new one appears to be cross-wired from one bogie to the motor with a red where a black should be and vice versa.  I can fix that easily but not today as the soldering iron is packed away (along with the entire workbench) for my imminent trip home.  I might be able to find time later in the week otherwise it's a job for when I'm back.

 

They're still nice models.

[StuartM]

Having been delighted with my quartet of 22s to date (two blue, two green headcode SYP) I decided to invest in a fifth to include the green headcode disc SYP in the fleet.  It duly arrived today.

 

I am quite comfortable now dismantling the cab assembly to fit a crew and internal headcodes both of which will be done in due course.  The problem with D6327 - and the first real problem I have had with any of the current Dapol hydraulics - is that when placed on the track it shorted.  

 

Off came the body and I noted the blanking plate was on upside down compared with the rest of them.  In fact the entire circuit board is different and so is the internal illumination.  The guts seem to have been significantly reworked since the early releases.

 

The blanking plate wouldn't go on any other way (there's only one way a 21-pin plate can fit) and it didn't appear to be the source of the problem anyway.  Just in case I swapped plates with an earlier 22 which all came with 22-pin blanking plates on 21-pin units meaning they can be plugged in either way around.  The older one ran perfectly with the new plate and the new one still shorted .....

 

I have now checked over all the wiring and allowed for the different configuration of circuit board.  Compared with the older model the new one appears to be cross-wired from one bogie to the motor with a red where a black should be and vice versa.  I can fix that easily but not today as the soldering iron is packed away (along with the entire workbench) for my imminent trip home.  I might be able to find time later in the week otherwise it's a job for when I'm back.

 

They're still nice models.

Should you really have to fiddle about like this on something that cost you over £100?

If you bought a mobile phone or a TV, would you still take them apart and try and fix the problem, or would you return them under guarantee to the shop you bought them from?

Trouble is, all the time people fiddle and solve the problem, the manufacture remains blissfully unaware there is a problem, however if the they get umteen returns, then they become aware quickly as this starts to cost them money.

[Phil Bullock]

Our two D6320 and D6331 have generally been ok but slightly erratic picking up

 

I have fitted an ESU power pack stay alive in a Bachmann Class 40 to cure its pick-up ills - wondered if anyone had tried this on their DCC fitted Class 22?

Phil

Edited August 4, 2014 by Phil Bullock

[Gwiwer]

Should you really have to fiddle about like this on something that cost you over £100?

If you bought a mobile phone or a TV, would you still take them apart and try and fix the problem, or would you return them under guarantee to the shop you bought them from?

Trouble is, all the time people fiddle and solve the problem, the manufacture remains blissfully unaware there is a problem, however if the they get umteen returns, then they become aware quickly as this starts to cost them money.

 

My contract is with the retailer.  They have been made aware of the problem and thanked me for brining it to their attention.  I could have sent it back but from my location the costs involved are high and with no guarantee they will be covered.  

 

I am also skilled enough to understand what the problem is and how to fix it.  That is part of being a modeller as opposed to an operator.  It should take me five minutes which is a heck of a lot less time than it would take to deposit the item at the post office, complete its international paperwork and return it with a note saying blandly "This doesn't work".

[Jack Cregan]

Hi All

Just purchased one of these and am quite pleased with the looks and performance but the lights only worked for about 20 minutes.I opened it up and put a 9 volt battery directly on to the lights and they worked but do not light when power is applied to the wheels.Any clues?

Jack

[bubbles2]

Hi Jack, See my post #1373 on page 55. All sorted by DCC and been ok since. Two more Westerns purchased and no problems with them so far.

[Jack Cregan]

Hi Bubbles2

                     So I take it the blanking plate has failed.I am on dc and using gaugemaster controllers (both normal and feedback) and have had no problems with other manufacturers locos.Forgive my ignorance but who are DCC and how do I make contact?

Jack