Dapol Class 22

[luke_stevens]

And off the mark, though not seriously so, on the 52s.

 

I'd be happy if it matched the 52's / D1000's

 

Luke

[Phil Bullock]

So had a chat with the folks from Dapol at Warley yesterday

 

Great news...they are planning on making the required front end mods for the later locos!

 

They also thought they had the number right for a green no SYP loco - I wonder if D6356 is a typo and it should actually be D6336 - will email them and confirm , they did promise to check

 

Phil

[Downendian]

Good news thanks Phil.

I'll certainly be adding two more, I've already resprayed an awful blue FYE to BSYP, and was gearing up to do a GYFE, won't bother now. Great to have models from the later batch.

Also I hope to see some more spares, getting the windows out for a respray was a pig, and broke a couple. Spraying to a more realistic blue is well worth the effort though.

Neil

[Geoff Endacott]

Why are they doing D6312 as GFYE and not D6331? The latter matches their bodyshell; the former does not.

 

Geoff Endacott

[cctransuk]

Why are they doing D6312 as GFYE and not D6331? The latter matches their bodyshell; the former does not.

 

Geoff Endacott

 

'Cos it's Dapol - and if there's a right way and a wrong way, you know which way they'll go !!

 

Perhaps it's a somewhat bizarre 'house style', this aversion to fidelity to prototype?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited November 29, 2016 by cctransuk

[Phil Bullock]

Hmm but D6331 in GFYE has problems too - look at those welded patches on the nose end

 

Phil

[Phil Bullock]

But Dapol are listening - can we help them with collective knowledge from here?

 

So D6312 vs D6331 on the existing body shell with headcodes - presumably its the eyebrows on D6312 that make D6331 a better bet for a GFYE model?

 

D6327 in BSYP is a good match isn't it?

 

D6356 might have run in plain green in Scotland whilst on test but never in service I guess? D6336 on a new pattern body shell with changed front end is one of 3 that would work in this livery IIRC.

 

D6339 https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=D6339&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CclUoa3xi-7XIjgpYqPyiqgxr2rHHcEPt7iMMCLFXqVO89ZtHk5MbcKvOGb9jpYvbf4yhiZP5NkkdkBxm9Ul2H7hyyoSCSlio_1KKqDGvEflkJCpYhUX-KhIJascdwQ-3uIwR-WQkKliFRf4qEgkwIsVepU7z1hH5ZCQqWIVF_1ioSCW0eTkxtwq84EZ3JhiK8OSJiKhIJZv2Oli9t_1jIRcocgsyi2xcwqEgmGJk_1k2SR2QBHD6gLywVx5iyoSCXGb1SXYfuHLEcN_10zfL-8o9&tbo=u&gws_rd=ssl#gws_rd=ssl&imgrc=ZZjfi5FT7M7GjM%3A - how about with snowploughs????

 

ANd D6352 -

https://www.flickr.com/photos/64518788@N05/9391790358/in/photolist-fiVo4Y-9J67zJ

 

Are these the best options?

 

Phil

 

[TheSignalEngineer]

'Cos it's Dapol - and if there's a right way and a wrong way, you know which way they'll go !!

 

Perhaps it's a somewhat bizarre 'house style', this aversion to fidelity to prototype?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

It's their way of encouraging modelling. You buy it then get out the scalpel, file and plasticard to put it how it should be before a respray.

[Geoff Endacott]

But Dapol are listening - can we help them with collective knowledge from here?

 

So D6312 vs D6331 on the existing body shell with headcodes - presumably its the eyebrows on D6312 that make D6331 a better bet for a GFYE model?

 

Yes.

 

Geoff Endacott

[BrushVeteran]

But Dapol are listening - can we help them with collective knowledge from here?

 

So D6312 vs D6331 on the existing body shell with headcodes - presumably its the eyebrows on D6312 that make D6331 a better bet for a GFYE model?

 

D6327 in BSYP is a good match isn't it?

 

D6356 might have run in plain green in Scotland whilst on test but never in service I guess? D6336 on a new pattern body shell with changed front end is one of 3 that would work in this livery IIRC.

 

D6339 https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=D6339&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CclUoa3xi-7XIjgpYqPyiqgxr2rHHcEPt7iMMCLFXqVO89ZtHk5MbcKvOGb9jpYvbf4yhiZP5NkkdkBxm9Ul2H7hyyoSCSlio_1KKqDGvEflkJCpYhUX-KhIJascdwQ-3uIwR-WQkKliFRf4qEgkwIsVepU7z1hH5ZCQqWIVF_1ioSCW0eTkxtwq84EZ3JhiK8OSJiKhIJZv2Oli9t_1jIRcocgsyi2xcwqEgmGJk_1k2SR2QBHD6gLywVx5iyoSCXGb1SXYfuHLEcN_10zfL-8o9&tbo=u&gws_rd=ssl#gws_rd=ssl&imgrc=ZZjfi5FT7M7GjM%3A - how about with snowploughs????

 

ANd D6352 -

https://www.flickr.com/photos/64518788@N05/9391790358/in/photolist-fiVo4Y-9J67zJ

 

Are these the best options?

 

Phil

 

 

They'll need to replicate the scabby damage D6327 carried for its final days!  Honestly I do hope they make a good job of this version as I had purchased an extra green one to respray.

[Phil Bullock]

They'll need to replicate the scabby damage D6327 carried for its final days!  Honestly I do hope they make a good job of this version as I had purchased an extra green one to respray.

 

Absolutely! Was decidedly battered as your super photos show. I cant bring myself to actually batter or score models to represent prototypical damage such as the scars carried by D847 though....

 

If these proceed then its renumbering to D6336 and D6342 - both in blue - for us as both made it to Worcester. D6327 would be overkill but never say never....saw her run LE through Spetchley , am guessing she had been up to Bromsgrove to participate in the remodelling there in the late 60s.

 

Phil

[andy stroud]

I can't get over how quickly these were all cut up. A list of cutting dates (Diesel & Electric Disposal by Ashley Butlin) shows the last one D6323 gone in August 1972, yet at the begining of that year, 25 of them still existed.

[Phil Bullock]

I can't get over how quickly these were all cut up. A list of cutting dates (Diesel & Electric Disposal by Ashley Butlin) shows the last one D6323 gone in August 1972, yet at the begining of that year, 25 of them still existed.

 

Guilt after chopping D6319 when they should not have done?

 

Phil

 

[geoffwba]

I am trying to remove the bogie frame on my Dapol Class 2 so I can inspect and lubricate the gears. According to Dapol it should just unclip but I can't budge it and am scared of using too much force in case I break something. Does anyone have any tips?

Edited December 29, 2016 by geoffwba

[csiedmo]

I am trying to remove the bogie frame on my Dapol Class 2 so I can inspect and lubricate the gears. According to Dapol it should just unclip but I can't budge it and am scared of using too much force in case I break something. Does anyone have any tips?

You don't state the gauge of your loco but I assume they're all built the same way. Mine are N gauge and are attached with clips at the top of the sides of the bogie frame. The frames aren't flexible as such so it's not really a question of squeezing the frame sides, but holding the frame by its sides parallel with the chassis and pulling gently but firmly seems to do the trick for mine.

Edited January 2, 2017 by csiedmo

[geoffwba]

Thanks- I've figured it out now (my loco is 00 gauge by the way). I thought it was just the plastic bogie frame rectangular cover that comes off but it is actually the whole bogie frame that is removed and I managed to do it without too much difficulty in the end. It's a pity that the instructions on Dapol's sheet and elsewhere in this forum aren't a bit clearer.

[leopardml2341]

Thanks- I've figured it out now (my loco is 00 gauge by the way). I thought it was just the plastic bogie frame rectangular cover that comes off but it is actually the whole bogie frame that is removed and I managed to do it without too much difficulty in the end. It's a pity that the instructions on Dapol's sheet and elsewhere in this forum aren't a bit clearer.

Perhaps you could show us how you did it?

 

That addresses, for others, both of the issues you note.

[geoffwba]

Perhaps you could show us how you did it?

 

That addresses, for others, both of the issues you note.

It's a little difficult to explain- but here goes:

 

At each end of the bogie frame cover there are two small plastic tabs in the rectangular cut-out. These need to be pressed inwards and slightly downwards very firmly using a suitable flat bladed screwdriver.  Make sure the loco is held securely. You will fund that the tabs will move inwards, but try not to use too much force as you risk damage. At the same time lift the whole bogie frame upwards and it should release . Do each end of the bogie frame one at a time

 

Reassembly is just a matter of positioning the bogie frame and pushing it until it clips into place.     

 

A little trial and error worked for me. The main thing is to ensure the loco is held securely in some sort of cradle whilst you are performing this operation.

[Jack Cregan]

It's a little difficult to explain- but here goes:

 

At each end of the bogie frame cover there are two small plastic tabs in the rectangular cut-out. These need to be pressed inwards and slightly downwards very firmly using a suitable flat bladed screwdriver.  Make sure the loco is held securely. You will fund that the tabs will move inwards, but try not to use too much force as you risk damage. At the same time lift the whole bogie frame upwards and it should release . Do each end of the bogie frame one at a time

 

Reassembly is just a matter of positioning the bogie frame and pushing it until it clips into place.     

 

A little trial and error worked for me. The main thing is to ensure the loco is held securely in some sort of cradle whilst you are performing this operation.

Thanks for the very good instructions. I had a dodgy pick up and couldn't figure out how to remove the keeper plate thinking it came away separately.Thanks again. Jack

[Phil Bullock]

Glad this topic has resurfaced ... was about to resurrect it myself!

 

We have had a Dapol 22 as D6331 for a few years but Jimbo not entirely happy with it - see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06TPwf8px1k&t=474s 10 mins on, our weathering probably corresponds to how she looked after working down to Exeter in May 71 and catching fire en route - and never working again

 

The acquisition of another model has prompted us to redo it - but a few questions emerge.

 

See https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=sJ%2fP2ukw&id=228D935FF4C8081E8AB486B30D8643411626E733&thid=OIP.sJ_P2ukwZ6kth-0P6VCHpAEsC6&q=D6331&simid=608034802123606281&selectedIndex=9&ajaxhist=0

 

So - what are those riveted patches about? Seem to be on this end of the loco only. We'll be looking at replicating those with Archer rivet transfers over a transfer patch. And what are the fittings at the bottom outer corners of the nose end - outboard of the lamp brackets?? They are absent from the Dapol model....

 

Cheers

 

Phil

Edited May 13, 2017 by Phil Bullock

[csiedmo]

Glad this topic has resurfaced ... was about to resurrect it myself!

 

We have had a Dapol 22 as D6331 for a few years but Jimbo not entirely happy with it - see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06TPwf8px1k&t=474s 10 mins on, our weathering probably corresponds to how she looked after working down to Exeter in May 71 and catching fire en route - and never working again

 

The acquisition of another model has prompted us to redo it - but a few questions emerge.

 

See https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=sJ%2fP2ukw&id=228D935FF4C8081E8AB486B30D8643411626E733&thid=OIP.sJ_P2ukwZ6kth-0P6VCHpAEsC6&q=D6331&simid=608034802123606281&selectedIndex=9&ajaxhist=0

 

So - what are those riveted patches about? Seem to be on this end of the loco only. We'll be looking at replicating those with Archer rivet transfers over a transfer patch. And what are the fittings at the bottom outer corners of the nose end - outboard of the lamp brackets?? They are absent from the Dapol model....

 

Cheers

 

Phil

 

 

Hello Phil,

 

I've been having a look through my photos and think I can have a reasonable stab at answering your questions, although I don't know for sure.

 

The riveted patches: If you compare the position of the horizontal line of rivets with any other member of the class, it is where there a seam all the way around the loco where presumably the bodywork joins the chassis.

So my assumption is that someone decided to attach the bodywork to the chassis and to the end doors with rivets on this occasion.

 

The corner fittings: These are in the same position where the headcode discs used to be. If you can find the colour photo of D6319 inside Swindon post 1971 overhaul it shows the shape very clearly. There is a vertical element which seems to be where the hinge for the disc was (maybe it is that same hinge?) and a oval element to the inside of that, which covers the hole where the disc market light used to be.

 

Hope that makes sense!

Best wishes,

Ed

[Phil Bullock]

Hello Phil,

 

I've been having a look through my photos and think I can have a reasonable stab at answering your questions, although I don't know for sure.

 

The riveted patches: If you compare the position of the horizontal line of rivets with any other member of the class, it is where there a seam all the way around the loco where presumably the bodywork joins the chassis.

So my assumption is that someone decided to attach the bodywork to the chassis and to the end doors with rivets on this occasion.

 

The corner fittings: These are in the same position where the headcode discs used to be. If you can find the colour photo of D6319 inside Swindon post 1971 overhaul it shows the shape very clearly. There is a vertical element which seems to be where the hinge for the disc was (maybe it is that same hinge?) and a oval element to the inside of that, which covers the hole where the disc market light used to be.

 

Hope that makes sense!

Best wishes,

Ed

 

 

Hi Ed

 

Many thanks for your thoughtful reply!

 

Lets deal with the corner fittings first

 

Here she is as built in plain green at Exeter

 

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/01/9b/85/019b859fe9e364248c44f623e87a7674.jpg

 

Look at where the lamp brackets are in the lower outer corners relative to the discs - I think you are right, those corner fittings were the disc mounting brackets - and they are missing from all the locos that entered traffic with headcode boxes as built too!

 

Compare that to

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/68861278@N03/8450532412

 

in green SYP at Gloucester

 

The lamp brackets have moved inboard of the fittings, there are now handrails above the fittings and the oval vent grilles have been plated over. Also ...the nose end doors have been replaced with a bifold arrangement, which of course means that all traces of the disc fittings that were mounted on the original pair of doors have gone...except that the catch that held the top disc is still there top left above the doors on this loco....

 

Finally here she is in GFYE back at Exeter - she was working down from Bristol towing a couple of classmates after the class finished at Bristol (and therefore Gloucester) in May 71 when she caught fire - don't think she never worked again, see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64183-the-demise-of-d6331/

 

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/11977744364_f4fb45fb56_z.jpg

 

You are right in that the patches align with the crease along the body side although IIRC the cabs were an ALUPAK fabrication, not steel like the rest of the body but cant find a picture though to determine where the lower line of those came relative to the rivet line. So unsure on that one, particularly as rivets extend up corner of cab....

 

So one part of the conundrum definitely proven!

 

Cheers Ed

 

Phil

[csiedmo]

Hello Phil,

 

If you look closely at the second photo that you posted in your reply showing 6331 from "the other end" you can see that the line of the bottom of the bodywork continues round across the nose at the same level until it reaches the nose end doors. This was the source of my conjecture about riveting the body to the chassis.

 

However, scrap that idea! I hadn't noticed in my photos (as is clear on your third photo) the rivets going up the side. That makes it look more like they are actual patches of new bodywork. I can't think where that might be necessary in symmetry? Could she have been fitted with a pair of ultra low head code boxes at some point? Or somebody made a mistake and cut the head code appertures in the wrong place during the conversion?

 

For your info, all the photos I have of 6331 in GSYP show that end of the loco and the rivets are there in all of them. We may never know!

 

I look forward to seeing your model riveted 6331

 

Cheers

Ed

[Phil Bullock]

Cheers Ed

 

That's another problem with D6331 - all the photos seem to be one end!

 

And your suggestion of mis-aligned headcode boxes had crossed my mind too - the patches do align with the width of the boxes.....

 

So the jury is out on how to do the patches - with those rivets - we will be looking at the Archer products ....or maybe a chat with Steve at Railtech.....Hmmmmmm

 

Kind regards

 

Phil

[Geoff Endacott]

https://www.Dapol.co.uk/index.php?route=blog%2Fpost&post_id=49#.WWYlA1EiFow.facebook

 

Geoff Endacott