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Dapol Class 22


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What size labels did you use ?

 

I understand that there different sizes printed for 00 models.

 

I note you fixed the head codes externally, Is it not possible to fit them internally?
 

Many thanks

 

Terry 

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Hi Terry,

 

I can't remember off-hand what size the labels were. It is possible to fit the headcodes internally, but the thickness of the plastic glazing means you could not use the full-height characters. I did add some thin clear glazing cut to fit the aperture, on top of the newly added characters.

I did fit internal headcodes to my Dapol Western diesel using Heljan figures, but the results weren't entirely satisfactory to me. The class 22 effect is better, I think, but not perfect by any means.


45637591915_33bb49eb83_k.jpg
P_20190101_173500_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr
 

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  • 4 weeks later...
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On 13/02/2020 at 14:59, ELTEL said:

Yes I see what you mean on the Class 52 with the thick plastic lense.

 

I take it you used Precision Labels which are either 3.5 or 4mm figures 

 

I will have to have think.

 

Terry 

 

 

Internal headcodes with the thinnest possible glazing will always look the biz.... and train crew help too as @Enterprisingwestern once pointed out to us!

CLass 52 1046.JPG

Class 52 1048.JPG

Edited by Phil Bullock
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So back on topic ....

 

I mentioned back up the thread that we were looking at creating D6336 and D6342 from the later batch

 

D6336 first - heres progress to date, am happy that the basic furniture is now OK.. Headcode boxes and all existing furniture removed - all detail sanded down. New boxes sited lower are extreme etchings Class 37 filed down to make the frames thinner and mounted on microstrip. New doors fabricated from plasticard. Time to move on to other furniture....

 

 

13C2D3CB-1FB0-4462-BD18-33DEFAF9C8E0.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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7 hours ago, 96701 said:

It looks to me that the loco is resting on a sleeper.


Psst! Better not tell Phil B that the sleeper is just a tad overscale. We don't want to put him off the excellent modelling job he's doing on the 22. :jester:

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No sleeping here!

 

Getting to the point where the first end is finished.... thought I'd show you without paint as you can see better whats been done...

 

Lamp irons have tested my sanity.....!!!!

 

just door and headcode box hinges to add once styrene rod arrives

 

 

4B4D258A-1A7F-4224-896A-021C4181E0F6.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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In case anyone wants to follow heres a blow by blow account....

 

First - before doing anything else - get what you need - including pictures of your chosen loco.

.

Order

 

Class 40 split box etches from Extreme Etchings - EEDP40-18.

 

Class 21/22/29 nose end detail pack .... A1 models on Ebay

 

0.31mm ns wire

 

Silver Tay lamp irons on EBay

 

Brass tube, sheet and plasticard sheet and strip.

 

Whilst you are waiting for those remove existing hand rails and lamp irons. It’s the headcode boxes that are the main work

 

Pilot drill a hole through the moulded circular top vents either side of the doors just below the driver/second man front windows. These together with the head/tail lamp holes will serve to give you location reference points later.

 

Then carefully carve away the head code box surrounds flush with the surface - and all other raised details on the nose end. Leave the outline of the headcode boxes visible. Take a small flat file - handily the most common size is exactly the width of the headcode box aperture - and extend the aperture down 1mm to the lower limits of the existing box you have just removed - the outline will still be visible.

 

Once you are happy with this then clean off all moulded nose end detail and fill existing hand rail and lamp iron holes with squadron putty. Rub down to a smooth surface - the nose doors are recessed, leave them visible as a template for the new doors you are going to make.

 

First job is to sort the headcode boxes. The etches are thin so need to be soldered on to brass sheet....0.5mm is about right. Drill centre of aperture and file out to open up box to internal edge of etching box. The frames are too heavy so file down width from outside too ensuring final results are square and consistent. Sweat on a length of 0.31mm ns wire along the top edge of the box to represent the hinge. Then mount boxes in place on model aligning Internal lower edge of box with internal edge of aperture. Superglue good for this but use gel not thin stuff. Ensure boxes are square and height is right relative to reference points and lateral orientation is correct relative to doors and edge of nose.

 

The original 

 

 

Edited by Phil Bullock
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  • 7 months later...

I have a problem with my Class 22 loco with slightly jerky movement setting off and at low speed which disappears at moderate speed. It would appear to be like a mild case of motor cogging.

 

The loco was bought when it was a new release and never turned a wheel until now.

 

I've just re-wheeled it with P4 wheels and thought that it might have been something to do with that. I used CK's method as described in his Engine Wood blog except I used a set of brass wheels with fly-cut brass spokes so shorting to the axles wasn't needed.

 

20210213_175905.jpg.e1e29355706abeb3419e39a9992070a0.jpg  20210216_112405a.jpg.6f36ab8a5d503f5f014e2187fb156a7d.jpg  

 

Another strange indication is that when setting off and at low speed the white LEDs, front and rear, start a rapid flickering which disappears as speed increases and it then runs smoothly with the lights steady. Could this be anything to do with all the DCC circuitry on top or is this a known problem? DCC will not be fitted.

 

Any advice will be gratefully received.

 

Thanks

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I thought I'd just 'bump' this topic, partly because I am also curious as to why John's loco is behaving as he describes.

 

On a (presumably) unrelated note, though, I also have a question about the motors in these Class 22s.

 

Are the Dapol Class 22s fitted with coreless motors or ordinary motors, please?

 

Many thanks.

 

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So far none of my seven 22s has given any cause for concern and they certainly don't behave in the manner commented on above.  One or two sound a little coggy as do a couple of their stable-mate Westerns but the running is fine.  It seems to be a factor of Dapol's production.  If I were pressed I would say one has a very slight wobble to its gait.  I could put that down to back-to-backs or a tiny defect in the wheel-set but I haven't investigated either because it is of no consequence to me and if I hadn't looked really closely I wouldn't have spotted it.  

 

Are they coreless?  I thought they were conventional and that DJ introduced coreless motors on the Beattie well-tanks which were under his own name co-marketed with the commissioning retailer.  But I'm always happy to sit corrected when required.  

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  • 4 months later...

This may seem a draft question (and most likely is) but, what do you folks think about the possibility of another run of the 4mm 22's in the future?

 

There's a fair few about on the 2nd hand market but they're looking far too pricey for old toys to me.

 

Cheers

 

Edited by Tim Dubya
should drink herbal tea not gin
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1 hour ago, Tim Dubya said:

This may seem a draft question (and most likely is) but, what do you folks think about the possibility of another run of the 4mm 22's in the future?

 

There's a fair few about on the 2nd hand market but they're looking far too pricey for old toys to me.

 

Cheers

 


Always worth watching what DCC supplies are selling as imperfects Tim

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