Scratch-built card and styrene structures (based on real buildings around London Bridge)

[acg5324]

Are you  basing this in NSE times or later?

[grahame]

I'm trying to be a bit flexible and open. And possibly being too vague and wanting my cake and eat it. I'll probably settle for late 70s to early 90s which is still over stretching things and will end up with some historical anomalies.

 

 

[grahame]

Gosh, it's over a month since I last posted on this thread. How time flies in lockdown.

 

I've been thinking though and planning (at least in my mind) the Holborn photo diorama I'd like to make as mentioned on page 87. The buildings along each side will need to be removeable and able to be wheeled in to position so I can photograph from both sides with the opposite building becoming the backdrop. I'm not planning on including any points but haven't yet decided on the track - I've some BF fiNetraX code 40 kit stuff which I'd prefer to use but then I'm not sure how I'd represent the third/conductor rail. With Peco code 55, loose code 40 is a good solution but might be too high alongside code 40 running rail. 

 

I've made a start on the 'baseboard' which will be made from lightweight foam board. Sizewise it will be long enough to at least accommodate a four car emu set but compact enough to be easily portable and storable. There needs to be two levels, for the ramp up from Snow Hill tunnel so hopefully the two horizontal surfaces will provide sufficient rigidity. And I've started on the separation supports:

 

 

 

 

[eldavo]

Would have thought code 40 flat bottom weathered a darker colour would look ok as a 3rd rail next to code 40 running rails. The fact that it isn't lighter real section would be hardly noticeably IMHO. The 2mm association shop does code 40 rail.

 

Cheers

Dave

 

[grahame]

Maybe, although I found that on previous layouts, if the conductor rail code was the same as the running rail, when it was mounted on a representation of a pot it would then often foul the axle-boxes and catch on the underside details of stock because clearances in N are so small. To avoid you needed to mount it directly on the sleepers so it isn't higher than the running rail top and I was rather hoping to represent the pots and raised nature of the conductor rail. Code 40 third rail with code 55 running rail allows that, but then Peco code 55 is rather chunky and with underscale sleeper sizes and spacing.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2021 by grahame

[Ian Morgan]

On our model of Bognor Regis, we used some square section brass rod to represent the third rail, with code 40 running rails. The smaller size looked right, it did not shine when the rails were cleaned, and, suitably painted, being square section instead of H section was not noticeable.

 

Unfortunately, I could not find any close up photos of the main lines, this was the best I could find.

 

 

Edited June 22, 2023 by Ian Morgan
re-loaded images

[acg5324]

I used T gauge rail for the 3rd and 4th rails on Olympia, soldered to track pins.

[grahame]

41 minutes ago, acg5324 said:

I used T gauge rail for the 3rd and 4th rails on Olympia, soldered to track pins.

 

Interesting. Where did you get it?

 

 

[acg5324]

12 minutes ago, grahame said:

 

Interesting. Where did you get it?

 

 

 

https://www.tgauge.com/product/326/10-lengths-code-40-steel-rail

 

they also do it in two,s.....it’s already chemically blackened.

Edited April 5, 2021 by acg5324

[Ian Morgan]

But code 40 is what FiNetrax and the 2mm Scale Association use, so it is not so good as third rail if you are using fiNetrax. OK with Peco Code 55ish or code 80 though.

 

 

[Ian Morgan]

The 2mm Scale Association sell code 30 for narrow gauge use, but it is plain rectangular profile.

 

 

[grahame]

I've not done any proper modelling, just a little fiddling about, for weeks now. I seem to have lost my modelling mojo and have been side-tracked by a rescue cat that I've adopted. Nonetheless, I did do a little photography yesterday for an article about structural height that I've written for the DEMU UPDate magazine and thought I share one of the pics. It's New London Bridge House which is a tall tower block, although the model is still just a foam board carcass with details yet to be added. But it does give an indication of what I mean by structural height:

 

[Gedward]

[Gedward]

[Gedward]

[Gedward]

[grahame]

Shame that Gedward hasn't included some supporting text about his buildings - such as how they were made, what they are made of, the prototypes they are based on and so on.

 

For example here is Fielden House (left) with Southwark Towers (right) towering above it. ST is currently just a foamboard carcass (except the entrance) and details are yet to be added. FH is made from card and styrene strip. Both ST and FH have been demolished in real life.

 

[Gedward]

8 hours ago, grahame said:

Shame that Gedward hasn't included some supporting text about his buildings - such as how they were made, what they are made of, the prototypes they are based on and so on.

 

Sorry, all details are explained on my layout page - Bovey Tor. I didn't want to clutter this thread with repeated descriptions.

[Gedward]

Station building. Based on Crowcombe Heathfield. Mainly embossed card painted with various water colours.

 

 

[Gedward]

Signal Box. Based on the Williton prototype. Mainly embossed card painted with water colours.

 

 

[Gedward]

WB office based on the Winchcombe prototype. Mainly embossed card painted with water colours.

 

 

[Gedward]

Coal office. Based on the Beamish prototype. Basswood with styrene strips and embossed card.

 

 

[Gedward]

Goods shed. Not sure where this prototype is exactly. Built from embossed card and styrene.

 

 

[Gedward]

Lineside hut. Basswood and styrene.

 

 

[grahame]

The plan for the tower blocks is to clad in a grey shiny sticky back plastic (fablon) hopefully to represent the glazing of the windows as on tower blocks they tend to reflect the sky and are difficult to see in. Then to add the floor and window frame details from styrene strip and paint the lower infill panels. Here I've covered one side and placed some strip to give an idea. However, I need to get sufficient strip and of a more appropriate size (for horizontals and verticals) and 'L' angle for the corners. And getting the fablon on smooth without bubbles is difficult - they seem to occur (bubble up) when the sun is on it:

 

 

Here's the building not long before demolition. I'm not sure whether to add the upright solid structure (lift shaft?) on the side (right). It wasn't there when the building was constructed and I'm not sure when it was added.

 

 

And here's a close up of the bottom side detail and lift shaft structure when the building was fenced off ready to tear it down: