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Scratch-built card and styrene structures (based on real buildings)


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I'm not quite sure what you're asking. The application of the top coat paint colours was directly on the grey primer so were the next stage. Afterwards a coat of matt varnish was applied to seal them, then a little weathering.

 

The order of colours is usually lightest to darkest but because the brickwork colour (the last dregs of desert yellow from an aerosol), was sprayed on the brick areas, it was applied first, then the white was painted by brush and finally the grey.

 

HTH

 

 

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Thanks Grahame, 

 

I was trying to work out if after the undercoat you had sprayed the whole building in the darker colour (ie the main brick colour) then over sprayed the lighter (mortar) colour which you then 'wiped' off again to leave it in the recesses whilst re-exposing the darker brick colour on the raised areas, before adding a few weathering washes..... or you'd sprayed it with the lighter colour and then picked out the individual bricks with the darker colour.

 

Your method of application definately looks effective.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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No, I don't paint the mortar courses separately. The entire wall is painted (usually by aerosol) in the brick colour and then dirtied down with weathering -  washes (to tone/moderate the base colour), powders (to add variation), and mainly a 6B pencil rubbed over by finger (to highlight the raised bricks).

 

Consequently the mortar is the brick colour. It's a bit of a cheat but somehow tricks the eye. I have tried mortar colour washes in the past but it is messy and I found it difficult to make look effective in this scale (N/2mm) and the embossed bricks aren't well defined sufficiently- often just a series of dots and dashes. See posts earlier in the thread for further details and close-up pics.

 

 

 

 

   

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After an extensive search, I've found it. Well, one, as I thought I had more. It's a Knightwing N gauge plastic kit of a Portakabin Pacemaker. IMO it's the best available in N/2mm as it is based on a real type and looks better than the RTP versions that can be picked up and that seem a little fanciful. The kits are pretty difficult to find and acquire, unless anyone knows better. 

 

The Portakabin Pacemaker was introduced in the mid 1960s and it is claimed to be the first portable building of its type. Its design has changed a little over the years and now there are many alternatives from competitors. But it suits my period well.

 

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The kit is simple with few parts and goes together nicely and quickly. I've made the body and roof separately so that they can be painted before adding the glazing.

 

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Apologies for the poor quality pic - handheld at just 1/10th.

 

 

 

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As I mentioned in the last post there's a small on-street electrical substation on the boundary of the gas holder station. And now the electrical (switching/control/whatever?) building I ordered from ebay has turned up in the post this morning. At just £4.99 including post and packing it was cheap enough to risk a look and seems to be just the ticket. It's 3D printed and already painted grey (it's the light grey structure in the pic below) and came with two light blue bars with what look like insulators on them (in foreground) but I'm not sure what they are far - they'll probably go in my scenics bits box. The darker grey transformer is something I already had - also 3D printed but from N Brass Loco.

 

The pencil marks show the various boundary fencing lines. Much of the area had a gravel surface, including along the front of the security gate house, with the fencing mounted on a small concrete plinth. I'll add those next as they'll provide edging for the gravel. 

 

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A football - that's a good idea!

 

I've added the concrete boundary plinths that the fencing sits on and some pads (for the transformer and portacabin feet) and painted them along with a bit of colour on the electric substation hut. I've also done a test laying of gravel - some fine granite ballast that I sprinkled on Roket card glue, and when dry gave it a coat of matt varnish to help further seal it.

 

Unfortunately I'm now out of Humbrol matt varnish aerosols and will have to wait until the end of lockdown when I can pop up the local model shop and get some new supplies. It's going to somewhat curtail my modelling as I tend to use a lot of it.

 

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My local model shop are open for mail order but are also offering a click and collect service (similar to car dealerships) where you can pre-order and pre-pay for an item and arrange a pick-up time for a minimal contact car park handover....might be worth asking if that's possible. It's similar to the way parcel delivery people are handing over items at the moment.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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Apparently the shops open on Wednesday 2nd and with the model shop less than 2 miles away I'll pop up there in the morning - I can probably wait until then. If there are any issues I'll place a postal  order (that Ian posted details of) - it'll save have to drive for miles to collect.

 

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Steeling myself to get in the mood to make the tiny gas appliances for the showroom, I've had a bash at the entrance gate posts this morning. I need some desert yellow to paint them (they've had a primer coat) so that's something else to add to the model shopping list for Wednesday. They were made from more parts than the electrical substation. I also need to get some small white beads (just a couple will suffice) to go on top of the posts as the fancy light spheres.

 

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A little work on some cookers. They're basically sections of square tube with styrene sheet backs and high level grills and the burner tops and oven fronts cut from the sheets that Andy printed and sent to me. They do need a little more work including tidying up and varnishing. In the days the scene is set, free standing cookers with high level grills were the norm, but just starting to be introduced and starting to get popular were 'slide-in' types, then came split level (separate ovens and hobs) and coloured appliances with green and brown the first options.

 

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And one fire, surround and hearth . . .  it doesn't look it but it was damn fiddly. I couldn't breath while putting it together for fear of blowing away the cut out tiny bits of paper.

 

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I'm gonna have a rest from fiddling with N/2mm scale gas appliances.

 

 

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The shop window fitters came this morning . . . 

 

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Now I need the window display staff to arrive and the roofers to put the roof back on. And probably need a step for the doorway.

 

 

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I've now got three fires (one in a surround, a LFE and and radiant type) and five cookers (three with high level grills and two 'slide-ins'). I need to set them on display so will need to make a few suitable props and also source some window banners/adverts ('fire sale' - that sort of thing). Also the background needs some showroom display furniture, boards with boxes on (to represent SWHs, multipoints and unit heaters), desks, cashiers stuff, etc.  Here are the appliances I've made so far just sitting (not glued) roughly in place inside. The windows and roof are also not glued in place yet:

 

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But all that can wait as, with the end of lockdown, I'm off out tomorrow morning to the model shop. And will take some time to think about the next project . . . . . 

 

 

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They're up . . . the gate posts, that is. They do need some 3mm diameter white balls/beads (as lights) to sit on the little plinths on top, but they can wait. Also some paving is down but kerbstones need adding. And I need to remake the little canopy over the security gate house door. It should protrude a lot further according to a photo I recently discovered. However, the scene is starting to come together:

 

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I've had a quick look for 3mm diameter balls. You can get 100 for just a couple of quid on ebay but they are made of PTFE which, being one of the slipperiest materials known to man, would be almost impossible to glue in place. There are also ones made of various other weird plastics and metals but they generally come from China.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, grahame said:

I've had a quick look for 3mm diameter balls. You can get 100 for just a couple of quid on ebay but they are made of PTFE which, being one of the slipperiest materials known to man, would be almost impossible to glue in place. There are also ones made of various other weird plastics and metals but they generally come from China.

 

 

Small ball bearings?...have you got an old kitchen draw runner?

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Thanks.

 

I had considered them, as well as ball bearings. I was surprised how many different types of 3mm spheres/balls are available cheaply just on eBay - ones to repair bike bearings, polypropylene ones, neodymium magnets ones, various carbon steel, stainless, foam, rock, PTFE, acrylic, ones for nose studs, gem/jewelery, etc., 

 

I don't think I'll have a problem getting something suitable. Just a matter of what'll do with the other 98 . . . .

 

;-)

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