Jump to content
 

Minerva GWR Pannier Tank - open for advanced orders


81A Oldoak
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi Chris,

 

Very nice! Can you talk us through your weathering process as the engine looks nicely 'care worn', subtle.

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

I split the work into two phases: the chassis and the superstructure. Before I start work I search for a colour photograph of the prototype in the condition that I'm trying to reproduce.

 

The chassis. I use Humbrol matt enamel paints to create a darkish brown (M173 Track colour and M33 Black), sometimes with patches of a lighter almost khaki tone; keep looking at the photo.  I do not thin the paint and I stipple it as I apply it to the chassis side frames and wheels. This allows a little caking relief to be formed. Talcum powder can be misxed with the paint for even more relief.  The brake shoes are dabbed with a blend of Humbrol Brick Red and the old Airfix Brick Red Matt 1 (I still have three tins from a box that I found in a back-street toy shop when I was stationed in Gibraltar from 1981-83). The sides of the ashpan are painted with a more vivid blend of Airfix brick red and orange. I usually give the wheels a very gentle dry brush and buff-up with Humbrol Metalcote Gunmetal. Oil leaks and stains are satin black. When all is set, I very gently dry brush some of the raised relief with Humbrol Mid-Stone (M34).

 

For the superstructure, I like to polish with T-Cut the areas of the loco that are most likely to receive the cleaners' attention. NB there is little point doing this if you intend to apply very heavy weathering as seen on most Panniers towards the end  of their lives. I then touch each rivet with diluted Humbrol matt dark grey (M32) using a small brush with a very fine point and then remove the surplus with the corner of a tissue or cotton bud. The next step is to spray gently with an airbrush to apply an overall coating of grime. I use Vallejo Model Air acrylic paints that can be used straight from the bottle without the need for thinning, though thinning is possible. The colour blend was Black Smoke and Dark Earth. I wanted to do just enough to subdue the brightness of the BR crest. I apply a heavier coat on the top of the tanks, boiler and cab. The spectacles were coated with a rubber masking compound leaving the edges and corners uncovered. After spraying, I removed the masking and softened the edges of the dirt by gently working with a cotton bud. A simple thinned wash of matt black paint suffices for the buffer beams. The water stains on the tanks are heavily thinned Humbrol matt white. Other vertical stains on the tanks are gently dry-brushed with a dark brown; keep looking at that photo. The footplate valence and steps were gently dry-brushed with Mid-Stone and a dash of Track Colour. Work slowly and patiently to build up the effect. Small amounts of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel were dabbed onto the footplate steps and cab handrails and buffed-up when set. Finally, I judiciously apply weathering powders - I use MIG - to finish off the loco.

 

I've not been too specific about the colours. Use a photograph of the real thing and try to paint what you see, not what you imagine. Generally, I find it easier to finish locos in the filthiest condition. The most difficult finish to represent is the sheen of an engine that is in every day use, but clearly cared for. I have tried to reproduce this with the Ixion Fowler diesel, Minerva Kerr Stuart Victory and the Minerva Pecketts. The Ixion Hudswell Clarke and 56XX show much heavier weathering. A final NB, an airbrush is not essential. The Fowler diesel, Hudswell Clarke and green Peckett were not weathered with an airbrush.

 

I hope this helps. I am always nervous when I start to weather an 0 gauge loco and have to fall back on the Old Testament prophets' advice to gird up the loins, strengthen the sinews and have faith in one's ability.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

post-13142-0-78643800-1507371204_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-01844700-1507371207_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-12981700-1507371340_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-06643300-1507371379_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-73626500-1507371723_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-04526000-1507371726_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-10582300-1507371856_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-04795700-1507371914_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-49125200-1507371972_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a good review of the Minerva Pannier in November's BRM.

Hi,

 

A little late for me! I had one of the first. Review:-EXCELLENT 5 STARS!

 

Many magazines seem to only review locos weeks or months after the model has been released and in this day and age of specific batch runs, if one hesitates, it's a 'snooze and you loose' kinda thing that then ensues...

I split the work into two phases: the chassis and the superstructure. Before I start work I search for a colour photograph of the prototype in the condition that I'm trying to reproduce.

 

The chassis. I use Humbrol matt enamel paints to create a darkish brown (M173 Track colour and M33 Black), sometimes with patches of a lighter almost khaki tone; keep looking at the photo. I do not thin the paint and I stipple it as I apply it to the chassis side frames and wheels. This allows a little caking relief to be formed. Talcum powder can be misxed with the paint for even more relief. The brake shoes are dabbed with a blend of Humbrol Brick Red and the old Airfix Brick Red Matt 1 (I still have three tins from a box that I found in a back-street toy shop when I was stationed in Gibraltar from 1981-83). The sides of the ashpan are painted with a more vivid blend of Airfix brick red and orange. I usually give the wheels a very gentle dry brush and buff-up with Humbrol Metalcote Gunmetal. Oil leaks and stains are satin black. When all is set, I very gently dry brush some of the raised relief with Humbrol Mid-Stone (M34).

 

For the superstructure, I like to polish with T-Cut the areas of the loco that are most likely to receive the cleaners' attention. NB there is little point doing this if you intend to apply very heavy weathering as seen on most Panniers towards the end of their lives. I then touch each rivet with diluted Humbrol matt dark grey (M32) using a small brush with a very fine point and then remove the surplus with the corner of a tissue or cotton bud. The next step is to spray gently with an airbrush to apply an overall coating of grime. I use Vallejo Model Air acrylic paints that can be used straight from the bottle without the need for thinning, though thinning is possible. The colour blend was Black Smoke and Dark Earth. I wanted to do just enough to subdue the brightness of the BR crest. I apply a heavier coat on the top of the tanks, boiler and cab. The spectacles were coated with a rubber masking compound leaving the edges and corners uncovered. After spraying, I removed the masking and softened the edges of the dirt by gently working with a cotton bud. A simple thinned wash of matt black paint suffices for the buffer beams. The water stains on the tanks are heavily thinned Humbrol matt white. Other vertical stains on the tanks are gently dry-brushed with a dark brown; keep looking at that photo. The footplate valence and steps were gently dry-brushed with Mid-Stone and a dash of Track Colour. Work slowly and patiently to build up the effect. Small amounts of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel were dabbed onto the footplate steps and cab handrails and buffed-up when set. Finally, I judiciously apply weathering powders - I use MIG - to finish off the loco.

 

I've not been too specific about the colours. Use a photograph of the real thing and try to paint what you see, not what you imagine. Generally, I find it easier to finish locos in the filthiest condition. The most difficult finish to represent is the sheen of an engine that is in every day use, but clearly cared for. I have tried to reproduce this with the Ixion Fowler diesel, Minerva Kerr Stuart Victory and the Minerva Pecketts. The Ixion Hudswell Clarke and 56XX show much heavier weathering. A final NB, an airbrush is not essential. The Fowler diesel, Hudswell Clarke and green Peckett were not weathered with an airbrush.

 

I hope this helps. I am always nervous when I start to weather an 0 gauge loco and have to fall back on the Old Testament prophets' advice to gird up the loins, strengthen the sinews and have faith in one's ability.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks so much for the detailed break-down, it's greatly appreciated by me as your locos look cracking! Your layout too-without wishing to sound sychopantic, Ive always been a fan of your work.

 

As you know Ive been weathering models for 40 plus years and like you weathering most models comes with a certain amount of 'anticipation'-I very often have to convince myself 'that theyre only bits of plastic and metal'.

 

I have been, over the past year, experimenting with acylics and they are a pleasent medium to work with, yet I much prefer working with enamels (I can work/re-work them and I know what they do, acrylics can dry very quickly, too quickly and all often too permanently). Using chemicals for many years was affecting my health and washes of enamels too were not helping as well as not being good for domestic concord. However, Ive lost my weathering mojo a bit and using acrylics has become a little frustrating (although a three Humbrol colours, a few of Lifecolor [sic] and some Games-workshop colours work very well). I have sourced an odour free enamel thinners, which is healthier and keeps SWMBO happy too, but it's jolly expensive.

 

I do still use enamels, yet its 80/20 in favour of acrylics at the mo, however I might just splash the cash on odour free thinner so that I can splash more enamels again! Ha ha!

 

Im awaiting a new book on the ex M&SWJR.....before ordering my NP plates for the Pannier....then its fit a decoder and weather...super!

 

BTW.....the bunker on my Pannier is hollow, is it best to block off with a piece of plastikard then add some coal? Im tempted to RC the loco though and the bunker would be a useful space for RC gubbings!

 

Kindest regards with thanks again,

 

M.

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

A little late for me! I had one of the first. Review:-EXCELLENT 5 STARS!

 

Many magazines seem to only review locos weeks or months after the model has been released and in this day and age of specific batch runs, if one hesitates, it's a 'snooze and you loose' kinda thing that then ensues... Hi Chris,

 

Thanks so much for the detailed break-down, it's greatly appreciated by me as your locos look cracking! Your layout too-without wishing to sound sychopantic, Ive always been a fan of your work.

 

As you know Ive been weathering models for 40 plus years and like you weathering most models comes with a certain amount of 'anticipation'-I very often have to convince myself 'that theyre only bits of plastic and metal'.

 

I have been, over the past year, experimenting with acylics and they are a pleasent medium to work with, yet I much prefer working with enamels (I can work/re-work them and I know what they do, acrylics can dry very quickly, too quickly and all often too permanently). Using chemicals for many years was affecting my health and washes of enamels too were not helping as well as not being good for domestic concord. However, Ive lost my weathering mojo a bit and using acrylics has become a little frustrating (although a three Humbrol colours, a few of Lifecolor [sic] and some Games-workshop colours work very well). I have sourced an odour free enamel thinners, which is healthier and keeps SWMBO happy too, but it's jolly expensive.

 

I do still use enamels, yet its 80/20 in favour of acrylics at the mo, however I might just splash the cash on odour free thinner so that I can splash more enamels again! Ha ha!

 

Im awaiting a new book on the ex M&SWJR.....before ordering my NP plates for the Pannier....then its fit a decoder and weather...super!

 

BTW.....the bunker on my Pannier is hollow, is it best to block off with a piece of plastikard then add some coal? Im tempted to RC the loco though and the bunker would be a useful space for RC gubbings!

 

Kindest regards with thanks again,

 

M.

I blocked off the bunker with an off-cut of black plasticard and then some DAS clay on top to provide a little relief. I am considering fitting  either an 8750 or 57XX with Tam Valley Depot RC equipment and the bunker seems a good place to stow some of the kit.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I blocked off the bunker with an off-cut of black plasticard and then some DAS clay on top to provide a little relief. I am considering fitting  either an 8750 or 57XX with Tam Valley Depot RC equipment and the bunker seems a good place to stow some of the kit.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks.

 

When I saw the bunker I was reminded of your comments re wishes for RC.

 

I have not - not that I am aware of  - heard of Tam Valley Depot RC....I will try and look them up.

 

I am impressed with all the Deltang stuff, yet I dont like the idea of wiring up Li Ion or Li Po batteries - ie accidental short circuits, I would much rather have wires with plugs on, to plug and play that aspect of RC...

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
Link to post
Share on other sites

Shunting at Cwm Bach is paused while 3753's crew takes a lunch break. Meanwhile, the district superintendent of operations has slipped over to Tonfanau Camp to supervise the installation of a new security fence.

 

 

She's looking nice Chris very work worn but loved!!!

 

Talyllyn has just had a motive power boost which needs numbering and finishing, etc. 

The Shed Foreman at Merthyr shed has the lads full pelt in getting them ready!!!!

Some pictures will be forthcoming I'm sure in due course.

 

Jinty ;)

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Although not finished by a long way yet, here are two of the latest additions to Talyllyn Junction.

 

4679 and 8791, a top feed and a non top feed example, just for some variety.

Here are the three rascals together

 

post-14906-0-70721600-1508686752_thumb.jpg

 

They are all outstanding models, that run smoothly straight out of the box, but will still be run in on DC before adding DCC Sound.

Pictures of the real thing around the 1960's have been sought so that I can add the correct details to them.

Then it'll be a weathering process for both of them.

 

 

Jinty ;)

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, but why is Quasimodo driving it..?? 

 

Hat, coat - gone already....  :mosking:

 

Edit; As penance, I'd better submit a couple of shots of my Minerva Pannier, done as 3675, also a Forest of Dean workhorse, that was active right up to the last day of WR steam, 31/12/1965. You can all have a good laugh at my weathering. Oh, & I haven't got a Crew yet!!

 

In it's last months of service, 3675 appears to have lost it's smokebox & driver's side numberplates. The Fireman's side numberplate was so grimy it was chalked over to highlight the number. A superb photo of the fireman actually doing this as the loco passed through Soudley graces the front cover of that wonderful Neil Parkhouse book; Vol 2, Forest of Dean Lines...

 

post-704-0-96006900-1509310637_thumb.jpg

 

post-704-0-79075900-1509310674_thumb.jpg

Edited by F-UnitMad
  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, but why is Quasimodo driving it..??

 

Hat, coat - gone already.... :mosking:

 

Edit; As penance, I'd better submit a couple of shots of my Minerva Pannier, done as 3675, also a Forest of Dean workhorse, that was active right up hto the last day of WR steam, 31/12/1965. You can all have a good laugh at my weathering. Oh, & I haven't got a Crew yet!!

 

In it's last months of service, 3675 appears to have lost it's smokebox & driver's side numberplates. The Fireman's side numberplate was so grimy it was chalked over to highlight the number. A superb photo of the fireman actually doing this as the loco passed through Soudley graces the front cover of that wonderful Neil Parkhouse book; Vol 2, Forest of Dean Lines...

 

attachicon.gif3675A.jpg

 

attachicon.gif3675B.jpg

The Bells, The Bells, The Bells! You shouldnt be so unkind, you might get the rozzers round your gaff for internet hate crimes! LMAO! I think that figure is an SD fireman, w/o his shovel?? Nice work on your loco too BTW! Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Interesting that all the ones I’ve seen so far are BR. Definite shift over the last 10 years or so away from, say, GWR.

 

In 30 years will we be discussing which is the best of the Bachpolhornjan or Minerva class 66?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting that all the ones I’ve seen so far are BR. Definite shift over the last 10 years or so away from, say, GWR.

 

In 30 years will we be discussing which is the best of the Bachpolhornjan or Minerva class 66?

Actually, the green GREAT WESTERN has been a very good seller. All of the advanced air-freight batch sold out within 10 days of landing in August and we had a backlog of orders waiting for the bigger sea-freight consignment. The backlog has now been cleared.

 

Regards,

 

CK

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I think it's interesting that most of the BR ones posted here depict them right at the end of their lives.

Mine will be 4666 c1964 so it looks like I'm joining the trend. Just need to source some good close up photos to get the detailing right. I do have a few shots already but they are either distant or a bit too blurry to see clearly what's going on.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Actually, the green GREAT WESTERN has been a very good seller. All of the advanced air-freight batch sold out within 10 days of landing in August and we had a backlog of orders waiting for the bigger sea-freight consignment. The backlog has now been cleared.

 

Regards,

 

CK

Hi Chris,

Are the riveted 5700 versions still on target for January? I’m hoping you might have a stand at the Bristol show?

 

Rich

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris,

Are the riveted 5700 versions still on target for January? I’m hoping you might have a stand at the Bristol show?

 

Rich

Rich,

Chris Basten should be booked in for the show and we aim to have the riveted 57XXs by then.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...