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Jinty's WB for 7mm


Jintyman
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  • 2 weeks later...
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Jinty,

 

I've seen a few photos around of the 14xx you did for the West Kirby branch. Can I ask is that still the Dapol green? Seems quite rich and less "plastic" than BR green can often appear so wondered what you did to it please?

 

Your battered autocoach is marvellous and is tempting me to do a conversion to a 70 footer. Not really appropriate for my late 50s era but these older ones do look particularly good weathered.

 

Thanks

Ian

 

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On 07/06/2020 at 10:26, Hal Nail said:

Jinty,

 

I've seen a few photos around of the 14xx you did for the West Kirby branch. Can I ask is that still the Dapol green? Seems quite rich and less "plastic" than BR green can often appear so wondered what you did to it please?

 

Your battered autocoach is marvellous and is tempting me to do a conversion to a 70 footer. Not really appropriate for my late 50s era but these older ones do look particularly good weathered.

 

Thanks

Ian

 

 

Hi Ian,

 

I washed the paintwork all over with an AK Interactive enamel wash, let dry overnight and then removed 95% of it with white spirit and a cotton bud.

Yes it is the Dapol factory finish.

Most of the manufacturers factory finishes become dull with the washes and the white spirit.

 

Regards

Jinty <_<

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36 minutes ago, Jintyman said:

 

Hi Ian,

 

I washed the paintwork all over with an AK Interactive enamel wash, let dry overnight and then removed 95% of it with white spirit and a cotton bud.

Yes it is the Dapol factory finish.

Most of the manufacturers factory finishes become dull with the washes and the white spirit.

 

Regards

Jinty <_<

Many thanks. I often flatten the finish with super fine wet and dry first but yes, a wash and then removal does get that dull metal sheen usually.

 

Good to confirm as havent managed to see these in the flesh and dont generally like to buy blind.

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4 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Many thanks. I often flatten the finish with super fine wet and dry first but yes, a wash and then removal does get that dull metal sheen usually.

 

Good to confirm as havent managed to see these in the flesh and dont generally like to buy blind.

 

Sorry Ian,

 

I should of read through fully. On Rod's 14xx after the dulling with the removal of the wash, I then used some Mer (car polish) to bring a more satin sheen to the tank sides and parts of the boiler as they were too dull in my mind for a supposedly preserved loco.

 

Hope that helps

Jinty ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi David, I was just perusing this thread and being most impressed with your results.  Have you documented your methods somewhere?  I did go through several pages from the beginning and didn't see anything.

 

I was looking at the pillbox brake and thinking, how does he do those rust spots?  I have rust powder but I suspect your method may be more involved.  I have that very van which looks pretty good to my eyes and I thought I'd have a go at rusty areas.

 

When you say "washes", are these enamel?  I've tried that and find that enamel thinners can attack even acrylic paint.

 

Thanks for all the wonderful locos and rolling stock.

 

John

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26 minutes ago, brossard said:

Hi David, I was just perusing this thread and being most impressed with your results.  Have you documented your methods somewhere?  I did go through several pages from the beginning and didn't see anything.

 

I was looking at the pillbox brake and thinking, how does he do those rust spots?  I have rust powder but I suspect your method may be more involved.  I have that very van which looks pretty good to my eyes and I thought I'd have a go at rusty areas.

 

When you say "washes", are these enamel?  I've tried that and find that enamel thinners can attack even acrylic paint.

 

Thanks for all the wonderful locos and rolling stock.

 

John

 

 

Hi John,

 

Once painted and transfers sealed, I use numerous AK Interactive and Ammo MIG products to bring definition to the various parts.

I'm not an Acrylics man, never have been and never will, too long in the tooth to change my ways. I paint with both enamel and celly paints and use a celly anti bloom thinners right across the board.

As above I use an AK enamel wash all over the body, leaving it to dry for various lengths of time, sometimes even a week. This is then removed with cotton buds dipped in white spirit and gently removing 90% of what was put on, leaving the build up in the corners, etc. once this is done, I then use panel liners and filters until I get what I'm trying to achieve (It doesn't always go to plan).

Once the treatments are done with, I use either Pinnacle or AK powders dabbed with a small brush in the areas where I'd like rusty elements to show. Don't worry if you put too much on, the next stage can usually put that right.

The next stage is a self mixed enamel frame dirt, again with celly thinners through the airbrush, this reduces the amount of rust powder showing by blowing some of it away, or simply partially covering it. After the frame dirt comes matt black, again enamel or celly to dust the roof and pick out the darker areas (Airbrush accounts for around 10% of the whole process).

 

Once this is done, I then visit with more powders (sometimes whilst it is still tacky) to define the tred areas, and then with other AK products such as grease stains, fuel/oil stains where it would be required and if splashed water, etc is to be replicated, AK do a product called 'Wet Effects Fluid' which is really good and leaves a nice sheen to the areas it is applied.

 

I'm sure I've missed something, but that is about as detailed as I can make it.

White spirit has a nice effect of dulling both Dapol and Heljan paintwork, a happy side effect for weathering.

 

I tend to purchase all the products above from here: https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/

No attachment, just a happy customer.

 

Regards all

Jinty ;)

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Thank you so much for taking the time to describe your process. 

 

I think I spotted the major point when using enamel washes.  Use the spirit (turpentine here) to remove the excess.  I'm thinking turps is less aggressive than enamel thinners.  The other thing of note is the time allowed for the wash to cure.

 

I don't have the powders you describe but I do have a pretty good selection from other sources.

 

No doubt others will benefit from this.  I'll have a bash.

 

John

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11 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Marvellous stuff as usual. What have you chopped/cut on those vans?

 

Well chopped was probably a bit of an exaggeration in the literal form. I cut and fitted the end plating on the Dutch one, and I cut, bent and soldered the extra pipework on the Black/Yellow van.

It was just a flippant term to 'chop' them around into something different to what they were. Probably harking back a little to the motor trade which I've been in for a long time.

 

Jinty ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Gronks are out in force lately.

Here is an EWS version, numbered as 08630 and wipers by Giles fitted front and back, Horn by DJ Parkins fitted instead of the whistle and more chunky vacuum pipes fitted rather than the anemic Dapol ones. Fitted with a ZIMO MX644D decoder with a Paul Chetter Activedrive sound project with both active braking, speed lock and correct lighting for this later version. Through one of my own bass reflex 3w speakers and a large capacity Gold Cap Stay Alive.

Weathered as a slightly faded 'In service' loco. 

 

 

 

 

JWB390.jpg.55307e563f198d243a5cb7c494a83200.jpg

 

 

JWB391.jpg.0e06d1b9590aefb7b99ac696b98567f8.jpg

 

 

JWB393.jpg.bc2e8238120f0a1f3e7b36d21db398f3.jpg

 

 

JWB394.jpg.011106f8edfc4ff5d6768ad162d3b614.jpg

 

 

 

More soon

Jinty;)

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8 minutes ago, railwayrod said:

Hi David. That Gronk looks so real are you sure it is a model and not a superimposed prototype picture on you photo plank background, lol. As usual fantastic work.

 

Rod 

I can only echo your feelings Rod ......no adjectives would do the man justice ......I just ask myself where in North Wales has Jintyman found an 'real'  EWS Gronk to take a picture of.....:sorry:

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit of a change.

Heljan Class 128 DPU in BR Blue, number M55995 as she was in the early 80's with headcode boxes removed and marker lights put in place, Corridor connections lasted with the marker lights till 1980, and then were plated over.
This one is sound fitted with a ZIMO MX644D, a large bass reflex speaker and a decent Gold Cap stay alive.
She has been weathered as an 'in-service' unit.

 

 

JWB404.jpg.c383953fcd36c6fa989ea02cec21df0c.jpg

 

 

JWB407.jpg.fa18438771f5f2a556e3dac4c1cca47a.jpg

 

 

 

 

And the other EWS 08 that I've just finished. Same spec as the one above, just a bit more fading of the bodyside and lettering.

Here she is then, 08389.

 

 

 

JWB409.jpg.b1d13a95f4e326c61fb7451b6f641550.jpg

 

 

 

Jinty ;)

 

 

JWB411.jpg.e4b3f0b047cb8ad01192d3c14db4dd0d.jpg

 

 

JWB414.jpg.f6320dd652f7a531bffbc7f705b2f5c4.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here we have Heljan class 33, as pre-TOPS 6529 in BR Banger Blue.
Fitted with a Zimo MX696KS sound decoder and loaded with a Paul Chetter sound project with Active Braking and Speed Lock. This is all through two 3w 4ohm speakers wired in series and a Gold Cap stay alive.
Railtec custom numbering and weathered as a pretty dirty 'in service' loco.

 

 

JWB416.jpg.f9f6dbd90ef7d262f6af05868b57c2b3.jpg

 

 

JWB417.jpg.0ded92676cc0a908cca0260cacd77bde.jpg

 

 

JWB418.jpg.18263bfdb3b5caed3069d6e7f1653708.jpg

 

 

JWB419.jpg.cb9bee3771cc5725cdba32d8cdf0c626.jpg

 

 

 

Regards all

Jinty ;)

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6 hours ago, gismorail said:

To use an Andy P sayin #wowser# thats a beauty David it just gets better well done .....:clapping:

I hope you notice, I've just given you a dose of the CLAP Martin.:sarcastic:

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